Mystiqview

Such as Life, One thing to remember... Dogs lose heat via panting, their under carriage and pads.. If you wet the back. you can actually steam them... It could be a good idea to put something under her rather than over the back. There is another thread about bullies and genetic diseases. I thought I read heart attack is one of them... Has the vet given any advise on best treatment methods? It is sad indeed that a baby puppy has already suffered one. My thoughts to you

Such as Life. They are cheap as chips to make. Go to Bunnings or hardware or Hydroponics store and buy water crystals. About $5 for 200 gr jar. IF you are handy with a sewing machine, can get something to line an existing dog coat or make your own. I have made a cooling mat for my dogs here. I work on about 1 teaspoon per 10cm square. I use a reasonably thickish material. Go to Spotlight or any other cheap fabric shop... Bought some good nylon type material for about $4/meter and it was a 130 wide... Know some have used old pillow cases. The water crystals are what soak up the water and take a few days to dry out. Much cheaper way to try it....

How often have you changed the diet?? Normally also food allergies can take a month for the dog to get over. So if you change too frequently, you may not know if it was food or other.. I would stick to what you are feeding the dog now for another month or so...just to cross check whether it was the food or something that may have been growing in the garden at the time.

Flaxseed is known to cause skin problems in horses Kelp is also known to cause problems. The rice/cereals are also known allergins. However in saying that.... As a migrane sufferer. And looking at the list of food KNOWN to cause migraines.... Just about anything you can eat can cause allergies. If food allergy. It is one of the hardest to find out what causes it. Did the dog have the allergy before you switched food? If there are new grasses growing (with the recent influx of rain) such as crows foot, pasphalum (sp) to name two..these are also known allergins.

oceanaussi, If you are up in Dayboro, just dont go to the advertised obedience classes down in samford. Heard nothing good about it. Think it being held by some private person behind the farmers hall. I am down most Monday nights at Metro as well. Moved back to northside a few months ago..

You can buy various strengths of Iodine from pet stores and produce stores. I tend to buy the stronger Iodine (we also have horses) and dilute it accordingly if needed. I also have a purple spray here for stings, sores and other cuts/abrasions. Both have worked well. I cannot use Iodine as I am personally allergic to it. It is hard to buy from chemists for this reason. Betadine is a dilute form of Iodine solution. Have used Iodine well for puppy acne, cuts, welts, never had hot spots but known others to have found it useful in drying up and cleaning hot spots.

It is part of Bonnies who are primarily based at THE GAP. I have been training with them now for about 12 years. I would definately look into some private puppy school between the age of 8 weeks and 12 weeks when the cccq affilliated clubs (Pine Rivers, Metro, Caboolture etc) can then take on your training. As said previously, they do not accept puppies before 12 week vaccination as part of the CCCQ rulings. And in my personal opinion, much happens between 8-12 weeks including a fear period that I think is more risky regarding unsocialisation than compared to parvo. Sure have to be careful with parvo and Kennel Cough (common sense prevails - no off lead parks until fully vaccinated), but unsocialised or poorly socialised dogs also get killed..

Bonnies has one two of their instructors who hold puppy classes from 8 weeks at Strathpine. It is held at a private residence on Monday nights I believe from memory. They are in behind Samsonvale Road and Kremzow Road around there. I have the address at home somewhere. It is also on Bonnies website. You pay per night. It used to be around $10/class. They are really good as apart from Vetinary surgeries CCCQ affiliated clubs do not accept puppies until they are 12 weeks of age. Personally I think this too old. I understand their perspective of all three vaccinations etc. But IMHO I believe to socialise them as early as possible in controlled circumstances. Another of one of Bonnies Instructors hold obedience classes at the Pine Rivers Show grounds on a Thursday night. Des Strong is a long time obedience trialler and also trains/instructs at Caboolture Dog Club. It has been years and years since I have trained at Pine Rivers so cannot comment on what their current classes are like.

I know of dogs who started weaving too early and too concentrated to develop OCD and elbow displacia. Would not start too early and if you did start a young puppy, would take it very slow and do not continue it for long periods at any one time/day

Some vets sell peptosyl as medication only.. Gastrostop from the chemist also works well for those kinds of diahorrea... Recommended by a vet funnily enough.. For straight food type diahorrea. Was houseitting for a friend.. gave her dogs a chicken frame each.. and as she dos not feed a lot of raw.. her dogs slightly had a reaction to it... a little case of the runs.... Gastrostop ETA: Some of the online vet places also sell peptosyl.... It retails for well under $20 Have PM'd you a couple

sorry, if you are not careful, the dog will learn that when he sees you...he will learn more quickly to chew when you are not around.. One method to stop biting of the hand is to when the puppy is biting, is to for want of a better description hld the bottom jaw or move the flat of your hand right to the rear of the puppies mouth and hold it there until the puppy tries to spit your hand out. Repeat each time puppy tries to mouth your hand. As for chewing other things.. best to remove all items from puppy levels as best you can and do not let puppy full run of the whole house. Baby gates are great to restrict puppies only to certain areas of the house. Also try and work a swap arrangement for inappropriate chews... swap a sock for a toy, etc. same is cuffing a dog with a rolled up newspaper.. when dogs sees newspaper... that is the correction... It picks up on your body language FAR before you say Uh Uhm or get there to shake the can.

I train both. Stand is stand. but when I teach stand rather than an obedience any stand will do.. i teach them to more to stand as if they are on a stack then stand still as if for obedience..(no feet to move) So basically my stand is free stack. As far as sitting when the dog automatically sees food... do not reward the sit as soon as they see food (your post implies this). Do heel, sit reward... Do heel, stand reward.. The only difference is then when you come to a halt in a show ring, you will have to use the command stand.. rather than really say nothing. There are some things like fetch, articles, scent discrimination that are very easy to teach as a puppy... as everything is a game.. I focus possibly more energy on this from 8 weeks on.. Lead work.. yeah... But I teach heel generally offlead anyway with food to start with.. then attach a lead later. Gets really nice heel free.

I trialled in the middle of a thunder storm once. I would have thought that they would have suspended competition while the worst of the lighting going. It was the old Jimboomba club grounds.. The oval had a lovely layer of water over it.. And I had the judge/steward following behind me with a golf umbrella (you know the oness large metal spike at tip)... That is not to mention the steel stakes driven into the ground to mark the ring.. In saying that, with another dog, I got my CD title on 192 in the middle of a thunderstorm. This club actually suspended competition for the cell to pass. It unnerved a number of dogs.. but we did well.. Used to compete/train with the horses in the rain.. Mostly I am over it. I hate being cold and wet.. stuff the dog.. :D I am back on the northside.. Trundled down to training last night... few spots on way down, but fortunately no rain.

I would probably try ginger tablets... the ginger content in biscuits is quite small. I have ute with canopy.. recently I changed the canopy from high to standard height. One dog who is ok in the car.. but was not the best (mind you its a BC).. while i was without a canopy for a few weeks, I put him in the back chained him in the middle and drove around the block...not fast.. did wonders.. now all you can feel is bounce bounce bounce as he bounces around the back of the ute (now with a canopy)

I used to own a siberian husky from the time she was 8 weeks old to the time she had to be put to sleep at 2.5 years (with an immune disorder) had anal gland problems, so anal glands can affect a 4 month pup. If not anal glands and it is worms.. worm her with something like Drontal. Lock her up somewhere you can check the 'fresh' stools for 48 hours...rubber gloves and break apart the stools. If worms come out.. she has worms.. Messy and Icky.. but sometimes only way to check if they have a worm burden.

do you have access to another dog who LOOOOVVVVEESSS to travel in the car??? Sometimes the confidence of another dog can help as they booster their confidence off the other dog. If you know someone with a ute (with a canopy) this can be good too as plenty of air normally gets thru... And the other dog bouncing around having a good time rubs off

vitamin C

you could try a leather soccor ball. cheap one from Kmart or somewhere similar. Slightly deflate it..and see how you go. they are about $10

What ever you use for treats.. They need to be easily chewed and gone, and something preferably smelly as compared to dry kibble which has very low smell. I use cabana.. it is smelly...easy gone..dogs dont waste time chewing.. while a dog chews.. time is spent away from focussing on you.

The weekend paper's classifieds/trading post is also pretty good. Got a number of crates from there over the years. The only thing you have to watch with ebay is that postage does not kill you. yes the underlay I bought is the same as woolen underlay for a normal human bed, except it is acryllic. It is great to throw down in a crate or use as puppy bedding, but it is not dry bedding. Its soft, fluffy and quick drying when you wash it.

I am the same as Wylie. At first they are in a crate in the bedroom. With you sleeping, it helps with settling a puppy. Everyone snoring! As long as you make the crate a fun place to be.. all should be good At the moment while I am housesitting, I have one older dog in a C-crate during the day with Mia (10 week) puppy. This is mainly because they have to be locked in the garage during the day while I am at work. The pees are getting less.. Mia and rocky do not poop in the crate which is a bonus. I found some really cheap acrylic fleece underlay at Woolworths the other week. $20 for Queen size.. Throw that on the bottom of the crate. The beauty about acrylic is that it drys really quick especially in winter and it is also reasonably warm.

My puppies are crate trained. The first few weeks, they are in a crate by the bed. The crate then gets moved to the lounge room. Love crate trained. Got one dog here.. If there is a crate in a house somewhere and the door is open.. thats where you will find her by choice.. Crate training is great if you travel, helps with toilet training, if the pup has to go to the vet... Shows, trials etc. A crate gives the dog their own little portable bedroom. In saying this.. My older dogs are just as happy outside in kennels as they are inside. The older dogs have moved from crates to mats on the floor. But if I go over to a friends place, I know I can always crate my dogs somewhere if I need to.

I have used it once and it cost me about $160. Each dog is different.. but I think in most cases there is not a lot of side effects. You may find that your bitch may come into season straight away or an early next season, or may have a longer season. You may find that she may not fall pregnant on her next season.

Sticks, Do not know much about Labs. But on the scores side.. I am a little concerned of the 7:0.. only from an unevenness point of view. I would like to have seen them more even.. even if they were 5:2... I know lab scores are higher than my breed of border collies.. and given that.. and please lab breeders feel free to disagree.. i would not even mind seeing a score of 7:7 as preferable to 7:0.. I know that probably does not make a lot of sense. Personally I would like to have a difference between left and right of no more than half the highest score.. I would not hip/elbow score him before 18 months. But before he is used at stud, I would be asking myself what he would contribute to the gene pool, and whether he is a good example of his breed. Just because he is pedigree and you have him (I hope) on main register (limit register means that you agree to desex him and he cannot be conformation shown) does not automatically make him eligible to be bred from. Again on elbows. I believe labs have higher scores than borders. But I would not breed from a dog who has elbow scores of 2:2. The highest score possible on each side is 3.. so the parents of your dogs have reasonably high elbow scores. (again I do not know if this is normal for labs) International scores A-E are similar to our numbers.. A is excellent and E is poor.

Sounds Strange. If you are not happy with her.. I would suggest you seek other puppy pre schools. There are plenty around. The one I go to, they allow small, quiet dogs to play together, rough/large dogs together. They do allow some cross-over between the 'two' groups, but if one puppy is getting a little too rough with another, it is asked to go on lead as a time out kinda situation then put back in after a minute or so..