ness

I made some cheap jumps using broomsticks cut in half with nails in the bottom and then jump cups attached . Does the job. You could even make a cheap set of weaving poles this way as well.

CC all the ones I listed above are delta certified trainers. It might also be worth emailing Deb Millikan as I am sure she would be able to provide a recommendation (her email addy is on the canine behavioral school website). ETA: Not sure if these guys do Puppy Pre-School but pretty certain they are delta trainers - http://www.banjosdogtraining.com/

You could check out any of these - they are all recommendations from the canine behavioral school page (http://positivelydogs.com/faq/) Adelaide Hills Animal Hospital – Bodil Schou-Hansen & Debra Millikan 77 Mount Barker Road Stirling, SA 5152 Phone: 08 8339 4466 Email: [email protected] Fax: 08 8339 4476 Puppy Pre-School is held on Wednesday evenings at 6pm 5 week course, first week without puppies Contact the Hospital to enrol in class Newton Veterinary Centre – Debra Millikan 112 Clairville Road Newton, SA 5074 (opposite Target) Phone: 08 8365 5010 Puppy Pre-School is held on Thursday evenings at 6:15pm 5 week course, first week without puppies Contact the Veterinary Centre to enrol in class Parade Norwood Veterinary Clinic – Bev Clark 27 The Parade Norwood, SA 5067 Phone: 08 8363 5323 Puppy Pre-School is held on Tuesday nights at 7.30pm 4 week course Contact the Clinic to enrol in class Stephens Terrace Veterinary Clinic – Bodil Schou-Hansen & Susanne Eckert 45 Stephens Terrace St Peters, SA 5069 Phone: 08 8362 6688 Fax: 08 8363 4008 Puppy Pre-School is held on Wednesday and Thursday evenings at 7.15pm 5 week course, first week without puppies Contact Clinic to enrol in class

Nawwwww so cute Ptolomy

Jo I would still try contacting Deb or Canine Behavioral School. She may be able to recommend somebody else. Some of the trainers there also run other private classes.

Hi Jo, Steve's TOT program and the information on his website is a good resource so you can't go wrong with that but if you wanted more hands on assistance then I would definitely consider SnT's recommendation of Canine Behavioral School. Its not that I am anti other training methods but that would be my recommendation for new puppy owners in the state at the moment. Especially if you want to belong to a club that focuses on producing well mannered pets. All the trainers there are extremely knowledgeable and I know the head trainer puts a lot of emphasis on ensuring the instructors are trained appropriately.

I have been trialling my young girl on a rose-hip supplement which is suppose to be a natural anti-inflammatory. http://rosehipvitalcanine.com.au/ The results in humans of the human version of the product are pretty convincing. Its not especially cheap though but they do have a facebook page and it might be worth contacting them to see about the product. Its identical to the human version though and the price isn't so bad if you get it from somewhere like the discount chemist warehouse. It may be worth looking into. Its not going to be a short-term fix though and like the glucosamine may take a while to work. If you want further information you can always ring them. They have been more then happy to chat about the product.

Hmm I have a copy Whitka - might be willing to sell it as its not of any use to me anymore.

I retired my oldie from agility (who is now 12.5) when she gained her final leg towards her last open title. She was 10 or so at the time. I saw no reason to risk her in a high impact activity for the sake of it week in week out. She still enjoyed it. She still enjoyed coming to training and running short sequences but I guess to me you do resort to looking after their bodies. She isn't retired from life. She would still get twice daily off-lead walks/runs. Trips to the beach. Lots of swimming. Little bits of training at home. She is still a sound 12.5 year old and has no real physical limitations. I have seen many young dogs injured doing performance activities and see no reason to subject my oldie to that risk. She enjoyed it but she didn't live for it as some other dogs do. We then started with tracking and she has her first two tracks completed towards her TD title and gained her novice Rally-O title in 3 straight trials. I may dust her off and give her a go in Advance this year.

I would also say if your heart is set on something like a border collie what about looking for a young adult rehome (something that hasn't quite made the grade for showing purposes) but has a temperament (and energy level) that is well established. Or what about considering something like an aussie?

One comment re the clip and a coated breed. I don't find the DT harness especially easy to undo/do up because of the clip and getting hair caught. I suspect the Julius would be a similar issue as it looks to be a similar design. No such issue with the comfortflex because the clip is located on top of the velcro strap :laugh:.

My vote would probably be a comfortflex harness . Clean Run still have them on free shipping too. http://www.cleanrun.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=1771&ParentCat=449 If you would rather something a little sturdier then you could also look at something like a DT harness from K9Pro. http://www.k9pro.com.au/products/Dog-Harness-DT-FUN.html

Hugs PA - I have just sent you a PM but my heart goes out to you. It sucks when you put so much time and effort into surgery and then post-surgery rehab to find it doesn't all go according to plan. Even harder when they are only a young dog.

Fair enough - just sounded like you were putting a lot of pressure on yourself and that in itself is destined to see it end badly from my experience and from watching others compete. As far as distractions go have you thought about training outside the local shops/outside the local sports oval/outside the local school yard. They are a few suggestions I have given to some of my country friends in the past. Any place where dogs are allowed is a possible training location. Especially if you want to work on paying attention in heel position around distractions.

Paddles - to me it sounds like your possibly setting the dog up for failure by trialling at this stage. Maybe you need to take a step back and work on his motivation and maybe just go along and watch the trial. Have you tried using all his food for training and not feeding him out of a bowl at all to increase his food drive? Have you built up the distraction level gradually? I would use whatever the dog finds most rewarding - for my two they are both different one loves to tug and the other loves food. Sorry not meant as criticism I know what its like to feel like you want to rush to trialling but I have also seen people get very disheartened trialling dogs who are not ready. Its not a race to get in the ring its about doing something that is fun and your dog enjoys - if your still struggling when you train then its only likely to be worse with the added pressure of a trial. Have you done any mock trials through a club?

For the slighter smaller dogs the people on the ortho lists rave about the Ruff wear Webmaster harness's for post-op so would be one consideration if you wanted a support harness. http://www.ruffwear....aster-Harness_2

I do it both ways. At breakfast time they normally walk first and then get breakfast when we get home. In the evening they are normally fed first and walked later especially when its hot.

I have the same question as huski - how much mental and physical activity is he getting and is it adequate for his drive level? Yes you can teach an off-switch but I don't believe its possible for a dog to always be off without having an adequate outlet. I have a dog who has taken to pacing and won't settle at home but has been somewhat forced into that position due to an unfortunate set of circumstances which prevent her from gaining adequate drive satisfaction over an extended period of time. She was much more settled when her physical and mental needs were able to be met.

Good news dancinbcs - glad to hear the product is working for Angus.

I would probably keep working on building up to sending her through all 12 with you on the right and left and not following behind. A little like you might proof jumping skills - remove yourself from the equation and then start adding in things like you moving away on her current strong side and then trying to build the same proofing into the other side. Sounds like she is doing well though .

Thought I would bump this thread and say while Kenz is still having some issues I do think the product is helping.

I still think maybe a closed jackpot container might work ok so long as you race her to the end and open it quickly :). I would quite happily rely solely on food if the dog was motivated by it. Especially as far as obedience is concerned. Its very easy to find somewhere to jackpot your dog with a food reward after they have finished in the ring whereas its more complicated if you have a toy motivated dog because people seem to take offense at tugging or playing with your dog. Having said that I have one of each. My problem is my seriously tug motivated dog is no longer allowed to tug (at least not yet ).

Clean Run Ready Treat - http://www.cleanrun.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=2139

Reckon your cheapest solution RS would be to have a nice well meaning friend to assist :laugh:. Honestly I am not super convinced on the whole building value for a reward the dog isn't already keen on. I understand people do it buy why not work with what your dogs strengths are. How about a throwable bait bag if you want something you can throw containing food.

LOL RS have you tried some of the party trick entries - standing at the far end and sending the dog to get the entry is so much fun :laugh:. Just on the target - useful if you have access to a second person unless you use something like a jackpot container so the dog can't self reward.