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Here are some other places to look at. They are all Brisabne based as well. These sites give a little bit more information on the products. What they cover and what they don't. You really have to read the label to see what they exactly cover and what they don't. Especially when it comes to tapeworms. Some cover some tapeworms, but not the hydatid tapeworm which is more serious. So you will need a tapewormer product as well. The Vet Shed Vet Products Direct Others have posted the links to priceless pets. Like what others have said, it all depends on what you work out works best for you. Heartworm: Proheart monthly tables Fleas/ticks: advantix All Worm: Paratak Plus or Drontal (Alternate between the two) I personally do not like top spots for worming. I prefer something you shove down the gob as you know that it is in there and has the best chance of working. I am sure the top spots work fine.. But for me.. I use something that I know is in the system. I also then lock up my dogs for 24 hours and check the poos to make sure if there are any worms coming out. This comes back from horses, where you do this to make sure you have got the worms. So it has for me followed through with the dogs. With the top spots, the error of margin is so great on these products. If you check with Bayer or any of the other companies, you can put a 40kg top spot on a 10kg dog without any ill effects.. that has to make you think about the concentration of the active ingredient(s) if you are able to do this.

Tony, Thanks for that. I have had large breeds (Dobermanns) So the excuse alone that the dog is 35+ kilos does not wash with me. When you bought said dog, you would realise I hope that it is a large breed. My last dobermann was personal protection trained, so I had to make 100% sure I knew how to handle a dog with this training. To not do this, is shouting for trouble with a capital T. Even my breed now of border collies, are known pullers. Many people who turn up to club have a problem with their BC pulling. A mature male BC can be around 25 kilos. Personally, I will allow for some ignorance and lack of experience. But if you have identified this fault within yourself, Surely you would think the person would seek proper help. Rather than create multiple excuses for why the dog does something you do not want it to do. I have been an obedience instructor with three clubs within the Brisbane limits. I know there are issues out there with instructors at clubs. Most of the people who instruct only know what they went through with their dog, and some do not look outside for other training ideas and tips. They are volunteers. If they were not shown in the first instance by their instructor how to correctly fit and work the equipment then the fault lies in the training of the instructors. Then there is the 'stupid' people within the club.. For some, you can help. They are a dream to train. The others whose only training is on club night and you tell them the same things week after week, you can do nothing with. You can lead a horse to water, but you cannot make it drink. Too many people blame the tools of training.. Not the tool on the end of the lead. If results are not instantaneous, then they are no good. Some behaviour issues will take a long time to work through. Others take no time at all.

Please I do not want to make a dig at those who have larger breeds and as the dog gets older, wants to challenge leadership etc.. But at the same time, you are also making excuses in your training. Before getting into Border Collies, I had dobermanns. My last one was personal protection trained. Caeser was about 39kgs in his prime. Even growing up, he wanted to challenge authority at times. All dogs not matter how large or small do this. Training is about perserverence. I understand where people may not be experienced enough to go through this phase. However I find may obedience clubs do not properly teach how to use the equipment they sell. Likewise for pet shops. The gear hangs up on the walls, with little or no instruction on how to correctly use it. This is where initiative comes into play.. Do some research. Internet is a good place to start to get the theory. Books are also good, And of course nothing beats been shown how to use it from a qualified trainer. People who bag chains, many times do because they do not know how to correctly use a chain. This is the same for martingales, as they are based on the principle of a chain. Head halters, sporn etc, also need to user to know the correct use. The rolling and trying to scratch it are common with many a dog. Most people do not spend the time at home letting the dog get used to the collar. The first time the dogs gets it on, is at fitting time, then again when the owner wants to take the dog for a walk. Think back to when you first got your puppy.. And its first collar.. What did you do??? Put in on for short periods at a time, and rewarded them for not wanting to get it off! We all love to take our dogs out wherever we go.. But when first training a dog to walk on any sort of lead, you do not try and walk down Queen Street where there are so may distraction they have to check out. You start somewhere quieter and slowly build up the level of distractions. You need to learn to walk before you can run. A step the average pet owner does not understand

From Aussiepet.com.au I will have to check further.. I am sure it is in a printed catelogue here somewhere.. Those that cover hydatids.. generally say this... I think Sentinal covers some tapeworms, not all Sentinal Spectrum Drontal All wormer (including Hydatid Tapeworm) This is where it gets confusing.... Sentinal does mention Tapeworm, but does not mention Hydatid. The drontal all wormer mentions tapeworm (including hydatid)

I agree with the others.. A well timed and appropriate pull on a correction chain, does not do lasting damage to a dog. If you went to rip off the dog's head, then I would be saying that is too far.. The positive trainers who are so against correction chains, use that example.. A person using excess force on a correction chain. There is no such thing as 100% positive.. There are times where we do have to say "no" to our dogs, whether we use the word "no" or any other word.. If a dog goes to grab something off the table.. are you going to sit there and allow it??? OF course not! In some way we are going to stop the dog from doing that.. The dog wants the roast chicken from the table, you dont want the dog to have the roast chicken, and by not allowing the dog to take the roast chicken, we are effectively saying "no" (a negative) to the dog. I have no issues of people who know what they are doing, using scruff rolls where appropriate. In 99% of cases of the average dog, they would not be appropriate or needed. I also have no issues of electronic correction collars, electric fences, and prong collars. In the case of prong collars, again I think you really need to know HOW to use them before trying it, and use it accordingly to the type and temperament of the dog and the behaviour you are trying to modify. I train by praise, food, toys etc first. I also use a chain in my training. 99% of the time, I do not need to use it as a full correction chain. My voice is mostly what I need to correct the dog as I have sensitive dogs.. In most cases, a voice correction is all that is needed. A chain in my training program is to tell the dog that we are training. It is different from an every day collar that contain the council tags. A dog who does not know the boundaries and is not trained even in basic manners is more detrimental IMO to a dog that is trained. Even if you may not agree with the training methods used by the handler. If the RSPCA training program is not teaching manners at least and the dog is unruly, then that is a cause to call the RSPCA. Not everyone in society can effectively do the PP training. Timing needs to be perfect, and it takes practice to get that timing down to perfection. The average John Smith, does not have or want to put in that time and energy.

kamuzz, Not the Hydatids.

Pandii, I use Advantix (covers fleas & Ticks) or Advantage for fleas only and either Drontal or Paratak plus for all worms. I found frontline does not seem to do the job.. However I know others who sware by Frontline Plus and hate Advantage/Advantix. They are both roughly the same price. Paratak plus is slightly cheaper than drontal. But if you have a worm burden, then I would suggest using drontal. There is another product that can be used on dogs called Panacur. It is originally used for livestock, but is ok for dogs. It will do all.. It is in a liquid form and you have to dose 3 days in a row. You also have to slightly add a bit more for the spit out factor.

try www.thevetshed.com.au www.pricelesspets.com.au www.vetproductsdirect.com.au I think I got those links right.

Harnesses are good for one thing.. securing a dog in a car. For pulling they encourage it because they can get their whole chest into it and pull even harder. Haltis etc are like what people said.. good band-aids. The dog needs to learn NOT to pull. A martingale is good for those who believe chains are 'cruel'. A chain used correctly will not damage the dog. Too many people correct incorrectly with a chain. The correction is across the dog, so you pull against the side of the neck.. Most people pull upwards, pulling on the tender underside of the throat.. so the risk of damaging the esophagus is great. Haltis, people tend to want to pull sideways. again correction is wrong. They should be pulled up.. The problem I find with the brand "halti' is there is little movement in the fitting for dogs of large head size (staffies etc) and those dogs who have solid muzzles or long muzzles. A big dog or gentle leader has more room to fit those kind of dogs. A poorly fitted halti can also cause injury to underneath the eye socket as they ride up and dig in under the eyes. When teaching a dog to walk on a loose leash, you do the training at home first.. then slowly add more distractions. Same goes for halti.. you cannot fit it and walk out to a busy street and think that the problem is going to be fixed. They are all training aides.. with a key emphasis on TRAINING

Drontal only treats worms. All intestinal worms. Other wormers only do intestinal worms but not all tape worms. Advantage, Frontline Plus and a few other products do both such as revolution. But I do not know if they treat all worms. Some of those 'all in ones" do not do hydatids (tapeworms) so you need to get a tapewormer for those. capstar tablets kill adult fleas that are currently on the dog (it will start to work within 24 hours). That should be followed up with advantage, or frontline plus

I have a Conmurra single tank. They have sold out and the new people trade under a different name. The only thing I do not like about mine is it does not have a flat floor around the tank. rather than a hinged flap that you lift up, the whole cover lives up. And accordingly there is a lip around the tank. Makes it a little harder to clean at the end of the day. It is fibreglass so yes if you listen to the others they can crack. But like someone else has said, they can be repaired. It comes down to how well you look after it too. If you are the type of person who uses and abuses equipment, then it will reflect that. I have had mine now for about 5 years and it has not cracked. It has even survived a move from my place to the other half's and back again. Plastic ones can scratch, and bacteria can live in the scratches. It is personal preference on what you prefer and your budget. Mine is not autofill, however a hose fitting with those trigger nozzles does the job well. Mine is heated, but they take about 10 minutes to heat... Quicker to get a bucket of hot water from the laundry tub and pour into the tank to speed things along. Mind you by the time you groom the dog, clip nails etc.. The bath is nearly heated.

My point with the above testing is different labs have different testing protocols. When I had one of my bitches tested for CEA, it was with Optigen in the USA, they wanted blood. GSS who do the CEA test now do it by buccal swabs. My TNS/CL tests have all been done through Alan Wilton, who also likes blood. Those who have CL done with GSS take buccal swabs. I do not know if the swabs have a shelf life or if they are precoated with something for specific tests. That is where you will have to check with Gribbles for their procedure.

Catsmother, You may have to check with Gribbles to see if the swabs you have would be suitable. I have done the CL, TNS and CEA testing with my dogs, and different labs have different collection procedures.

Any shampoo can cause skin irritations. I was given samples of that shampoo ages ago. As I have a hydrobath, it is not suitable, so gave it away. I have a friend who cannot use Fido's where I can. When I use the Pine Oil from Aussipooch, it dries the coat of my border collies. It may be hormonal given the age of the puppy, however it may be something else. If you vet is not concerned, but you think the hair loss etc is getting worse, I would seek a second opinion. Depending on the lines of your border collie, there are some lines who are known for auto-immune disorders. It may be vaccination related as well, as vaccinations in some dogs are known to cause reactions. Also if you use any worming product containing Ivemectin, there are issues there as well as Collies as previously mentioned are known to be sensitive to this drug. The only way to know for sure is to do the MDR1 DNA test.

Catsmother, What are you bathing the dog in?? Some dog wash products can cause that too. I have used some that are way too harsh on skin and coat.. And believe it or not, one of them is the Fido's Oatmeal shampoo which is designed for sensitive skin. Dog wash products that use Teatree oil are commonly known to cause skin irritations as Teatree is very drying and takes out the natural oil in the dogs coat. With this rain, the grasses have come into full growtime.. I would look at any new grasses that have sprung up.. Particularly paspalum (Bahia grass) Found this flowering calender: Bahia grass There are always some general allergic tests you can do at home: Diet (for dry food people mainly): 1) Get rid of all treats, food scraps etc: 2) Feed only your dry food for 2 weeks. 3) add one of your treats for 2 weeks - reaction/no reaction? reaction.. identified cause. No: reaction - go to step 4 4) Remove first treat and give second treat for two weeks - reaction/no reaction?? Reaction - identified cause. No reaction - repeat steps 3/4 until you have gone through all diet stuff Pollens: Do a thorough search of your lawns, folia where you walk the dog etc, off leash park.. People often mistake the obvious pollens (ones that glare in your face like wattle) to be the cause.. Look for the unobvious ones.. such as grasses this even can be grass clippings. Chemical: Check what chemicals you use to clean your house/kennels.. The dogs may be reacting to this. Stop using those chemicals in favour of something else.. Elbow grease and mild detergent for example As previously mentioned, check what you are washing your dog in. Conditioners can be just a prime source as shampoos. Also deodorizers can cause allergies. Animal: Fleas, mites, mozzies etc many dogs develop or have flea allergies. It may only take one flea in severe cases. Mozzies also can cause irritations. For example: We have a horse here that has to be covered as he is allergic to mozzies.. Hormonal: Can be hormonal imbalance. Especially in fertile females and developing males. Desexed animals may also suffer from hormonal imbalance. As someone else has said, there can be 101 different things a dog may be allergic to. IF you go to the vet, they will get you to do the same thing as what I have just listed to rule out those common possible causes. Vets do recommend the use of human antihistamines. However, as they are prescribed for humans and not dogs, you have to be careful what dose you give them and what the active ingredient is. Many antihistamines contain other drugs which may not be safe for dogs. Like humans, the use of antihistamines is good for the short term, but long term use is not healthy and can be detromental to the dog. Allergies are not fun. The danger is not getting proper advice and recognition. Allergies can escalate very quickly. For example I have been mildly allergic to seafood. Vomiting, and bad headaches and the feeling as if someone had hit me over the head with a hammer. The other week I took two small ites of a chicken sushi contaminated with crabmeat.. I landed in hospital in full Anaphylaxis. The allergy had escalated dramatically. I now have to carry an Epipen - pure adrenaline. $110 or there abouts per pen which only lasts 12 months... cheap if you have to use it to save your life.. but if you avoid it.. While I was in hospital, there was a child in the bed next to me who on his first contact with peanuts had a headache.. On his second. he was in a worse situation to me.. He very nearly died.

swap ya...!!!!!!!!! My Canon 350D for the Nikon D70.... Friends got the Nikon and I much prefer it to the Canon. I find I am forever chasing light in the Canon. I went Canon because I had an old 35mm Canon film lens and my 200mm lens would fit.. I ended up buying a f1.8 50mm lens to get better speed. The lens kit that comes with it is ok. One day I will get around to selling my Canon and going for the Nikon.

I agree with Inspecter Rex. The list of symptoms can be a number of things, and the only SAFE way to the ROOT cause is to take the dog to a vet, preferably a specialist vet and get the appropriate tests done. While many of use antihystomines on our dogs for mild complaints, as the dosage is based for humans, I would still be getting some professional advise on what the dose should be.... Some of those products listed, are not just straight Anti-hystomine, but also contain other drugs.. Edit spelling

yep. given to dogs.. no issue. they liked it just as much as the normal sardines

Barbara Woodhouse I am quiet in my commands and praise. A lecture years and years ago... the lecturer said that the only thing that needs to hear you.. is the dog. Not the whole class. Whispering to the dog also make them more attune as he has to pick your voice out of the background noise. Dogs have good hearing I know.. but still, when you are in a class and the dog is listening to you and doing what you are saying while you are whispering.. while everyone else is yelling.. Hmm.. I will use loud voices as well to train to get used that that too, but why waste the energy if you get the same results with half the volume? I do excited whispers.. that seems to rev them a bit.

Chloe, My best advice is to get a professional behaviourist to look at the dog. Only by seeing its reactions, your knowledge and skills can a true and hopefully effective program can be devised for your dog. Everyone here will have a different opinion based on what you write. You may unintentionally leave out information which could drastically change what a professional would advise would be the best course of action in a program. There are many different ways to attack a problem. One way is not the only way or the only right way. But depending on YOUR situation, one method may give you negative results where it has given positive results with someone else. I have been rehabilitating a dog with a similar background for the last 14 months from what you write in your original post. All I can tell you, is that it is a long hard road with many heartaches where you will think that nothing is working and you may just want to give up. Conversely, there are also some really good moments that make you pleased and happy with your progress. On those dark days, take a break, have a kitkat and tackle it tomorrow.. Not all days are like that.

Through work, we have used pretty much all the main security companies within Brisbane... Unfortunately through work, not many of them are crash hot dog handlers. Have had dealings with many of them prefessionally.. and so far unfortunately they are all rednecks. Can't say too much more unfortunately without giving too much information.

All I can ask, is PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE do not turn into the rednecks we get at work who have security dogs. Have seen a number over the years in relation to my job, and the result of poor training, and even worse handlers. One security dog bit the police officer, the suspect and the handler on "the job".

you can also get "weepy eye" or general spectrum conjunctivitis drops at the chemist. Human stuff, but works just as well as dog eye drops for same thing If persists see a vet ETA: I have normally had results within 48 hours.. if longer. definately see a vet

You will also find that if you do allow the hair to grow back it also gets wirery.. It does grow back thicker and quicker. If the dog is clipped twice a year, the people would not know what the coat is doing. It is not given a proper chance to grow back in the first place. It also takes about three years of NON-CLIIPPING for the coat to get back to any semblance of what it was. Don't forget they have to do those sheds, then grow it back, not all the coat is grown back in one "season" shall we call it. Clipping is a personal choice I know. As ML said, young healthy dogs should not have to be clipped. IF you have do a clip do to a tick or something different kettle of fish. Also Macey, during the shedding time, regular warm baths, no need for soap, also helps blow the coat quicker. For one here who has a really thick coat and I did this with my husky years ago, I bathed weekly. Week one, warm water, week two was soap (flea rinse) to control any fleas that may be here.

Just keep his fluids up. Why the vet has given you the most blandest of bland diets is anything ritcher will most likely upset his stomach again and start the whole process over again. Puppies are as good as babies.. everything goes in the mouth.. aside from the stress of moving into a new home. Normally for the runs, you starve puppy for 24 hours then give them some very dry mixture, similar to what the vet described and not a lot of it as a lot of food after vomiting etc can cause it to happen again. There are products you can get to bind up the runs, but I will not mention them. Best to ask the vet.