Kavik

I was going to use that example too huski with the Goldie and the sled

I assume she means for use in the show ring as well as training, though I could be wrong.

Midol, this is for a show dog. You can't use a prong in the show ring! Personally for training I prefer a check chain over a fur saver as there are smaller increments of correction as there are smaller links, fur savers have big links so when one goes through the collar it is a bigger change. (if that makes sense ) Not sure about difference in saving coat as I have not used a fur saver regularly. What about a nylon check collar? Or is the dog needing a chain collar?

I recently asked about titre testing at my vet - they had to get back to me as they don't normally do them. It turns out it's at least twice as expensive as the vaccination ($150/200) and has to be sent to other states, maybe even o/s to get done? There is also a 3 yr vaccine (Why don't they tell us this normally? I only found out asking about titre tests) The vet's reason for yearly vaccinations - so that they could do a yearly health check on the dog and pick up any problems early.

I use one of those Orbee balls on a string for drive training. But in the wide world they don't tend to be interested in it (they are great in the yard) so there I use a tough plastic squeaky toy, which they love and always work well for. I don't squeak it often, mostly use it like a ball.

Regardless of the training, if her dog does not like yours, why risk it by allowing them together off lead at all? Especially as the other dog is so much bigger than yours. Certainly why would you do this with the other owner out of sight?

Midol I'm not into easy dogs either

Think about what Sibes were originally bred for. To pull sleds over distances. They had to take command from their master, but they had to be independent enough to be able to refuse to do it if it was unsafe, eg if the ice was too thin etc. They had to have initiative and think for themselves. This means that they will not be as biddable as breeds that have been bred to work for people (eg gundogs or herding dogs). Not untrainable, but not the easiest breed to train either

ANKC affiliated clubs most likely won't let you use them at the club or at a trial, as that is their policy.

As far as I know they are not illegal in NSW. But I can never find any information on it, I've looked too! I've had people who don't agree with me try to tell me they are illegal and threaten to call the RSPCA on me though - this is why bandannas are good when walking with a prong

My guys do chicken carcasses with no problems, but the only one who is big enough for it to be a potential problem (Diesel) is a careful eater. The Kelpies are faster eaters but being smaller they have to chew them well! I am always around when they eat though in case there ever is a problem.

I only give soft bones that the dog can totally digest - normally chicken frames. More to make sure there is nothing to fight over later. On a side note, why do you leave food out all the time? There are many benefits to having a set number of feeds as opposed to free feeding.

Yeah you can get pseudo drugs, often used to train scent detection dogs, made by sigma I think? And yes from memory they are illegal unless you are law enforcement or something? Midol, you'll have to do what the rest of us did and train them on something really useless, I used mint

Having been both client and staff at vet clinics I much prefer dogs in cages than tethered! Safer for everyone! Some dogs are aggro with people/dogs/cats etc. What if a cat accidentally got loose and ran towards a tethered dog? Or a scared dog got loose and a got in a scuffle with a tethered dog? I have had dogs tethered when working when they are too big to go in the cages ( a few of the giant breeds didn't fit!) but much prefer everything in a cage!

Never heard of this either. Are the dogs run together or separately? If the dogs are kept separately could it be the male trying to get in with the female? frustration from being separated? That is the only way I could make sense of that idea even so you could work with it.

I haven't had any nasty comments about them since I started using bandannas - also remember that not many people know what they are. Though I wouldn't bring it along to an obedience class

I just use a bandanna - has the added benefit of making your dog look less 'scary' too - I get heaps of comments on the bandannas and heaps more people wanting to say hi to them

Yep second one is a martingale. The first one you posted, tightens in one direction/spot only (uneven pressure), like a check chain, except it doesn't tighten all the way as a check chain does. The second one tightens evenly (even pressure) around the dog's neck. Does that make sense?

Where are you located? People could then let you know of good local clubs

I think this is my biggest problem with Diesel. When I am upbeat and feeling comfortable he works really well. If I am nervous, unsure or tired, he doesn't work nearly as well. While it happens to some degree with my other dogs, it is most noticeable with Diesel for some reason.

My guess is that the sound is interesting/urgent and is able to cut through other sounds to get their attention. I might check it out if it is effective as you say! :rolleyes:

That is a lot to cover in 10 weeks! IMO that is trying to do too much in too short a time. You will just get a taste of it all and not concrete any of it. At such a young age I would place more importance on foundation work in whatever discipline/s you wish to continue with. Trust me, I sooo wish I had done more foundation type work with Diesel, I am now paying for my lack of patience! :rolleyes: I would go to a local obedience class first, if you can find one that suits. I would work on basic obedience - recall, sit, drop, focus work, playing with toys, chasing toys, if you want something fun, tunnels are a fun introduction to agility work, but there is a heap of foundation work for that too that doesn't require any obstacles at all. What you want to do is build a solid foundation on which to put further training, even if the dog is to be a pet only not a competition dog. Too much too early can make dogs bored of training later on, you want it to be fun You shouldn't be trying to properly weave with a dog that is not fully grown (though they may just be doing an open channel which would be fine). I don't think you could train a dog to weave properly in 10 weeks even if you focussed on that!

4 Paws the collar you pictured is a limited slip not a martingale

The only thing Jessca is that prongs are illegal in Vic. Erny is working hard to change that though! But I'm not sure how you would get around that, unless you are going to do it on the sly and hope you don't get caught.

How old is she? My previous dog Belle had Vestibular disease when she got older, sounds similar to this, looked like a stroke. She recovered each time (happened 2 or 3 times after she reached 14) within a week, but was disoriented, had a head tilt, salivated and panted a lot etc in that time. I'd take her to the vet to get her checked out.