Jed

PF I believe, from the orignal newspaper report, that the dog involved in the above attack was a rottweiler. The black dog which cannot be found which perpetrated the attack on the little girl in the street, is the dog which is claimed to be a "pitbull", according to my reading of the articles. Please feel free to correct if I am wrong. And I personally believe that we need the dogs to be correctly identified - ie "black dog " rather than misidentified. Once we have over come the "media" pitbull image, we should move on to discussion re motivation for attacks. It is not the breed which attacks, it is the individual dog, and the reasons for the dog doing that should be identified so steps can be taken to identify the reasons for the attack. While everyone is running around like headless chooks blaming the media pitbull no one has the impetus to do anything effective. JMHO

I don't know about obedience dogs - when I did that,the dogs wouldn't have gone as well for someone else - but they would have been ok. After basic training, while they are still young I let different people run the show dogs occasionally, so they will be comfortable with someone else showing them.

PF I hate to disagree, but in the interests of veracity ---- Naw, they're terrorists, but they are hounds. Dacs = badger : hund = hound. (thought we'd sorted the badger bit ;) just need to sort out the hound bit ) This is typical hound behaviour - independent, forceful, keen to have his way. Normal dacs behaviour, needs standing on, and a firm, consistent manner.

Quite normal. That's why you wormed him, after all!

Re Cavaliers' eyes. This is what the Breed Standard says NOT prominent. IMHO, a dog which will have protruding eyes will show that as a pup.

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My experience is that Cavaliers ae not happy alone during the greater part of the day. For people who work, I think they would be better with 2 Cavaliers - perhaps a puppy and an older Cavalier if you do not want to raise 2 pups together. Cavaliers are gregarious, and do better with companionship. If you cannot provide it, get another cavalier. They seem to recognize and like other cavaliers. Larger dogs are, imho, fine, as long as a boisterous large pup is not allowed to monster a Cavalier. Mine integrate well with the boxers, but I ensure 1/2 grown boxer pups do not annoy the cavs. Brushes - slicker, metal medium toothed comb, pin bristle brush. Also a bristle brush such as a Mason Pearson (you can mortgage your house for one). The comb is fine for the feathers and ears, and for separating the "pin" knots which can form behind the ears. The bristle brush brings the oil from the skin through the hair, which is very good for the coat.

I discussed vac protocols some years ago with a vet I know. His reaction was that if he went with 3 yearly vac, or none after the 3rd, and the dog contracted a virus, he could be legally liable because he hadn't followed the manufacturers protocol, or other guidelines. There was mention of dogs having reactions to vac or developing lymphoma etc, and he said there was no proof, and he would rather go with the "accepted" protocol, where there was no chance he could be sued than do something new and be sued - his odds were better if he stuck to the protocols. I understand that, However, there is now a body of evidence that annual vac can cause harm, and the world small animal vets are against, so I have to wonder whether someone will soon sue a vet or the manufacturer for overvaccinating. I have seen a few cases of AIHA, lymphoma, seizures, ketoneacidoses etc which one would have to consider were produced by the vaccines so I think it is only a matter of time.

Just got to ask yellowgirl - when you "ring around" do you speak to the vet or to the underpaid kid on the front desk? I think you might find that if you actually spoke to the vets in the practice you would get a whole different story than you get from the girl on the phone (I know I do!) ETA: Gotta wonder about the internet hoax thing though! When the MDBA hosted Dr. Dodd's seminars in Australia, I phoned around to gauge support from vets. I only spoke to veterinrians, and the result was 90% totally uninterested. They were not interested in doing anything except annual vacs, and most of those with whom I spoke hadn't heard about "new" vaccination protocols,(since 1998 in North America, wasn't it?) and were appalled that there was some possibility that dogs (and cats) might not be having annual vacs. And they didn;t want to go with it, so whomever Yellow girl spoke to gave her similar responses to those I received. This was raised at an AVA conference some years, but there was no resolution. The AVA was again asked earlier this year if they intended changing the vaccination protocol. The response was that they were "looking into it" *sigh*

I 've only taught this once - when I was a teenager. Standard long dacs. He was obedient in "down", "over" "stay". I pointed my finger like a gun, said "down, bang". over stay - one command at a time. He got it fairly quickly and would soon reliably fall "dead from a run - he simply folded up and lie with his eyes closed, until he heard "live now" Great trick!! He was my show dog. He was elibigle for group at one show, and looking lilke the winner, and my mother showed him - during the out and back for group, there was a "bang" fom the crowd, and from a trot, he folded to the ground and lay there. Everyone thought he had a heart attack - everyone rushed over. My mother did too at first, but then realised what had happened, but didn't know how to get him up. Great consternation in the ring. Judge rushed over. Mother finally remembered how to get him up, finished the workout He got nowhere. My mother blamed me for going "bang". I didn't. The trip home was VERY icy. I never taught another to do it, but on reflection, he was very obedient, and he loved doing it.

Hi cavalierlover, and welcome to the forum. After puppies are wormed, they may pass some darkish bloody looking discharge in their stools. There are numerous rasons for this. One is that the "blood" is dissolved worms, the other is that the wormer may have irritated the bowel lining a little. It depends on the type of wormer used, and the stage of the life cycle of the worm when the worm treatment is given Neither of the above is a problem. If the pup now is passing normal stools, eating and playing normally, and otherwise seems healty, there is nothing to worry about. You could also ask the breeder about problems like this. Most breeders will be only too happy to help you with your enquiry, and put your mind at rest. Don't forget to worm Sally every 2 weeks. Hope you will post us some photos so we can enjoy them!!

Hi Mita, there have been similar studies done over the years, with the same results. I have a couple here - somewhere. I posted one of them here too - years ago. I know I used one in my submission to the gov on BSL before it was introduced. Will see if I can find it. All the research leads to the same conclusions. And common sense and dog knowledge tells us the same thing. When I first joined this forum I shared the "popular" opinion on pit bulls. I had never seen one. I argued that they were killers. I was sent to do some research, which I did. Extensively. I was enlightened. I was converted. I've never read or seen anything (including quite a few pitbulls) to change the opinion the research gave me. Some of the reports on why some dogs attacked should be published more widely. The dog which killed Mrs. Stringer in Toowoomba was a lab x some sort of bull breed, ancestry unknown, acquired from the pound as an adult. The young owner boasted to his friends that he would make it into a killer, and so he did. That dog was touted far and wide as a pitbull via the media, although they knew the truth. I hate to admit this, but I have seen some extremely nasty, dangerous boxers in my time. On bloodlines, they should have been mild, nice dogs. Their upbringing and keeping had overcome their breeding and they were savage dangerous nightmares. Interesting that spaying female dogs is listed as a reason. Must go and read it all now. RSPCA will just love that one!! And the positive trainers will love nt using physical punishment

Kissindra You can join any one you like. I'd phone up the secretary to find out what the club does for the members, and whether that fits in with what you want to do. EG, some clubs hold training nights etc whih are great if you want to show. Not as far as I am aware in Q. Maybe some do, and those shows are publicised only to members. They certainly aren't in the Qld Dog World (which lists all shows in Qld) Some do, some hold their shows at Durack. You could ask the club secretary if you phone them. Clubs are listed towards the end of the Qld Dog World The benefits vary from club to club. Again, phone up and ask. Someone will shoot me for this, but none that I can see, unless the club holds specific events which interest you - ie, fun nights, dinners, club events, training, and you can only find out by asking. No, just a member of the CCCQ. It's good to join a kennel club to support them, but find out first (I keep saying this) what you will get for your membership. Always a good idea to join your breed club. They hold shows, fun days etc. Cav Club in Qld is a good one, worth joining. Specialty shows, fun days etc. Good club :rolleyes: (Jed's not a financial member this year, LOL)

I think I would be using a Mars Coat King with a No. 20 blade for the back coat, shoulders and thighs for a pet cocker, and thinning the hair on the head/ears, and legs, front and back with thinning scissors. You could then cut the hair from the inside of the ears. This will save having to buy clippers. If you have them already, you can clip the head, tops of the ears, and the neck down to the chest for a pet cocker. This will give you "the look" without the work of plucking. Toni Dennis-Harm, who lives in Bathurst, and breeds and shows cockers under the Tarrendayle prefix and is a groomer has put together a comprehensive guide to trimming and grooming a cocker spaniel, which will give you step by step instructions on how to do it. I think it's well worth reading, and probably worth printing out and putting up on the wall when you do trim the pup!! Here's the llink to the informaton. Hope it helps. http://www.geocities.com/paws_with_style_grooming/

Bonnie is better than Supercoat, your pup will do better on it.

Re the anal glands - the vet can show you how to do them. However, if the dog is on a raw diet, and getting bones, the glands are often ok - the "roughage" helps clean them out. Dogs on canned or cooked food often have anal gland problems, so if this is what he has been eating, and you begin giving him bones + chicken necks or wings, you might get some natural improvement, without having to do anything. Mine don't have any problems, they are all fed chicken with bone-in, + raw meaty bones. However, keep on eye on yours, his may just need emptying from time to time, and diet wont make a difference. Re prices - I do charge a little less than $900 - $1000. All dogs are either health tested or clear by parentage. I also guarantee.

Exactly the same as the "annual" one.

It depends on where you read it - some of the informaton on the net is just what the author wanted to write, and he may have no knowledge of the subject at all. There is a lot of information out there, and some of it is very sussy. At least if it is written in a book, the information have been checked and verified by an editor before it is published. I think your vet probably has a good reason for recommeneding sunflower oil. He may have found that it works well with eicosaderm, for instance, where firsh oils don't. Some vegetable oils contain saturated or monosaturated fats which can cause problems if given in excess by interfering with the linoleic and alpha inolenic acids. Safflower oil which contains linoleic acid has only 10% saturated fat, other acceptable polyunsaturated vegetable oils are flaxseed, sesame seed, evening primrose oil, borage oil, sunflower seed oil, and soybean oil. Sunflower is the cheapest, and most readily accessible of these. You can buy it at the supermarket. I feed it, and it promotes nice coats and good hair growth. Linoleic acid is very good for skin problems, and it might be worth checking out a product called "Poly Vite" (made by Rudducks, I think), which should be available from pet shops. It does contain a high proportion of Linoleic acid, and I have found it excellent for skin conditions. But for the moment, there is no reason not to go with what your vet suggested. Sometimes, their experience suggests a particular treatment. And the oil doesn't need to be cold pressed.

I am so sorry to hear about Jessie, troppo, such a shock for you and the oh, particularly the suddeness of it. Sending good thoughts your way for comfort and strength. RIP little Jessie, join my Poppy playing over the bridge.

Sunflower oil has no detrimental effect on dogs - in "normal" doses. May I suggest that it could be better to take the advice of your vet, unless the information you read came from a source as well qualified as your vet.

Bling leads are rooly cruel.

If you are second in your class, keep your eye on the judging, the dog which beat you might get the CC and you will have to go back in to the ring for reserve. Nothing like gossiping with your feet up, and the steward is calling, calling, calling.

I had a dog who did exactly this on leash. Fine with other dogs at their home, or here. Maybe he was picking up my anxiety - ie, I would expect him to lunge, long before he thought about it, so he started thinking about it. He was excellent on lead, but he was a handful when he lunged, barking his fat head off. I got a few friends to help me. Walked him, they walked their dog towards him, but out of range. A fair distance away from him in the beginning when they passed, so he couldn't touch them, and then closer and closer. I sat him, and said "watch, watch", and when he looked at me, I rewarded him. If he went to lunge, I went "uh" and jerked the check chain, again sat him, and rewarded him. And I kept doing it until he would sit and watch me as the dog passed. Took a while, and I ran out of friends, but it did help. He got to the stage where he would sit to be rewarded when other dogs passed, and finally ignored other dogs passing - when he was sitting. Then I let him continue walking, said "watch, watch" when a dog was closing, corrected him with the chain if necessary, "uh" and "watch, watch", rewarded immediately if he ignored the other dog This may not help with your dog, but it worked for me. And I have no idea why he did it - I don't think it was fear, I think it was because he either saw himself as top dog, and was telling them off, or because he thought he was protecting me. And it did take a fair while, and I needed to be 100 consistent, and to be aware of him all the time. Sorry I am not a trainer, probably one of the excellent trainers will have some better ideas. Edited to add: If he came from a breeder, he may not have been walked around the streets much. I have a really big area for the dogs here, and they have extra acres to run loose on. I do make an effort to walk them, or take them for rides in the car, paricularly when they are young. However, it is an effort, and I think some of them would benefit from more walking about. A lot of dogs from breeders may be quite experienced at shows, where they are used to a lot of dogs coming and going, but view an encounter with one dog in a street very differently. Because it is different, and if he has never been in that situation that may be adding to this problem. I'm sorry, that isn't the solution, but sometimes, knowing why they do something is part of the solution.

What IS a whisker whacker?? I do mine (and the dogs) with the clippers I bought from Colin for $100 with a #10 blade. I think a finer blade would be better, but haven't got around to that yet.

lappiemum Not necessarily. I am not particularly in favour of killing anything. I will kill toads, snakes, cockroaches, ticks, fleas, mosquitoes etc without mercy, in my environment, because they all, in one way or another, are detrimental to my and/or the dogs' health and welfare. As far as putting toads in the freezer, it doesn't seem like a nice way to go to me - and how do you measure how much an animal suffers, or doesn't suffer, when it dies? Added to which, it is a lot of work to collect and bag a lot of toads, and I didn't buy by freeezer to fill with a pest species. Squirting them with pine o clean, or Dettol produces very fast results, imho, and causes me the least stress and work - abiout 1/4 of catching and bagging them and putting them into the freezer. And believe me, I certainly can tell the difference between frogs and toads, but I appreciate that others may not. But dead by freezing is just as dead as dead by Pine O Clean, isn't it, whether it is a frog or toad? Unfortunately, Crixovar, my lot like to put their feet on them to make them jump - so they can do it again!!