WreckitWhippet

It doesn't matter who "starts" it when it comes to most Bull breeds and crosses, the point is the majority of them are reactive and will finish what someone else starts. Any dog that has been involved in the death of another, especially the mauling of a much smaller dog, should not be rehomed by "rescue" under any circumstances. The dog is question has proven at the very least to be "reactive" and that it poses a danger to other dogs. I feel very sorry that someone has lost their much loved pet and that dog would never have made it out of my yard and into the hands of another, it would have been a one way trip to the vet to be euth'd.

You might not get a response from Tileda as there's lots of exciting things going on in the world of Whippets this weekend. From a Staffordshire Bull terrier, owner and breeders point of view, I've witnessed a lot of behaviour, similar to the youtube clip and it goes hand in hand with the SBT. I'll try and get the OH to video what happens when I play with one of my boys. He's not vocal all the time but you will see very similar body language.

No aggression that I can see. The body is pretty relaxed, there does appear to be some excitement over whatever it was in the water that the dog put his mouth on. The dog is barking but not maintaining prolonged eye contact, the tail is not up over the back, there's no hackles raised, the dog has not charged. I'd say you'd be pretty safe around that one ( not that you'd pat a strange dog and especially not place your kids near it )

Grab a jar of at least 16+ and 20 if you can get it. It's awesome stuff, next time you think you are getting a tickle in your own throat, do 3 teapsoons a day. I've found that it stops colds and flu's from developing into a throat infection.

I wouldn't do anything for either of them, other than use Manuka Honey 20+ and let them ride it out. Really there's no point in taking him to the vets, he won't need anti-biotics unless there's a secondary infection and you risk spreading the cough to other animals. They should both be isolated in the yard until at least 10 days after the last cough. I give mine a teaspoon of the honey , straight off the spoon, three times a day. We've had KC a few times now. The worst affected have been those vaccinated with C5, the other barely had a cough if anything.

huh? I'd like to know what steps these people took in order to locate the owners, all I got from that was they found a dog, decided to keep it and took it to a vet. Of course it may be a dog that has been dumped but then again there could still be someone out there missing their dog. I'm sure if it is bothering you that much, perhaps you could drop them an email and ask? If they went to all the trouble they went to with regards to medical care, i'm sure they'd have been as diligent in attempting to find out the history of said dog. A video cannot possibly impart all the events and processes that occurred but I'm sure they'd be very pleased at your interest in how they do things. Why do you automatically presume they have found a stray dog and kept it? Done. I presume it because so many of the "do-gooders" out there do it. It happens time and again on DOL , so I'm pretty sure it goes on every day in the rest of the world.

huh? I'd like to know what steps these people took in order to locate the owners, all I got from that was they found a dog, decided to keep it and took it to a vet. Of course it may be a dog that has been dumped but then again there could still be someone out there missing their dog.

So we found a stray, assumed that no one had ever loved, cared for or was missing it and decided to keep it.

I'd be more inclined to think , doesn't want to pay for it, out of their budget and I 100% agree with Leema

I've finally settled on Pro Plan Performance for the race dogs and Canidae for the others. If I can work out feeding amounts and get it stable, I'll make the switch to Canidae for all of them.

I've used ant sand for years. It's so fine that it disappears into cracks and only needs doing every 6 months or so. I've not had to use it for a good 12 months now, the ants have all but gone

Pro Plan Performance as their dry. They also have about 200grams of kennels mince (chicken/beef) and every second day they have either lamb flap or chicken carcass for breakfast, that all depends on when they race. Supplements include White E as a antioxidant, they also have Aminovite GB. If they require an extra boost they have Muscle Pro The most important thing they always have after any run or strenuous exercise is either Vytrate or Recharge. My Staffords are fed in a similar way and are kept fit, however they don't require the supplements. They have either PPP or Canidae and they have more fresh meat on the bone. The key to fitness is a variety of training. They each do 5k's a day on various surfaces. Several days a week I swap that for a free run in the park playing fetch and only do about 2.5k's, one day a weeks it's a swim in the dam until they are buggered and they also run off the bike. It's important to give them a rest day too. ETA: they are fed twice a day when working hard. Meat in the morning, dry at night and they exercise late afternoon and go to bed on full stomachs.

Make that +3 and my vet was going to charge me $110 per pup and do them at 8-10 weeks. Any of my future litters the pets will be done

Some dogs are just born ready to go and don't have an off switch. From my expereinces, yes what you put into them in terms of food and supplements directly affects energy and performance, it's especially evident in my race dogs. And yes energy increases with fitness.

Whilst I wouldn;t call someone at 5am, I get up around that time and assume that most other dog nuts do too. By 7.30am I'd probably be on the phone and calling before work.

I prefer the simple names. After years of naming dogs great names, only to have the mouths go and other show disasters. I decided to name my last Stafford the most boring human name I could come up with, so "Brett" it was. I have a Borzoi called "Pavlova" , my other half said " you'd wanna name him Pav, as you are going to be cooking an effing lot of those for bringing him home "

It's called Suprelorin and as Nek says, you don't use it on growing dogs.

Some of mine will go back to their breeders. A couple will stay with my OH. I have been written into a couple of people's wills, saying that the dogs will be left to me and that I am to keep or rehome them as I see fit, depending on what I feel is best for the dogs. They have the peace of mind that if they did die, the dogs would be desexed if necessay and placed in suitable homes.

Yes, two of them.

I'm in the wrong area to drive her anywhere. I hope someone is prosecuted for that

I'd start by teaching him to focus on you. With mine I use food and a clicker or a clicker and toy, whatever they are most interested. To make it short, put them on a lead, call their name and start by clicking and treating when you have their attention. There's lots of books and suggestions on things you can do, but basically you start without distraction, in your case other dogs and work up from there. Teach your dog to recall and I mean "recall" not just come when it feels like it. If you work on the focus and rewards, you're dog will jump through hoops for you. Don't allow him off lead near other dogs and you take control of the situation. Use a check chain and reprimand him if he goes to mount another dog or postures and dances around and reward the good behaviour and the focus on you. He humps and carries on because you allow it. It's not fun for other dogs and certainly it will end in a fight when a dog takes exception to it and won't tolerate the rude behaviour. It may mean that he doesn't play with other dogs for a long time or he may never get to play again. I don't encourage any of my puppy buyers to socialise their pups in puppy or dog free for alls and think the Staffords do best by learning to focus on you and being indifferent to others out side of their own packs.

Had one of those last year in one of the race dogs. He was bandaged and kept quiet for two weeks and then not allowed to run or jump for 6 weeks. He was fine and went back to racing. He was treated by massage ( the surrounding areas but not that toe ) and we used the laser. That was the advice of our Greyhound vet and our chiro/muscle man.

As I breeder I endeavour to socialise my pups and expose them to as many new noises and situations as I can, within the home and also take them in the car. I've started crate training them and paper training but it's difficult with a litter to do more than that, the actual house training, I leave up to the new owners but I have given the pups a good start, in that they don't piss and crap where they sleep. I introduce them to toys and my other dogs, so they have met and played with a few adults, other than their mother. If I know the name of the pup, I use it and start on the basics of coming to a name. I teach them all to stack and stand, handle their mouths and feet on a daily basis. I trim their nails every week and they have all been bathed before they leave and they readily accept medication ( worm tablets ) I'm not sure what else one can do as a breeder, with limited time, you do the best you can and give the pups the best start to life. I've not had any complaints from puppy buyers about the way I raise the pups and all settle in quickly to their new homes.

for the yards, spray kennels etc with Malaban or Permoxin, and use lime on the grass and dirt areas.

I've said on more than one occassion that I'm happy to take on the Whippet, deal with the issues and find her a suitable home. ETA: just let me know if I'm needed, both of my current fosters have been rehomed and I have house space available