Kavik

I think any way you teach a stopped contact you need to teach the dog how to get its body in the right position - weight shift, balance, how to slow down etc, or they will not know how to stay on the obstacle in that position (with say your example of the target with food on top.) If you just put that at the bottom of the obstacle, if you haven't done any work on a plank or stairs or at least the bottom of the obstacle where they have to figure out how to get into and stay into position they are likely to not know how to stick the position and will come off.

OK this is going to sound really obvious but have you tried throwing treats in the crate and just leaving him be to see if he will go in there and get them? Then maybe put his dinner in there. Leave the door opened. Don't say anything to him, don't watch him too much, just be casual about it? ETA: Obviously have the other dog somewhere else so no chance of resource guarding or interference.

I used a target, got the behaviour I wanted on the target, moved to end of plank, once he was doing it reliably on plank, get rid of target and on stimulus control/cue. Then on end of equipment. I am still working with plank as he is not as independent as I would like, especially going ahead of me to find his position. When putting your 2o2o on the equipment, start with just the end - for the A-Frame get them to go into position from the side instead of the whole obstacle. That should help with teaching them how to get into the right position. Once they can do that, try to get access to a lowered one for a while until they get the hang of it.

You don't need full sized equipment - I don't have space either You can train the behaviour initially on a short board you can make at home (or stairs). Do you know how to train the contact behaviour you would like? When you have the behaviour good on that you can transfer to the end of the equipment. Will your club let you practice on just one piece of equipment for your turn instead of a sequence? What does your club suggest you do about contacts?

Have you tried training a specific contact behaviour?

Schipperke?

JRT?

I saw a litter of mals on youtube that were fawn/black and also brindle??? Maybe crossed with a dutch shepherd (is this permtted?) although they called them malinois puppies? KNPV sometimes cross Malinois and Dutch Shepherds and call the tan ones Mals and the brindles Dutchies Staranais, Mals are on my list but yeah they only come in shades of the same colour so I didn't mention them

I have colour preferences but other things are more important. Kelpies I prefer black/tan or red/tan, black is OK but cream is growing on me. Not that interested in the dilutes (blue and fawn) and not sure about solid red/chocolate. GSD I prefer sable or black (have a bi-colour). Since I am mostly interested in working lines, and my colour preferences are the most common in working lines, I doubt I would have a problem finding a suitable dog in my preferred colours.

Mine can be noisy off course but are silent on course during agility.

Mine are not reserved with people - they love to visit strangers for a pat

Great vids Peppi was being very good about being mistaken for a sheep Can't wait to meet her

I've only had Kelpies so can't really compare. Loves working things out and shaping, can be a bit cheeky, has given me the finger a few times at agility (start lines mostly - I wanted him to sit but he wanted to stand, so he stands ) but I think pretty biddable, he wants to do the right thing on course, doesn't try to make up his own.

The problem is not that your dog is too fast - don't ever let anyone tell you that! You just need to improve your handling :D

Gibson looks a lot like my previous dog Belle :D who was also Cocker Spaniel X we think Kelpie (she was black though - but very similar looking). She was vey smart

Against the wall in the kitchen, near the back door. The two smaller ones under a table (that is used to house my doggy paraphernalia ) and the big one next to the table.

Foundaion work exercises

From what I've read on here from successful Dally owners in sports they would not be as easy to train or keep focussed as the other breeds mentioned

Good working dogs have an off switch I think a pointer type might suit you - GSP or Vizsla are my favs. I know many that are successful agility dogs, they are a gundog type which you seem to like, can handle rough play from a Lab. My Kelpie will play rough with my GSD but not any other dog - he is not keen on in your face Labs, and he is a big boy at 20kgs, a smaller Kelpie could be injured with body slams. ETA: My working line Kelpie has a much better off switch than my rescue Kelpie X, much better temperament too.

I separate when I train (others in crate or inside/outside depending on where I am training) that way I can concentrate on the one dog and it is not confusing for them. Things you can train: Nose touch your hand Nose touch target Bow Pick up/hold object Go to mat Walk backwards Shake there are so many more!

Dutch Shepherd

Are there any differences in build between paddock and yard dogs or it is all about the temperament?

Good idea dasha, trials would give me a good opportunity to see the differences. I have been to a yard trial, might try to get to another and a 3 sheep.

I would crate the lame Kelpie and only toilet on lead. You can carry her down the steps. I would walk the other dog and keep the Kelpie at home.

Thanks for the obserations, it is very interesting Definitely getting working line, WKC bred dog. Kaos is Avenpart and he is the best dog I have owned :D May well go back there again. I realised I don't know that much about the different types of working Kelpies, bloodlines, breeders etc, so thought I would research and look at other breeders/lines before making my choice for the next dog, which is still a while away.