Kavik

Toys ETT Papillon IG Terrier MAnchester Terrier JRT/PRT Border Terrier Gundogs GSP Vizsla Brittany Hound Whippet Basenji Finnish Spitz Working Kelpie Belgian Shepherd (fav is Malinois but like them all) GSD (Dutch Shepherd close) Utility Dobermann Boxer German Pinscher (Rottweiler close) Non Sporting Schipperke German Spitz Shiba Inu

I agree with Trisven, general consensus is male/female combination get on best. I would have at least a 2 yr gap. I have 12yr female, 8yr male, 5 1/2 yr male. My female gets on with males better, my males don't mind either way.

The pet demo at Sea World was awesome last time I saw it impressive stuff with cats and rats too and neat tricks with the dogs.

Kaos * To be able to tug out of the yard (maybe even at training/trials!) * To improve our contact performance * To have good focus and have him not run out of the ring *JDX title *GD title * a couple of ADX passes *JDO pass *ADO pass

I would start at home first. When they are really worked up or stressed they won't take treats, so best to build up the default behaviour first at home where there are no distractions. Will she take treats for training at home?

He brought the tug back What he has been doing is just standing there holding the tug, not looking at me. I have been waiting him out, just sitting down, so that it is not fun when he is just holding it, and having a party and a big game when he brings it back (verbal 'good' when he looks at me and takes a step towards me, verbal 'yes' and game when he gets to me). Slowly he has been getting the idea, would take a step then stop then a step then stop etc. This morning he brought it back in pretty much one go! Not yet punching me in the stomach with it saying 'play with me! ' but a good start!

I'd forgotten about Beethoven! That was hillarious

Yep me too just talking with my parents who are helping to pay

K-9 Turner and Hooch Where the Red Fern Grows

How are the two dogs together? There is quite a size difference between a Boxer and a Maltese X and the Boxers I've met like to play pretty rough. As to being outside - the important thing is that they have access to shelter and water especially coming up to summer - somewhere they can get out of the heat. I think Boxers only have a single coat? so not as much protection from the elements.

The Shepherd Scream! Yes that is fun Shepherds can be vocal at times I have found. Not noisy like barking like my Kelpies but more if separated from us/one person leaves. If possible ignore it and only give attention if quiet.

http://www.brilliantrecalls.com/sp/7307-recallers-3

TBH I don't do much shaping for agility anymore RS. I just lured her every day for a few days & then she started offering it by herself. Why don't you do much shaping anymore?

600mm - not sure if any of the USA spacings are the same as this?

After shaping Zoe to tug with a clicker I got her to tug today without using a clicker or food at all! This will be an interesting experiement to see how far we can get with it. Obviously she is not tugging as keenly as Kaos and it has been taught quite differently (she is 12 yrs old! and never taught to tug before) but she is actively reaching to get it without me having to move it much and pulling back on the tug enthusiastically, still drops it when I let go, but will sometimes bring it closer or to me (I have a reasonable shaped retrieve with her on various objects).

True, I like the video for showing me how to be more fun (and have more fun) while playing tug, as I can tend to get self conscious about it. And the 'Mine, mine!' keeping it away helps when he decides to drop it or lose interest.

I'm sure you won't ruin him, he is very pretty :D It is not essential that they play with toys, but it is very helpful. You can just use food if that is what your dog likes. At the moment mine loves a thrown toy, but will only tug reliably in the yard. I am working on building up his tugging around distractions in the yard (and getting him to bring it back more willingly ) before taking it on the road. At training and trials I have been using food and a thrown toy so far. Here are some suggestions on how to get your dog interested in toys: http://www.clickerdogs.com/createamotivatingtoy.htm You can also fill some tug toys with food to start with (Clean Run has some), good to choose exciting toys to start with (furry ones are often a hit), or you could shape a tug with a clicker (for fun I am trying this with one of my older dogs, not sure how this works in the long run though for using it as a reward)

Hi, I am thinking of signing up to Recallers 3 as well, will be the first time for me too As for DVDs these are ones I have found helpful: Susan Garrett's Success With One Jump Susan Garrett's 2x2 weave training (if that is the method you want to use) If you want to stay with her handling system, Greg Derrett's series of DVDs explains the handling. I have only seen the foundation one so far, hope to borrow the rest soon. If you are doing Recallers and want to do Crate Games (which I have been told is expected as part of the course, as is Its Yer Choice, I haven't done either of them yet), the Crate Games DVD would be helpful too.

I agree with megan * motivation especially tug if your dog likes toys (that would be my main focus until I have the dog tugging everywhere regardless of what is going on. Said because it is what my current dog won't do yet lol) * recalls - restrained recalls are fun! * shaping * rear end awareness - perchwork, walking througth a ladder, walking backwards * shadow handling * send to toy * nose touch hand, nose touch target, possibly paw touch target too In terms of equipment, I would only do a few * wobble board * tunnel * maybe jumps with bar on ground Have a think about what ontact performance you want to train and how you want to train your weaves. Some of the early contact behaviours such as touching a target can be done early.

PAX We'll get you into agility yet Prix would certainly give us other 600 dogs a run for our money!

Where I was working before, the graduate Vets were starting on about $40k or so and I believe the senior vets were earning less than $60k. Obviously better than nurses wages but the hours are much longer and obviously stressful. I have been asked many times why I don't study to be a vet, which I found quite interesting and a bit frustrating - they assume because you like animals that you would want to be a vet. Being a nurse is a completely different job, and I know that I am not up for (or interested in) being a vet.

Similarly to Casima, The only time in a trial I will bring the dog back is if the dog misses the last jump or homerun as a shortcut (has happened before ) In training, if it is something like a serpentine or threadle, I will redo the handling for the whole thing

I've felt faint as a vet nurse too at the beginning however the vet was understanding and said it happens to a lot of people. Only happened once.

I like PuddleDuck's idea something I may look into as well.

You may not get much more than that EVER unless you are in a specialist centre/emergency/overnight or become a manager or full time receptionist (they are under a different award)