Kavik

sidoney's Xia (who is from the same breeder as Kaos) has enormous ears There are certainly Kelpies out there with decent radar dishes on their heads!

And because I can

Kaos's ears probably went up around 5 months, Zoe's took a bit longer (her ears are bigger and thinner.). At 4 months, I wouldn't worry

Go Tim The coolest Corgi I've Met!

Kaos - working line Kelpie

Here are my lot. Zoe - Kelpie X

A handling system is the combination of your body language and hand signals etc that help to direct the dog around the course. Your cues for front crosses (changing sides and direction by crossing in front of the dog), rear crosses (changing sides and direction by crossing behind the dog) as well as for handling other challenges such as serpentines, pull throughs, how you handle lead outs, distance, coming to the handler or turning away, all these things and more are included in your handling system. There are a couple of main styles of handling systems that have been developed by well known trainers overseas. One of which is the Greg Derrett/Susan Garrett system, the other is often known as the Awesome Paws Handling System developed by Linda Mecklenberg and also used by Ronda Carter. The main differences from what I can understand is in their lead outs when there is a turn/front fross near the start, some turning signals, how they train rear crosses. Here is Greg Derrett's page http://www.gtagility.com/ Here is Susan Garrett's page http://www.clickerdogs.com/ Linda Mecklenburg's page http://www.awesomepaws.us/

I recognise those Greyhound zoomies :p I train with her There are also several Staffy crosses competing in Sydney, with Masters titles, that are little pocket rockets! One (who is owned by someone on DOL ) came 3rd in JDoY this year behind two working dogs.

I've entered one Gamblers run and qualified If you walk your course well you can do it by making up a nice course and not have to run past obstacles or confuse the dog, at least in Novice. We do distance quite well so that wasn't my main concern We have gotten the distance most times in Open Jumping and Open Agility but have yet to get a qually!

Apart from "How did you choose which dogs to breed?" I seriously doubt buyers would ask any of those questions Steve. Or be able to interpret the answers. I am researching atm (though a while away yet before I get one) - I am after something reasonably specific. I go by word of mouth, talking to as many people in the breed and who own the breed as possible, as well as many people who know what I am looking for in my next dog. I haven't gone to the point of talking to individual breeders yet, just getting a feel for what is out there and who I might look into in more depth. I would probably explain to the breeder what I am looking for, and then see how it progresses from there. Not sure what specific questions I would ask apart from that.

Nice work Luke and Barkly!

I purposely bought ADAA spaced weavers as I figure they cope better with having to lengthen to do the ANKC ones than having to shorten to do ADAA ones.

4 on the floor teaches a drop on the ground at the bottom of the A-Frame http://www.cleanrun.com/index.cfm?fuseacti...p;ParentCat=222

Go the Pyr Sheps and Beauceron! On my list if they make it to Oz :nahnah:

I think the competition is a good point. Also in Europe where you need to place to progress instead of just needing to get a clear round under course time to qualify. Tighter requirements and tough competition would lead to better training and an emphasis on faster times.

I have a 3 year old. No way would I allow him to feed my dogs, he is just too silly and just a typical 3 year old. I get him to stand behind an imaginary line in the kitchen where he can watch me feed them but not apporach. I feed the dogs in their crates, one at a time, get them to look at me before I feed them. My son is not allowed to approach them until they are finished and I have removed the bowls. None of my dogs are food aggressive with people, I am just being safe and careful. When he gets older and can understand and follow directions better he will be allowed to give simple commands etc and tricks for treats, but he is too young now. ETA: for now he is taught how to pat them nicely and knows their names and goes for walks with them, get kisses, runs around with them at the park etc

Love it!

I've never heard of him before.

The times I have boarded the dogs and one has put on weight while there (Zoe is a gutz!) I halved her food intake. I am a hardarse and have no problem doing that :D It works too along with plenty of exercise

I am going the whole 5 days as auditor Should be AWESOME! I can't wait! Been having multiple discussions on what to bring including food with the person I am sharing a room with :D I have also heard she is quite tough on people with working spots. I have not done the prerequisites for a working spot so only auditing.

Outside with the hose. Normally once a month. They are overdue for one - I am waiting for some decent weather! Everytime I think about giving them a bath it rains.

I would either teach stand and sit at the same time or stand first. I have seen some dogs that are highly rewarded for sit and not taught stand til later have a real problem with it and will always try to sit.

I would also look into Click to Calm. I found with this method that Zoe also became more responsive and became more interested in focus and the rewards in the face of arousal when previously she would not focus for rewards when faced with the same situation. Also I would look at avoiding situations that are going to cause such high arousal. So until they are able to get her attention when a dog is excited nearby, I would certainly avoid situations where dogs are likely to get in her face or snap at her. That may mean giving her more space from other dogs at obedience, not hanging around the gates talking to people at obedience etc, not going to dog parks. Otherwise you are setting the dog up to fail. I wouldn't try to go too fast don't try to progress to being around highly exciteable dogs in only a few sessions, it takes time.

I have taught 2o2o but these are the running contact methods I know of: Rachel Sanders Box Method This is the method being discussed in the other thread using a box they are taught to pounce in and out of and jumps for ground gridwork before placing the box on the A-Frame. Reliable Running A-Frames DVD http://www.cleanrun.com/index.cfm?fuseacti...p;ParentCat=222 Sylvia Trkman's method Starting using a plank on the ground, getting the dog to run the whole way along the plank without jumping off, gradually increasing the angle. http://silvia.trkman.net/ Ali Roukas-Canova's method Uses a foot target they are taught to pounce on with both front feet. Lots of groundwork with the foot target using other obstacles before placing on equipment, also use of a hoop for them to run under on the equipment to gain speed and confidence on the equipment without needing to worry about them jumping off while you train the target separately. http://www.cleanrun.com/index.cfm?fuseacti...p;ParentCat=222

I have a Blackdog martingale for Kaos for agility. I like it as it gives me more control than a flat collar and can be quickly and eaily done and undone by a buckle for competition and runs in training (he runs nude in agility). I do keep his quite tight, it can't slip over his head. It is not fiddly.