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WreckitWhippet

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Everything posted by WreckitWhippet

  1. For some reason all logic and common sense appears to go out the window when it comes to the cross breds, their coat types and grooming requirements. I have had people stand in front of me and tell me they didn't buy a Poodle because it required grooming and for some reason, they thought the matted mess they just presented to me wouldn't ...
  2. Moral of the story, if you purchase a ( insert x here ) you'll either need to learn to groom yourself or be prepared to head off to the groomers every 6-12 weeks, depending on how much time you spend attempting to keep the mats out inbetween. I really should have taken a pic of the fleece that came off that dog. It was very heavy and perhaps the most coat I've ever taken off one dog. Several DOLers saw that one and were shocked at the condition it was in
  3. Under the CAA, for NSW it's four. It doesn't matter if it's your business or you are just an every day owner, breeder or whatever
  4. I did a cav cross poodle the other week, that was quite likely worse than that one. She was blind, from the hair growing over her eyes, here ears were stuck to her head, her tail to her body and her urine and poo, well you can imagine the rest. 3 hours it took just to free her from her coat and yep, her owners purchased her because she would be non shedding and laid back. They got a mongrel of a coat to groom and a hpyer pup, that became a hyper dog and then got chucked in the back yard.
  5. I agree and encourage it too. I keep a pocket full of poo bags, just in case one decides to go in the ring or on the way. I've handed over a few to fellow exhibitors when they've had the misfortune of theirs going during judging.
  6. don't just stop at putting stuff on the dogs. Get yourself some "enviro" fly traps of something similar and place them around your yard ( safely up and away from the dogs ) they make a huge difference. I've also found that eucalyptus oil mixed with water , in a spray bottle, keeps the flies off the brick work around my verandah.
  7. Ask Bretty about when I'm a scary monster.. and there's no game involved
  8. IMO if the pup has a sound, solid temperament to start with getting it after 8 weeks does not make a lot of difference. Especially if the breeder has put in the hard yards and to be honest, if they have, it's much easier that taking on an 8 week old.
  9. You can assist the conversation to flow from one topic to another and people will naturally tell you about where their dogs sleep, how much time they spend in the house, what they feed them, which vet they use and the list goes on. If you go through a big list of questions, you will just get told what they think you want to hear, by the way of rehearsed answers or they think it's some kind of test or attempt to trip them up. Just having a chat will also highlight in many cases, what they don't know and the areas where they will need more guidance. I've just had the conversation with the new puppy owners about " how they would like to feed their puppy ". I ask this way, as it highlights straight away what they know about diet and nutrition, I can make suggestions regarding tweaking their plans and also I can introduce the pups to certain things before they leave home. If you can talk about every topic ( whilst ticking off your check list ) in this way, you'll learn so much about the potential new owners. It also makes them feel involved and they are far more likely to follow your suggestions and come back for help , if you do decide to sell them a pup.
  10. I prefer the " let's go attitude " and the hype in all of my puppies and adults. What I won't tolerate is stupidity, mouthing and screwing about when I want to handle them, put them on the vet table, rug them, pick them up, cut their nails etc. I happily egg them on and encourage them during training and play, but when it's time for "hands on " , everything is done slowly and in a calm manner. I never rough up a puppy and would smack anyone who dared come into my home and do it. ETA: I spend hours and hours sitting in the bottom of the whelping box, with pups on my lap from the time they are born and i think it makes a huge difference later on.
  11. Repel-X spray. You can buy it in bulk too. http://www.horsesuppliesdirect.com.au/category15_1.htm#443
  12. Let them do all the talking, get them started and it's amazing about what people will tell you, about how they've treated their dogs in the past and what has happened to them.
  13. I don't really understand this. The places were already not pet friendly - nothing changed, these people just snuck their dogs in because they couldn't have them legitimately. The only thing that might have changed is that if there were any perceivable signs left, the motel owners may have upped their checks and vigilance. Not sure how this would affect the places that do allow pets? I've read the post several times now and I still don't get it. It goes like this... Many motels have never allowed pets in rooms, but they would let them stay in the car or in the dog trailers, providing they were quiet and the owners cleaned up after them and respected the other guests. Dog owners think that the no pets in rooms rule doesn't apply to them. Management finds that dogs have been in rooms and promptly set about banning all pets from the premises and that includes cars and trailers, just to be sure it. Or there are the establishments that did allow pets in rooms and then for whatever reason no longer permitt it. They continued to allow pets in cars/trailers, providing guests respected the rules and other guests. Some owners again thought the rules didn't apply to them, so now it's no pets at all, full stop. Some were willing to accomodate and even bend over backwards to cater for pet owners but got screwed over time and again, so now it's really hard to find anywhere in some places that will accept dogs and it bloody sucks. The blame rests squarely with those who think rules don;t apply to them and their pet.
  14. Poodlefan yep and when you'd like to stay in a nice motel especially in the middle of winter or summer and are forced to camp, because someone has screwed it up for you and the motel won't even accept a car with one dog or a trailer on the grounds. some owners are still very accomodating, but those are becoming more few and far between. ETA: sorry if we left any fluff behind LOL
  15. YOU people are the very reason that motels, van parks, cabins and every other form of accomodation have banned dogs over the years and now even refuse to accept those of us, who would never dream of breaking not only the establishment rules or any legislation... If you want to travel with your pet, plan your trip, book places that accept pets or set you car/trailer up to accommodate... Stop screwing it up for the rest of us
  16. I must say I'm beginning to feel very disappointed, the NSW rep for Black Hawk, told me on the weekend that the new batch will contain emu oil. No worries about that, products change from time to time but it looks like I may as well go and buy Natures Gift lamb and rice adult.
  17. it looks like I might be able to get my "black hawk" in a local shop, just with a different name and won't have to go to the trouble of getting it delivered and buying in bulk.
  18. I feel the same way. I like to make educated and informed decisions and don't just consider how well the dog does on it, but who manufactures a product, where it's made etc. There are other foods that I won't use because of who makes them, where they are made or who distributes them. I'd like to know Black Hawk is manufactured in Australia, it is an exclusive formula, kept in plain packaging to keep costs low so that its affordable for all. I under stand that , I get there's no fancy packaging and you don't pay for marketing etc. The question has now been answered
  19. I feel the same way. I like to make educated and informed decisions and don't just consider how well the dog does on it, but who manufactures a product, where it's made etc. There are other foods that I won't use because of who makes them, where they are made or who distributes them. I'd like to know
  20. Earlier is not better, it's convenient and that's about it. There's no difference between desexing at 6 weeks and desexing at 6 months. There are benefits in delaying spey/neuter. If you want your dog to reach it's full potential and/or you are planning on doing any sports, then it's wise to leave the spey/neutering until the puppy has stopped growing. Dogs and bitches that are desexed earlier, can and do grow taller, then tend to look more weedy than animals that have been allowed to mature and you will certainly see differences in the heads ( especially in the bull breeds ).
  21. well I can see your point. The exisiting dog may not accept a new puppy into the home and I can see the potential for issues to arise if one sleeps on the bed, is carried around by the child and is the one taken on walks etc.
  22. There's always the what-if's when it comes to the existing dog accepting a new puppy into the home. I wouldn't suggest a Westie or Cairn but rather a Norwich or a Norfolk. They are happy, robust little Terriers, there would most likely be a wait for one. I have reservations about letting kids hold the leads of dogs anywhere that is not fully fenced but the call was for breed suggestion.
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