Kavik

Well, feel free to post videos then :D I have been searching Youtube and that was the closest I could find.

But if they were as cute as , the name Cupcake would be fine!! When were looking at breeder websites, OH found out the owner of Beloka Kelpie Stud auditioned for "Australia's Got Talent". Also, Cupcake the Kelpie would have been awesome for a girlie ... Not so much for a boy ... Just remember no matter what name you choose, if you plan on doing dog sports, you'll be yelling it in public a fair bit. True I sometimes get funny comments about Kaos's name but I like it and have no problem calling it out in public

From what I've heard talking to other Kelpie people, gender isn't so much of an issue. I have a friend who is now a WKC reg breeder and who runs her dogs together and has no problems with the males, but sometimes with the females. The safest is generally one of each though. I am still deciding what gender I will get next (Zoe, female, 11 years, Diesel, male, nearly 7 years, Kaos, male, 4 years) and my current thought is another male. However, I would also space my dogs out more, as I think issues are more likely if the dogs are close together in age . I would do minimum 2 years apart.

I see the show occasionally when I am somewhere that has pay TV. I agree with this

You don't have an option for NO!

different breeds, different personalities etc. Some dogs will always be more active and boisterous than others. Doesn't mean they have to be lunatics though - you can teach them that there is a time and a place.

Depends on genetics - temperament of parents and of pup + amount of socialisation. For some pups this may not be a problem and even if fearful you may be able to overcome, other pups it could be a disaster and temperament problems for the dog's life. ETA: in the NDTF course critical socialisation period was stated up to 16 weeks.

I wouldn't feed the pup from a bowl for a while - start with tossing the food and make the pup come closer to get the food, then only from the owner's hand.

Diesel was on strict crate rest with toilet breaks on lead. The toilet breaks were hard as he tried to run! He had an external fixatur. I did some training games with him so he didn't go completely mental, and he lay on the couch with us to chill. At least it wasn't one of the Kelpies! He ripped up a lot of bedding in his crate

What about some shaping? Are you allowed to do that with Guide Dog pups? That would give her something to do and keep her mind busy and prevent her going stir crazy while not being overly active. I remember when Diesel broke his leg at 6 months old - trying to restrict activity for a 6 month GSD is not easy

Ok have been searching YouTube . . . Found this example of teaching attention using Koehler method. Seems pretty accurate to the method from what I know and have seen. What I notice the most is that the trainer is looking for opportunities to correct (and when one doesn't present itself he waits the dog out til the dog gets bored to create an opportunity to correct). Also note the dog's body language and energy level. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aCmvI6LwMpQ I like methods like clicker training for attention where you look for opportunities to reward instead of opportunities to correct. And they also look so happy and excited when training with a clicker.

From what I have seen of Koehler method, it is about suppressing drive, I don't think it would be that compatible with training in drive. Of course you want your dog to be able to LLW regardless of what sport you participate in (since no one wants their arms ripped off when out walking), I'm just not sure I would use Koehler to teach it for a competition dog.

As I said I think it makes more sense to train with your end goal in mind, so I don't see why you would start by teaching pet style relaxed walking/heeling and then try to get a competition heel later - looks like more work and you would have to overcome some of your previous training. And from what I have seen in SchH training so far I have seen them start with drive training as a pup and start as they wish to continue. Like with competition obedience, many people train their dogs to a higher level than they are currently competing in.

OK sorry I should have said from what I have seen and can tell and from the research I have done there is a strong move towards training in drive within Schutzhund :D Having seen Koehler style training I don't feel it would produce the more flashy obedience I have seen in Schutzhund, and certainly the clubs I have been to use drive training and toy rewards.. And one thing I totally agree with is train with your end goal in mind.

Actually, as far as I know, Schutzhund dogs are trained in drive, NOT using Koehler Certainly one thing I have learned about competition obedience (even if I haven't given SchH a go) is that you can't start out training pet style obedience/loose leash walking and progress to competition heeling without some difficulty. It is much better and easier to get the competition focus and style from the beginning. ETA: This would be a more constructive way of teaching Schutzhund obedience from the start rather than starting with leash corrections I am not saying SchH people do not use leash corrections (as I know they do) but they certainly do not start with Koehler.

I think a SV would be perfect. Exercise requirements--they're apparently happy on 30 minutes a day with play time as well but they can go for longer. They're not particularly heavy shedders and you're right, they're very robust dogs. A Swedish Vallhund is definitely too big for a 10 year old to carry

I've seen Koehler type training. Can it produce good loose leash walking - sure. Good competition style heeling and focus - No.

Not sure I'd be recommending a Min Pin or Chi to someone with 3 children, one of whom is quite young, and who have a boisterous Boxer. Neither breed is particularly robust or able to handle rough handling from a child or large dog.

I had a Schipperke when I was about that age. Was not as dog savvy then, neither were my parents. OK the dog had a poor recall and was not particularly well trained (unfortunately I was not allowed to bring it to Australia with me when we moved, not my choice as the child). But he was great fun, got along with 4 kids no worries.

I find Staffies pulling more difficult than GSDs because they are built like bricks, very powerful with a low centre of gravity. Certainly as a vet nurse having to restrain a dog for a procedure, I would choose a taller leggier breed over a brick any day!

Schipperke?

There are several ways to train tracking, depending on what your goal is and how pedantic you want to be about the dog following the track. I have done a little footstep tracking where you place food in the footsteps

Just to clarify - my post was about undesirable behaviours, not herding behaviours per se. I posted the common problem behaviours that herding breeds can develop that I thought the OP was interested in

Interestingly the top level agility trainers don't use physical corrections Top level as in world level or club level here???. Most use E Collars nowdays if you research it WORLD level. I am going to see Susan Garrett next month, top WORLD level agility competitor. Has several DVDs out, many great innovative ideas on training weaves etc NO physical corrections. Mostly shaping. Some use of NRM. I am sure agility trainers don't use ecollars - why would they?

I think you would know by now if your dog was exhibiting behaviours that are going to cause you problems. Behaviours which you would look for: * chasing things that move such as kids, joggers, other animals, bikes, scooters, motorbikes, cars * barking at moving things * stalking people, other animals In all breeds, there are dogs with more or less energy, 'drive' and instinct. Most of the time, you can pick the really energetic dogs from the time they are young puppies (this is how breeders try to match puppies with the right homes, by knowing what to look for in temperament traits). From the sounds of it you are doing well and have a pup on the calmer end