Kavik

Yep mine jumps 600 He is a tall fellow. However I think we will be quite competitive in separate heights trials.

That is amazing if you are going on memory! Those would be some small Kelpies and Border Collies to be in 400!

Kaos is fast and driven but he is a sensible dog and not a 'Ferarri'

And some of them are finding out that there's more to being competitive than owning a winning breed. Oh for sure! I see plenty of BCs blasting around the course minus handler You have to be a good trainer and a good handler to handle a very fast driven dog.

Jumping 500, I consider them large! I think Brittanies are a med-large size breed. My personal fav of the coated gundogs Though if you were thinking of going that size, you would probably be considering the top agility breeds like BCs and Kelpies as well as you will be competing against them. Even some 'small dog people' are finding it hard/impossible to resist the idea of getting a BC if they are competitive type people

I also love Schipperkes (I had one when I was a kid) and atm they are my personal favs for a small dog, but having spoken to some Schip people they can be more independent than the more common performance breeds. Also, despite their body shape (which is not exactly ideal for agility) I have seen a couple of Corgis that are great little agility dogs! Vallhunds also sound like they would be good, but I haven't met many of them.

Kelpie X Cattle X Foxie? Very cute

What are your thoughts on hair? Especially with smaller dogs, many of them have long hair. Any type of coat you would prefer or not consider? Or look/type of dog? Some ideas: Sheltie Mini Poodle Papillon Cavalier Bit bigger: Cocker Spaniel Competitive but a bit more independent: JRT Border Terrier Manchester Terrier Japanese and German Spitz

What she needs to learn is how to be polite and say hi to other dogs instead of barelling in there to wrestle. I would refrain from letting her continue this behaviour or it could become ingrained and how she thinks she should meet other dogs, and you are right, this could cause a lot of issues as she gets older. Many dogs (and owners!) would be very overwhelmed by such a welcome. Instead of allowing her to rush up to other dogs offlead, have you done any introductions on lead? Have you done any focus work with her? I would do focus work first, get a really good response to her name and/or recall command, and also I would do clicker work for attention, any time she looks at you, and build from there til you can do this with other dogs around and she chooses to look at you after seeing another dog. For introductions, I would only let her do a sniff and say hi then get her attention and walk away, without letting her barrell the other dog. Best bet would to see a trainer for this, with a quiet, calm dog who is not going to react (or play ) with your pup while you do this. Good luck! I do actively avoid dogs who exhibit the behaviour of your pup, so it is good you are trying to fix it.

My guess it is a TAFE course When I did Animal Studies you could then go on to vet nursing and further animal courses.

This could be worded better - it does not really make sense. Something like "However this is where their similarity ends" I would mention (as the others have pointed out) that gundogs are bred to work with people, and only track down the game and/or retrieve it, whereas terriers are bred to work independently of people and are expected to kill/hold their prey. And point out what this means as an owner of these dogs in terms of training and drives, how they get along with other animals, how easy they are to train for taking commands in obedience etc

Yes playing tug and teaching him the rules of the game is very useful - gives them an outlet for their drive, helps teach self control, gives you a GREAT reward for training and is FUN!

We had a fun ADAA Jumping trial yesterday. Quallie in the game Jumping Without Weaves and 2nd place A fun course with 6 tunnels Kaos also gave me very nice work in Starters and Intermediate, got his weave entries both times (one right side one left side) and weaved really well. We need to work on our rear crosses though as Kaos pulled off a jump when I did one.

I also reward for checking in - if they come to me on their own steam they get a treat too Have you tried recalling when she is a short distance from you, and do it all the time? You can pick a distance, and when she gets to that distance, recall her (I find running the other way as well as rewarding with their favourite treat/toy works well, even with my low drive dog). I find if I do this often, they won't go that far away and will start checking in on their own when they get a certain distance away.

Do you have toys that he is allowed to chew? You could try redirecting him to appropriate toys when he tries to bite you. Sounds like he may be a good candidate for training in drive! You could get some tug toys and teach him to tug on those instead of you and your clothes.

Yay go Denver!

Well done Jedi

Very interesting but he contradicts himself a couple of times. By saying that encouraging retrieval as pups will produce dogs with high drive and not encouraging it will produce dogs with lower drive, then saying that dogs with high drive will turn neurotic if not given an outlet for that drive. Though I think I know what he is trying to say (certainly that encouraging it will help if you are after using drive in your training).

Personally I find it quicker and easier to just pop it down their throat Diesel who gets fish oil tablets every day and occasionally antibiotics or cortisone when his skin flares up is very easy to pill. After his pills he always gets his dinner. If your dog is at the vet and needs medicating, or is being boarded and needs medicating, they will not mess around hiding it in food but put it straight down their throat. Much easier for everyone involved if your dog is already used to having this done. Like any other handling/grooming/medicating etc. I find it easier with big dogs - you can get your whole hand down there

No need to apologise Diva - I just thought I better clarify a little that's all I would say it's a combination Kavik. Spencer gives signals but Flynn doesn't always take notice. Spencer, being a little timid possibly reacts instead of backing off when he 'can't cope'. Flynn tends to back off from trouble. Judging by the injuries which Flynn sustained - Spencer definately had a go and poor Flynn mus have tried to 'get away'. I don;t know the exact cause - could have been play which turned into a fight. It definately was not over food because I am very diligent about no food being left out - bones are never buried etc. Flynn is fine with the westies - he adjust his play style with them and if they give Flynn 'back off' signals - then Flynn backs off! Beside that one incident - Flynn & Spencer play and chase a ball at the park together - jump into the car together - lie down next to each etc etc. ps. If the weather is ok tonight - I might bring Flynn to agility training around 8.30pm for a visit I would love to meet Flynn ;) He sounds really lovely. Hoping the weather is OK!

Unless they have a huge Kelpie like mine who has to jump 600 I've seen more Minis than Standards in agility. Could be because they are more popular generally? If litter regos are anything to go buy, the Mini is the least popular of the three sizes. Buggered if I know why. That is odd, they are such a nice size. Though a Poodle is in no way on my list (no offence :cool: ), the Mini would be my preference due to size.

Unless they have a huge Kelpie like mine who has to jump 600 I've seen more Minis than Standards in agility. Could be because they are more popular generally?

I've only had tooth marks on muzzles, nothing requiring veterinary attention. My guys have been pretty good, even though Zoe is dog aggro and can be possessive, she is OK with the dogs she lives with. So you think the problem is Flynn and Spencer? Could you rotate who is crated so Flynn gets some days in the yard? Would he be OK with the Westies?

I only have 3 so probably don't count Mine all run together. When Kaos was a pup I had him in a separate run while I wasn't home to supervise. I have 4 potential runs/separate areas, but at the moment all run together in the two big ones combined with the door open. For walks/training etc I rotate. One walk in the morning with the pram, one or two in the evening (depending on when OH gets home). I do some training on walks, on weekends and when my son is having a nap and Kaos gets to agility training once or twice a week and competes a few weekends a month (depending on when they are on).

What sort of training has the Kelpie had? Does she have basic obedience? Sit, recall, drop? What is her temperament like (apart from boisterous)? Does she like toys? Tug? Food treats? Have you had many enquiries for her? Would she suit a pet home or sports/performance home better?