Kavik

Thanks for the pics! I was there on Sunday, but my photographic skills are not good. Was a good day, didn't get to stay for govt vs SchH though. Do you know how the Mal pulled up after the injury?

Well, whatever works for the dog hey Thanks for that, I might try to get a look at that article, it sounds interesting and what I was thinking of doing.

I have the same problem with Zoe, I think from rushing the weaving and using the lure through straight weaves with guides that we did at first. I don't do much weaving with her now due to an injury. Not really sure how to fix it, she would be fine to a point and then really slow. I'm really hoping that with the foundation weaving I've done with Kaos he doesn't develop the same problem. I started a thread about possibly combining weaving methods, trying to decide if using a few methods to target different aspects would be good or confusing.

Hey guys I am currently using the channel weave method with Kaos. Going really well, he drives through the channel fast and can find the entrance from some angles on both sides. I am currently narrowing the channel. I was wondering if people ever combine a few methods, or do they usually stick to the one? The slanted pole method also looks really interesting and I can see how it would promote good footwork. Or using a different method just for entries? Would using more than one method confuse the dog? I currently only have a channel weave set but my birthday and christmas is sort of coming up . . .

Well we went to watch yesterday. Was a lot of fun, watched the SchH 3 dogs work. Very impressive until the last dog got injured on the courage test . 2 Malinois and a GSD. Sorry Monelite, no Dobes I didn't stay to watch the showdown between the police dogs and the Schutzhund dogs as I ran out of time, but wish I could have. I met up with sidoney and was there with my OH, baby, mum and brother (who were visiting from the USA). I also ran into Steve Austin and had a chat to him. He remembered me from the NDTF courses I have done and I got to see his young Malinois, very nice!

Do you have a good random drop/drop at a distance? I would get that first. I throw in random drops on walks when they are not paying attention to use as emergency command, so they will drop whenever. You have to be careful with drop on recall as it can slow the recall down. I haven't taught it to my guys as I want a super fast recall, no confusion over whether they will be asked something else.

Kristina, this is for Schutzhund, not security or personal protection. So I assume they are showing that the dog is not vicious as it can be patted by the decoy at the end

When I was doing a scent detection course they did mention something about not using cheese as it interferes with scenting. I can't remember why though, was several years ago. Cheese is what I use as treats too but I haven't done any serious scent work (only for fun), and only a little tracking.

Protection equipment is not something I would skimp on. It is likely the trainer has the bite equipment (very expensive stuff I think). As you know good quality leads and collars are $$$ but definitely worth it for protection work, it is there to keep everyone safe!

You need to decide what they mean for you or the dog has no chance of figuring it out! :rolleyes: I use click = release when I use a clicker. I use a release command when I am not using a clicker or marker word. I would build up the pause before the click (longer sit or whatever) or introduce a keep going command (like dogdude I use a drawn out goood). Using a release command means you don't have to use a stay command, dog should stay til you release. Though I think in ob ring you have to use stay, but that doesn't mean you can' use release command. Edit: Personally I wouldn't use a clicker to teach stand. Clickers are great for things where you want the dog to be interactive and think, I don't find them so good for calm exercises and I haven't seen the point for simple things like sit, stand, drop. They want to be active to get that click, so it is great for teaching them to touch, paw, push etc, but it also means that they don't want to stay still. I would simply lure and hold the dog in place/pat calmly etc and release when the dog is standing.

What about a piece of paper on the ground, and shape a foot target on the paper (and hence a stand) - I taught this to Zoe for fun for how they get dogs to go to a mark for TV work. Remember to click and reward any interest in the paper at the start.

The people training under K9 are not using the ecollar as a punisher - it is not like your tabasco/bitter spray. It is being used as a precursor to a command, letting them know a command is coming, and they learn that they can turn the collar stim off by complying with the command. So they use a low level stim at the working level (level the dog can just perceive it). So it is being used as negative reinforcement (-R), where the stim is removed when command is obeyed, not positive punishment (+P) when they do something wrong. It is being used to teach a command, not stop a behaviour. Edit: I don't use an ecollar on my dogs, but I like to learn and see how all types of equipment are used, regardless of whether I choose to use it or not.

I'd go back to target without command, shouldn't be too hard to reestablish.

Generally with targetting - one stimulus, one response. So you pick if you want nose or paw touch for the target, otherwise you might confuse the dog. With Diesel, left hand palm up he will give his paw, right hand facing him he will target with his nose, target stick target with his nose. Zoe will do a foot target on a piece of paper, nose target to hand, target stick and head inside a bucket.

Have you tried the food a little bit away from him and a bit higher when you lure from sit, so he can't try to nibble it? Like they do for baiting show dogs. I taught stand at same time as sit to avoid the problem of sitting instead of standing.

What size prongs do you have? I have one that is not the largest size prongs and it is fine for Diesel (40/45mm long), and a much smaller sized link for Kaos (~30mm long).

There is no way 4 weeks is long enough to teach a dog to weave properly Or do reliable contacts for the contact equipment for that matter, or do the see-saw well.

I think you are expecting too much for just 4 weeks working on it, I would open the channel and work on speed and enthusiasm. I wish I knew about it when I started training Zoe! Edit: I am the QUEEN of moving too fast and expecting too much! Including weaving and retrieving, I am reteaching Diesel's retrieve at the moment . . . Remember that unlike other agility equipment, weaving poles just look like a line of poles!

4 weeks is not long (how long is each session?). I have been doing this with Kaos (albeit not regularly) for a year. Zoe was not keen on weaving, so with Kaos I wanted to make it fun and try to get one of those super fast weavers! He loves it and is very fast and keen so far. It helps that he loves a squeaky toy so I can throw it as a reward. Here is a link to our beginning weaving work (about a year ago). He has progressed heaps since then, have to get OH to video our progress. Now I no longer use a food target and start beside him, use a toy and have narrowed the channel. And he is heaps faster. Here is Zoe for comparison, channel still open as she is very slow when closed so I backed up a few to get her speed up:

With the V Weaves you can start with the poles nearly on the ground I think (depending on the set?)

There are several ways to teach weaving. The main thing is it takes time and you have to be patient! I was too impatient when teaching Zoe, and her weaving was poor, so I have decided to take it slower with Kaos and get a good foundation before making it more difficult. Here are some methods: Channel weaves This is what I am teaching at the moment. Looks like you have done a little of this (two rows of poles that are far apart to start and you bring them together gradually). What I am doing is not concentrating on the weaving motion for the moment - that will come. I am working on getting the dog to find the channel on his own from different positions and go through the channel as fast as he can. This is to teach an independent weave where I don't have to be next to him for each weave motion. I started with the poles really far apart, and doing restrained recalls through the center with my OH holding him and me on the other end with food or toy. Then when he had the idea, I moved to me next to him with a toy and when he ran through the channel I threw the toy. Then I varied the angle of approaching the poles on both left and right side. If he misses the entrance no reward and we try again, multiple misses and I make it easier. Now I am finally narrowing the poles, though we are not yet to where he has to weave, but the channel is narrower and he has to work harder to find the entrance. V-Weaves This is where you have the poles on an angle/slant (like a V) when you start and slowly move them more upright so the dog slowly has to learn the weaving motion. 2 poles and clicker training This is teaching the dog to go between two poles, and then extend to more poles Hopefully people that use other methods will tell you how they train them

Yep Diesel has allergies and is currently on Macrolone

Maybe it would be worth going to Steve personally to help you find the working level for your dog and making sure the fit is correct?

Mine don't get bedding outside for this reason Kaos still chews bedding, and if outside I think he and Diesel would have a nice game of tug with it . . . Inside they have crates and Kaos only has old t-shirts and towels until he stops chewing, the others have blankets and fluffy things.

She's only 9 weeks old, give her a break! She is not likely to be housetrained reliably for months yet - it takes time. Kaos was pretty good as a pup for housetraining but for some reason really liked to go on the inside general use dog bed - so I moved it until he was reliably housetrained so he wouldn't get into a habit. You have to watch them carefully for their toilet signs, if you miss it, too bad for you, you can't blame a baby puppy.