Jed

Desexing only prevents pregnancy. It wont prevent them fighting. The fighting probably increased because of the in season bitch, but the tension and jealousy was always there, I suppose. I wouldn't desex the 13 year old, and if the underdog is desexed, you run the risk that the entire dog who is the boss, will resent the fact that he is different, and pick on him more. It depends on his nature whether he does this or not. It is about management. I have a couple of entire dogs here, and bitches in season. No fights. And previous dogs have had no fights either. They are not a "scrappy" breed, but dogs do tend to fight over bitches in season.

AmandaS I think people buy them because they are readily available, look incredibly cute, and are promoted as pets. what more could a buyer want? Since PDE there does seem to be some resistance to purebred dogs. I often ask owners of these x breds why they bought them, and the answers are interesting. Most who wanted low shedding never heard of bichons, and think poodles are poofy. And they have no idea where to get one. I asked someone once why they went to a pet shop to buy a pup. "Where else would you go?" Registered dogs are unpromoted to the public, and very difficult to source anyhow, so they go with the crosses. And if someone is happy with a breed or cross, they tend to get another one when they need a new dog. That's natural. People often get to know and like a breed through knowing one - and there are a lot of oodle doodles out there to get to know. Additionally, baby oodle doodles are mostly incredibly cute - most look just like teddy bears, with big round eyes and fluffy hair which is very appealing to most people. I don't have a problem with people wanting an oodledoodle - purebreds are hard to find, and if that is what they want, why not? The only thing I have a problem with is the breeding dogs suffering their whole lives. And I have a very big problem with that. Edited because I forgot this. I think it would be much better to encourage registered breeders to breed more pups - those who wanted to - and to promote oodledoodle substitutes to the public. We are well along with most breeds with good health, and anything an oodledoodle has, a purebred has too - but people aren't aware. However, until we get the purebred numbers up to where they were 15 years ago, we can forget it. And I don't believe any decent registered breeder would sell breeding stock for crossbreeding, and without good breeding stock, x bred breeding will never improve. Breeders are so vehement that they will buy any and all adult dogs of their breed advertised on p****** or the local paper to avoid puppy farmers/cross breeders/byb getting their hands on them.

My standard smooth dacshund lived to 23. She ate butchers offcuts, which were the edges of the meat, with some fat, bones, eggs, milk, some table scraps (meat, veges, gravy, roast etc), and some treats, toast and vegemite etc and the occasional fish scraps or a couple of sardines. I think the only supplement she ever had was Pentavite. My boxer lived to 15, on the same diet, but she also had stewed meat and veges and the revolting "all new" dry dog food which was the first on the market. I have 2 x 13 year old Cavaliers, lost one last year at 12.5 from a stroke, and one at 14 from heart failure. They are rarely sick - the 14 year old one never was, the 12.5 had age related dry eye, and the 2 x 13 year olds are in good health. They basically eat a raw diet - bone inchicken mince, veges, fruit, eggs, bones etc.

I've had carpet - doesn't work. Previous house was a colonial with the most beautiful polished original floors, a mixture of crows ash, brush box etc. Every dog hair showed, every footprint showed, and they did scratch the floors (medium sized dogs) and they slipped. If I put mats down, getting hair out of the mats was twice the work, and they simply skiied over the floor on the mats if I put cotton mats down. I have tiles now, that's a winner. If you must have polished floors, get a matt finish, not high gloss, or as someone else suggested, estapol them. Having had both, I would tile over polished floors. Every single time. Easy to care for, a good vacuum picks up most of the dirt and hair and the dogs can't damage the floor. Not high gloss white though

I've done a new post, because the development of a new breed is different. If those who are developing a new breed wish it to be eventually registered with the ANKC as a breed, they must adhere to the ANKC protocol. This is on the ANKC website. Different registering bodies have different requirements, and the registration of purebreds upgraded would depend on the protocol of the registering body.

A purebred dog is the progeny of parents who are the same breed as each other. This rule applies to any and all purebred animals.

Many dogs of unknown parentage, including STB without papers have been seized by Brisbane City Council. However, I believe they are not seizing as many at the moment. Your rights are - if they come for your dog, they must have the correct paperwork, and you can fight the claim that he is a restricted breed. Do not let them take the dog without seeing the paperwork. Information re the paperwork should be on the council's website. You should register him with the council as a STB. It would also be a very good idea to contact the people who sold him to you, and get them to write a statutory declaration saying he is a STB. Plus, if possible, take photos of the parents, and have the breeders state in the stat dec that the dogs in the photos are the parents. Also have your vet write a letter saying that he is an STB. This will not guarantee his safety 100%, but may help if there is a problem. There are very few solicitors who have any idea about this. The only thing which currently provides 100% safety for STB in Qld is an ANKC registration certificate, so if you bought the dog from a registered breeder, do go and get the papers, or at least the parents' papers. Do they need any paperwork in Qld Jed? It's my understanding they can enter your house on the belief you own an APBT? Your right about lawyers though. Even the civil rights lawyers were ignorant of Chapter 17 entry and seizure laws. The law has changed but not had time to read it all yet. They have passed laws allowing Councils to enter if they believe there is a dangerous dog (ie, APBT) on the premises. Whether those laws would stand up in the supreme court if challenged is another matter, but no one has challenged them as yet. BCC has enterered and seized dogs, sometimes leaving a notice, sometimes not. On more than one occasion, they are supposed to have broken into the house to seize the dog. I believe this is true However, ACOs do have to present a seizure notice to the owner before taking the dog. There have been instances where the dog has been nabbed without the paperwork being supplied, so everyone should be aware that ACOs must have the appropriate paperwork, properly signed, prior to taking the dog. Once they have the dog, it is up to the owner to prove it is not an APBT. If that happens, I can advise. It's not easy though. Basically, the only opinion the council will accept is that of the ACO. They will not accept the opinion of a vet, for instance. The best option is to make them doubt that the dog is an APBT, before they take it, so they don't actually seize it, which is why I suggested registering as a staffy, and getting every bit of documentation they can. Due to cases brought before the courts by the EDBA, councils are now more careful about what they seize and they will sometimes back off at that point if the owner has some supporting documentation which suggests the dog is not an APBT or x. Because they are frightened the owner of the dog will go to court and prove (as in the Da Fre case) via records, that the dog is not an APBT. If the owners have some documentation, the council may back off, aware that the owner will go to court to get the dog back, and will be prepared to have dna tests done, stat decs etc. to prove the dog is not an APBT, which will involve a lot of expense to the council, particularly if the owners win - there are cases which have been won, so councils are more careful now. Once, they just dragged off any dog which was about the right size and short haired in the firm knowledge that they would win. I believe the law has changed, but I haven't had time to check either, but the above will serve the op if the need arises. Will have a look at it when I get time. AST, SBT & APBT parted ways a long time ago, particularly ANKC registered AST and SBT in Australia. I think there are enough generations between AST, APBt and SBT to prove they are separate breeds - unless you use the opinions of Brashear and Harvey, but there are other opinions which don't agree with them. F4 is accepted as pure with every breed of anything, cattle, goats, horses, and I don't suppose, legally, there would be any problem proving the same thing with AST, APBT and AST - providing someone wanted to put in the research and work to do it. The argument recently used in court that AST and APBT are the same breed was, imho, very short sighted, not well thought out, and did nothing to further the case for the dog in question, but a lot to endanger the lives of AST in this state, and probably in other states as well. Someone else will now have to go to court and prove otherwise, or Dogsqld will have to run around a lot to disprove it. I didn't think much of the course Dogsqld took on the introduction of BSL in Qld, and had quite a lot of say about it at the time to Dogsqld. Membership supported that point of view. And, to be fair, Dogsqld changed their opinion when they saw the results of their actions. To the op So, if they come for your dog, ask to see the seizure notice, do not be put off, make sure they show you. Take the time to read it. Then argue that your dog is not an APBT, show them every bit of paperwork you have claiming the dog is not APBT, with photos if you have them. Tell them the dog will show as a SBT if a dna test is done, and that you are contacting your solicitor immediately to fight the seizure and notice. No matter what they say, don't say anything else. Just keep saying the dog is an SBT and you will take it to court. And hope for the best

I have a really old, big steel one. It's a ripper. Shame I can't lift it without doing my back in!! And the wheels are fixed. It's a bitch to lift and push though. Handles goat tracks well though. Think it might be the brother to the one your mother bought, Ashanali!! The signature on the receipt says "Noah". Bought an aluminum one from a pet supply place closing - made in asia somewhere, lasted for a while, and then the wheels fell off. The ball bearings were seized up. Got the handyman to have a go at it - $100 and it's better than new. Cost $180, so I think I am on a winner. You can buy the patterned rubber or whatever it is at Clark Rubber too. I stuck some on the top of my trolley, couldn't get the bubbles out. Took it to a show in the boot, and my driving flattened out the bubbles Has anyone tried the Cooee crates the bloke at Durack sells?

It's a horrible thing to have happen, Wuppywoman, I'd be devastated. And it's a very nice thing to give them another pup. I would too. So difficult for them to lose their new pup, and not have the means to replace it, and I am sure they wouldn't. I'm surprised at Petplan, must go and have another look at their site. I was sure it covered illness - but who knows, maybe somewhere in the fine print ...... and it often costs a lot to try to save pups with parvo, all that time in hospital, on drips etc. good for you.

If your first dog is well behaved and trained, and you are comfortable with another dog, I'd say "yes". If your current dog has bad habits, he will teach them to the new dog. Two are 1 1/2 more work than one. They will bond to each other,but they will bond to you as well, and with 2 people in the household, each dog should get enough attention. They will play and enjoy each other, but love their people time too. Mine love playing with each other, but love it more when I play with them. Be aware that you may need to take one away by him/herself to effectively train, as the other dog will want to butt in. If you are working long hours, the dogs will have each other for company when you are not there. However, be aware that 2 boxers home alone can create a fair bit of havoc if they are bored - nothing like a bit of chewing and digging, and with a friend to incite to greater efforts - oh dear. Although, my experience is that boxers are not particularly destructive when they are growing. They seem to have a fair sense of right and wrong, and do try to be good.

Sorry, forgot to answer fully. I disagree that oodles are "tailored to size and shape". I believe that the people who are producing them have nfi, nor any care, and are breeding what they have- for the money - and not caring about what they produce, or whether they are suitable. Not tailored at all, simply produced in a random way. People don't understand the inherent dangers of crossing dogs with obvious differences such as skull shape, tooth placement, coat type etc never mind less obvious with different drives and characteristics. People who buy the crosses often have problems, but think that is normal.

As well as job specific roles, such as herding, hunting etc. purebred dogs have characteristics which are specific to their breed. They may not be required for their original role, but their specific characteristics adapt to modern society, so people purchase them for pets, even though they may not have a requirement for the original job. Temperament, coat type, size, characteristics are predictable in a purebred dog, and many people like that predictability. Personally, I would prefer to know exactly how my pup will grow, and what it will be like as an adult, because I know the characteristics are those I will be happy with. If I buy a cross bred, it may not have characteristics I desire, and "may not meet expectations", which is the major reason for people taking their dogs to the pound. And if I am going to live with a dog for 10 - 15 years, I want to know that it is a dog I will get on with, which will train predictably, act predictably, and behave predictably, as well as grow the coat I expect. Cross bred dogs have been heavily promoted via the media for the past 15 or so years, and given that, and programs such as PDE which vilify purebred dogs, the public now purchases cross breds. Another factor increasing the sales of cross breds is the scarcity of purebred dogs. There are insufficient purebred dogs to meet the market, so some do buy crossbreds.

Many dogs of unknown parentage, including STB without papers have been seized by Brisbane City Council. However, I believe they are not seizing as many at the moment. Your rights are - if they come for your dog, they must have the correct paperwork, and you can fight the claim that he is a restricted breed. Do not let them take the dog without seeing the paperwork. Information re the paperwork should be on the council's website. You should register him with the council as a STB. It would also be a very good idea to contact the people who sold him to you, and get them to write a statutory declaration saying he is a STB. Plus, if possible, take photos of the parents, and have the breeders state in the stat dec that the dogs in the photos are the parents. Also have your vet write a letter saying that he is an STB. This will not guarantee his safety 100%, but may help if there is a problem. There are very few solicitors who have any idea about this. The only thing which currently provides 100% safety for STB in Qld is an ANKC registration certificate, so if you bought the dog from a registered breeder, do go and get the papers, or at least the parents' papers.

How dreadful. Poor, poor dogs. And that poor family, how could you ever move in after something so terrible happening? And quiet family dogs probably wouldn't fight back.

"Experts" thought the injury was consistent with bashing by a star picket. He could well have been asleep on the lawn, and a pitbull hater bashed him - because he could. Or he might been on the footpath, same story. Does happen, and rarely makes the papers. Good on the rangers for taking him to the vet. Poor boy, hope he recovers.

I do hope they will have someone with some nous look at the footage, and ascertain why this attack happened, and investigate every single attack which results in damage or a fatality, and come to some conclusions, which are then released to the public. Whether the public heeds and understands is another matter, but some help in understanding would certainly prevent some attacks. What was the trigger. Dog disliked children? Was on lead, and felt threatened by the child? Some attacks would not have happened if owners could recognize the triggers to an attack, and step up to prevent the attack, but no one is educating most of them. Most Bull Terriers are good with children, they have good nerves, and a high pain thresh-hold and they don't often bite people. So, was this a badly bred dog, with bad nerves, or a dog which was not good with children, or a dog which felt threatened by the child? Whatever, a poor little kid is injured, the bull and terrier breeds are in the red light again. We need to be responsible as breeders, and we need to be responsible as owners, to recognize our dogs' needs, and their foibles, and act to prevent anything like this happening.

How terribly sad, I do feel for you all. Nothing worse than losing a nice healthy pup, we all invest so much in them. Incubation period, from my reading/listening, is 2 - 10 days. Sounds to me as if the pup picked it up en route or at the new home. If there was parvo at your place, the other pups (some, anyhow) would have it. Maybe get your vet to talk to their vet? And I think PetPlan would have covered it - up to $3000, I believe. I wont send my pups away on transport/planes any more, and after reading about rescues putting dogs straight from pounds onto interstate transport without any quarantine period, I never will.

I have had pups not fully pigmented at 8 - 10 weeks, but they do get full pigment. I wouldn't expect full pigment at 4 - 5 weeks. The last boxer I bought didn't have a fully pigmented nose at 12 weeks, but she did get full pigment. I am not sure how difficult it is to sell flatcoats, but I would refund both deposits and tell him (nicely) to truck off if pups are not too difficult to sell. IMHO, EVERY time, the person who wants the "perfect" pup is always disappointed somewhere down the line, and it is ALWAYS the breeders fault. Then when they break the dog (and this sort of person always does in my experience), it is never their fault. They usually have numpty vets too, and that causes more problems. I don't take deposits either, and I don't let people come and see the pups until they are 8 weeks+. They can see photos etc before that. I'd be careful about kelp tablets too - the methonine in kelp should help the pigment, but it is possible to overdose on iodine, which can cause problems with thyroid function. It will probably be ok (and if BB has been using with without problems, it should be). I have never used kelp on pups, and never had a problem with pigment. It is possible to purchase methonine, although a bit difficult, and this would be safer, I think, if you must do someting. At that age, I would be surprised if the pup wasn't fully pigmented in time. May just take longer than the others.

Used it extensively on horses when it was first publicised, for very good results. Have used it on dogs quite a lot too.

Ok playing devils advocate,by adding kelp in whatever amount ,how can you be sure you are not throwing their thyroid totally out of whack? that why i buy vets all natural its all premixed to a vets specification. i didnt say make up my own amounts. I have always been of the belief that the thyroid is something you don't mess with and really how many wild dogs eat seaweed? Surely they get enough iodine from organs... geez i was just using those two ingredients of examples of whats in the mix. i didnt say i force feed the dogs seeweed no wonder people dont post on this forum they get executed. if id said there was rolled oats in it, i would have been in trouble for that as well. you feed your dog what you want and ill feed mine. im sure the amount my lot eat of kelp, they would be in more danger from the toxins coming out of a cars exhaust when we go for a walk. I'm not qualified to give an opinion on it, i leave the trust in the professionals, but my breeder has an honours degree in science majoring in zoology, and she gives her dogs vets all natural, so if it was going to damage the dogs in any way we wouldnt be feeding them that. WOW talk about sensitive. I was questioning it because it is NOT needed. Yep you feed what you want to and your dog can get a whole load of additives it does'nt need and you can possibly screw with it's system. I am NOT bashing you but if you go and google information about feeding kelp to dogs and the pros and cons then that is my intention,not to upset you. Make sure to look for the cons too....this forum is all about sharing information and debating the postives AND negatives of things. Sorry but we are not here to agree with each other all the time,how damn boring would that be! Oh and kelp IS seaweed . Oats won't make your dog psychotic but kelp can! Execution is illegal in Australia as far as I know. So don't worry keep posting you are safe. Feeding a lot of the cabbage family, can depress the thyroid gland. Kelp, I believe, in overdose can cause the thyroid gland to shut down, slowing down the dog's metabolism. However, it contains trace amounts of iodine, zinc, cobalt, etc. Iodine is also found in dairy and seafood. Dogs need iodine, and feeding kelp is a good way to provide that, as long as it is not overdone. I believe Billinghurst recommends 1 kelp tab a day? I give mine powdered kelp - a sprinkle - and I haven't had any problems, so obviously what I am giving them is about right. Rolled oats, great stuff!! Vits E and B, 8% fat, 15% protein, iron, potassium, zinc, manganese. Nice now and again, and great for bringing in the milk for nursing mums, very palatable, and well accepted. Relished with milk, honey and an egg, when nothing else is acceptable.

My dogs all eat BARF - although my recipe has probably become a bit bastardised over time. 10% veges is all you need. They are only there to provide vitamins/minerals/enzymes and a bit of fibre which are not available via the meat and bones, and to provide balance. IMHO, 2 veges/fruits at a time is sufficient. He may have found the kidney too strong, or the flax seed oil may have disagreed with him. Or he may not have fancied the broccoli. I do feed broccoli and cauli - occasionally, without problems. My dogs don't like broccoli much, so it isn't on the menu very often, but it does contain Vit K, and beta carotene, which can be converted into Vit A. Apple, carrot, pear, strawberry, melons, stone fruits, sweet potato, beans, peas (in the pod), spinach, silverbeet, celery - and probably a whole heap of stuff I've forgotten, but which I bought when it was cheap. All contain something beneficial, and dogs' digestive systems are able to utilize enzymes and vitamins from pulped veges/fruit. As long as the diet is balanced over time - not over a few days - just over time, there will be no problems. Mine wont eat any type of citrus at all. No way!! Add organs (liver, kidney, heart) from time to time too, but start with a little at a time. Organs are quite rich.

Tarope, "protective" and "aggressive" are not the same thing in dog language.

What is "mase"?????????

If I'd bred the pup, I'd want to talk to the treating vet. If I was ok with what he said, I would refund the purchase price, and they could keep the pup. Personally, I would call entropian hereditary. There is an enormous body of veterinary disagreement about demodex and that changes every few years depending on who is doing the research. I think it is probably due to a compromised immune system, which may be hereditary, but the demodex becomes apparent when there is stress - which may be health, diet or hormonal related. On the other hand, all dogs apparently carry the mite, and presumably the majority go through life with no symptoms. 2 of my dogs had demodex , both under enormous stress at the time. Neither produced pups with it, nor was it bred on in the lines. And there was no history of it in their lines. Two dogs is not a study but I can only go with my own experience I have also seen it in a dog which was fine, taken by new owners, few a low quality dry diet and developed demodex within a short period. 11 months is when there are hormonal changes and dogs often develop demodex during this period. It should not be difficult to cure - for a normal case, but I would want to know whether it was generalised or not. For my own information Contracts setting out the responsibility of both buyer and seller are important, and they should be understood before being signed. And it is important for buyers to be aware that buying any living thing does entail some risk. No one, no matter how many tests and checks they have done, can ever ensure that the pups they produce are free from any and all defects. Some buyers do not understand that. And some problems are due to owner inexperience, or mismanagement