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tether him on his mat via a leash attached around a heavy furniture leg or the like, or if you're inclined, install a tie point to attach the lead to. This way he can't get on the couch but can still get up and move about and interact a bit on and around his mat. Make sure his mat is extra big and comfy. Some people will suggest a crate I'm sure, but who the hell wants to sit on the couch and look at their dog in a cage

When you look at the sky tonight, you might notice an extra little star shining brightly.

You're not being silly at all to worry over your dog possibly escaping the yard. She has proven she can jump pretty well. I'm sorry I don't really have any more advice. I'm lucky to have a lazy slug layabout of a dog who actually kinda likes being home on his own! He just spent half an hour racing after a ball obsessed kelpie x at the dog park in the dark. He had no hope in heck of getting the ball off her, so he just ran next to her and let her growl and snitch over her ball. He doesn't get to play with many dogs so it was a bit of a treat for him. He is thoroughly knackered now.

Yeah that's the sort of thing. Can the inside of the gate be covered with a whole sheet of ply or something so that it is smooth with no grippy bits? Assuming it's high enough, a smooth cover should do the trick. The only issue sometimes if you cover up a gate/fence that the dog can see through, they may start jumping on it to try to see over it.

A fence top roller might be an effective and reasonably priced deterrent.

In this case it is very wise the OP is very much concerned with colour. We've all groaned at the current trend for blues and the health consequences that can go with them. Good on the OP for at least trying to understand what is good practice for the sake of the breed.

Attachment behind the head may apply pressure in a way that send a message to the dog, a bit like a bitch grabbing her pups on the scruff to discipline them or scruffing a dog. I know with the type of grooming tether I use 'The Groomers Helper" is designed that if the dog backs up it applies pressure to the back of the neck, which sends an authoritative message to the dog without me having to manhandle it. It is very effective to calm dogs down without having to use a terse verbal or physical correction via me. I can let the dog figure it out for itself and usually only takes one or two attempts from the dog and then it stands quietly, without me having to touch it, so doesn't associate me with discipline, then I can work on praising the better behaviour. So that's one thing that the rear clipping ones might be working on.

Yep other have said it mostly. The two I had were skittish, nervy, unpredictable energiser bunnies. The dog I had I was going to show but he could barely tolerate to be touched by anyone, so he went to a breeder in Melbourne, who did show and breed him, but had a lot more experience with them than I had at the time. The bitch was pts eventually due to her completely twisted temperament!

Not a dog I'd recommend to a novice dog owner. Tell me why so HW so i can add it to my own breed research, I'll come back later when I have time. I 'boarded' 2 Mannies for over a year and personally they're not a dog I'd recommend to anyone! Let alone a first timer!

My dog door has a strong magnet on it that brings the door back to closed position......because leaving doors open or a hole in a door........snakes! (Plus flies and other creepy crawlers, yuk) I know a determined snake could probably push the flap but a strong magnetic flap is much better than nothing. I can/ have to accept snakes outside my house......but will prevent them entering my house at any cost!

I had my doggy door installed in my security screen door. This way I can wedge the timber internal door fully open against the wall inside, and leave the locked screen door with the doggy door. I have a 1.2 mtr baby gate at the entrance to the laundry bathroom toilet area so when I go out I close the baby gate and I know he can come and go through the doggy door, but not access the whole house. When I am home I open the baby gate. I install d some Perspex on the internal surface of the screen door, minus the doggy door area, so that in all weather it' isn't letting heat/cold in/out, just light in/out! With a big dog a split barn door with a top / Botton half might work

Although upsetting to you , a dog with a few scars can certainly be shown, and successfully. If the dog is top shelf no judge worth anything would penalise a few small scars, especially if you very briefly mention that your dog was the victim of a dog attack. If you make a big deal of the scars and draw attention to them they will become a big deal. Just show the dog and let his real qualities shine above the scars. As for the mental scars, again, me mindful of your dogs experience, but make every effort to move past it asap. You might serve your dog best by turning to a professional trainer for advice.

No not really any more than many other breeds. The coated Chow has a medium length double coat which means they retain most of their coat until you shed it out manually with a brush, as opposed to the shorter double coats which just shed off everywhere. A good brush once a week and a trip to the groomer about every 8 to 12 weeks (or more frequently if affordable and desirable) and you really should not suffer with hair more than most other short to medium thick and double coat breeds. The advantage of the longer softer coat on the Chow is that shedding hairs are easily removed from clothes and furnishings with a rolling action of a damp hand, whereas the very short coats like the Dobe and G.Pinscher for example, are like needles that poke into the fabrics and are more difficult to remove! the Chow is impeccably clean in its personal habits and has a quiet laid back contemplative almost meditative outlook on life. They are deep thinkers and don't need loads of mental stimulation and training to be happy. Infact they avoid it if possible! The Chow is a very unique type of dog. They are not fussy needy dogs, but will be your best friend and most loyal companion. They are well suited to apartment and small home living. A breed that I think you can find pretty much everything you want. The Chow is a very undemanding breed. Regarding the German Pinscher, I would believe they would be a breed that would thrive with a lot of mental stimulation, training and exercise and may become bored and destructive without it.

Ps the chow is a lot like a giant cat in a dog suit......

Do Chows tend to alert bark blinkblink? I've only met two that I can think of and can't recall either of them making any noise (not that that's bad!). They weren't on their home territory though at the time. They are lovely dogs. No they are not generally into displaying their intentions. They will notice everything going on in their environment and will absolutely step up if they feel they need to. They are one breed that needs no training at all to be a dependable protector and guardian, it comes naturally to them. Unlike a lot of the traditional guard breeds that will display and bark, the Chow will lay quietly and wait and see. They are certainly not everyone's perfect dog, but I think the Chow would be highly suitable to the OP situation. It may take a bit of effort to meet some breeders and get a handle on the breed, but I believe it would be very worth the effort. They are not particularly difficult as puppies even. Now I want another one !

I still think the Chow Chow is one you should look at. You won't see loads of recs for them because most people don't know much about them, haven't met them or spent time around them. They are around the size of an Amstaff, are independent and content with their own company, ridiculously easy to house train, not particularly destructive, quiet and pretty low energy, loyal to the end and innately protective of you and yours. People say they are stubborn but it depends what you want from a dog. If you want a smart busy dog obeying commands and showing off tricks, you'll find a Chow stubborn. But if you want a calm steady dog that knows itself and doesn't feel the need to display to the world, the Chow is perfect.

Take a look at Chow Chow Personally I think they tick your boxes with the exception of coat maintenance, but a weekly brush and a bi monthly trip to the groomer should be all that is needed. They do come in a 'smooth' coat variety too but they shed as much or more. Having lived with Chows I think you might find everything you're looking for there.

Totally from a different angle knowing nothing about the pound system over there, or the ownership situation......but do you know how she entered the pound system. As in, was she picked up as a stray off the streets by a ranger, brought in by a member of the public as a found stray, or is there a chance she might have actually been surrendered. That sounds out of character from what you've said, but is it possible to find out how she came into the system ? I hope the outcome is positive for all concerned.

I just wanted to say thanks moosmum for your postings here. I always very much enjoy your posts.

you might just have to go with fingers crossed! I actually get a bit excited when I see some breeds with nice coarse jackets and coats. It seems like today we want nice soft fluffy hair on all our dogs and forget what some were bred for and how the coats really should be. Collies and shelties with a nice strong harsh protective guard coat, Poodles with a nice strong steel wool coat, Beardies with a good coarse stringy coat etc etc. They seem to be all about soft and fluffy these days!

Hmm the mange and subsequent treatment may have done the damage. Thats at a time when caot change is looming, first season might be on the way, rapid growth happening, a lot of stress already on the body and coat around that age. Add the mange and it might have just stressed the coat development. If the coat was stressed by anything during development it may take a long time to recover, or never recover. Do you use topical flea treatments? i have seen a few dogs have coat damage from them. If you do, and you can find an oral alternative such as Comfortis/Panoramis that might be worth a shot. Of course any thing you change or try may take weeks if not months to yield any real change. By real change I mean permanent change as the coat renews as opposed to products momentarily changing the texture. To maybe attract some breed specific interest You might want to go back to your original post, click on the edit tab at the bottom, and change the title of the thread to say 'Anatolian with stubborn dry coat' or such.

To be honest I'd stop with the product overload and just wash with a normal shampoo and conditioner every 2 to 6 weeks as you do now. Wash, blow dry, brush, leave it. I would not be putting sprays and treatments on after the bath. You need a chance to get to know this coat without product. I honestly think by looking at it that you're not going to change the texture with products. All you can do is feed and groom to promote healthy coat growth, which you're doing ok with by the sounds of it. Just drop all the extra product as it may be doing more harm than good,. I reckon if it's ever going to change it will come with the natural cycle of the coat as the dog ages. I find they go from puppy coat to adult coat, but then get a sort of third coat change as they mature through three or so yrs old. To me it looks more like a stressed coat. Is there any illness or medication in the dogs history, right from birth? And have you used a coat King or furminator on it at all in the past? Those things are murder on coats. I try to describe the damage they do as like running ribbon over scissors to curl it. You get micro damage on the edges or the hair that leaves it looking all frazzled. Only time can fix that kind of damage properly with coat drop and regeneration of entirely new hairs. And don't use a heated dryer if you are turn the heat off and just use the force of the air to get the water out of the coat.

The area I circled looks like damaged coat, the rest looks healthy just coarse. The coat looks a little blown to me and might look better with more undercoat development, but with an entire dog the coat will cycle as you know and you just have to wait for it.

And one more.....

Here you go