Kavik

They look like heaps of fun People think Kelpies are nutso too - and maybe they are but if you can harness them they are great fun and very competitive in sports. The SchH people looked at me like I was crazy when I said I had Kelpies so thought I might be able to handle a Mal though

If I was going to go a Mal, von russelhof is where I was looking. Had a chat to Amanda and she sounded lovely and helpful. I am hoping that having Kelpies would help me with the Mals, they can be full on and not always that forgiving.

I'm considering what to get for my next dog - thinking of doing SchH or at least training with them to really get drive training down pat. Love the Sheps for stability etc and everyone says they are the best of the breeds I like for a learner SchH dog (I love the Mals but many say not the best first SchH dog) but I don't want another with allergies! Expensive and stressful. Are the Mals less prone to allergies etc?

I know people say BARF is not expensive, but it was when I tried it! And he needed a HUGE amount to keep weight on, I find it easier to keep him a good weight on a combination of dry and chicken frames. We tried the low allergen foods - Z/D for the trial, Eagle Pack fish or Pro Plan fish for every day, didn't make a difference.

You can add us to the GSD allergy list There is a patch on Diesel's flank he is always chewing, we are just getting the hair to grow back. His tummy, groin and inner legs are also effected. He is on cortisone and just finished a course of antibiotics. Let me know if you have any luck with the allergy testing, I haven't tried that yet. We did the controlled diet and ruled out food allergies.

Have you done any focus exercises? You can teach him to watch you on command, and get the focus on you instead of other dogs. You can do this with clicker training (you can search on this if you don't know what it is), or food spitting or you can use toys if he likes those. First get him to focus in a quiet area like the yard, then slowly move to where there are more distractions. It will probably take a while for him to focus in class - there is a lot going on there for a young dog!

For agility, you need a good recall, and a sit or drop stay. No precision heeling or attention work. I prefer to go to clubs that focus on only agility if I want to do it, rather than obedience and agility, as clubs that do both usually make you get to a certain class in obedience first. While I understand why they do this, I have no need to teach precision heeling, straight fronts, finishes etc to my agility dog. And I already have too much handler focus!

How is she a pain in the ass? I sometimes get frustrated with Diesel. He shows flashes of brilliance where he will work really well and be really motivated, then a few sessions later he will be soooo slow and unmotivated! Maybe I ask for too much too soon? Or I use different body language or am more inhibited at times? Anyway, the result is frustrating! I am at least using him as a learning dog, for both the things I did right and the things I did wrong. It was the first time I taught a flip/military finish, did that well! And first time I tried food spitting, and teaching a separate front/close recall. He loves both these exercises. Stuffed the retrieve though and heeling is inconsistent, good on his motivated days, not so good on his unmotivated days. But if you both enjoy something else more, go for it! If I had the time I would like to try more tracking with Diesel, he has really enjoyed the little we have done. He enjoys the little bit of agility I have done with him (more than obedience) but being accident prone I am not going to do it seriously with him!

I could use the tips too, as I am sure my nerves/different body language is why Diesel does not always perform as well as I know he can.

I am thinking (after having read MM post) about changing Walk on to Walk it for dog walk - flows much better! And our first few times with the chute have been saying through so may stick to that for all tunnels

It sounds tough in these states! There are several in Sydney, and even the busiest that I know doesn't turn people away for being too full. I admit I mostly train alone in my yard, but it is great getting to a class when I can.

This sounds very interesting! Not sure I have the money atm though Bummer.

My guys also get really excited when the clicker comes out - they enjoy this chance to get a reward! Probably also has something to do with the way clicker training helps to lighten the mood and make training fun. Like with all training, timing is the key, it is easy to accidentally shape behaviours you don't want - I have done that a few times and had to retrain - like Diesel's retrieve, he thought he was supposed to throw the dumbell once he got it in his mouth! I have used clicker training to shape putting an object in a box, and 2on/2off for agility among other things.

If you can't supervise her, put her somewhere she doesn't have access to stuff you don't want chewed. Whether this is a bathroom/laundry/crate or outside. Have you been doing foundation work training with her? If you want to use her for security, there is a lot to do to prepare them for this role. Lots of socialisation or neutralisation, prey foundation, used to noises/crowds/different footing etc. What they teach you in puppy class is mainly geared towards pet people and may not be suitable for a potential security dog. It is more training clueless handlers anyway with a bit of socialisation. Personally I think you would be better off finding a good obedience club, or Schutzhund club or something and do it that way. My next dog (either Malinois or GSD at this point) will be taken to the Schutzhund club as a pup for foundation prey work, not bothering with puppy class. A dog that is going to be a good working dog is going to be a right pain in the backside as a puppy! Kaos was a right little piece of work until around a year, worst at about 9 months. Have you seen Nekhbet's sig? Really accurate description of working dogs

You can get titles in obedience agility endurance tracking not sure about flyball?

Kaos was just really keen to get the reward and tried to cheat and take the shortcut at first :D which of course didn't get paid. He did it properly and fast in the end.

Is this agility for just socialisation and control or for competition agility? Cause you may do different things depending on your goal. I have been going to a few classes with Canine Fun Sports, who train for competition agility. Quite different to other clubs I have been to in some of their approach, which is to let the dog make choices about where to go and only reward correct ones. Eg we did the dog walk for the first time (have ramps at home though so he knows basic idea) - I was told to just let him go, if he jumps off early he just doesn't get rewarded, and not to be right next to him so he doesn't rely on me being there. Was really interesting. Yet I know clubs that incorporate some agility into their obedience may stress the control aspect over equipment rather than fast and independent movewment over equipment you stress for competition.

You shouldn't be using a correction collar on agility equipment, as it is dangerous if they slip and catch it on something. Most you should use is a martingale. I do my agility work off lead. If he is getting too distracted waiting his turn, maybe increase your distance to the equipment to an area you have more control. This is a good time to work on your focus work too :D If the issue is speed on the equipment (not sure if it is on the equipment or waiting your turn you have problems?) there are certainly better ways rather than correcting him to do this.

I agree with Cosmolo - easier to start with crate training, then it is available when you need it (like now for example, Diesel has injured himself AGAIN! and so is confined to his crate for a bit til he gets better). Later they can sleep on the bed if you wish, but if you start with the bed, it will be harder to move them to the crate if you want them to be in there for any reason. Mine get a bath about once a month. Diesel has allergies so needs more regular bathing than the others. I tend to just do them all at once!

dirty dog I don't remember which helper it was, sorry. Tapferhund The Shep I saw doing SchH3 was BIG! Looked like he had a very nice temp.

It was on the long attack/courage test.

I think I am probably too impatient for 2x2 I only have 6 poles at the moment, want to get 12 so I can practice the full amount once he can weave 6, just not sure which type to get. I would have to get a new set of 12 as I can't remember where I got my original 6 from, and want to have all the same. I like the channel method and haven't used slanted pole before, but know lots of people have success with it.

The channel is working so far, just not sure whether it would be better to introduce another method for footwork. These are the slanted weaves I was looking at: http://www.airdogs.com.au/agility/product....=252&page=1 or http://www.affordableagility.com/weavespvc.htm and the other channel: http://www.affordableagility.com/weaveschannel.htm

OK so the big question At the moment I have a set of 6 channel weaves on a base that can be moved to make it as close together as you want. But is a bit flimsy. I was going to ask for 2 sets of 6 (so 12 altogether) channel weaves of different design. Or would it be better to get a set of V-weaves so that I have both types? I just did a session then, he is starting to get a bit of a wiggle happening as we close the weaves, still driving through nice and fast and keen

Looked pretty nasty when it happened