Mystiqview

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I now look after fleet vehicles. The Hyundai Getz is still basic entry model and we have issues of replacing engine mounts in them. The i20/i30 we don't have too much issue with for problems compared to some other makes/utes. We are finding generally speaking, if you buy a new turbo diesel and do a lot of town stopping and starting they are carboning up. EGR issues can be expensive to fix. Make sure you also improve the factory fuel filters to include good water separators. I had a friend with an older Subaru forrester. They fitted two dog crates/show trollies and 3 border collies. Also look at repair costs.... Some vehicles cost much more to repair if something goes wrong. We had a Holden volt here in the workshop for smash repair.. It took nearly 6 months to get parts from USA.. You would think Holden good on parts availability... Not always so.

If I was sent an email containing the above, I would be happy to contact and talk a possible pup. Your situation is pretty much fairly standard with most of my puppy enquiries. The important part is picking the right breeder and the right animal to suit your preferences. Generally speaking, show bred dogs can be calmer than farm bred working dogs. In saying this, there are always exceptions and some "show" based lines and breeders concentrate on breeding performance dogs. Even then, not every pup in the litter is going to go out there and be the next top winner. Find a breeder who really knows temperament, training and their lines. Also make sure they do all the recommended health testing for a border collie. None of the tests available are mandatory, and some breeders don't test for everything there is available to be tested. Any dog can be good or bad with children. Some individual animals of any breed may not be suited to a family containing young children. Boys tend to be more affectionate. Teach them from 8 weeks correct toilet behaviour (ie not to pee on every vertical surface on a walk etc) and they can be just as clean as any girl. The best advice is to keep your options open and choose the best animal at the time rather than just go for a girl or boy. Border collies like all dogs do not do well just left in the back yard. They need to be part of the family. Basic obedience and manners training is essential for any dog, it makes them so much easier to live with. Some need to have a job. Some are quite fine to just be a companion. I have had both and certainly have bred both. You don't so much need to take them for marathon walks, just do something with the brain. This can be trick training. All dogs need some exercise, but many think border collies need to have this marathon run twice a day or be working all day. Find a dog with the right temperament and drive to suit your needs. I have had lounge lizards whose major activity was looking for a comfy spot on the couch to ones who just love to run all day. Have a look ok DOL puppy pages.. Just best in mind though that to advertise on there, a breeder just has to be registered with their state controlling body. Care still needs to be taken on choosing a good ethical breeder. You should not pay more for colour or sex. It costs the same to raise a merle pup or a black and white pup. No colour is rare so be careful of any who claim a certain colour is rare. I would also be careful about any who want a deposit on a litter before it is even conceived /born yet.

Accidents happen even to the best breeders. The situation is not ideal, but they now have to deal with it. No use jumping down the OP throat. The pups are a week off being born. I would not risk desexing at this late stage. Read up all you can, see the litter through and then find the best homes you can for the pups. Desex the bitch later. (Either during a sect if needed or about 16-20 weeks after pups are born, this allows the uterus and blood vessels to shrink back to normal) Christina has given some good advice about what to expect. Not totally reliable, but take her temperature from now until she is due. Start off with twice a day around the same time each day. From about 58 days, if you can, take it 4-5 times throughout the day. Average temp should be 37.4 ish. First stage of labour will begin with a temp drip to 36. If you miss it, don't worry. If you do get the temp drop, this is good as whelping will occur between 12-72 hours later. My maidens generally whelped about 59 days. Get her use to sleeping in her "whelping box/area" now. Cheapest option is those plastic kiddy pool clams. Line it with paper for her to dig up. Even if necessary make a Tent over the whelping box using chairs and a sheet to create a den. She may want to whelp in your wardrobe. You will need some stainless steel scizzors that you sterilise to cut the cords. I just boil mine for 10 minutes when she goes into first stages. You can pinch the umbilical cord about an inch from the belly and cut. Don't pull on it or allow the bitch to be rough or pull on it as this can also cause umbilical hernias. Let her chew the cord and clean them, just watch they are not too rough which maidens can be. Grab some carnation milk and you can give this to your bitch while whelping. Goats milk is also good. Get in touch with your breeder. They should be able to help. Best of luck

Alizin can be given up to 45 days in whelp. It is two injections 24 hours apart. Like any meds, there are potential side effects. Two common ones is the bitch comes straight back into season, or comes in early. If you are a breeder she may not fall pregnant on her next season. I have used Allizin without issue before. Generally you cannot tell a bitch is pregnant until about at least 28 days. Most vets will do an ultrasound around 31-35 days. Still plenty of time to give Allizin at that point. I would not be waiting until the 45th day to do it - as bigger the pups get, the greater the risks to the bitch. Speying while pregnant/in season is much greater risk surgery than a bitch who is not either. The blood vessels are more dilate and there is a greater risk of bleeding. I know some vets who also will not spey on a C-sect because of the same risk and also because the bitch has been under GA for a time (depending on complications) already and they want to get her awake as soon as possible. If it is an easy C-section - some vets are happy to perform a spey while the bitch is under. I had that done to one of my breeding bitches and all ok. Staffords can be prone to C-sections if you listen to some experienced in that breed. So budget on anything from $1000 - $2000 depending on complications/vet/time of day or night (although when I have had C-sects done it has been around the $1200 mark). I would have some one experienced on hand once she has the temp drop to call on as if you leave it too long you risk the life of the bitch and the pups. In saying this - she can whelp with no problems at all. Personally - I would have desexed the bitch at 6 months. The first season thing is a personal preference and some think it an old wives tail that a bitch needs to have a litter first "to settle down". Having owned early desexed and mature breeding bitches, I have found the whole let her have a season/litter a bit of a fallacy and think it an old wives tail. As for becoming registered for this litter - you have to be a registered breeder at the time of the mating - not when the pups were born. So you cannot backdate the litter unless you lie about when the litter was born. The best you could do is transfer her (and possibly your boy too) into a breeder's name/prefix and try to backdate the paperwork to before the mating. If you are a CCC member, you will not need to transfer the boy - only the girl. So maybe her breeder will help here. The bitch owner/breeder needs to have a prefix - not the dog owner (only needs to be a member of a canine body). ETA: I missed the first bit about her being due next week. AWL at Ipswich does early desexing

white ring at the base of the nipple - for hairy dogs - lose hair around base of nipple vulva still slightly enlarged after season Going out of season - stops standing very shortly after mating where maybe she would tart longer if not mated. Very sooky and clingy

There are good breeders and bad breeders. Some know a bit more, and some know a bit less. Some are really good at picking temperaments and I know some breeders who do all the right things, but are also not good at picking traits. But hey, if people want to 100% blindly trust their breeder without doing any research before, then good luck to them.

For those who say "let the breeder choose" - Just to throw it out there and for a minute think outside of the box Would you say the same for a new breeder on their first or even second litter with an introductory insight to the breed and/or behavioural training/experience to be able to accurately choose the right pup for you? Would you let a breeder who may have a bit of experience in the breeding (and raring pups) but not a lot of experience in behaviour/training and/or complete breed traits. Eg: pups are rared by mum with limited socialisation and stimuli to various experiences to be able to confidently choose a suitable pup for a new puppy buyer? Would you be confident in allowing an experienced pet based breeder who does not fully interact or know much about training or behavioural issues choosing a suitable pup? They breed because they love puppies and breeding? Not every new puppy buyer is lucky or goes to the best or experienced breeder for their pup who knows about temperament, socialisation, and can identify behaviours in animals. I have seen some puppy buyers choose their puppy based on a photo on a breeder website and due to distance not be able to see the pup and interaction to the litter mates etc. Only to find when the pup comes home, it is not suitable temperament to their lifestyle. I have seen and spoken to other new puppy owners who were allowed to choose their puppy from a whole litter where the breeder (both pedigree and BYB) have not been able to or willing to assist to choose which puppy would best suit. Anyone looking to add a new pet to their home, needs to research basic behaviours, traits to know at least a basic understanding of what to look for. If you know of nothing, how to you know the breeder is really knowledgable and not telling you what they think they want you to hear? At worst, take a friend if you are looking at a litter who either knows the breed or something about behaviours. At least to possibly stop you from buying on impulse. One reason why I always recommend puppy buyers to not put a deposit down on the spot and walk away for five, think with the brain not the heart as the saying goes. There are some great breeders out there who I would trust 110% to make the decision for me and have done this for me. Unfortunately there are some out there who are only interested in making a sale

Firstly, as a breeder, if I identified such a temperament when they first start to show generally around 2-4 weeks or even later, I would be spending much more time with that pup making sure it is socialised and build up its confidence. My pups are generaly well socialised from birth with family and close friends whom I trust. Once their eyes/ears open, they are further socialised with friends, carefully supervised puppy buyers. At 6 weeks, they start to go for short drives and also carefully supervised outings to the local shopping village where they stay in the car with mum while I sit on the tailgate sipping coffee. Here they learn about loud noises, shopping trolleys and other stimilii that you just cannot replicate at home. Just before they go at 8 weeks they are taken down to a local puppy class held at the vets where they are again carefully supervised. Secondly, I would wait for the right buyer. No use selling a puppy to the first person who comes along who falls in love with it if the puppy is not suitable for their lifestyle. Three things will happen; it will be returned to you soon after (if you are lucky - as many will not want to admit defeat to the breeder), it will be onsold to an unsuspecting buyer (often unbeknown to the breeder) or be taken to the pound where in good likihood it will be put down. When a new home is found for the pup - I fully disclose their temperament and things they should and not do and suggestions on how to socialise the puppy - especially during the fear periods.

I have fed smaller sized whole chicken carcuses to 12 week bc pup/s before going to work - they make great all day suckers for them. A pup will eat what it can eat.. You have to keep an eye on the quantity anyway - it needs to be increased and decreased slightly as they are growing to keep an even weight gain on them as they go through their growing phases. Their weight gain or loss will soon tell you whether you are feeding too much or less. One or two chicken necks or wing are only really only treat toppers when added to the top of their meal.

Despite what the breeder chooses to breed for - show, performance or pets. Temperament, health (both physically and genetically) and structure/conformation needs to be there and included into the breeding program It is my belief that those who breed for performance have to also be extra vigilant on structure or conformation. A dog with plenty of drive is not going to get very far if it's structure is wrong and breaks down to injury in a short term or repeatedly. While some breed faults in some breeds ( such as pricked ears, blue eyes, colour etc) are not as critical in the overall scheme as compared to the correct structure of the animal. And while some breeders may say "I am not breeding show dogs, they need to still breed to the standard with respect to conformation as a top priority and not sacrifice this. Some do not and look possibly at the breed standard as for show dog people who want pretty dogs. The nature of agility or jumping and intense sports put way more stresses on the joints that calmly gaining around a show ring. To breed, the dog still needs to be on the main register and should meet the standard. In reality with all breeders, many if not most of the pups end up as family pets first and sporting second. So temperament is important in both cases. Within litters there will be those pups based on temperament who would lend better to this activity or that. Pups from show lines can be very good sporting dogs. The biggest thing with any litter and pup is the physical exercise of getting someone to want to take a pup into a sporting arena and not just enjoy a family pet. Some sports are very competitive and some breeds equally competitive to get dogs out there in a sporting or showing home. Titles front and rear of a name simply means in essence, someone has put in the effort to compete with the dog. There are equally good dogs sitting around in pet homes, because the buyer just wanted a family pet and the breeder was not able to place that pup in a competitive home at the time. Advice I give to puppy buyers, if you want a show dog, talk to people who breed and show their dogs. If you want a sporting or working dog, talk to those breeders who are in that field. Both sides offer great wisdom and insight into their chosen field.

You can also give soft bones like lamp flaps as they eat the whole meat and bones. The bones are nice and soft. Even half a chicken carcus at 12 weeks a day or two is fine

Steph M: Big difference in looking at a litter personally than buying a pup only based on what the breeder tells you. If you have the chance to look at the litter - it is good to see the whole interaction. If buying sight unseen, then definitely you need to be able to trust your breeder's judgement and have confidence in them. I have bought dogs sight unseen and in my case have know the breeders. As a breeder - I have been contacted by interstate people looking for a pup based on a photo. I have not had a long time to get to know them nor them me to discuss which pup would be suitable. They have a big step in trusting my judgement and advice and also that I am who I am and will actually send them a pup (based on increasing dog scams around). Old wives tail: "pick the first dog that comes to you - it chose you". I still here this said around many a pet person when they are looking at litters - both pedigree and unpedigree. Espeically when they are going to look at entire litters. How many times do you still hear this said without thought to what they are actually saying. It is true a breeder will know the outgoing pups from the introverted - however what harm is there to put this information out there??? If anything to dispel the myth "pick the first one that comes to you" There are many first time dog people reading these threads who don't post who would think to just go out there and pick the first pup that came to them without thinking about what they are potentially getting and who may not have a good breeder behind them. It is just as important they know the basics for the information toolbox.

It's a two way street - information needs to be shared. Both the puppy buyer and the breeder need to talk and decide whether the pup offered is really suitable. As a breeder I am observing the pups all the time. I keep note on their temperaments, attributes and how they interact with everyone and thing. I get as much information as I can from puppy buyers as to what they are looking for. In my breed: border collies are subject to quite a difference in markings and colour, I have had puppy buyers say they like this or that puppy. When I am first contacted on a puppy, they will often say they like puppy #4 based on markings or appearance from a photo. This may not be a good choice - however at this stage if they are only looking at photos it is all they can really go upon. I will eventually match the temperament of the puppy to the family. I would never dream of saying this is your puppy - like it or lump it type of thing. I advise which ones I think are best suited based on temperament etc - however the decision is really up to the puppy buyer and I have found through experience they need to feel as though they have made the decision to take that pup (even though I as the breeder may have done it). I have never had problems selling puppies and if the puppy buyer goes away knowing my litter is not suited to them, then I am happy. I would sooner hold onto a pup than sell one to the first person who offered me money. I also invite and encourage local puppy buyers to come and visit the litter from after they are two weeks of age. Firstly for socialization of the whole litter to other people outside my family and secondly so they can see the development of their puppy. Some will not agree with this principle based on increased puppy thefts and possible kennel cough, flue etc. Infection is easily enough scooted around if precautions are taken. (I have worked in pounds when there has been an outbreak of canine flu or kennel cough and also the complete quarantine and scrub down procedures for Equine Flu). I have had pups picked for me by breeders I know and trust - I have given them the traits I prefer and like and have been offered a choice of pups. Although I do have more experience in choosing temperament and also conformation as I am picking a dog for a different criteria than an average pet person. Some have had great conformation, but crappy temperaments. Others good temperaments but not as good conformation. (I am picking for show and breeding animals). A breeder can make suggestions as to which puppy within a litter is best suited to them - they should also be able to back it up with the reasons why. However I don't believe it is right or fair for a breeder to bring out a puppy and say "this is your puppy" without discussing or informing the puppy buyer why they think this. The puppy buyer should also have sat down (and maybe with their family) and thought about what they actually want and are looking for in a dog, what traits are important to them, what they are wanting to do with the dog (eg sport etc) before looking at pups. It is too easy to be tempted by the cute ball of fluff sitting on your lap into choosing something on impulse.

Betadine is only diluted iodine (either in a liquid or cream) which is an antiseptic solution. Antiseptic Liquid rapidly kills all bacteria and fungi commonly responsible for wound and skin infections. At worst - it will have no effect at all. It would possibly only kill surface bacteria/fungus and may not get deep enough to treat the deeper infection. It sounds by the information given the second vet prescribed a secondary dose of internal antibiotics to fight the infection.

If a dog is on a balanced diet it should not need extra calcium. most commercial grade foods have calcium in them now. If you feed bones - they will get calcium from those. Feeding supplimented calcium shuts/slows the glad down as it does not have to work any more to get it from the food. If the dog is then requiring calcium the gland is not operating fully to be able get the calcium it needs. Calcium additives should only be directed by your vet.

If you have not done so already - find out the good the bad and the damn ugly traits of your chosen breed. This will give you insight in what to possibly expect as a general breed trait. Not all individuals will display all the "typical" breed traits often associated with them - but it is useful to know them just the same, so you can identify the trait if it DOES appear. If your breeder is knowledgeable and knows their lines and the breed, they should be able to give you this information and explain the temperament traits of each puppy you are looking at. Make sure you tell the breeder what your home situation is like - you don't need to give a complete history, but things like, how old the kids are and their experience towards dogs (are they generally afraid of dogs, are they themselves boisterous or quite children. Has the cat lived with a dog before?, will the dog be outside/inside or both, is anyone home during the day, what you want to do with the dog - just a family pet or you are considering a sporting activity such as obedience, dancing with dogs, agility etc. All these things will help the breeder point you towards a dog whose temperament will suit your lifestyle. If they do not have anything in their current litter available, do they know of another good breeder who might or when is their next litter? As for male vs female - with correct toilet training, male dogs (even entire) can be quite clean and not pee on everything. I have a stud dog here who has good toilet manners. When he is walked he knows he is not to pee on every post and tree we walk past. He does not mark every bush/vertical surface at home - even when I have girls in season. In some breeds - males can be better family pets than females. Many people think males are dirty because they pee on everything - that is because they have not been taught any better. I would be wary of any breeder who just picks out a pup and says "this is your pup" without offering you the opportunity to look at the litter in the entirety. The other pups may already be sold which you may not be able to do anything about, however it is vital you observe how each pup interacts with each other, other dogs/animals and humans. I have heard of breeders who will only show the available puppy/puppies individually. If you have not already paid a deposit, I would hold off paying a deposit while you are at the breeder's place. Leave your wallet and money at home. Look at the litter objectively. Go away for a few hours and think about it. You can always do a direct deposit into their bank account when you get home. I say this to remove any temptation to go "Yes I will have this one" when that pup may not be best suited to your household. A good breeder will understand this - while they want to find homes for the pups, they also want to make sure the people are providing the best home for the pup and it would fully suit their circumstances. Way too many people buy on impulse and regret the decision later. Temperament is paramount. I personally will not take a deposit when puppy buyers are looking at pups. I want them to go home and think about it before making the decision - after all it is a 15 year decision and commitment they are making and you want it to be a good fit. Typically and generally speaking, within each litter there will always be the extravert and introvert puppies. Those that come bounding up to you first can be the social butterfiles and while not always dominant (that is such a misused and misunderstood term) - they can always be looking for their next adventure. They can be into everything and can be hard to train as their attention is always moving to the next "shiny thing". The mid ranking puppies, those that hang back that just a fraction before coming up, have looked at the situation, sussed you out and then decided you are good to go an investigate. These are best puppies for most families. They have that stop and think rather than diving into everything. They are good all-rounders. The last are the introverts - the ones that may appear timid or shy or are just quiet. I would normally reserve these for more experienced handlers like the extraverts as if they are socialised wrong or experience a bad experience the wrong way, it can leave a lasting and sometimes negative impression. However they can also be excellent family pets (again this can depend on breed traits). I used to have a husky in this group years ago. Huskies by general nature are aloof, independent and can be quite strong willed, so an introvert pup is not necessarily one that is very timid and rolls over and pees itself as soon as a person comes up. I socialised that dog carefully, made sure she was introduced to stimilli both good and bad carefully and she proved a good (back then) obedience dog and we used to be part of obedience demos at the Ekka and other large groups. Sadly she died at 4 years from a rare auto immune disorder. Border collies which I have now are typically a much softer breed in temperament - so more care I believe is needed when choosing an introverted soft nature dog/breed.

From memory, Vets do not HAVE a legislative obligation to keep them. I know some vets who will take an animals and ring the pound directly in Brisbane. It is up to the owner to keep their animal contained within their property. I have scanned animals who have never had their microchips registered by the implanting surgery. (quite a few AWL ones from their microchip days). Pretty damn hard to track owners then. As to whose responsibility it is to transfer the details - depends on who the microchip was registered with: Mostly it rests upon the onus of the new owner and also to ensure they have had the old owner sign the transfer form. The old owner must microchip the animals prior to sale - they should sign a transfer form at the time of sale, but they do not have to lodge it on behalf of the new owner.

Have a talk to some JRT breeders and get to know them. Do you want smooth or wire hair, male or female? Really study your breed standard and know the correct movement required of the breed. (there are also some good books and webpages on movements of certain breeds). Much of this will also be learnt over time, however you need to know the basics upfront if you are serious about wanting to show, even if it is only to dabble. You also need to be critical and really get to know your animals strengths and weaknesses. Every animal has them. Even the top winning show dogs will have their own strengths and weaknesses. You will not be given a top winning show dog for your first animal, so you will need to learn how to best campaign him/her to lessen the highlight on the bad points and really show off the good points. This is mainly to do with stacking the dog -Eg: If the dog is straighter in stifle, don't stretch the back legs out too far to make it look straighter than what it actually is. IT needs to be on the Main Registration. I would look at possibly a male pup to start off with. You don't have seasons to worry about and a breeder may be more willing to part with a male pup than a female to an unknown quantity. With the correct training, your male pup can be a valued member of the house and not pee and poop on every bush and pot-plant there is. (most common reason I get asked for females is the belief that males are dirty). An average or low quality specimen can look a million dollars with the correct handler just like a million dollar puppy can look like crap with an inexperienced or bad handler. Depending on the breeder - you may be asked to go into a partnership or co-own arrangement. This means the breeder still has right of input into what happens with the dog - this will mainly be around breeding rights. So if you are asked for this, make sure you are 100% comfortable with the conditions set by the breeder. If there is doubt or concern, talk to the breeder and if there is still valid doubts/concerns, I would probably look elsewhere. At the end of the day, you both have to trust one another and possibly work together. I have seen some contracts very one sided and in reality the puppy buyer is being ripped off. I have also seen puppy buyers rip off the generosity of the breeder. A contract that has gone sour is not pleasant at all and we often see on DOL those who have been part of a bad contract. Within every breed, there are styles or types. Choose a type that you really like. I would probably also maybe start out with a style or type that is currently in the show ring. This can be a double edged sword. Fads come and go. What is currently winning in the show ring may not be strictly correct and is part of a current fad. However if you go in with something that is strictly correct and vastly different, you may get looked over because of the difference if this makes sense.

How much dust was in the trailer when you got to your destination? In all honesty - how much dirt road driving will you be doing each month etc? If it is only minor - it may not be worth worrying about. You will have air pockets at the rear of your vehicle and at the back of the trailer (depending also on vehicle type and size). Some vehicles (like 4wd) create more of a dust swirling convection scenario than others. YOu could close the front vents and leave open any rear vents, however the side vents on the trailer can also suck in dirt. Generally on really dusty roads, keep your speed down.

Sometimes there is not a lot of difference at all. Sometimes it comes down to personality. A really outgoing puppy who screams "look at me" could all that is the difference to a litter mate who is more quiet and not outgoing. In the show ring, you want to be noticed. Aside from serious faults within breeds such as bad mouths (wry, over bite, under bite etc), colours, markings and size. A show quality and pet quality is the breeder being really nit picky in what they are looking for in the animal. As a breeder, you have to be very nit picky at times as you need to keep the best for breeding. Otherwise the difference can be small and the average pet person may not even tell the differences. An average pet person will not necessarily know the correct head shape, lay of shoulder, correct spring of rib and loin or even the correct angles and the correct amount of turn of stifle or the length of hock. Some lines may have particular family features eg, longer body or broader skull. Both can be acceptable towards the breed standard. It comes down then to what particular style the breeder is breeding for and their particular lines. Some breeds advertise most of their puppies on the "limited register" (not for breeding and showing). Although if you are really interested in showing, maybe talk to the breeders of the dogs you like about possibly entering into the show world. Some state Canine bodies charge a little more for Main Register than Limit Register. In Qld, it is the same price for both Main and Limited (about $40/pup) and breeders limit register their pups to stop kennels from getting hold of their lines (especially any rogue breeders within a particular breed who want top quality kennel prefixes or lines to advertise off). The best advice I can give you is talk to the breeders of the dogs who you particularly like. If possible meet them at a nearby show or see if they have sold any pups near to you if you are looking interstate and ask to get into contact with them. Ask them what they consider the differences between show and pet animals and ask them why they thought this animal was pet over a litter mate. (obviously be careful how you ask that question - best done in person when looking at the dogs). I would suggest you doing some research before on the breed standard and what is expected of the animals so you have a general idea first. Most important - JRT are terriers. Terrier by name and can be terrier by nature. Temperament is very important when looking at terrier breeds - (like all breeds really). You need to know if you have not had JRTs before what you are getting yourself in for. You need to know the good, the bad and the ugly when you are looking at your next dog if it is a breed that is new to you.

Any tick collar used in a multi dog household needs to be watched for dogs chewing each other's collars and ingestion.

Really? Wonder what the use of it is then .... save for revenue. When I microchip my puppies, they have to go into my name. I sign and complete the transfer form and all the new owner has to do is sign it, add their contact details and send it off and the owner details are changed. Simple right?? Must be too hard. I sold a pup 18 months ago. I got a letter from the microchip company the other day, saying the pups microchip registration is up for renewal? WTF? Firstly when the dog was sold interstate with this document, the new owners did not complete the transfer. Secondly, microchip registration renewal fees? When I was at the pound, you would get a dog, scan for the chip and log in and search the registries. If it was the companion animal registry, they would take your details, contact the owner and request the owner to contact you at the pound. Any other registry, they would give you the name and contact number for the chip. I could not be joe smith of the street ringing in and asking for details. We had our authorisation ID and password. There are many NSW dogs sold interstate. The companion animal registry there has to be the most un user friendly and had the worst customer service if you don't live in nsw.

In this scenario- too many ifs buts and maybes. Presuming the pup left the breeder at 8-9 weeks. The certification at 8 weeks for travel, is basically, the dog is in good physical condition not suffering from an infection, dehydration, has good weight or any other similar ailments. Not much more you can really certify at that age, unless something is obvious. I would suspect any trauma caused by the travel would be evident upon arrival at the new home of within the coming days/week upon arrival. There are at least one if not two more vet visits for vaccinations at 12 and 16 weeks. Going on a "normal scale". Possibly another vet visit at 6 months or so for desexing. Then the 12 month vaccination. So my first question was why was it not picked up by the owner/vet during one of these visits. Depends on what the condition is too? If it is something like hip/elbow or shoulder displacia, it can be in all breeds large or small. There can be a hereditary predisposal to the condition, or it can also be caused from environmental factors such as bad diet, too much stress on joints at a young age, injury or a combination of everything. OCD of the shoulder commonly is seen around 8-9 months. Many vets also like to quickly say HD as soon as they find out the dog is pedigree. If this is the case, I would get a second opinion from a trusted vet. Sometimes I have seen OCD/ED/HD claimed too easily by some vets or so called vet specialists when it is soft tissue injury from a young dog being stupid and has just strained a muscle or tendon and not HD. ( I had OCD claimed by a so called vet specialist on a bitch I bought who had her foot caught in a fence. A second and third opinion by different specialists and some more tests showed only soft tissue damage. That bitch is now 7 years old and does not have OCD) the first vet specialist is know to love diagnosing OCD in pedigree dogs. Something that is age or maturity related, you would not know until the dog reached that point. No way you could tell in an 8-12 week old pup. Dogs with perfect hip scores can produce hip displastic pups. Dogs bred with high hips scores do run a higher risk of producing pups with high hip scores, but they can also produce offspring with low hip scores. Sporting dogs who start intensive training early can get elbow/hip displacia by being put into work too early and severely before they finish growing. Dogs who live in high rise houses and always jump the bottom steps and turn sharply are a higher risk of injury than a dog who lives in a house without steps. If it is something rare in the breed, and not commonly seen, it is just bad luck. Especially if there is no health test or preventative to attempt to breed against that trait from showing. I would not hold the breeder at fault. If it is something common in the breed and there are tests and they chose to breed without testing for it, then certainly I would hold the breeder responsible. I would also partly hold the puppy buyer responsible if they knew about the potential condition/risk and chose to go ahead with the purchase knowing the parents were tested. ( I would also expect puppy buyer to research their potential breed thorough before buying a pup, and I would also expect the breeder to inform puppy buyers the potential breed specific problems of that breed, whether found in their lines or not). Without more specifics of what the breed or condition is, how can you expect anyone to really answer your question?

Depends on the vet. Some vets cannot hold dogs for long as they don't have large facilities to do so. It is the right thing to notify council they have a dog/cat as generally that is one place the owner will ring first rather than all the vets in surrounding areas. Small town a bit different as there may only be one or two vets. Depending on council. It can still take up to 4 hours to collect the animal from the vet to take back to the pound. Even if the dog has a microchip, I can say from experience that at least half do not have the correct details of the current owners. And to get info out of the nsw registry is damn difficult at best "for privacy reasons". Even for pound officers with ID's and passwords.