Salukifan

Here's one of that timid Whippet avoiding a child.

Yep and fleeing a Vizsla this time. As you can see this is one "shy" dog :cool:

And again demonstrating avoidance behaviour with GSP

Ah yes, timid sighthounds... how quickly we forget. Here's evidence of research validated timidity Exhibit A: Whippet flees in terror from equally frightened Deerhound Pup

Lots of competition in Whippets and whilst it's not an expensive breed as far as purebred dogs go, I'd honestly wonder about anyone selling you a show prospect for under $500. Can't say it wouldn't happen but it does seem unlikely.

No breeds shed more than the short coated ones It could be worse - you could have Pugs or JRTs.

I think the Lakeland would be described as a low shedding rather than non-shedding.

I think that story is utter baloney and the footage I've seen looks more like someone working a young fighting dog on a bait dog than anything else. Pro dog fighting sickos getting their jollies IMO.

Lakelands are another Terrier you could consider.

They wont be shy, will they?

I'd say most of the quality breeders are charging $800 to $1,000. Some will charge a few hundred more for show prospects. My friend has just sold the last of her litter. Each pup was sold for $1,000. Quality parents (both titled), pups paper trained, lead trained, all the usual vaccinations and chip and a puppy pack including food, toys, bed etc. I know how much work has gone into raising that litter and they are a good bargain for that price. You'd be better starting with showing (which you can do with a baby puppy) and then obedience and agility. Always good to get them showing as babies. If you want show quality, be patient. Good pups don't grow on trees and not all breeders will sell to show homes.

Easy to judge until the day you're standing in the shoes of the witnesses. Most would only help if they thought they could. Fewer would help even though they'd have considered themselves at risk. And some, would simply freeze. Frankly the video may be the most useful thing done in the end. Its a record of both the attack and the dogs that did it.

You're going to have to balance your requirement for a dog that can cope on its own while you work with your need for a people focussed, biddible dog. - Where you decide to rule that line will inform the breed you chose IMO because the two don't generally sit all that well together. ANY breed can be made to work if you are prepared to put the time and effort in. It may necessitate some adjustments during a pup's early months and frankly, choice of individual dog is going to be as important as breed. That's why you're going to need a knowledgeable breeder to assist your choice. You're going to want a laid back pup, not the demon of the litter from the sound of things. If the dog will have some access inside, a smaller, more biddable kind of dog might be the go. Frankly, whoever suggested a poodle wasn't wide of the mark from where I sit - probably a Miniature. Once past early puppy needs, they'll doze the day away but expect to be a full part of your life when you are around. On the other hand, some of the hound breeds might be less inclined to fret when left on their own but far more inclined to give you the middle finger when offlead and something attracts their attention. A trip to a decent dog show is probably going to open your eyes to breeds you hadn't considered. Actually, I wonder if a Keeshond could be one you should consider.

Strongly recommend you upgrade that to "definitely". If you cannot give the dog your undivided focus, the leash is the go. In with people that may or may not share your love of dogs, then the leash becomes protection for your dog.

And most of which requires considerable training and proofing. Most gundogs I know, if left alone up to 10 hours a day as youngsters, will make what a Jap Spitz can do to a backyard look lke gardening.

Just don't be surprised if it doesn't work. SBTs are tenacious and not easily deterred. A leash is a better bet until you've absolutely proofed a sit and a recall. Are the kids permanent residents or visitors? Its not clear from your posts.

Can I just say that no matter whether or not your dog is inclined to stay with you and no matter how well you've trained a recall, I'd not trust a dogs' life to it. Roads, remote control aircraft, non-dog friendly folk at remote control aircraft events, small kids - all pose a risk to the life and safety of your dog. Frankly you're better off assuming your dog will bugger off and managing it accordingly. They live longer that way. When you are away from road and major distractions, or in a secure space AND your dog has your complete focus then offlead becomes doable, particuarly if the dog has a good recall. Otherwise? Nope, no way.

Finnish Lapphund If I were ever to get a Spitz breed, it would be this one. A tad more trainable IMO than most spitzs and basically a really cool dog. :cool: If you want a pup, I'd suggest arranging that someone can visit during the lunch hour for the first month or so to feed and check the pup. As for the flying events, I'd be keeping any breed tethered or crated. Propellers and dogs are a disastrous combination in any size. ETA: Maybe a bit big but still the one I'd recommend for this home.

Easy way to check how warm their crates are would be to add a thermometer for a couple of nights and check it very first thing in the morning.

I think a mini could work for you but if you don't like the ones you've met, another breed is the go. I find the more training and exercise they get, the happier they are. They need the stimulation and just being a lap dog can lead to a lot of issues. However, they are quite tough little dogs. Don't tend to be many health issues and most live to a good age. Just stick to black or brown - the rarer the colour, the more highly strung the dog IMO.

Fair enough. We like what we like.

Temperament or hairstyles put you off? Reason I'm asking is I know a few folk with kelpies and poodles and they really like both breeds.

Where do they sleep? Coating or improving the warmth of kennelling can also make a massive difference in terms of weight.

The Active has 22% fat - that's the one to go for.

My guess is that the Black Hawk, at 17% fat, is simply too low in fat. Switch to a "performance" food in any of the better brands. I'd be going for anything 20% fat or better. The higher fat Royal Canins tend to be popular with those with dogs with very high energy requirements. Some lamb flaps and perhaps even something like organic coconut oil might help.