Kavik

I am one of those people trying to get a good tug on my dog :D I have been training using a thrown toy and food. Which in general has worked well, but I have had a few issues with Kaos running off in trials. Tug is about engaging with the handler in play, and tug is a relationship game, so I'm hoping that fixing our tug game will help our relationship, and engaging with me with help in agility. Certainly there are aspects of our current tug game which show gaps in our relationship which need fixing - his possession of the tug and not bringing it back straight away (tends to play keep away - main things we are fixing atm) = not wanting to engage with me, not wanting to play in all environments/in the presence of other reinforcers/distractions (don't wanna, don't hafta, and choosing to leave training). ETA: Also, tug would allow me to have a toy/play reward at the end of a run in trials. You can't throw a toy at the end of a run in an agility trial (though I can at training), and at the moment I give a food reward then go find somewhere to throw the toy, but this results in a time delay in rewarding which is not ideal.

I get confused when I train for multiple sports

I think to do it properly (so they won't take something on the ground vs something like not taking something offered by a person or turning their head away if a bowl is waved in their face) would be very difficult and would require a lot of aversives as dogs are opportunistic scavengers.

Can't find a decent looking Kelpie either

Sending healing vibes for Mindy

I personally don't see the benefit of teaching food refusal. Do you mean for competition or real life? (as in dog on't take food thrown over fence/offered by another person)

For boarding and training, if you decide they are right for you, I suggest research, research, research! My parents had a bad experience with one - they didn't ask for my recommendation of a place and went with a place I would have avoided. I went with them to pick up the dog and watched the demonstration of what they had taught the dog and besides the dog not doing what they had apparently taught it, it was obvious that they had used very physical methods on the dog, as the way the dog hit the deck when they raised their hand (apparently their down signal ) it was apparent they had hit him as well.

Actually it will/should affect you. Rings set for 600 will include larger spaces than what you will see on an all heights course. This needs to be trained too...not always as easy as you might think. The person I talked to said that the spacing for the bigger dogs remains unchanged? But if not, you are right, something that will need to be trained. It will be tricky at clubs with not many small or not many large dogs (sometimes I am the only 600).

Great work!

Separate heights trials where this would occur are like the Festival of Agility where the heights are run in different rings, so each height is actually running a different course (not the same course with the height of jumps adjusted). Theoretically this allows the judges to create challenges appropriate to the heights as one course does not provide the same challenges for big and small dogs. Ie obstacle descriminations, off course obstacles, tight courses.

At training the other day I was talking to someone who runs small dogs and she said that with the new rule change the minimum distance between obstacles is now smaller for the smaller dogs at separate heights competitions (2m for 200 dogs 3m for 300 dogs) and that the courses being set were testing that to the limit, she thought a bit too tight. What do people think of this? Since I run a 600 dog it won't affect me.

Well done!

Good luck!

I've only got Click to Calm, but from what I've read on here, sounds pretty similar to Control Unleashed

Well, I think that falls under the heading of "improper use". If I can get a dog that hates his head being restrained to come running for his eye drops every 3 hours, I think most dogs can be taught to like a head collar. Really? I can think of a way a head collar might work without discomfort strong enough to change behaviour. I don't think it's a forgone conclusion that they work because they create discomfort. Not saying that doesn't ever factor into it. Loop tightens around muzzle when lead pulled, closing dog's mouth and pulling their head. I would think that would be uncomfortable, don't you?

krustie Many dogs find the headcollar aversive just sitting on their face loose (many try to scratch it off), certainly it creates discomfort when it is tightened, otherwise it wouldn't work ;) just like any other control tool so they go back to the position where it is more comfortable. There is also the possibility of the head being turned to the side when they pull, especially if they lunge.

I'll go out on a limb and guess Koehler? The way I plan to train a competition heel with the next dog I attempt competition obedience with is going to take a lot longer than 10 minutes , but I want happy enthusiastic focus and good body awareness.

In ANKC: * weaves - Once dog gets entry, if it pops out you get a fault and are not supposed to reattempt or put them back in, but continue on. If you reattempt or put them back in you are disqualified * dog can wear flat collar (no tags) or no collar * no rewards to be taken into the ring * contact obstacles are different sizes to ADAA * jump heights are different

Nobody said to use one to fix fear aggression and if you read my posts on the matter I have used treats and a clicker on my fear aggressive dog. However when I walk dogs whose combined weight is equal to or greater than my own, or walking with my kids or the pram, I like to know that I can have control if the unexpected happens, if they lunge unexpectedly, we encounter another dog coming around a corner suddenly etc. What collar that is is dependent on the dog. I am certainly not suggesting everyone use them. But to say that people who use them are abusing their dogs like people who hit their dogs is not true and rather extreme.

MRB - you know you can have your dog on a check chain or prong collar and also use treats? Also do LAT? The check chain and pinch collar are only pieces of equipment.

IGs (Italian Greyhounds) have a reputation for breaking legs, from what I have heard it is good to research lines and breeders to minimise the problem. But Whippets and Greyhounds are bigger dogs and I have not heard of structural problems with them.

The one of mine with worn teeth is from chewing himself due to allergies - hair is abrasive

A Greyhound does sound like a good suggestion. Apart from the alert barking they fit all your other criteria. They are large, don't need a huge amount of exercise, are quiet in the house, and most that have had previous training are already pretty good on lead. You can get ones that are tested with cats. If you get a black one it may deter people on its size and colour (people are more scared of dark coloured dogs).

MRB I don't know of any training method that advocates hitting the dog, that is abuse not training.

If the Schutzhund clubs had the sense to help the sport growing, they would encourage owners of all the Schutzhund breeds offering wide range of activities to help people, but many dont unless you dedicated on the sport is why the clubs here having 10 members instead of 100. I speak to couple of people who the club tell there dog is no good for the sport to join obedience club is happening, is no wonder the Schutzhund is not growing here? Joe I only went a couple of times but found the club very helpful even though my dog would not be able to compete (non papered GSD, also not enough drive).