Kavik

In the breed I have (Working Kelpies) prices are often listed on the website Some working line GSD also have it on their websites. Often varies between litters from the same breeder as well as between breeders. With Kelpies they also list puppies and started (on stock) older puppies and dogs.

Zoe is scared of thunder and fireworks. Luckily once she is allowed to get under something (coffee table or bed preferably) she calms down and is quiet. You just have to remember she is under there so you don't step on her or move the table

My dogs are 10 1/2, 6 1/2, 4. I would like to get another dog in a year or 2 when Kaos is at a higher competition level, and I have ironed out all the kinks in our performance so that I have a better idea how to train up the new competition prospect.

That's funny because my OH won't let me get a BC

This is one time I agree with you The only thing you forgot to mention is that it is also FUN!

Kelpie Belgian Malinois Koolie Dutch Shepherd Belgian Groenendael Schipperke German Spitz Japanese Spitz German Shorthaired Pointer Manchester Terrier Almost did it all with pointy ear dogs Probably could if I tried hard enough . . . I could do GSD Swedish Vallhund at the end instead and it would work

One of my friends (who is on this forum) has 3 dogs currently competing in agility, all of whom are rescues One of them currently has the following titles: ADX ADO JDM JDO GDX SD SPD HT ET

I have also seen several rescue dogs do very well in agility, and a few foster dogs that would also do very well. I keep my eye on the pound threads and the temperament information from testers and volunteers, and it seems quite a few nice dogs come through. Best bet would be to get a young adult dog where you know the temperament and structure, and make sure it gets a good temperament test from someone you trust and knows what to look for in a sports dog. I got my rescue as a puppy, and before I knew anything about temperament ( she doesn't have a good temperament for sports). If I was to do a rescue again, I would get a lot more help assessing the dog first.

Very good questions. The second one re FCI and KNPV is complicated and messy :D If you go to www.specialistcanines.com you will get plenty on that subject. The size question also baffles me - the pics I've seen and conversations I've had with Dutchie people suggest they are much bigger than this. Kaos is 57cms, I seriously doubt a Dutchie would be that small!

This is what I'm worried about. Not all dogs play like that. I really need a well balance dog to teach Emmy manners because she can potentially turn into a bully. Charlie lets her get away with it and so does my brother's beagle. The only animal that can keep her in line is Evil Ninja (my dad's black cat). I know someone with Jap Spitzes and yep they can be quite vocal when they play and quite 'sparky' if things go pearshaped in play as well.

My dogs are also very noisy and rough when they play together. But they don't play as roughly or loudly with strange dogs, only each other. Maybe the other pup was a bit intimidated by yours, which is fair enough. Not all dogs want to run in there and roughhouse and play growl.

I know plenty of people who do well in agility who have acquired their dogs as young adults, including some on this forum It is personal preference as to whether to get a pup or older dog, with pros and cons for each. For rescue, there is certainly a lot to be said for getting a young adult instead of a pup. There certainly is a lot of foundation work that you can do with a younger dog before they are fully grown and able to jump. I would not jump a big dog like a Dobe before 18 months.

Yep as Huski said some scent detection dogs (AQIS/Customs) are trained with food rewards, while others are rewarded with a game of tug, depending on what the dog values most. Police dogs are rewarded in prey drive (tug/bitework) as are security dogs.

I'm sure they do Ever notice that your check-in luggage is a bit beat up?

It also depends on what your aim is. I train competitive agility, and while my breed is among the more competitive and easy to train for agility, and they love it (Kelpies), external rewards are very impotrant. This is true both for honing particular skills (weaving, or consistent fast contact performance) as well as fast overall performance speed and driving to the finish. To get that extra zip that makes a great performance dog, you have to 'pay' the dog for a job well done, whether with food/toys/a game. While herding dogs are trained without external rewards, working the sheep IS their reward. With behaviours that are not as instinctive, external rewards give the dog a good reason to do them well. AND it is a lot of fun!

And this is precisely why I DON'T go to 'dog parks'.

Very cute

to PAX! And I am very careful who I leave my dogs with. Another alternative could be his breeder? I have done this before with my guys too.

Nearly split my sides reading that description

Thanks Tony, I didn't realise we had a Facebook page for this Are you doing the ADAA WAC trial? I am going to the Erskine Park one.

Unfortunately, Hetzer, the dogs who live with us in our human 'civilised' world aren't "in nature". They don't have the daily freedoms they used to have, to wander and mix freely with other dogs as they used to in my childhood days, to self socialise. And what that means is that there are many dogs who aren't always 'stable' in themselves, so to allow your dog to wander freely using off-lead parks for the purpose is not something that will assure you your dog will learn appropriately or fairly or sufficiently, because those dogs themselves have not necessarily learnt appropriately or fairly or sufficiently. By comparison to the UK, for example, our dogs aren't as settled as theirs seem to be (generally speaking). In contrast, our society regards dogs in general as something that is anti-social to be around. In the UK, they have the freedom to travel and mix with humans in their day to day lives outside of their homes. Here, we've battled laws that suggest they shouldn't be in outdoor cafes for fear of a dog hair floating and making its way over to someone who might be eating. :D, to name just one. Here, the push seems to be to isolate the dogs more and more from 'life', yet somehow miraculously expect the dogs to be completely comfortable with 'life'. Which means that after generations of dogs not learning well enough themselves, we have many enough who are bad teachers. So, to suggest (which I think you were) that it is a better thing to let your dog run up to other dogs (whether that be because you allow them to or whether that be because you have no control to stop it) ...... I'm afraid I can't agree. :D

I couldn't agree more. Play is a mechanism for learning about life, and over-protective owners shield their SWF's into a world of neurosis that matches their own. Since the only one of my dogs which was allowed to learn manners at an off leash dog park with not a lot of human interference is the only one of my dogs that is now aggressive towards other dogs, I will have to respectfully disagree with you here :D Many dogs if not taught properly do not learn how to appropriately meet other dogs and say hi politely and tend to barrell up to other dogs and get in their face (Labs and Staffies I've noticed can be particularly rude if not taught properly)

Well done!

The Working Kelpie Council also lists breeders and litters available of working Kelpies, if she decides she can handle a working line dog. What do they want to do with the dog? Any performance sports or just a pet? http://www.wkc.org.au/ Some working line breeders won't sell to pet homes though.