WreckitWhippet

Just keep up with the good diet, bath them if they are dirty and it will come back soon enough.

Any luck with getting a full list off the ANKC or the CC's yet ?

My Pointers run and run and then run some more. We keep weight on them by feeding chicken wings and lamb flaps as their basic meet and we feed Royal Canin as their dry. I've also found that Optimum Puppy dry ( chicken ) works a treat.

Mine like their Cauli crumbed and fried

" ohhhh look there's a St Bernard " I could understand if they's said Bull Mastiff but it was indeed a Mastiff. You get it all the time, the best you can do is smile nicely and tell them what the breed really is.

If you are going to feed raw and kibble, they digest at different rates so don't feed them together at the same time. If your puppy is not rolling fat or skinny on what you are feeding now, it's fine. Puppies have rapid growth spurts throughout their development and you will find in the first 9 months or so, that you are constantly adjusting the amounts that you are feeding. There's no hard and fast rules and feeding tables are useless as every pup is different.

Some bitches will also hump prior to coming into season.

Should mature dogs only be allowed to be advertised on DOL if they're desexed? I'd say yes. so we should not be able to sell any main register dogs or bitches that are suitable for the show ring ? If the dog or bitch is not of show /breeding quality , then by all means desex before rehoming but there's nothing wrong with selling a mature animal to an approved home, it's no different to selling a puppy, other than the mature animal can be viewed.

I've done it without a second thought. A kick from me is preferable to what my dogs could potentially do to one that aggressively invaded their space while out walking.

Why not invest in something like these, you will have it forever, place a warm kennel in there, provide shade and it's always going to provide somewhere for your dog. http://www.colwesternsheds.com.au/page/dog...nels__pens.html http://vebopet.cart.net.au/store/4%20Metre...%20Tall%5D.html http://dogmaster.com.au/cat/index.cgi/shop...CFQQupAodPxtGbg There's plenty of others available, we've got a pet safe run that would be more than suitable for a Cav and also a few Kramar runs.

How big was the bottle ? we pay about $18 for it and I think it's about 200mls ETA: I can see you are talking about litres now. We get a litre for $50 from memory.

Cut him back to two meals a day. You can give him chicken wings,carcass, lamb flap, lamb necks ,( whole pieces not the chops ),pieces of roo tail, turkey wing ( you'll have to cut them at the joint as they are huge ) and other meaty bones. I have dogs and pups here that have worked out very quickly that raw is more enjoyable. You can add more raw to his diet and keep it simple, just keep it as close to whole as you can.

Welcome to the world of owning a dog with some "drive". I'd suggest some formal sessions with a trainer that help you to "harness the power". They can show you how to use your dogs drive and energy to your advantage, rather than allowing it to create the frustrations that you are experiencing.

I would arm yourself with yummy treats , toys or anything that she finds interesting and pop out in the back yard. Put the collar on her and wait for her to get up and do something. She can't sit there forever and it will get boring, that's when you can start with the toys and playing with her. When she starts moving about with the collar on, encourage her to follow you on the left and give her little treats and lots of praise when she gets close enough to you. Next step is to add the leash ( this might be in a few days when she's ignoring the collar ) . I'm not much of a fan of having pups drag leads around behind them. I prefer to put it on ( make sure it's a light weight leash with a light clip ) and lift the leash up behind the pups head ( not tight but just take the bulk of the slack out of it ), from there I feed them little treats or play with a little toy infront of them. Whatever takes the mind off the leash. Next step is the same as with the collar, keep the lead up and encourage the pup to go with you, reward and praise when the pup is walking.

We PTS at birth any pups with hare lips or cleft palates. The amount of time and energy that goes into raising them ( if they make it ) can be detrimental to the rest of the litter. If they do survive, they then require surgery. I personally do not think it fair to prolong the life of such a puppy.

We only ever use c3 for every vaccination. We don't board our dogs and given that Kennel Cough is basically the common cold for dogs, there's little point vaccinating against it.

The space would be fine, providing you are prepared to put in the time for exercise, play and training. However there's a big difference in the play styles of the Stafford and a little Toy dog. SBT's usually play hard and fast. As puppies they know few boundaries and I would fear that your Malt cross would be the recipient of some unwanted and over the top play, when you aren't around to supervise the interaction. If you were able to build a run to keep the seperate when you aren't home, it would probably be fine.

Too many people whacking on prong collars, "really giving it to them" with check chains and handing out the discipline. Not enough people praising their dogs and rewarding them, when they actually get it right. I take the opportunity to tell my dogs they are good and to praise them when we are out walking. It strengthens the bonds between us and it's lovely to see them bright eyed and wagging their tails, when you tell them they are good dogs, or drop the hand down for a quick rub under the chin.

No thanks, I don't subscibe to the it's a bull breed, lets whack a prong collar on it or "give it to him hard" school of training.

where's the reward ? i only ever rewarded when she walked without pulling on about two walks, i not going to reward every time, no need Right so while your marching backwards and forwards doing about turns, are there any rewards during this time ? How does the dog know when it is in the "right" position and is pleasing you ?

Should dangerous dogs be allowed around children, and should dangerous dogs that attack people be destroyed? Have your say below... Of course "dangerous" dogs don't belong around children or in the community full stop. If you already have a dog that's been declared "danergous" and it attacks anything, the dog should be destroyed and the owner be punished with the full weight of the law. There are some very hefty fines and jail terms that can be handed down, it's about time they were used.

where's the reward ?

You need someone who knows how to use one properly to show you where to postion it ( make sure it's the right size and weight for the dog ), how to use it correctly ( the correct motions ) and also the timing. They need not be harsh or cruel and they should certainly not choke your dog. There is also plenty of opportunity to reward the pup when he gets it "right".

Check chain ?

jam packets from Macca's Dogs were feeling displaced when we first moved so I put them in the car in the driveway ( they felt happier in there ). They raided the jam packets and I came out to one with the packet between his feet, squeezing it into his mouth. Other dog simply spread it all over the seats