Kez

So I have ruled out Penn hip (thankyou; your comment was echoed by many others I spoke to). Is there a reason why one scorer may be different to another?

Potential stud. He has his CH and as our breed has a limited gene pool, if he passes his health tests then he becomes another option for breeders. If he doesn’t pass then he isn’t an option. His sister(s) have bred on well, but he is the only male (I think) from his damline that is still entire (he is by an imported sire). I see that there are three different choices for having the images read (OFAA). Now I am wondering if there is any difference in who reads the images?

I am getting hips and elbows done soon, on an older dog (6 year old). Anyhow, I was reading this old topic, and wondered if people’s perceptions of the two types of hip scoring have changed in eight years? Additional Question for the experienced: What, if any, considerations should be taken when scoring an older dog?

Only quick suggestion I can make, is get crates for the 3 dogs, and begin crate training. At least then you will know that all 3 of them are safe (from all sorts of dangers, and each other), and that the rest of your house will also be safe

Gotta love those generalisations, eh! I had JRT's for over 15 years, and I always reckoned that "mini fox terriers" were the snappy & growly ones... That was IMO, and so my own generalisation. Another thing that bugged me was that the "foxy jrt" cross was VERY common, but people would say "he's a jack russell" (or JR cross) rather than a "foxy" or "foxy cross". (The "snipey" head was the giveaway for me). Kaffy, JRT's are definitely quite intelligent - most terriers are, which is why they can sometimes be such a challenge to train. The flip-side to having such intelligence, is that they don't just think they're so smart, they know they are (and therefore think they're above everyone else)

Common misconception... Parvovirus can last a long time in the environment, perhaps as long as 9 months or so. Parvo is shed for the first two weeks or less after infection in the stool of an infected dog but only a tiny portion of infected stool (which could be months old depending on the environmental temperature and humidity) is needed to infect a non-immune dog. Every nine days or so, the antibody levels in a puppy drops by half. It's when the antibody level drops to a certain level, that the pup no longer has enough antibodies to protect them - if they are exposed to a large enough number of viral particles, they will get infected. Canine Adenovirus (canine hepatitis) can be transmitted via direct contact, contaminated objects such as hands, surfaces, clothing, etc., droplet (nasal discharge/urine), and aerosol spread. Leptospirosis/Leptospira bacteria are passed through the urine of infected animals including dogs, wildlife, rodents, and livestock. The bacteria can enter through a break in the skin or when infected urine is ingested. Outbreaks of Leptospirosis infections occur frequently after periods of heavy rain, as the bacteria can be found in standing water, rivers, streams, and ponds. Canine distemper virus is most often transmitted through contact with respiratory secretions. Contact with the urine and fecal material of infected dogs can also result in infection. Canine parainfluenze transmission is usually through airborne respiratory secretions (coughing or sneezing) from an infected dog, but infection can also occur through direct "nose-to-nose" contact or through contaminated hands, dishes, shoes/boots etc. So basically, taking a dog/pup that doesn't have immunity anywhere where other dogs (or dog owners) have walked, can be a risk. It is probably thought to be a small risk, until you become one of the "minority" who has a pup seriously affected by an infection.

I know it's OT, but this is my favourite "PETA video" Link to video

Anyone in Eastern suburbs Melbourne (or near enough to Dandenong), check out Dandenong West Pet Food Supplies @ 110 Hemmings St Or phone Rob on (03) 9791 7498 I get my Eaglepack Power (18 kg bag) for HEAPS cheaper than anywhere else Rob might be able to ask his supplier if he can get the type you're looking for (that's what he did for me) - and you might be surprised at how much cheaper it could be.

I know of at least 3 people who had the vaccinations done up to 2 years old, and didn't bother with a booster at 3 years... They're all from different areas, and all 3 ended up with their dogs contracting Canine Hepatitis... I don't know if it's related, but the same 3 people also ended up with "Fading Puppy Syndrome" killing off every litter they had over the following 12 months. I think the need for yearly vaccination boosters, really depends on how much exposure there is to possibly infected/carrier dogs.

Ring Bayer and explain your problem - they will send you some FREE replacement packets so you can re-treat your dogs ;)

Where do you buy your EPP from Kez? I bought a bag from PS Cranny and it sure was not that price!! Are you paying more or less than $80? (I actually pay $79.90, btw) I used to get the Breeder bags of EPP, but where I live makes it difficult to get... So I get the 15 kg bag at the equivalent "cents per kilogram" rate. Depending on the number of dogs you have, you might be able to give Anthony a call at EaglePack & see if you can get the Breeder Bags direct (rather than through PS) - You would have to be purchasing a mimimum amount or be in an area where they'd already be delivering though. I'm dreading the thought that I mightn't be able to keep the same deal when I move

I use EaglePack now, but used to use Supercoat... no problems with smell or runny poop (although there was certainly more of it compared to what I find now with Eagle Pack)... The worst I found for soft MOUNTAINOUS poop (and dirty kennels) was Coprice Working dog. ;)

4 active greyhound bitches - all are between 26 and 29 kg's... Bag of EaglePack Power - $80, lasts approximately 2 weeks = $40 per week Beef mince - $1.60/$2.30 per kg, one kg per day = $11.20/$16.10 per week Dog biscuits - $35, lasts a bit over a month = $8 per week Known total is $60-$65 per week for 4 highly active dogs = $15-$16 per week each The two different beef mince prices are because it depends on where I buy it - the place just around the corner is more expensive, but it works out cheaper than if I had to do a special trip out of town to get it from the other place Plus anything else I add to the meals such as minor supplements that might be needed as shown on the latest blood test or other signs I look for etc., so all up it might be $20 per week per dog ;)

I use Megaderm - works a treat in bringing up dogs that have rough or puppy coats, and gets rid of the dandruff on the black dogs ;)

I know the Jack Russell Terrier Club of Australia often have "Lure racing" at the local Agricultural shows :rolleyes: Netti if you're a member of a local breed club with your dogs (or an obedience club), you might want to "start your own" as a demonstration, since the Agi show season is almost starting