WreckitWhippet

There's a bit of an art to keep the leash just tight enough so that it stays up behind the dogs ears and not so tight as to put pressure on the leash. Once you have worked that out, the puppy can't really bite the leash. That's when you focus all the attention, food and praise at the front of the puppy and encourage it to move with you.

Is it stains around the mouth, on the paws, under the chin and possibly the groin area ? and does she lick a lot ?.

Nothing I type seems right I'm thinking of them all.

I start my babies at six weeks, I use a martingale , rather than a collar and leash and make sure that it's very light weight. I put them on the leash for only a minute or so and let them walk where they would like to, I encourage them to come to me and I pat them, from there I talk all cute and encourage them to foillow me . By 8 weeks my babies are walking with confidence and ready to take on the world.

I'm sure that her little knight in fur, is giving her more comfort and happiness than anyone or any well wishes could. :D

Yes, I'm the the hunt for some more. I'm handling on the weekend and need a new suit for the day

Just feed her, what, where and when YOU choose, put the bowl down give her 15 minutes and if she hasn't finished it, cover the food and give her nothing until the next meal. Cut the treats during the day, until she eats what you give her for a main meal. If you got to snack all day , you wouldn't really want a main meal either. Regardless of a dogs history , they do not dictate where and when you feed them. Save your treats for when she's learning or just being good. Make them very small and use them as rewards, that way she won't/can't stash them away for later. It's not a bad thing that it takes her a while to eat a pigs ear, it will give her something to do. Maybe cut the biscuit treats and stick to large things like the ears/trotters etc, that she can spend time chewing and it won't matter if she comes back for it over the space of a couple of days.

George was obviously close to your heart and loved like one of your own Run free George and Arnie

Run free and pain free. I'm sorry for your loss

It's turned to absolute crap in the last 12 months. It was once a good product, now I wouldn't feed it to a starving dog at the pound. I used it since Bonnie first made it and now I have about 15kg's of it sitting in a container, just waiting to chuck it out. I can't give it away at the moment.

I am assuming short sleeves ? and what colour would be suitable ?

He pees on the floor if he does not have access to the crate. He's not fussy about whose crate he pees in either. I have to keep the door to the others closed, so he doesn't wreck the older dogs beds. I agree about the training , I've had to vary training slightly from dog to dog, but to me house training is a basic not rocket science, except in this case :p

None of my others have a problem just him. All of my adults will toilet when told, so there is hope for him yet ETA: I'm about to take him out again, so fingers crossed I can get him to go

I've had a touch of success, he still won't go outside, I think he'd hold it untill he busted, but I have reprimanded him as soon as he starts and he will now stop mid stream when I do this, so that's a bit of a win. I know what people mean when they talk about fidning the appropriate level, too loud and heavy and you risk him wetting from fright, not enough and he continues on. We will get there. I did try the smaller crate and no bedding but laying where he piddles made no difference to him, he didn;t care about it. Alpha, he's not really one of those piddle cause I'm not sure or piddle cause you got me excited puppies. That would make it easy, take him out the back and get him excited and hey presto

Warley - are you talking about Valium, or about Tryptophan (component of Tranquil paste)? If Valium - then I agree with the above. If Tryptophan, my understanding is that it can be used as part of the dog's "higher carb/lower protein" diet. So I don't see where "timing" comes into it. Sorry, I lost the thread. I'm referring to the tranquil paste, it's advised to be given 24 hours before and then again 4-6 hours before the "event" it's the 4-6 hours that I think my friend adjusts. I'll find out from her if it's the timing on the recommendations or the timing as in how early she would have to get up and give it, for a 9am outing etc.

Yep, one I my close friends has been using it for years on nervous dogs. The only problem she has found, is getting the timing right. I can ask her how much she uses and how long before a show or travel.

Can't teach him to wee on command outside as he only goes inside in the crate or on the floor. Would you suggest teaching him the wee command while he's peeing in his crate ? All the others go out before bed and go to the toilet, he goes with them, they all pee and come back to the door, he can spend a couple of hours out there, you can't praise what doesn't happen. I have seen him pee once outside on the grass and praised him, he looked at me and smiled and went back inside and piddled in his crate.

We've got a nice wee routine happening, it's just the wrong way round. It's not infection related , he urinates just like any other puppy his age , it's just in the wrong place, if he had an infection he would wee frequently in his crate, which he does not do, it's just the initial come inside and wee in the crate. Reprimand I shall. ETA: he eats in his crate

He will go on the grass. He was previously in a kennel situation, but he was let out to toilet and was one of the cleaner puppies in the litter. It's like he saves it up, he can honestly be out there for hours, doing the usual standing and waiting for him to go to the toilet, so you can praise him, just doesn't work. I can catch him in the act of piddling inside, I know it's coming but I don;t know if I should severly reprimand him as he does it or not. Borders are quite soft as far as temperament and don't take punishment all that well. There are some breeds like the Pugs, that you just can't insult but it's easy to put the Borders off. I don;t want to undo all the good work that I have done in other areas, as he's a lovely outgoing boy and confident in the show ring with me.

Ok , my now 4 month old Border baby, has been very difficult to toilet train. He is now fine with telling me that he needs to go out for a poo, no problems there, he cries too me and I know it's time to let him out. I am still having problems with him weeing in the house and the crate. He loves his crate, he races from the back door and dives into it, it's his safe haven and he appears to enjoy being in there, but the minute you let him in the back door, he goes straight in and piddles. It doesn't matter if he's been out side for three minutes or three hours, the second he comes back in the house or crate, he piddles, he has done this since day one. He does not urinate excessively, just the usual baby piddles but he is hell bent on doing it inside. It is now beyond me. He's a smart puppy but he just doesn't get it. He's been the first that I have been unable to toilet train. He's not forced to stay locked in his crate for long periods and he's allowed to come and go from the house as he pleases, he enjoys his own time out the back and entertains himself and at times he seeks company, which he is not denied.

You can feed it cooked or you can feed it raw. What suits you does not suit everyone. I have been using cooked mince, since I have had my dogs, with no problems. It depends on how you expect the mince you use to contribute to your diet. I feed mainly a dry food diet, with hot cooked mince , mixed through the dry ( fed to the dogs when cooled ). The dogs love it and look fantastic on it. They also get frames, wings and necks along with it.

The best thing for you dog, is to bath him or her when they smell. Having said that, if you have a continual odour coming from your dog, that bathing does not get rid of, you will need to look further into diet, possible allergies and skin infections. A dogs skin is far more sensitive and the PH levels differ from us humans, whilst many a dog can tolerate Martha's wool wash, or your expensive hair shampoo, it is less than ideal and certainly not good for your dogs skin. Select a shampoo and conditioner ( if you need one ) that are specifially for dogs, there are hundreds to choose from. A wash once every two weeks is more than enough. Also take the time to do a thorough wash of the dog, wet the dog completely and apply the shampoo one section at a time, add a little more water if need be and get the dog well lathered up, it's important to was between the toes, pay attention to their bum ( yeah not the nicest job but ), give the dog a thorough rinse and a thorough dry. Damp feet can lead to infections and other nasties and drying the dog properly will help to eliminate odour. You can use a doggie deoderant between baths, and you can also freshen the dog up with a warm towel bath.

I will no longer cry, I will remember the good times, my Superman Superman

Have you considered a Pug, from a Canine Council Registered Breeder? Do a little research on the Pug or I'm happy to answer any questions that you may have. The Pug is a wonderful family breed. There is also a world of difference between a " breeder" that is registered with their local council and a " reputable breeder" who will have a prefix from the Canine Council in their state. Whatever breed you choose, do your research, visit some dog shows in your area and have a chat to some breeders about your plans and if their chosen breed, will suit your family situation. Also check if the puppy you are purchasing comes from parents that have had the appropriate health checks for the breed.

Thankyou Tram, I'm still very raw and still hurting. I miss them both every day. Today I thought I heard him bark and was just about to yell at him, when I realised it wasn't him I have made him a movie, but I just can't bring myself to finish it, it hurts too much.