Kavik

I don't think they are that different? Some people may use different methods, but the tests don't look all that different, besides the angle of turns (always 90 degrees in SchH).

"The dog must positively indicate the articles by either sitting, standing, downing, picking up or at least pausing to obtain a pass." From ANKC rules. I didn't realise pause was allowed - drop still the safest as it is also permitted in SchH

I agree safest to teach a drop. What are you using for articles. I am not sure what to use.

I'm pretty sure the dog can indicate by dropping, sitting or standing but has to do the same thing each time.

I haven't started articles yet, but the book I am using teaches them off the track first. I am going to do a drop at the article, makes the most sense to me. I was thinking start simply by putting article down while dog watches and drop dog when it goes to it? Not sure lol.

You also tend to forget how much work puppies are. My parents like to say how lovely and well behaved my previous dog Belle was, forgetting that she was a terror as a pup and even as an adult would raid the bin and was a shameless food thief.

From the details given in the OP you admit to being afraid the behaviour may escalate and she may bite someone. You did not give details as to the three times this happened until now, so we only had what you had given us, which sounded like you had been at an offlead park each time.

I agree with Monelite

I wouldn't say it is a common GSD thing - Diesel does not do this nor his breeder's dogs - and they are security dogs. There is a GSD at the park that does this to Diesel - rushes up, barking, hackles up, but not to people. It would be terrifying to be on the other end of that display I'm always careful when I let Diesel go up to people in case they are scared of him, though he goes up gently and is a big smooch butt, loves to lean on and get pats from guys.

For this sort of problem, a professional is really what you need. The internet is great but for serious problems you need someone to come in and help you. If you let us know your location (approx, city is fine) then we can recommend someone. Yes they cost money but it is definitely worth it, they will be able to see what is going on and give you some methods to deal with it. We cannot see what she is doing and how she is acting. It is not a failure to go to a behaviourist, many people, myself included, have gone to see one when they had a problem they could not deal with themselves. Actually I wish I had gone to one much sooner with one of my other dogs, then maybe she wouldn't have the problem she does today.

Agree with Nekhbet. See a behaviourist ASAP and DO NOT LET HER OFF LEAD!

Whoops sorry just remembered they are not training on the 2nd of November either I am trialling that weekend so forgot about training not being on.

Try not to let him get in Kaos's face though - he's not keen on that.

Paws 4 Fun are not training this weekend. The Sunday after they are, beginners is at 4pm. I will be there with Kaos. I am currently waiting him out so that he is not released to do the course until he looks at the obstacle and not me (thanks to Vickie ) - working but can be frustrating

Paws 4 Fun and Canine Fun Sports are differently set up to Agility Dog Club. They are much smaller class sizes, and less equipment set up (at least at Canine Fun Sports in St Ives, as they cart the equipment with them, they probably have more in Castlereagh. And it is not all set up at Paws 4 Fun - have not seen the A-Frame set up there yet. ) I really like Canine Fun Sports, the way the exercises are set up are great for teaching sequences, and lots of fun. Have only been to Paws 4 Fun a few times and have had a different instructor each time, a little frustrating as then they don't know where you are up to and you have to tell them again. I am trying to really get my weaving down pat so I can get out of beginners as I am getting a bit frustrated there. ETA: I have a dog with too much focus on me!

What about going back to basics? One jump, reward. One jump, turn and reward. etc. I agree with the others re letting him play with the other dogs.

The only clubs that personally know of that don't allow food use more traditional methods of show/guide/place and praise, and use check chains. Every club that I have attended allows and encourages the use of anything your dog likes as a reward.

I would, but I always use food, and only go to clubs that allow food. Or if he follows your hand you could try it without the food, just with your hand and praise (same movement as with food) - not sure how well this will work though, depends on how motivated he is to follow your hand with no food. From your edit: If you teach a drop from a sit they may always want to do a sit first as you are experiencing. From a stand, you can teach a foldback drop which is quicker and efficient.

Have you been using food? I always teach drop from a stand, never from a sit. You could try luring from a stand, bringing the food to the ground and either forward between his legs or back between his legs towards his chest.

Also, when he doesn't listen, is one time you could correct him, providing you are sure he knows what he is supposed to do. What I have been doing, and it is working well, even with my dog aggro dog, is clicker training attention, and even if he looks away to look at the dog/motorbike etc, when he looks back at you he gets a click/treat. This idea is from the book Click to Calm. In the end what I've found is they will look at distraction, then look back at you and not pull/bark/lunge at the distraction.

The times where high value rewards come in very handy is when there are distractions, which is why I always have treats when out and about. If he knows he will only get a pat on the head when out, but a treat at home, he may not see it worthwhile to do it when out. Also your body language when you give the command makes a big difference. I know personally this is something I have to work on, as if I give out nervous vibes my dogs don't work as well.

What do you do to reward 'look' and what do you do when he ignores it? (and how did you train it)

Hi Melbomb Reinforcers are anything your dog likes, such as food, toys, pats and praise. Have you done any focus work with him? Does he have a command which means look at you/pay attention? This is a good idea to build up, first in a low distraction area (like your backyard) and then on walks and training. I bring reinforcers with me everywhere when I bring a dog - to training, on a walk, to my parent's house. This means I have the opportunity to reward good behaviour and to work on training at any time. Is this for loose lead walking or for heeling (walking next to you)? You may also want to try a martingale, does not tighten as much as a check chain but tightens more evenly.

Just reread the first page - answers the OPs question right there with lots of responses on topic (including mine)

Hi Melbomb Check chains can be a useful tool in training. I use one on Diesel when doing obedience, mostly to get his attention when he loses focus as he can be easily distracted at times. I also use food and toy rewards for giving focus, including clicker training and food spitting. So using a check chain or any equipment is only one part of the equation, it is what you do with it and what other reinforcers you are using that is important.