Kavik

No Kelpies on the list that I could see :laugh: Every list I have ever seen ranks Border Collies at the top for intelligence, there is no surprise there!

I noticed Leerburg has an online course about starting up your own dog business. Theirs looked pretty good and comprehensive - I was tempted to do it! lol. It was considerably more expensive.

Does your computer have a DVD drive? Most do? You can watch DVDs on your computer :)

I agree with the others - classified on coat colour and length. With two longhaired parents, you won't get a short haired dog. So yours would be a Terv.

me too :laugh: What about smisch who is on here (not sure if she comes around here anymore though?) I'm pretty sure you guys know her? Shows Lowchens and does agility. She has moved somewhere up that way.

Oooh now I'm intrigued :laugh: Is it for you guys? You getting a different breed?

I haven't noticed cheese causing a problem with my guys.

Cheese is the highest value for my guys! I also use Scotty's dog rolls.

Has she been checked for megaesophagus? I know someone whose dog has this, similar symptoms, managed by feeding and giving water tothe dog in an upright (beg/sit pretty) position (she made a special thing to help hold the dog in the correct position for this).

Our club teaches 2x2 now, before that they used to use guides However, my personal view is that if the handler and dog are not good at shaping, that 2x2 would be very difficult and frustrating, especially trying to teach it at a club with so many people at different levels and the level of distraction found at a club. I would teach either a 2 or 3 pole method for entries, and slanted poles for speed/footwork at a club

Stuff happens with dogs, especially when more than one together, I would worry about her not telling you though, that is the most important thing, if something happens, well sometimes things happen, but you have to say what happened!

Looks like teeth marks to me!

Oh no, I'm so sorry huski

Sending positive vibes

It does depend on how tall the dog is, you don't get to choose :) 545 mm is the height cutoff between 500/600, Kaos is 570 I would be hoping to be measured into 500 with an older dog starting out

I agree with TSD - 500 would be easier on your dog's body than only just making 600. And here placings aren't as important - you can still title your dog if you don't win or place, you just need to qualify, so you don't need to beat the fastest 500 jumping BCs to do well :) A placing is very sweet though! Kaos is also well into the 600s, and we often place in separate heights but very rarely in all heights. A lot of competitions in NSW are separate heights now :) Wonder the case will be after the rule changes come into place

I think I would be going around the other upright on 13

Yeah bars would be an indicator for me too, as Kaos is not generally a bar knocker. As he is not the kind to fly around the course regardless of how he feels, I'm sure he would let me know if something was wrong :laugh:

There is no upper age limit imposed for agility (there is a minimum age of 18 months) People retire their dogs at various ages, depending on the individual dog. I am probably retiring Kaos at the end of this year, he turns 9 at the end of the month. He is still fit and happy and actually running very very well at the moment! He jumps 600 and I would rather retire him while he is still running well rather than continue to compete with him and have him injured or show that he is unhappy to run, I want to finish on a high!

I would just use it where it is :). A few times go to the crate with the Sammy, throw some treats in there with the door open, have Sammy go in there, throw in a few more while in there, feed dinner in there etc

Have you tried doing more work with the crate during the day? Then it is not seen as such an 'only nighttime and I don't like this routine' thing. Making the crate a fun place to be, feed in the crate. treats in the crate, leaving doors open and throw food in there etc. Could also try Crate Games

I think the thing I am struggling with is 7 - 8

With my young dog I will probably do some blinds (following Shape Up Dogs similar to H360) but I am not doing them at all with Kaos, this is his last year competing so don't want to change things. I could do it with a front cross before 6. I am just wondering if it is a nicer line from the other side of 6, taking the far upright? It is longer than taking the other way, but does it set the dog up on a better line for 7-8 with less handling needed there? For this I am thinking dog on left the whole time, backside of 6 with a post turn.

I don't do blind crosses with this dog :laugh:, so would be doing a front cross after tunnel. So everyone thinks the near side of 6. I also see a way of doing it with dog on left the whole time, going around the other upright of 6, just not sure if it is economical to do so of which is the best path. My main issue is 7 and 8 . . .

Studying this :laugh: OK which side of 6 would be best? Tunnel side or broad jump side? I don't have any super fancy handling tools, but do have a backside of jump verbal.