blakkjackal

It's good for less active/sick dogs (especially ones that suffer from pancreatitis ^) or dogs that are prone to weight gain, but not really suitable as a main meat for most healthy active dogs. As said above, it's very low in fat and dogs need plenty of fat in their diets as it is their primary source of energy. I feed quite a bit of roo, but add plenty of meats with a higher fat content. I do like it though as it's a great organic game meat and ethically sourced. I'm lucky enough to have a great pet food shop nearby that sells kangaroo for a pretty good price. But then again, I'm not one for advocating feeding just one or two meats, I prefer to feed the widest variety possible. /The article lists heart as offal. While this may be true in classifying organs etc. it doesn't apply to feeding dogs as heart is solid muscle. No restrictions in feeding heart.

Nope, but got a (bad) little video. :) Please do ignore my retardedly heavy breathing and the garage sounding like it's going to collapse. :D

A friend of mine has one for her 3 min pins, they love it. :p As for introducing it, if the dog doesn't show interest in the toy at first try putting it in a horizontal position first and then gradually move it up from there. Helped me a lot when my boy didn't "get" it at first!

It's basically a hanging tug toy set up with a spring in the middle to make the jerks easier on the dog. I got the largest spring I could find from Bunnings (I think it might have been a garage door spring or something similar) and tied a piece of rope on both ends -- one end for a tug toy (or a piece of hide, most dogs prefer that) and the other for hanging the thing off whatever you can think of. Mine is attached to the roof of our shed, but I'd prefer softer ground like grass. Thick tree branches are great and I've seen brilliant spring pole set ups that kind of look like a basketball hoop stand or a kids' swing set frame. Sturdier, in most cases though. The rope between the spring and toy minimises the risk of the dog accidentally grabbing the spring.

With such a young pup if you want to start agility stick to teaching commands and very very basic stuff -- no jumps, climbing etc yet. Also it's best to attend training guided by someone knowledgeable as you'll easily do more harm than good with back yard agility. Depends what you want really, just remember young pups don't need lots of physical exercise yet. Let them do everything at their own pace. :) My dog absolutely loves tugging games and I've set up a spring pole for him, it's good fun. With a pup you'll want them to be able to have all four legs on ground though. If you're interested in weight pulling then that's something that can be started early too, by introducing the harness and getting used to dragging something very lightweight (like a water bottle filled with pebbles) and teaching them different cues. Weight pulling seems to suit bull breeds, a lot of them enjoy it. Same goes for everything really, most sports/training can be started early but everything has to be kept on an appropriate "puppy level". :)

Oatmeal shampoos are generally pretty good. I only bathe dogs when absolutely necessary anyway, I feel like any stripping of the natural oils isn't desirable but of course they need to be washed sometimes. At the moment I've got Pet Head, I think it's the one for sensitive skin. Pretty happy with that one.

I thought the OP had covered up the holes the pup dug. Anyway, I'd probably first make sure no one was getting in or out of the yard, maybe put some pavers along the fence or something, put mesh underground or whatever else you think will work. Then not leave the pup unsupervised and also if she's not enjoying outside time alone maybe keep her inside if that doesn't bother you..

How do other dogs get into the yard? :s I'd be concerned for the safety of the puppy, chained or not, if that was the case. Persephone, valid point but want to clarify how the suburbia changes things if the yard is fenced? Apart from uneducated neighbours...

Or set up a chain spot. A lot cheaper than a kennel run and just as safe.

When I went to the vet about the same matter all they did was sell me some Malaseb and tell me to bathe the dog in it. In my experience vets can be a bit useless when it comes to yeast infections as they'll rather treat it than try to solve the underlying problem. A confirmed diagnosis will never hurt, but in my opinion getting it can be a bit of a waste of money with something as common as yeast (which is exactly what this sounds like to me).

There's a difference between having a dog that's registered with a council and having a pedigree/registered dog from a registered breeder.

It's can easily become a chronic problem so I'd get onto it quickly.. For a quick relief Malaseb works well, but I wouldn't use it for longer periods of time. I've also heard good things about ACV. But most importantly a diet change is probably required, yeast infection thrives on sugars/carbs so try to cut those out of the dog's diet. Also fish oil in fairly high doses seems to help. My dog had pretty yeasty feet for a while, they're finally starting to clear up now. Takes time though. Also! Moisture is BAD, yeast will go crazy if you let moisture sit on the dog. A good towel will be your best friend. If you manage to find Molkosan that's also a good product, you can both feed it and use it as an external aid for wiping the affected areas with.

Seeds won't digest unless you grind them and even ground up they mainly act as fiber absorbing excess liquids.

They'll probably work alright as fiber but there is no notable nutritional value in sunflower seeds (or any kind of seeds really) for dogs. I prefer flaxseed meal though for fiber. If fed without grinding they will definitely pass whole.

Yup. 237 Torrens Rd Croydon West.

There's a lovely pet food shop in Croydon, Adelaide. I get all my kangaroo from there and they stock a whole heap of other stuff too. Super helpful and lovely owner, I always request my meats whole (=not ground) and he's happy to put stuff aside for me whenever I need it. I find the pricing very reasonable too. Their meat quality is excellent, every time I buy I feel like throwing some on my own pan lol. I regularly get beef & lamb hearts, lamb necks and big kangaroo chunks. ...And as an additional bonus my dog gets chicken necks & cuddles every time we go there! :D

Weight bearing bones that came from heavy animals (cow, deer, horse, moose etc.) are very dense and hard, in fact hard enough to break teeth. Mine has lost half his front tooth to a marrow bone, definitely learned my lesson there. I like giving (frozen) lamb necks, they're great for heavy chewers. I would include roo tail as weight bearing bones too. An over-enthusiastic chomper here sustained a slab fracture to a molar from roo tail. Yes completely forgot about roo tails. Very dense indeed. They got some nice meat on them so if I ever got hold of one I'd feed supervised and take it away once the meat was gone. Could do the same with e.g. cow feet but wouldn't feed them bare under any circumstances. Dental work is expensive...

Weight bearing bones that came from heavy animals (cow, deer, horse, moose etc.) are very dense and hard, in fact hard enough to break teeth. Mine has lost half his front tooth to a marrow bone, definitely learned my lesson there. I like giving (frozen) lamb necks, they're great for heavy chewers.

Yep I know plenty of people who do this. Also reduces the chances of random people ruining the commands for you when you pick an unusual language as the second one. :p

My dog "speaks" Finnish. All his commands have been taught in Finnish, but he's picked up on a fair few most commonly used ones (or the ones that people use in English thinking he will understand, e.g. "sit", "stay"). This was actually my partner's idea and he learned the words I use very quickly. Dogs absolutely can learn two commands for one trick but I myself have "saved" the other language for if I ever need to retrain a command. Then I have a fresh cue that is easily remembered by me.

Dogs don't have the same sense of living that we do. We're not taking anything away from them by euthanising, they either exist or they don't and that's the end of it.

Such a selfish and sick thing to do. IMO animals should not be allowed to have wheelchairs. Once they need something like that it's time to go.

Sharp A lmao that's gold.

Oh and also, they don't really tell if their foods contain bone at all. They are using the term "Biologically Appropriate Raw Food" (I'm guessing this means they support the Billinghurst BARF method) but never mention if the rolls contain any bone at all. Bone is important because dogs need calcium, but should not be overfed and in pre-made food mixes it's often hard to tell how much of the meat is actually bone, tendons or other insignificant material.

They're only really mentioning a few key ingredients and I would like to see a detailed list. This isn't really what I'd call one: "Contains all Australian human grade meat ,veges, fruit, whole eggs & other essential nutrients". Or this: "- Meat as the first ingredient - seasonal fresh vegetables & fruit - whole eggs incl. shell - Omega 3 & Omega 6 - natural vitamins and minerals - Glucosamine and Kelp" I would like to know what veggies and fruits etc the product contains and in what quantities. Also the vitamin content is important (as in is it really a complete food, I'd definitely want to see that for myself). Also the source of the omegas is something I'd be interested in seeing written down.