WreckitWhippet

Good on you Warley - your animals will only benefit from your research and decisions. My current litter is the start of happier healthier dogs. It's not an easy decision and I felt for a long time that it was a leap into the unknown, but the more you read and the better understanding you have , blind freddy can see that it's better for your dogs. This also means keeping puppies until they are 10 weeks old but another couple of weeks here is nothing really and the owners of the current pups are excited but the wait has been explained to them, as has what they need to do with regards to vaccinations in the future. Something that I would suggest to breeders is that they discusss early on with the puppy buyers what they will be doing with regards to vaccs and a basic rundown of why. They should also get their puppy buyers to see their vet ( when their puppy is confirmed ) and make sure they have C3 in stock or they can get a vile prior to the next vacc date. I had one of the buyers do that last week, so they knew the vile was at the vets and waiting, they were questioned by the vets why they were not using a hiher vacc than C3. Not last year but the year before, I had my dog trailer full of dogs going for a booster, I had asked the vet prior to the day that c3 be onhand for X amount of dogs, only to get there and find they only had C4. It's fine for adults who can wait another couple fo weeks while they ordered it in but not if you have a baby that needs to be done for the first or second time. I'm hoping that as we educate our puppy buyers, they can educate the vets

I can't feed them to my Greyhound, even a teaspoon of sardine mixed with a meal gives him the runs. I'm thinking of trying the mackeral, i thought fish is fish, but it's worth a go.

My vet was a bit reluctant to discuss vaccination protocol at first, other than what the pharmaceutical companies issue as their standard speil. They too may not speak so frankly to other clients but they have certainly taken my concerns on board and I have discussed my research with them and what protocol I will now be following.

Most of my dogs are on around 80% raw now. I've gradually increased the raw, now that I have a reliable supplier and can keep the freezer stocked. I still haven't made the complete jump with the puppies and I also have one adult who for some reason does not like raw, he prefers his dry food I think I have found a happy meeting of the two foods and the dogs look good too.

My sister Wei reacted badly to a vaccination, he developed numerous complications. I personally would have put him to sleep at the age of two or so but she persisted on as she loved him, he had skin conditions, joint problems, growth plate issues and he ended up being deformed. You could write a novel with his vet notes and she spents tens of thousands on him during his lifetime.

I always put puppies in crates to travel and I've never had one dislike the crate after the first trip home. It's much safer for the puppy, it's also more comfortable as they can lay down and rest and they can also keep cool or curl up in a corner if need be. It's best not to make a fuss when travelling and to simply put them into the crate every time they go in the car and to ignore them, that way the car is not an overstimulating place to be and travel is no big deal.

My puppy buyers are under strict instructions NEVER to have a heart worm imjection and that they are NEVER to go above a c3 vaccination, unless they have to kennel their dogs at some stage and a c5 is required. I look back now and think what I have done to my puppies and adults in the past is horendous and I'm ashamed of it to be honest, but at the time I didn;t know any better and of course followed the vets advice.

I would use a coat king on him and also brush him every couple of days. The people that are washing him, should be brushing him out completley before putting any water on him and also blow drying him 100% to make sure that there are no knots and that his coat is is excellent condition.

I'd be sending a complaint to the VCA for misrepresentation of the breed. I think it's in the COE's

There was a very mild strain on QLD a couple of months ago, just a slight cough and didn;t develop into much .

I used to use both but couldn't get the scurf to go on one of the dogs. I then changed to Performa3 which covers 3,6 and 9 and we've not looked back.

I don't measure my ACV as Peibe does, I just place a small splash in a 5 litre bowl. I don't think it would be more than 20 ml for the big bowl and even that small amount works. We have no burn marks with 9 adults and 2 pups weeing on it.

Babies should only have C3 vaccs and upgrade later if they are required for kennels.

vaccinating against it is a total waste of time and money. The times KC has been through here, those who were vaccinated were the worst affected. They are easily treated with cough medicine to suppress the cough and keep an eye on them for any discharge, as long as everything is running clear and the cough does not become chesty, then they will be over it in a week or so. You are better off saving your $$ on the vacc and keeping a bottle of cough medicine on hand.

No my BM and Dobe got them too and also one of the Frenchies.

Mine while Warley plugs along , with her piece of crap... I'm coming to use yours Bom I'll even bath and dry your before I do my own

Sweet dreams forever Amy

I've been asked to clip one and a Rotti too. I refused. I advised them that a good brush, bath, condition and blow dry will get rid of the loose coat and it will thin out with time anyway. The dog is not going to be more comfortable clipped, he's just going to have his skin exposed to the sun and lose the insulation and protection he would otherwise have. As far as I'm concerned they can take their dog and money elsewhere, if they choose to ignore my advice

I have had problems with mince from there, smelling like bleach or chlorine ( no I'm not joking ). ;)

I'd be telling the vet to talk to you about nutrition if Your dog has a tartar build up, your dog does not have a glossy coat, if your dog is showing any sings of allergy, if you are there for any reason other routine vaccs or emergency treatment, if your dog is scratching, vomiting or has loose bow motions, is obese or seriously underweight If you are presenting a happy healthy dog at each visit, then I'd tell him to take a hike

Pet meat here for the mature dogs. Have never had a problem with it. I will buy human grade wings and thigh when they are on sale at the butchers. When weaning the babies, it's human grade only.

Dog proof the chook yard or suffer the consequences of prey drive and develop some consistancy when it comes to the training.

I have a constant battle with a very active Pointer male, has been the case since he was little. He is fed two meals a day of dry with a stew mixed through and he also gets lamb flaps. If you have ruled out medical conditions , then it's just one of those things and you need to find a diet that works for that dog. It took me a while to get this boy right but he stays covered now.

You need to find a scent and alcohol free wipe.

Try something like Episoothe or Malaseb. I only bath Houndee every now and then, I spend about a half an hour a day with the stripping knife , stripping coat and that has made a big diffence. Some owners have said to me that their Hound coats have taken months and months to strip and get into top condition. I'd bath her in something medicated, start the performa 3 and then not bath her again for at least a month. It's a bit hard to put up with but you will get the results in the end. P.S Houndee was very bald over the thighs and the inner thigh, he came good in a couple of months. I wish I had before and after pics.