Kavik

I WOULDN'T take the treat. Ribbon, squeaky, ball are my preferences

Well, you could just use what she does then if you wanted to That would be a legitimate contact, though not what most train for. If you really think she can't stop that quickly, you could just proof the nose touch with four feet on ground, unless you really want to teach a 2o2o. Have you gotten her to jump on the A-Frame from the side as ness suggested? I did this with Kaos the first time, no running the A-Frame, just getting into position.

You said she was going too fast to get her 2o2o. So what did she do? Did she continue to run through the contact? Jump off? Bounce off? Did she stop? With your seesaw have you worked on teaching her to control the bang? What has been suggested to me for Kaos's sliding is stride regulators, I don't know how to use them though, so may try to find someone who does to help out.

What did she do? What do you mean she had problems staying on the A-Frame? Did she slide down the bottom part, did she land and bounce? How have you trained your 2o2o? Kaos has only done the full sized A-Frame a few times. The last time I noticed that he slid the last bit down, I assume from putting on the brakes to get his 2o2o.

I love searching Youtube for great training videos - gives me something to aim for in my training or just WOW! factor . Here are some of my favourites at the moment. Feel free to comment and post your favourites! Running Dogwalk 2o2o Dogwalk Running A-Frame 2o2o A-Frame http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AswoQlwp8jk Seesaw

Such a lovely boy! Can't believe he is still looking for a home!

Yes I agree ideally dogs that are not interested in play would ignore the doofus but doofus should not annoy them either, good doggy manners means being aware of when play is wanted and when play is not wanted. When the owner ignores your repeated calls that your dog does not want to play, and the doofus continues to harrass your dog (who has done nothing wrong, you are minding your own business, walking or training or whatever) it gets rather annoying, and possible that your dog will react. The perception that all dogs should want doofus in their face bouncing all over them and if your dog does not want it it is automatically a problem is an issue. People do allow doofus to annoy dogs that are minding their own business and to bounce all over the tiny little dog who is just wandering around, with the possibility of hurting them through size alone. This does not mean doofus and his owner are right. Because of this, one good way to avoid confrontations is not to visit places where doofus and his owner hang out. Hence why I don't take those of my dogs who do not want to play with doofus to the dog park.

I was also quoted around $180 at my local vet. Haven't done it yet cause that is more expensive than vaccs! Hoping to find someone cheaper for titer tests!

Was she fed just prior to this happening? What breed of dog and what age?

My issue is not with dogs enjoying playing with others. My concern is with the other end of the coin - what about dogs who aren't interested in playing with other dogs even from a young age? I think you need to consider the individual dog and breed of dog. Some breeds are more happy to play with other dogs than others. I think trying to make all dogs happy to play with other dogs, when they never wanted to play with them in the first place, is what can cause problems. There is no need to force rough and tumble interactions between dogs. If a little dog is not comfortable with a big doofus dog running into them and slobbering all over them, there is no need for you to put them in that situation, it could actually be dangerous for the little dog. More important is to make sure they have doggy manners and can meet and greet appropriately, without bouncing all over the place, using dominating body language or slobbering all over the other dog. What is very important is that the owners recognise signs of when their dog is comfortable and more important not comfortable in a situation with another dog so they can prevent problems.

These breeds are quite different in temperament, as they were bred for a different purpose. What would you like to get out of the dog? How much exercise are you prepared to give the dog? How much training are you prepared to give the dog? Both are high energy and large dogs and will require training to make good canine citizens. Are you interested in any dog sports? Obedience, agility, flyball etc. Both breeds shed - GSD have a longer coat which sheds twice a year, but Labs also shed a lot.

My OH also thinks they are boring On topic, there was also an Amstaff at the daycare that I loved - and they also are not normally my thing. This was a lean, athletic, highly driven dog who was very keen. A bit much for her owners I suspect Would have made a lovely sports or working prospect with some work. Unfortunately as the daycare became busier, she found the environment too stimulating and we had to ask the owners not to bring her in anymore.

Working in the dog daycare I got plenty of opportunity to see Labs at their worst - most staff there agreed it put them off Labs for life They are the ones that put massive holes in the walls at work with their heads and ate through the fences and screamed the place down at lunch time which was nap time/quiet time. So yes I was very surprised when I found one that I liked No offence Lab people - I'm sure some of you don't like Kelpies or GSDs either

There have been a couple at the daycare I worked at that I would have loved to take home. Including a Labrador - they are not normally my thing but this was a smaller built fellow with plenty of drive and so happy to work and very quick with commands.

Very good point pip

Do you know the name of the establishment? It is very important with any in house training that follow up training is done as well. I am not sure that 2 weeks boarding and training would fix dog aggression issues as a lot of the time it is how the handler is reacting as well that is part of the problem. I have a dog aggressive dog, and it is stressful and at times difficult to remain calm which is necessary as the dog picks up on your stress.

Yes using the same word for two different things will confuse the dog. Best to use one word = one action. Doesn't matter which one you change, as long as you are consistent and use the same word for the same thing. Like Vehs I use Drop for lie down and Give for let go of object. Common alternatives are: Lie Down: Down Drop Lie Deck Let go of object: Drop Give Out

Would love to but too far away

You said pup allowed in laundry right? So you could put the crate in the laundry, which is not outside (or is it an external laundry?). Or maybe they'd be alright if you put the crate in say the kitchen if dog was only in crate and not wandering around.

It is nice of the landlord to allow the dog in the laundry, I wouldn't stress When I got Diesel we were renting, dogs had to be outside. I had their crates set up inside in a sunroom near the backdoor, the landlord had seen them, not a problem. So Diesel was crate trained, but was outside (though when we visited my parents, he was allowed inside in their house). There was no problem with the transition of allowing him in the house when we moved. I think you will be fine, don't worry You can still crate train the way you intended.

They can learn it at any age though. Zoe had been lured or positioned only, and it wasn't until she was older (can't remember how old - 5 or 6 maybe?) that I taught her to shape properly with a clicker.

Shaping can be VERY frustrating! Especially at the beginning when they are just figuring it out.

Your experience certainly does colour views on socialising. Be glad you got lucky :p My views on socialising are based on the fact that I got unlucky Did the puppy preschool and dog park route with Zoe and she is dog aggressive :cool: So I am more careful and more aware now.

red sable - pretty :D Yes, second some photos

I actually didn't start with the box game it is a very frustrating thing to do when the dogs have not done any clicker work before. I started with a simple targetting behaviour - touch my hand with their nose. The looking at you problem is common at the start of clicker training as they are used to you telling them what to do, not used to figuring it out themselves. It might take a little while for them to get it.