WreckitWhippet

sounds like a disgruntled "trainer" who's not getting their share of the action For the record, I've referred a few "average pet owners" onto K9, amongst others, so far I've heard nothing but positives about him and he's certainly well in touch with average Joe and their dog.

Clean them and sit them out in the sun for a couple of days as well. There would be a bigger risk associated with parvo remaining in the ground, than your crates.

Bleach or F10 Did I send you a link for well priced crates ? I can't remember

be prepared to waste hours getting the shot..

Depends on your type of flooring but you could give him a treat ball ( Buster cube ), which you put dry food or treats in and he can roll it around the floor. If you feed dry you can put an entire meal in there and give it to him while you're doing other things. We don't have many toys in the house, if they get a bit carried away or have too much energy we do some training indoors. Grab a hand full of treats and teach him a new trick or practice some of your existing commands.

mine sleep inside at night but I frequently hear my dogs racing up and down the back verandah last thing at night before bed and it's an activity not reserved for puppies only. They also do it on their own and don't need the others to egg them on

so does having them all in a run or pen and having a second person call them towards them. You only get one crack at it as they go past but it's so worth trying

The Stafford pups get stuck in from about 6 or so weeks and by 8 they are well on their way to consuming carcass, as are the Pointers. Carcass can be twisted in half, grab the front in one hand and the back in the other and they will come apart. Larger portions encourage chewing and not to swallow things whole. there's no need to mash a pups food.

It would cost the breeder around $26 to obtain papers for your puppy. here's a recent thread from the breeders forum on that very topic http://www.dolforums.com.au/index.php?showtopic=166701 Personally i'd walk away from any breeder who does not provide you with limit register papers for your puppy, regarldess of the CC requirements

There are buyers who go to the extremes as well and basically buy a whole heap of crap that they will never use or the pup never plays with , so it does work both ways

Hi PPS, I'm not being obnoxious. but what do you mean? I am not poor, I have vet bills etc covered. I have its bed(quite safe) and its pen, as well as quality puppy food. I am asking for ideas on how to cut costs with some things, but obviously if i feel cutting the costs on something with endanger the pup i won't do it. Some of the suggestions in the thread are for items that I'd consider dangerous for a puppy or a false ecomony so to speak. Not that you have taken them all onboard but others might. I would prefer to hang onto a puppy for an extra week or so , if one of my buyers found themselves in a similar situation to you, so they could purchase the items that they need. Many of the things such as crates, pens, leads , bowls etc could be a one of purchase that would last the puppy a life time.

A word of warning, bean bags and dogs can be a very dangerous combination. Given that the bags are easily busted open. The beans seem to gain a static charge and stick to the dogs and apart from being eaten there is a risk of inhalation. Cheap toys also pose a danger, pups and dogs are better off going without, rather than ripping apart and chewing up cheap toys. I'd be calling the breeder and asking can you leave the puppy there for an extra week, until you can sort out it's basic needs and ensure it's safety.

I'd look for a second opinion and exhaust the other options suggested to you, then if they do not work, in the interest of the dogs health I'd collect semen and then desex.

ummm yeah that's a better way to put it.

I guess it might mean something a little different to everyone but to me " condition" takes in to account body fat, muscle mass, coat texture and shine, the teeth, eyes, nails

Absolutely.. Release only those dogs with stable temperaments back into the community and given the reputation of the breed, dogs that have passed the criteria are far more likely to be adopted, given that they can sit, stay , drop and have a recall. A basic level of training makes them far more appealing to the general public , screening also reduces any potential risk. If resources were available I'd like to see every shelter and pound in this country implement such a program, sadly there are not the people, $$ or the time. Many of the rescues are now working in conjunction with the pounds and have basic temp testing in place. This is going a long way to ensure that the dogs from those pounds are indeed suitable for adoption and if they do have problems that present at the time of testing, potential owners can be advised as to the nature of the issue and make an informed choice should they choose to adopt.

Start running........

For those size 8's looking for a super special skirt suit. There's an Anthea Crawford in my local op shop for $25. It is truly stunning, in a grey ( I'd say light to mid grey ), the material I think is a silk . It has a longer style skirt but would be fine for the slower moving dogs or it could be altered. It's trimmed around the bottom of the arms and the skirt in a dark blue pattern. I'm happy to grab it next week if anyone wants it ETA: I'm trying to find a pic of it

I get mine in bulk in NSW for $17 per 10kg's, they tend to be cut into about 8 inch long pieces and I get a lot of roo pieces for my $17

Not sure , it's quite possible , as there are a number of people who are authorised to collect

Out of interest is your vey going to charge you to swab the pup ? Authorised collectors are often available at shows as well.

The chips won't kill him, only the packet. Just give him plenty of water and be prepared for a 2am toilet stop when he gets a gut ache

How are they supposed to grow and mature if living on lino for 9 hours 5 days a week ?

Yes, they get used to it, but being locked in the house is no life for a baby puppy, they need fresh air and sunshine

If your puppy is from parents that have been DNA tetsed for L2-HGA & HC and they are clear, your puppy WILL be clear. That's the whole idea of testing. If you want a clear by birth cert, you need to provide the details of the parents chips on the form that is submitted with your sample, so the existing data can be used. Is your puppy main registered ?