Kavik

What about ticks? I was using Advantage but when I moved to a high tick area I changed to Frontline because it is supposed to help with ticks. I know everyone is saying that Frontline doesn't work anymore. Is there a better topspot that also helps with tick control?

Bronchishield or something? Yeah that is one of the vaccines for KC - parainfluenza and bordatella Parvo, distemper and hepatitis = C3 C3 + KC = C5

The kennel cough one that they gave separate boosts it to a C5. As a C5 is a C3 + KC, can be given as single vaccine or KC separate.

And this is what we love about them ;)

This is where people using the Alpha roll get it wrong. If you watch dogs or wolves interacting, you can see that it is actually the submissive dog that rolls of its own accord, the alpha dog does not force it to roll physically.

I personally think the barking around the course would drive me mad, and I have Kelpies which are not exactly quiet dogs! None of mine so far have been noisy on the course.

Certainly a behaviourist with experience in aggression is the way to go. A book I have that has some good non confrontational ways of dealing with aggression and small, easy to accomplish steps is Click to Calm: Healing the Aggressive Dog by Emma Parsons. It does have section on human aggression, I have mainly read the section on dog aggression though as that is the problem I have.

I've only tried this once with Kaos - he was keen on getting the treat and paid no attention to the ladder! He tended to jump over it side to side. But that was a while ago, he is a bit older now so I will try it again. I think they have a ladder that would be ideal at training.

I agree with the others - if they can bringing him inside should stop the barking. Mine sleep inside so they cannot bark at birds/possums/other dogs etc. They each have their own crate and go in there when I tell them bed time.

I agree with the others Separate when you are not there to supervise and get some professional assistance. Two male dogs the same age and given both their breeds . . .

I fed the lenard's chicken mince for a while as it is so cheap. But I agree it did tend to smell more than wings/frames I now feed wings or frames and they love it and it helps to keep their teeth white.

Wow that was FAST!!

Remember puppies are babies They have a very short attention span, so you will get the most out of a training session if it is kept short. Maybe around 5 minutes if that. Also, did you do other things in that 15 minutes or just sit? 15 minutes of repetitions of sit is going to get boring for a puppy. Play with the pup, you can also start teaching recalls, TOT, chasing toys.

I've been lucky with Kaos. He can be a silly bugger and its taken a while to get him to let me do his nails. I thought he would be tough in the bath, but he stayed quiet and didn't jump around. He didn't really enjoy it, but he didn't cause a problem. I put a slip lead on them, the blue and white ones they use at the vet, as they don't get gross when wet. He also loves the water generally, will splash around when I fill their pool, and when we went to the beach.

I feed chicken frames and chicken wings. Would love to try turkey necks/wings but have never seen them anywhere.

If you want good with cats and not destructive, probably best not to get a terrier (Westies are one) - as they were bred to be ratters, and may like a chase and dig. Cavaliers are nice little dogs,as are Cockers, but Cockers have more hair and are larger, and probably would like more exercise than a Cavvy too. Beagles - Because they like to scent they may not be that easy to train.

I didn't know Steve left Hanrob . . . interesting . . . I must be out of the loop

I do mine about once a month. Although Diesel may get done more often depending on allergies. I use Alloveen as it is soothing for Diesel's allergies and gentle, and smells nice too If they are grubby in between I wipe them with a damp cloth.

When mine get too rough I call them and they have to sit for treats, time out if necessary. Kaos hangs off of Diesel's neck sometimes too - but he has more hair than your guys and an abundant scruff and most of the time doesn't mind the little leech!

Is your pup scared of all people and all dogs or only certain ones? How much socialisation have you done - have you taken her to other places apart from puppy class? With a shy pup you may want to find some treats she really likes, and give these to strangers who agree to help. But you want her to go up to them on her own, not have the stranger come to your pup. You may have to get the strangers to sit/kneel at the beginning and not give eye contact and not pat her until she is more confident. With other dogs - what does she do when she sees them? Does she sort of want to say hi/investigate, does she bark or growl, try to run away, hackles up? What club are you currently training at? What sort of methods are you using and how busy is it? myszka started a thread to help her Dobe pup who is shy of men touching her. There is some good advice in there http://forums.dogzonline.com.au/index.php?showtopic=89384

Not any more of a worry wart than I am I openly admit my paranoia

I actually think she is pretty settled for a 10 month old pup!

If you and your vet think an elimination diet is the way to go to rule out food allergies they usually recommend Hills z/d which has a protein source that has been artificially made so they cannot be allergic to.

We also ruled out food allergies for my GSD, suspect grass also! Eagle Pack and Pro Plan have a fish formula. We use Eagle Pack anchovy etc at work for treats, as even the dogs with food allergies seem to be OK on it and the dogs love it! I use Pro Plan for my guys, haven't tried the fish yet though, might next time. Eukanuba also has a fish and potato formula.