Jed

These are all signs of pain. I would consider a GOOD chiropractor - someone can probably recommend one, and maybe speak to the vet about stronger/different pain medication. Like a few others who have replied, it does sound like an injury/strain to me.

Cavs, imho, do better on BARF. You haven't had her long if she is only 9 weeks. What was the breeder feeding her? My experience is that a baby Cav does not have the jaw strength or persistence to eat kibble. If you must feed it, soak it in water first. Some kibbles are as tough as old boots, and even if the Cav likes it, actually chewing it at that age is too much for them. I'd feed BARF anyhow, she'll do better on it, and obviously likes it. When I have a litter, I do give them kibble, in case the new owner needs to leave them something for lunch if he/she is going out -- but they much prefer their raw food, eggs and milk. When they are older, they will often eat kibble.

the second vac is given in case the pup's immune system didn't mount a challenge to the first vac. could be due to immaturity of immunne system etc. So if protection isn't provided by the first vac. the second vac will do that. Used to be thought that maternal immunity could over-ride the first vaccine, but it is now realised that the pup's own immune system must provide anti bodies. Consequently, the 2nd vac is only "insurance", and you don't really need 2 lots of "insurance". This is a very sketchy explanation, and you will find more information on this from Jean Dodds

What great news, go Radar!! And I think you should give this good vet a plug - then we'll all be able to visit him

You never have been, and are not now a member of the ANKC, you know nothing about them, yet you presume to speak for them. You have NFI whether they care or not, and you are not likely to find out whether they care or not yet you are once again spouting off about something you have no knowledge or understanding of. And probably wouldn't understand even if was explained to you using small words or not more than 5 letters. I doubt the ANKC would support a ban, unless they were put in a position where they needed to support it. You wont understand that either, but others here will. Here ya go: 1.The Australian National Kennel Council and its Member Bodies totally and unequivocally oppose the practice of training of a dog to attack humans or any other animals, or of causing dogs to fight. We totally support any State or Federal laws that would outlaw this practice. Such practice is an offence against Member Bodies Regulations 2.The Australian National Kennel Council and its Member Bodies encourage and support the interaction and mutual enjoyment of man and dog in all sporting activities catered for by the many disciplines encompassed within their jurisdiction.We believe that dogs should be properly cared for, humanely trained and not pushed beyond reasonable limits, for the respective breed's capabilities, whilst competing in the various disciplines. http://www.ankc.org.au/home/inner.asp?pageid=53&mainid=2 RE: Attack Training and Sports. What has that got to do with what I said

Nekhbet Purebred APBT do have pedigrees. But, like a lot of other purebreeds, some are bred from non registered parents, and others have a little of some other breed in them, but all as classed as "pitties", but the genuine article does have a pedigree, and registration.

I've had a couple of boxers step up to the plate. One was the pack leader, one not. the first would assess what she perceived to be danger, and take steps she saw as necessary - this could involve being between me and the person she saw as danger. I could order her back, but she would still be alert and watching. Once she was sitting in the back of the car, and the passenger, a person previuosly unknown to her, offered me something - she reached over to the front seat and took his wrist in her mouth - did not bite, just held. She also guarded possessions, particularly horse gear at shows. She didn't bark much, but if someone tried to enter, she would growl - which stopped everyone, but I have no doubt that if pushed, she would have bitten.If she knew someone, they could enter the truck, or the house, have a meal, sleep there, take the TV when no one was home - no problem. If she didn't know them, they were stopped at the door, unless she was told they were ok. She had her own grading system for friends, acquaintances and strangers. She was not protectimg herself, but she would protect what she perceived as "hers" which included the family. If the children were in the yard, and someone came, she would bark, but she would always keep herself between the children and the person, until I was friendly towards them, and then she relaxed. She would never begin a fight, but if another dog began one, she would finish it. She was a friendly, outgoing, confident dog, who ran around at horse shows, making friends, cadging treats, wagging, wagging - but amongst her family and their things, she was a watchful dog. If she was tied up outside shops, she would be friendly to anyone who spoke to her. The second was not the pack leader, but was the one who went out at night, and bit and chased a prowler who was in the yard. She didn't behave aggressively before or after that act - in fact she was everyone' s friend. The current pack leader sees his role as a guardian. He hasn't bitten anyone, because he hasn't needed to, but I have no doubt he would. I do believe that a good example of a guarding breed will step up to the plate without any training - it should be innate in the breed, but isn't always. I think it is instinctive. JMHO

PomsNZ, that is great news. I was about to suggest honey water, but the naturopath already has him on it, which is good. Remember, that if one part of the body is doing something, the digestive system may not be able to work at the same time. The body is healing, which means the blood flow is going to the injured parts, and those parts which are affected, and the dog's innate sense tells him that his digestive system cannot function efficiently at the same time, because the blood flow and energy is required elsewhere. This is why pre and post whelping bitches and injured will not eat well. Honey is very healing to the insides of a dog, and also provides nutrients and glucose, which is good for energy. Nutrigel should be fine, as I don't think it requires too much digestive effort, but unless he is fading away, don't try to push too many solid foods onto him now. Offer him easy to digest things. I find, at times like this, a little milk with a beaten up egg provides plenty ol protein and energy which the dog's system can easily digest. Vets often forget the importance of nursing and correct feeding for very ill dogs -- or maybe they don't know, but it sounds as if the naturopath does.

Midol If the pup has correct temperament according to the breed standard, and has been raised in the correct manner, which should include sights and sounds at home, and socialisation by the breeder and with the other dogs, there will be no problem. "Socialisation" does not necessarily mean to be out and about in public, and "5 - 14 weeks" is dependent on the breed, and the temperament and development rate of each individual pup, but providing the temperament is satisfactory, there should be no problem

My adults are fed once a day. The younger ones are fed appropriate to their ages. I don't fast them. I don't see any point, and it makes them unhappy. Liver detoxification is all very well, but how do you know if the liver needs detoxification?

You never have been, and are not now a member of the ANKC, you know nothing about them, yet you presume to speak for them. You have NFI whether they care or not, and you are not likely to find out whether they care or not yet you are once again spouting off about something you have no knowledge or understanding of. And probably wouldn't understand even if was explained to you using small words or not more than 5 letters. I doubt the ANKC would support a ban, unless they were put in a position where they needed to support it. You wont understand that either, but others here will.

I know SFA about Sch, but the constant inroads to our hobby alarm me. As everyone knows!! As far as I know Sch dogs are not going out randomly attacking people or causing mayhem in the community. I very much doubt that the ANKC had anything to do with the law. Probably wouldn't care. I do think, however, it might be a good idea to find out where the impetus came from to lobby politicians to pass the law. They sure didn't dream it up themselves. I would think a certain "welfare" group might have been the driving factor. but it is handy to know, you know who you are fighting then, and what their ethos is. There would have been little point in trying to prevent the legislation being enacted. My experience is that once they have decided, it happens. A very easy one to get through ----" all those dogs being trained to bite people ---- would have done it. It is almost impossible to have a law changed, but it might be possible to have it modified so that dogs which were part of accredited clubs were exempt. I am happy to lend support, if I can, although I cannot donate. If you need numbers, or a signature on a petition, count me in. You need a good barrister to study the law, and to see where it might be possible to have the court case return at least a reasonable outcome.

Great news! Go, pom kid!! :D

That's great news - for you both. I am so happy to read this :D Hope whatever it was never happens again, and she lives a lot more years in good health and spirit.

Hope he is ok. Sending healing vibes, and all fingers crossed for him.

Hi Prodigybxr, I'b get an MRI done too. Having lost 2 boxers - one definitely from a brain tumor, and one from either a brain or pancreatic tumor, any sign of any seizure in a boxer is worrying for me, as they both had seizures as the first indication. I hope in your case, it is something less sinister. My thoughts and good wishes are with you both.

Hi, and welcome to the forum. The puppy's breeder should provide information on diet, worming and vaccinations, and probably some other helpful information as well. I think you should contact them for information. Basics are Bed Grooming Items - depends on breed Puppy Shampoo Bowls - food and water (not plastic) Collar and Lead Flea & tick preparation (although this could wait until you get the pup) Place to keep the pup at night - investigate crate training if you wish, I don't care for crates, but you will want to contain the pup somewhere at night. Toys - soft fluffy ones, balls, squeaky toys - Latex is best. Rope chew toys Take a soft toy with you when you collect the pup, rub it on the other pups and the mother, and take it home with you. It will retain the smell and the pup will be comforted by it (some breeders provide a soft toy with the pup - I do) Food, when you find out what the pups has been eating at the breeders. They are the absolute basics, you can add to them as you wish there is also a book available at most large pet shops which sell books. "How to Raise and Train a XXXXXXX" (insert breed here) about $25. Provides really good basic information on having a pup. Also contains info on toilet training and basic training. A book on the breed could be handy, depends on how much you want to spend.

Cause the vet needed a new BMW? Cost is far too high. The majority of vets charge an extra $20 - $30, and some don't charge anything extra. It's a very small operation. I'd be unhappy too.

Contact the EDBA via their website, and ask them for assistance.

MVD doesn't present as a murmum at 6, 8 weeks, only much later. And, I don't think pet insurance would cover it, as the pup already has the murmur. I am the fortunate owner of a delightful (sometimes) 9 year old cocker spaniel, who has a horrible double sided murmur which he has had since birth. It was detected at 6 weeks when he went to be vaccinated. Had no idea what the outcome would be when he was little, but it's never caused him any grief - he leads a very normal life. Whether it will become a problem as he ages is in the lap of the gods. And, I've had 9 great years. And he has too. All dogs aren't perfect, and sometimes, the ones with little imperfections are the best ones.

Hi Meeka, pleased to hear your puppy only had a "puppy murmur" which will resolve. At 6 weeks, "things" are still forming, so it is possible a murmur will resolve by 8 - 12 weeks. Also, if pups are checked shortly after eating, murmurs will be detected, which aren't there at the next check. Although obviously, your puppy's murmur was not of the latter variety. Some CKCS do have MVD, but now that testing has been available for some years, it is possible to choose from stock which is clear by parentage. Most CKCS with problems are from puppy farms or BYB who do not check their breeding dogs for MDV. By purchasing from an ethical breeder, who ensured the parents were clear, you should have no problems.

I thought, once the government had eradicated the "pit bull menace", they would probably begin on staffies - but it's a double header, so owners of staffies and rotties need to be vigilant about stories like this. Write to the editor, write to your local member, write to your councillor, so if any of them even consider bans for these breeds, you have some history of objections. If anyone wants it, I have dog bite stats available, which might help.

My pleasure. When the vet desexes him, he will put a couple of stitches in the muscle to pull it together, ditto in the skin. Some hernias do resolve themselves in time, and are called "delayed closures" but your vet has seen the dog, and will know what best to do. Not a biggie

Hi, and welcome to the forum. Umbilical hernias are due to a tiny break in the muscle wall where the umbilical cord was - often the break is so small you cannot see it. Usually a little fat escapes through the hole, and lodges under the skin, causing the "bulge" in the skin which you can see, which is the hernia. The only time they are a aproblem is if a piece of intestine is caught in the tear, but that is extremely rare. Best practice is to repair them, so they don't get any bigger. Most vets will do this when the dog is desexed, and they usually don't charge any extra, or maybe $20 - $30 more than they would for the desexing operation. Hernias are due to different causes - mother may have picked the pup up by the cord after whelping and shook him a bit, causing the tear, it could have happened after birth, or there may have been a small weakness there when he was being formed prior to birth No big deal.

Glad she is ok now