Mystiqview

Who knows why she ate it. It could of had a problem, it could of been mistaken for a placenta, or she was stressed. She was watched carefully after that, but no signs of any aggression. If anything she was a I will do what I absolutely have to do and no more kind of mother. She would clean and feed them, but if they were asleep and content she was out of the box with the people.

Think it comes down to luck or lack of it. That male amstaff at the back of us at Stafford, could have walked over that fence if he was inclined to. Even with my own entire male there. I have not had a hard time keeping them separate or locking them up. I don't take any unnecessary risks either. During the key days, both my boy and my bitch are locked up - the last picture show why. Bitch's box #1 Bitch's box #2 Back of bitches box #2 when boy is allowed to be out. This is why mine are all on concrete or pavers....

yep

I read the thread. I did read the bit about three days and signs of improvement. Great news. I also picked up on the Kikuyu grass on the front lawn that no one else had picked up on (Kikuyu grass and known allergy) - so concentrating on the wandering dew. I have 5 acres of kikuyu here from when our place was part of a dairy. It was waist high when we first bought the block. The OP, keeps to also changing "treatmet" for something else every other post. I am sure there will be many more who will continue to use vinegar as the beaches have bottles up there for stingers. But goes to show, an old well used remedy no is now longer proved to be potentially more harmful - even though it eases the pain. Just hope the OP sticks to what they are on now and does not read something else on google and tries that before letting their current "treatment" have a chance to do something.

That one - we think she actually ate it - left no trace as I had cleaned the soiled paper up from the last pup born. There was no sign of it anywhere. At first, we even were wondering if we counted right.

I can appreciate this. I had a bitch who had complete uterin inertia on her first litter and needed a C-sect. The vet emergency tried two half shot of Oxy, one muscular an done IV to encourage contractions and get it to happen natually to no avail. They advised, if I had bred her again, it would more than likely happen again. Not fair on the bitch, not fair on the pups so she was later desexed. I know others who would have bred her again no qualms and gone through another C-sect, just to produce a litter. I was told by a few to let her go again. To really what avail? I had another bitch kill one puppy during whelping on her fist litter. She pushed out the first four, rested a bit, so put the pups on her. All was good, walked to the other side of the counter to pour water in my coffee cup, when I saw her contracting again. Went to move the pups out of the box to give her room to only find three pups. This was the only time she did this. She went onto raise the remaining litter of 11 perfectly fine. (13 pups for a border collie on her fist litter is one damn large litter - one pup was died a few days later, was very small to begin with). She went onto produce three more litters perfectly fine, although the last two required C-sections. She was desexed on the table at the last litter.

I have one set of geib scissors that I have had for awhile. I used to have Walh straights which were been good. The wahl curved were crap from the beginning. Big dead spot in the middle and never could keep an edge. I used to have a pair of walh thinners. They went walk about at a show, along with some of my other good grooming gear. Those Jikos are not too bad- and for what I use them for now, they do the job.

Wandering dew could not just be the problem. Kikuyu and Pasphalam are both known grass allergies. You mentioned you have Kikuyu in the front yard. So also look at that. Couple of weblinks: This is from a 2 minute google search on grass allergies in dogs. The first one is written from the company that makes Malasab. The second is from the gardener. I used to have a a better list of plants/trees/grasses that were common allergins to dogs (and people) but cannot find it. It may be even old fashioned hard copy. http://www.dermcare.com.au/allergy-information http://www.burkesbackyard.com.au/factsheets/Pets-Pet-Care-and-Native-Animals/Pet-Allergies/2905 I agree with others - stop putting a multitude of chemicals on your dog. You don't know if one will react to the other or even if it is helping or doing nothing. It is not good and you are not waiting for any one product to even try to work before you are trying something else. Even so far as the vinegar is concerned - I am not saying it won't work in this situation, but they have found recent research in box jellyfish stings up in Nth QLD that while it relieves the pain, it triggers another reaction in the poison/toxin to make it worse. And FFS listen to some of the advice on here before going off googling something else. Your dog from what is said has a contact allergy to something. So why the hell are you allowing the dog to go out to the horse paddock or other grassed areas when it would seem a grass somewhere is causing the problem? Most of us on here also work. But with something like this - get the dog off the grass for a week. Build a pen, lock him in the garage or something where he cannot get onto the grass to first re-inflame his existing allergy and secondly stop him getting more reactions to what ever he is reacting to. It also seems strange your vet is (from your comments) chopping and changing frequently. Is it really vet advice or are you just saying this on here to back up your new idea? If you see a different vet, for FFS give them the whole story, don't miss out anything. Make a diary of what you have done and when you have done it. Constantly changing his diet will not help either. If it is a grain diet - chopping and changing his food is not going to help. Even holistic brands can contain grain. He may be allergic to something else in the food, an additive, preservative or something that may not even be on the packet that was used in the processing of the food. He may also be sensitive to something you are giving him in human food. Dairy (yoghurt), a meat or who knows.

What part of your border collies do you use youre's on ?? Ear fluff mainly - in particular behind the ears to thin it out. I had one BC who used to have exceptional long ear hair that loved to matt. While I did pull the dead hair out, however thinning it also helped with it matting. I have also used it on my red boy - particularly on the crown of the rump to thin out the rump hair for showing. He has a dryer, and almost near coarser coat that is short and very wavy. I have found thinning a little out the under coat it helps with the top coat to sit flatter and better. I have also used it to trim matts, and also pantaloons to thin them out - especially in summer when they are swimming all the time and it is matting up with the dirt etc. Trimming feet. Don't use it religiously, but they are useful for the grooming kit You can get one and two way thinning (ie thinning blades on both sides) - only get the single sided - they don't take as much. You can always take more, but it harder to put it back if you take too much. here is a listing on ebay for the scissors: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/jico-6-Hairdressing-Thinning-Scissors-Shears-Razor-Edge-Jap-Steel-Titanium-/150939229104?pt=AU_HairRemoval&hash=item2324addbb0

those stop gulp bowls are good if a dog gulps their food. Also putting 1/4 - 1/2 (depending on dog size) of a brick or two in the bowl does the same thing.

I used to have a protection trained Doberman that was chased around the yard by a baby gosling just getting its adult pin feathers . So anything is possible. Of the breed you listed in your first post, most of those should be fine with cats. But as everyone has pointed out, it really comes down to the individual dog and cat. Even if your source a pup from a breeder who also has cats, the individual pup you have may not do well with cats. A working dog, even one such as a border collie - it is a fine line working the the instinct to herd to bring a animal to you and herd an animal to eat. Very similar traits are being used. There are many working dogs who are out down because they crossed that line. Old farmer belief, that once they taste blood there is no going back. Look at the breed and type of dog you would like first then, look deeper towards finding one that will be good with cats from a breeder. As you already have cats, they will probably be more upset at the new interloper than a pup will be with a cantankerous old cat. Sure it will be good to chase, but with training they will know the rules

Old one or maybe even belief to reinforce you are top dog and that you are the food provider. Also supposed to teach them that they do not have to fight for food. Mine are taught wait and free at dinner time. I used to have dobes and mine were always taught manners. Never had a food resource guarder. My ex used to have one husky bitch who used to resource guard. He never tried to correct it, just dealt and fed them separately. In that, he took the easy way out. Makes it harder to feed when out camping unless you pack crates and put one here and one there. (More crap to pack) However just by feeding separately, it only treats the symptoms, not fixes the issue. Yes, feeding in crates and in other rooms or out of sight is a sure way of stopping food resource. However also constantly feeding in crate can also create or lead into crate guarding. The crate is become a higher value to the dog and if already showing protective signs, it can add the craters to food. The amount of times where I have seen dogs at shows being overalls possessive of their crate or trolley is just incredible. As soon as a dog goes any where near or walks past (and not just closely) and the dog goes berserk and bites and snaps at the bars is not a good look to see at a dog show. If put in a situation where they can't be fed separately ( use kennel situation where a family of dogs are often kennelled together - and right next to another kennel of dogs, you want them to not have the risk of food fighting. My old dobe was like that. Hand a long haired shepherd in the run next to him that used to go berserk at food time, and since then, he hated long haired shepherds. My current four Bcs are fed separately and often in the same room. They are supervised, and there is no resource guarding. When I have pups in the house and they may go near an oldies bowl, it is carefully supervised. I will allow some growling by the oldie to the pup, as it is teaching dog manners, if it starts to get more serious, I remove pup. Tell the oldie enough if growling is getting more serious and then reward it with some other treat.

Not encouraging to feed two resource guarders together. But as one is a puppy, the puppy also needs to learn manners. Like the older dog needs to learn not to resource guard. It is not just an immediate problem. If either of the dogs need to be kennelled, either together or separately, or one is down the vet, there will be a dog either with it, or very close to it. So a long term solution needs to be addressed. The problem with a forum, is we can only advise on what is written by the poster, if the poster is posting on behalf of another, the information can not include all the necessary information. We also cannot see the actual interaction between the two dogs in question. If the poster is really concerned an out the issue,they really need to get a behaviouralist to come out and watch the interaction and advise a suitable course of action.

It depends really on how the dog was raised and whether the cat was raised with dogs. Regardless if the dog was raised with cats, each animal has to get used to the other in the new setting. I had one border collie I taught to chase (the neighbours) cat. Damn thing was a nuisance and used to fight under our bedroom window at night. So I taught my dogs to put the cat out. They just used to chase it. If they ver caught the cat, I would say they possibly would end up second best, unless they score a lucky hit. The same dog has killed a bandicoot and a hare that has gotten stuck in the dog yard. However the same dog went to live with a friend who had cats. They knew what she was like with cats and kept an eye on her while there. She went to chase the cat a few times, but she could also be easily called back. After about a week, they were all fine.

I got mine from ebay. About $50 Japanese steel ones. Single side thinning. Cannot complain about them. Shear magic are ok for their price.

I am in high risk area. I have given heartworm during pregnancy. I never use the injection as this has caused death in some collies. I use interceptor for my worms. The flea component in sentinel I have found useless in my area. I have also used pro heart monthy tablets. I cannot use heart guard having collie breeds. Best advice, read the product leaflet and search the MSDS for the product. This will list whether is is safe to use in pregnant and lactating bitches and also any side effects that are expected using the product.

I have always separated my four. I don't necessarily do out of sight. I have also had some dogs talk (growl) while they eat. Depending on the growl and the severity of it, try to also not make a big deal of it in the way of fussing while they are doing it. The more fuss, the more the big deal to the dogs. You also want at some point to be able to feed both dogs in the same area without having to drastically separate them. If they ever have to go to a kennel or if you are out/travelling, you may not always be able to separate them as you can at home. So they both have to get used to it. It is also good for the pup to learn manners from your older bitch. Depending on your your dogs, you can also often find if the pup does come near the older ones bowl, the older dog will give up the bowl. I have had that many a time with my older dogs when I have had litters of pups, there could be a whole string of sware words said by the older dog, but when push came to shove, the bowl was given up. You can also try flood feeding them, this can be done in two ways. Many bowls with food spread between them, or spread the whole dinner over the floor. Many bowls are harder to resource guard than one. Use one of those slower bowls as linked to slow them down. The other thing you can do it wet the dry kibble before feeding, so it is going in heavier and softer and will not bloat so much in the stomach.

Funny though. When I was in suburbia, we had housing commission on two sides with their typical 3 foot chain wire fence. On our rear fence, there was the biggest ugliest and meanest entire amstaff. I kept a number of large long bars around the back yard as this dog would be down the fence trying to eat you as soon as you walked into the back yard. The owners barely did a thing for the dogs. They would jump the fence and terrorise the kids at the school on the opposite side. However, despite having bitches on season, one thing he didn't do was jump the 3 foot fence into my yard to get to my bitches (to my surprise). An easy feat for that dog.

My bitches boxes are essentially 6 foot (1.8m high) temporary fence type gates at the ends of about 1.5m wide. Mine have personnel gates at one end for my access. The side panels are 3m long. The whole thing is clamped together using pipe Downey fittings. The beauty is, it is all relocatable and transportable. The roof on mine is shade cloth. One is set on pavers bought from bunnings, the other on concrete to stop digging under. I can take a photo of mine when I get home if needed. The pavers I laid myself. Just flattened out an area and put them down and brushed dirt back over to fill the gaps between the pavers. One is made from chain wire and the other arc-mesh. Of course material will depend on what kind of dog you have. The ends of one are from a building recycle place. Best similar example can be found here: http://www.factoryfast.com.au/p/2-3-x-2-3m-pet-enclosure-dog-kennel-run-animal-fencing-fence/?utm_campaign=home-lifestyle Mine is home made. I don't have jumpers, so suits my situation. My original one had a iron roof that bolted on top. I have a wooden kennel in each for shade and weather. Even when I lived in suburbia, I was not too concerned about separate toilet areas between my dog and bitch I seasons. He can smell it anyway, so really no real extra benefit separating toilet areas. A new young dog may be whingey and whiney all the way through. An experienced stud dog may only be a pain during ovulation. My boy used to whinge from about a week before she started right till the end. Now, after a few studs, he only is whingey during those 2-3 days. Each dog is different. I lock my bitch up for 28 days, I had an accidental mating years ago on day 21 that took. Maiden dog and bitch on her first season and he was not showing interest, and I let my guard down. Learnt from that mistake. Lucky I caught them in the act and waited 30 days, checked her and aborted the pregnancy. The bitches boxes haved proved useful for small kennel type runs when they have needed to be locked up for other reasons such as injury, or other health reasons where I have had to keep them quiet. The run gives them a bit more freedom if movement that a crate just simply doesn't allow for. It was not a hugely expensive exercise and they are certainly useful. Their transportability makes them good if you're renting. If she is a coated breed, they start to drop coat about 4-6 weeks before coming into season and dogs start to show an increased interest in their behinds. Gives you warning to expect her soon to come Into season and to start checking her. There is no need to lock her up for several weeks. Bitch pants are great to stop the red dots in the house. That is their only good use. That is also providing she keeps them on.

Christina Cccq seem to think that everyone selling on MR will increase numbers in the show ring. This is not necessarily going to happen. Those who breed bad dogs now and have bad practices now are not automatically going to improve their habits if the number of eligible MR dogs start to come into the market. The choice to breed responsibility is a conscious choice by the individual. Not just the quality of the dogs being used. Those who take shortcuts to make money will not necessarily change their attitude. Every breed have their great breeders and bad apples. Those who do great work I am sure will continue to do so

Here here!!! I used to show. I walked away 18 months ago. Too many who thinks a judge is an idiot just because they did not put up their dog - even if their dog did not perform on the day. It's a hobby and supposed to be fun. It's turned into a dog eat dog world where some go to all lengths to just get that win. Then a dog is no good unless it has a CH infront of its name. Yet if you are prepared to travel you can get that important CH for showing up with the only dog there by collecting 6 point show up money. (Rare breed excluded but for popular breeds, yes). Then even for a rare breed, you can still get a 6 point CH on an inferior dog, just because it is the only one there, not because it is necessarily a rare breed. The attitude for breeding has changed. Too many now just want to make a quick buck. Local councils are toughening up their rules, looking at people breeding who are not CCC members. Once upon a time CCC breeders used to have a decent name for breeding quality dogs. Even despite some recent shows painting a different picture. With the spotlight on BYB and puppy farmers, I think the some BYB's now are turning to CCC membership to get "respectable" even though some actions are far from respectable. Their traits have not changed, they are now just "registered" breeders on paper.

Not having a go at your post just addressing some points raised, earlier to quote on an iPad. My personal opinion, it is up to the person to decide whether they wish to keep their dog entire or not. If they wish to pay the extra dog registration for an entire dog, then that is their choice. Just because someone owns an entire animal, does not automatically make them irresponsible or the do automatically 100% guaranteed to have health or behavioural issues. I have seen and boarded more dirty early (6 month) male dogs that had no toilet manners and pee on everything. I have seen older and mature entire male dogs who still squat or have perfect toilet manners. You just have to see people walking their dogs down the street - allowing them to pee (marking) on every tree, shrub or vertical feature on their walk. The dog does not need to pee that much. It does it because it can and has not been taught any manners. This is the owners fault - not the dog. Any behavioural problem that has become an ingrained habit is going to be hard to retrain than a dog who was taught correct habits from a pup. Being entire is not necessarily going to make that better or worse, My entire male stud dog has better toilet manners than the majority of early sexed pet dogs. Why? Because I put the effort in training him from 4 weeks of age (I am the breeder) A bitch who has been relentlessly bred is naturally going to be in the higher risk category of having issues relating to reproduction. If improper care was given to the bitch, this increases the risk. Again this is not the bitch's fault, but again the owner. I have had one bitch on her first litter at 2 years old, have complete uterin inertia and requiring c sect. She was desexed as if bred again, there was nearly 100% chance it would happen again. Also she cycled every 4 months. She also got moody and cranky while in season, so it was an all round decision to desex. She still gets moody and cranky when one of my other bitches are in season, so a close eye needs to be kept on her and she needs to be kept away from them. Ovaries and uterus are gone, so it's not that causing her cantankerous attitude. Some bitches and lines are more susceptible to issues. I know of a particular line who have had whelping/breeding issues. Like people, such things are also seen in family groups. Others are just bad luck. Irresponsible owners are always going to be there. Desexing is only hopefully going to stop those idiots from breeding their dogs. I know someone who have just bred their Maltese cross to some other Maltese cross. Bitch has crap temperament, bitey noisy little shit of a dog with no manners. The husband said that if the dog would cost them more than $300 they will let it die. Let's hope it does not need a c sect or any other care . Pups will probably not be regularly wormed, maybe only vaccinated and certainly not microchipped (req. by legislation). I know I will be called as soon as there is an issue and will be expected to lend a hand. They are breeding only to get some money. They had a pedigree boxer who had issues ( poorly bred pet really) would not get pregnant, so based on this one experience, they think mongrels are better than pedigree. Yet they have a cross breed with skin and eye problems bred to gawd knows what.....

Keep a close eye on them. If there is any sign of a possible infection, get them to vet ASAP, I have had pups go down and die within 6 hours with infection, and it spreads quickly from one pup to the next. Next thing you know, you have half the litter dead with septicaemia. The extremities will start to turn blue and they will be quite cool if not cold to the touch. Get some liquid glucose on your finger and put that in their mouth to get sugars up. Second wombaroo feeding. It is much fattier than divetalec and when you mix it you will see fat floating once it cools. I have found a baby bottle with a slow teat works better than pet ones. I have borders. My last three litters from different two bitches have all been c-sect. Fortunately I did not have a bitch refuse the pups. It can be common for mixture to give the pups the runs, so keep an eye on it. You may want to make it less rich and fiddle the ratio slightly to something that works. Uht goats milk is also pretty good and can be bought at the supermarket and is (until opened) sterilised. You can also buy colostrum in a powder and protexin powder to mix into the formula. Keep trying to put one or two pups at a time onto the bitch at a time and keep a close eye on them. It is common for new mums after a c-sect to reject the pups, but as Jed has suggested, you can bring some around slowly. Hope all goes well for your friend. She will probably need a hand in a few days. At least so she can have a few hours sleep.

Hi mixeduppup, I only mentioned the adequate fencing more for any others who may be reading this post and in response to Rozzie's post regarding the NSW state legislation. While most state laws are similar, there are some significant differences in keeping animals, and council by laws can add extra measures over and above the state requirement (such as permits). Myself and a few other breeder friends have all recently had pup enquiries by people who only had or would install an invisible fence. That is quite concerning really. I would never recommends these things as a primary form of containment, and some councils do not consider them "adequate fencing". :D

Some Councils will not also accept them as a primary containment system. Don't forget to look also at the local laws as they may give further direction about the use of any of these products (including electric fencing). Some councils still require adequate fencing as part of their Bi-laws. Most councils, have a look at their bilaws page - most have it on their website pertaining to containment of animals. They will have the relevant state legislation,plus their own additional local laws. You don't want to be going against that as that is where they will fine you. Where I am, electric fencing is allowed, however for the containment - I am required to have a proper fence as a primary containment. I am on property and have the usual stock fencing for the bulk of the property. I do have a fully fenced dog area and I used the Innotec system as a secondary containment as I had one dog who loved to dig under the fence.