Jed

I would take her to the vet, just in case. However, if you clean out the ear with Epi Otic, or something similar and put 1 drop of Frontline in each ear (2 drops if she is a large breed) that will kill the mites stone dead. Be aware Frontline is not approved for use in that way for ear mites, but it works a treat! Some vets will tell you to use it, and I always do.

GoldiesRgreat Dr Dodds isn't a holistic vet. She has been researching vaccines and their effects ever since the multi vaccines replaced the measles temp shot, followed by distemper (and rabies in US). this amounts to over 20 years research, in a clinical environment, and she is not the only one. It's difficult to grasp when the vet. profession has been drilling us for years about annual vaccinations, but if you do enough research and reading you do understand it. Very few dogs suffered from the auto immune diseases pre parvo injections as they do now - which is what set me on a learning curve 15 years ago. Remember too that dogs pick up immunity by having contact with these diseases in the environment, and their immunity strengthens as time goes on.

Please research vaccinations, and consider not giving her any more annual vaccinations. They are NOT necessary, and destroy the immune system - as you have seen. And, don't feel bad, it is not your fault, it is the fault of that numpty vet, who obviously can't read, or doesn't care. There's enough evidence available to vets to show them giving a C5 and hearworm injection is a fatal idea, yet they persist in doing it. Owners shouldn't be expected to know. Chloebear, your dog was performing because the injections made her feel soooo bad, she isn't going back there to have another one. Respect her wishes. And there is NO reason to vaccinate with C7. The extra 2 LIVE vaccines are for corona, which is a puppy disease, never seen in adult dogs, and rarely fatal anyhow, and lepto, which is NOT found south of Mackay. It thrives in hot wet tropical conditions. And the incidence of lepto in dogs is so minute it barely rates a mention. I think your dog has more chance of being crashed into by a Fokker Friendship in your backyard than getting lepto. And Cavandra - you can report all you like, they don't put the numbers on the website. I personally know of ELEVEN dogs with severe (try, death) reactions to vaccines in one year, but the website showed 3. If I knew of 11, and only 3 showed, how many others did they get which weren't shown? Big fat fibbers. For anyone who wants to know more, google Dr Jean Dodds, Catherine O'Driscoll or Dr Bob Rogers + canine + vaccinations, and you'll have enough reading matter for weeks.

I have come to the conclusion that there are more myths about cattle dogs than any other breed I know!!

Coccidia can be cured by oral doses of Baycox, which is not expensive. If the breeder is saying the pup is over the coddidia, there is no reason not to buy. I have never heard of coccidia having any long term effect. My vet believes that if there is any thought the pup might have coccidia it is worth treating anyway.

He isn't old enough to have bowel/bladder control. Instead of newspaper, buy some puppy pads from the petshop, and put them in the laundry. Put a couple in the house too. They smell like dogs should go on them - but they don't work for all pups. At this stage, the urge to go comes on - and he has to go RIGHT NOW. Not in 30 seconds when he makes the laundry. If you have a couple of pads in the house (they are backed with waterproof material) he might just get to them. Don't throw them away after each use, shake soil down the toilet, and if you want you can dry them in the sun and re-use, but I chuck mine out when they are very wet. Keep taking him to the pads when he wakes up and after he eats. In a while, he will get it - some are faster than others, and rumour has it that girls are faster than boys. I also think that how the pups are raised pre purchase has some influence on how easy they are to toilet train. I keep mine in a large puppy pen - before 6 weeks, they do soil their bed, which is on one side of the pen. From about 5 weeks, they are outside on the lawn for a few hours morning and evening, and back to the pen for meals, and to sleep at night. From about 6 weeks, they are toileting in the opposite corner to the bed. When they leave home at 8+ weeks, they always use the designated toilet area, and I have found most buyers have little trouble toilet training them. Don't take him outside until 2 weeks after his second vaccination. He is not protected from viruses which live in the environment until that time. Move anything which he can chew which may be unsafe - they explore things with their mouths, so expect him to be chewing on all sorts of things. I couldn't count the number of phone cords I've lost to puppy teeth. (They can't get to electrical cords) Be patient, and good luck. Remember, for a short period of angst, you will have years with a nice, well behave dog. Grit your teeth and persevere. Good choice of breed by the way

Sounds as if she is constipated to me. Keep an eye on her, and see if she is straining. She'll probably do a huge pile later on. If nothing has happened by Monday, off to the vet.

If he is passing normal motions, he does not have a blockage, but keep watching. Most "bugs" come with vomiting and/or diarrohea. If he was my dog, and he was no better, I would take him to the vet on Monday, and do tests. One of mine was something like that a month or so ago. Sunday night - Wouldn't eat, although would drink a little. Same on Monday. Nothing obviously wrong - colour good, temp ok, but she was a bit flat. She ate a couple of tiny pieces of my roast chicken which I offered her, but not very enthusiatically (this girl would eat a whole Bison at one sitting if she could) She was the same on Tuesday am, so I dropped her off at the vet, he couldn't see anything wrong with her either. So I left her there, asking him to do whatever tests he felt necessary. White cell count was elevated (signifying infection), and when he opened her mouth to give her an antibiotic - he noticed something black on her tongue. She had swallowed a sewing needle with 30 cms black cotton attacked, and the needle was lodged in her tonsil. He anaethetised her, and pulled it out with forceps. So - never rule anything out!! I didn't think she had eaten anything because there was no sign of even a partial blockage. I know this is quite bizarre, but sometimes you do need to do tests. If there is no change in 2 days, he needs help. Hope he is ok, let us know.

I am pleased the breeder agreed to take him back. I do think you should get a refund, and I do think the breeder has some responsibility in this, providing you told her the truth when you bought the puppy. She had the knowledge, and a duty of care to both you and the puppy to explain how it would be. And she ought to be able to re-sell him quite easily, so there is no loss. However, she may take $50 or so off the price to cover advertising. Personally as a breeder, I would prefer to take the pup back, give a refund, than know he could be in a home which wasn't coping very well with him. Sorry it didn't work out, but the first couple of weeks can be very time consuming and trying.

I've used it for years too, and as far as I can see, there is nothing in it which would cause dry eye - all a bit strange, I think.

No. Where did you read it?

He can still serve bitches and sire puppies. Undescended testicles are very prone to become cancerous as the dog matures. The stats are quite frightening. And it will probably cost more, as there is more to the operation.

:D Congraultions. What a great outcome. Keep up the good work.

Most of the nutrition in weetbix and milk comes from the milk!! If the pup is not lactose intolerant - and he is obviously not - as he has been drinking the milk without problems, I would continue to feed that. Mix a raw egg in with it for higher protein levels, or change to cooked rolled oats (which are better than weetbix) with milk. All my pups are reared on milk, with no ill effects.

My research shows that Nutrience is a premium brand. Nothing wrong with Science Diet or Advance, but there is no point in changing just for the sake of it. Dogs digestive systems have evolved to deal with bacteria, and only a very few dogs have problems with bacteria. Cooking meat for dogs destroys an enzyme which is necessary for digestion. Also, if you are feeding "bone in" mince (ie, chicken mince), cooking destroys the calcium contained in the tiny bones. The biggest problem with raw beef is neospora, but freezing destroys this. If you can purchase preservative free meat from the pet shop, it is a better and cheaper option. The pet food shop I use sells only preservative free meat, from $1.20 kg. alanglen This is ok advice, provided the vet or nurse has some knowledge of nutrition - but a lot only know what the pet food reps have told them, while some people here have done quite a lot of research on feeding dogs, and are very knowledgable. alanglen And your reference for that statement is? I don't feed Nutrience, but research indicates that it is a premium food.

Remove anything with preservatives/colourings/grain - which means the weetbix and pedigree, both dry and sachets. Try aloveen shampoo, or Fido's freitch. Note whether he is better after or before a bath. If he is scratching his ears/head, think about a yeast infection in his ears - or syringo (which is horrible, but fairly unlikely). Speak to your breeder, Westies are very allergy prone - and to certain things - and the breeder may be able to offer some hints. A while ago a good Westie breeder told me a few things to do with them so they don't itch --- It sounded pretty good, but I've forgotten. Maybe ask around.

I do what my standard of ethics tells me is right, so I wouldn't be grooming these dogs either. Yes, they may well go elsewhere, but if no one ever stands up to be counted, people who do things which disagree with your own moral code never know. Lots of people never realise this is wrong, because no one ever tells them. And if their friends are doing it, they are in a whole cult thing, where it is ok. So, my advice is stand up for what you believe in, I would!! Sometimes it doesn't earn you any friends, but you sleep well at night, and who wants friends like that anyhow?? :rolleyes: And for anyone reading who says "well, that's ok, it's not Jed losing money" - I get lots of enquiries for my stud boy from unregistered/puppy farmers/byb. He never sells his body to anyone, registered or unregistered, whose ethics I do not agree with. And he says he would rather eat bread and water than do the wild thing for the wrong reasons so he can eat bbq chicken!! (like hell!!)

Pups go through a food aggression stage with the rest of the litter. I leave mine alone to sort it out - unless I think someone is overly aggressive. I also put down and take away food from the litter - but not until they have had their fill - and I correct any aggressive behaviour. I think you are doing the right thing. I've been doing it for a long time - doing it for a long time doesn't necessarily mean it is right, but it does work, and none of the pups seem to give their owners problems with food issues when they are sold. She may have been food aggressive because she was starved too - you'll never know - probably a combination of the two. My experience is that she should reach her genetic blue print, despite being small now. With the gorging, some pups just gorge. I generally let them eat all they like at that age - even though they look as if they are about to explode. I have noticed it in particular with staffy x rescue pups which were wormy and skinny. I figure only they know how much they want. I put the food down, if they eat it and are looking around for more, I put down more. If they finish and there is a little left, that is good. I've never had a problem either in puppyhood, or when they grow up, from this practice. Oh and as the mature the gorging stops. Never had one explode either - although I've had a few whose legs simply collapsed after a meal, and the big belly descended to the floor with the legs sticking out - like bugs legs!~! Despite people telling me I shouldn't let them eat so much, I still do it - I've never had a disaster, and I figure only they know when they are full, and maybe a pup which has been starved, or which has greater needs does need to gorge. About 12 - 16 weeks is the time to control the amount, if the pup is porky. She may need a lot past that time. For now, I'd let her eat her fill. :rolleyes: If you are bothered, give her another feed about an hour after the first one. Personally, I think nature is telling her she needs to catch up, and that is what she is doing.

I'm pleased you are having some success with her. Remember, she wants to be good, but she needs you to tell her how to be good. Continue with the quiet people times too, lots of gentle praise and stroking - no high squeaky voices. The more success you have, the more willing she will be, and the more confident she will be. win win situation!! :rolleyes: Some people don't check their e-mails very often. The owner of the stud dog I used last time is a shocker - I don't have a problem, but she wants to see the pups, and I sent her photos -- no response!! I'll bet she hasn't even looked. So don't stress too much. 2.5 years is a good age for a stud dog, no dramas there, and she is well bred. I think your pup is probably really smart, and because she was sick and pampered, she is now beginning the difficult teenage time, and is taking advantage of you!! You just need to take over. When you are in control, you will be amazed at how content she is - a dog actually finds it a bit stressful to be in control - too much responsibility!! Apart from my dog (cocker) of course - his function is to control the household, maintain the behaviours of the other dogs, check that I am eating healthily, sleeping enough, waking early, that all visitors meet his high standards, and that any purchases are of the quality he expects. It's a big job, but someone has to do it. Retrain him to know his place you say? He KNOWS his place - I am a mere vassal of his will!! But he doesn't jump on me and I can do whatever I like with his food without dramas.

The puppy grabbing your clothes/body is playing. An analology is 2 children playing and running - one is ahead, the other runs up behind him and grabs him by the sleeve. This is exactly what the pup is doing - but he has no hands, so has to use his mouth. When pups play, they bite and grab each other - by the leg, tail, ear. They grab the older dogs' ears - and as soon as the older dogs yelp, they stop. They were only playing. You need to correct the behaviour - in a growly voice to distract the pup, and do it every time it does it, and ask it to sit. No running with the kids until there is some semblence of obedience. Val Bonney, imho, an excellent dog trainer has written a very good book, which will help you - called "Who's The Boxx" - she has a website - I think www.valbonney.com.au or google it, and you can order on line - about $25 I think. This will explain what is happening, and help you to overcome it. If the pup bites at your husband's clothing, push the pup away, and growl. Then ask for sit, and reward. No reward until the grabbing stops and she is sitting. Then stroke gently, and praise.

Whatever it is, it is wrong. The pup needs to be corrected every time. By saying "aargh" in a growly voice, and immediately stopping what is happening, immediately take your hand or whatever part is in the dog's mouth away, putting the dog into a sit, and praising. Then treat the dog quietly. I'll get flamed for this - but putting a dog of this age into a crate, or into another room is not immediate enough - a loud enough and cross enough sound gets the pup's immediate attention, so it pauses in what it is doing - so you have stopped the behaviour, and the pup can connect the biting with the growly noise. I go through this with every litter. You pick them up, they want to put their mouths on you...usually the hand. That is how they interact. I take my hand away, and do something else with the pup. If it persists, I growl at it. Also, if you never put your hand anywhere the pup can grab it, and don't move it quickly in front of the pup, you are halfway there, and it's easy to turn a pup's head away. If they are biting my ankle (and they do), I growl, remove the ankle, and distract the pup. Only takes a few times for a baby pup to learn this. and I know when they go to their new homes, the biting/mouthing probably wont begin again - unless the new owners allow the pup to be "wild" and I tell them how to avoid that. Play with children should not involve running and screaming - it should involve toys - throw toys, tug toys, and no teasing. Time for running with kids is when the pup is trained, and his brain is big enough to understand.

Some breeders actually know quite a lot about their breed, and the right breeder will have heard this question 50 times and know the answer. The pup is not aggressive, it is a normal, healthy exuberant out of control pup!! I breed boxers, and they can have the same problem. Don't let the pup run around with little kids ... they get excited, particularly with kids who are running, jumping and screaming -and as they would do to other dogs, they tend to use their teeth, because they cannot differentiate between kids and pups. And because they are excited. Grabbing your doggy brother on the ear or the leg is ok, but it is not ok with kids. They need to learn this. Teach the pup sit, down, quiet, no. Play with her outside, with balls, ropes etc.....not your hands or body. Don't flap your hands in front of her, or around her head. This is an invitation to nip. Play with her outside - inside is for quiet time, snuggles and pats. If she is too boisterous, ask her to sit - and give her a pat for being quiet. Continue this for as long as you need Don't pat her, stroke her. Stroke her on the head and neck and back, which will induce quiet behaviour. If she jumps up and wants to run around, again ask her to sit, and then again stroke her and be gentle. By gentle stroking, you will induce relaxation. If she wants to be rough, restrain her, and say "sit' until she does. Continue to do this, and in a surprisingly short time, she will be quiet inside - but make sure she has lots of play time outside, but not with your body, with toys. It;'s ok to bite or chew toys, not people Get a trainer to help you with the growling over food. I get mine used to my handling the food from when weaning commences, and if they growl, I shake them by the scruff of the neck, as the mother would or simply pick them up, depending on the temperament of the pup. I then put them back with the food, so when they are sold, they are used to people handling them and the food, and accept it as normal. Not all breeders do this though. You cannot reallly shake a pup that age by the scruff of the neck, so get help. No "whose a good waggy silly dog then" - nothing to stir her up

Yep, they are equally effective. I would be going for the monthly tablet (or the daily one from the supermarket), they are much safer, and better for the dog. Anything which is toxic enough to kill imho, cannot be good in the dog's system for 12 months. It is an easier way for owners, but perhaps not the best option for the dog, according to the research I have done.

No matter how big the pup, at 12 weeks, it's stomach is not large enough to go between breakfast and dinner without lunch. If you go to work, leave some dry food out for the pup to have for lunch. It't very bad for a pup to go so long between feeds, and I am surprised the diet sheet which should have come with your pup didn't point this out. At 4 months, the pup should definitely be having 3 meals a day although 4 is better. He will tell you when he is ready to drop a meal - he simply will not eat all of one meal. That's the time to drop a feed, not at any particular age. And at 16 weeks he can eat as much as he wants - unless he is a pig, in which case, you will have to regulate the food. Most 4 month old pups eat only what they need. Greed comes with adulthood. Obviously, if he is hopelessly overweight, cut back his food, but my experience, gained with a lot of pups is that they self regulate. And they have growth spurts and eat a lot, or they don't so they go through periods of not eating as much as they were eating. Depends on how they are growing.

Scourban will actually cure a lot of diarrohea - it is anti bacterial and antibiotic, but it needs to be used for 4 - 6 days to be effective. Worms could be a problem. So could coccidia - and the treatment for that is not antibiotics, it is Baycox. Or if could be a food allergy - in which case, he should be eating what the breeder was giving him. It could also be something like ulcerative colitis. There is a difference in the colour and type of diarrohea with each of the above. The vet should take a fecal sample and run some tests. Good luck, let us know how you go.