Mystiqview

Torrents are not necessarily safe either... see post above.. The most times I have found embedded problems with scanners were in Keygens.. I know the algerythem can look like a trojen to a scanner.. but when I have downloaded some keygens fine and others come up with "warning".... I dump the ones with a warning.

I mainly use ISOHUNT with U-Torrent or Azeurus as the torrent handler program. Other sites include thepiratebay and mini-nova All are pretty good now as they have comments on how good it is. (Isohunt only has just gotten into comments) I normally only download the ones that have huge amount of seeds and leaches. The ones with little seeds and leaches may be ok, but it depends on the risk. In saying that I have downloaded programs that have had enbedded trojens in them from larger seed lists. But cannot stress enough: scan baby scan with virus scanners. I normally put two scanners through anything I download. Probably not the best places to be for a beginner or someone who does not know too much about computers.

Also have: PS Elements 6 Photoshop CS2 Adobe Premiere CS2 Dreamweaver 8 (web development)

There is this great website where you can download it....... As long as you have a good virus/trojen scanner... I am running PS3 currently

crap.. If only....... Hate sweepstakes!!!!! I know the reason for them.. but they still suck

I wonder then.. as Qld's.... If we travel over the border to say Tweed.... I wonder if we first compete in a novice trial down there.. we then do not have come back and do sweepstakes.. hmmmmm

If your dog is sensitive to Fish oils, I would also be wary about using Iodine/Betadine etc on cuts and wounds. Many common fish allergies are also liked to a sensitivity to Iodine. I myself and deadly allergic to Seafood and Iodine. To the point I have to now carry an Epi-pen.

Contact K9 Force to get Jane Harper's details. I dont have it handy at the moment. There is some training exercises you can do to maybe desensitise him. Complicated to explain here.

Cartrophen = Glucossamine... Vet specialist said to go to the human discount chemist and get the human glucaussamine tablets.. 1/3 dose for dog roughly (this is for Border Collie).. May take longer to see effects than an injection. But he said it is the same stuff as the tablets.

I have had a bitch on Metacam who vomitted and Diahorraed. She did it shortly after the initial injection. The vet said that the injection does not cause it.... THey have to be on it for some time orally. Later after about three days on it orally, vomited and diahorrea again..

Mine are microchipped. However they also wear I think they are called Ezy-dog collars. they are quite loose, so can easily slip on/off over their heads. They are also quite wide and are made from wetsuit material so they do not rub the coat excessively. The council tags are on them, along with a name tag with my phone numbers. It is a personal choice.

I would be going for softer type bones. Chicken necks, wings, turkey necks. Lamb brisket bones... Lamb flaps.. I would think shanks be a little to big at this point. I would still supervise as they may choose not to chew properly and they can get stuck or wedged. I would not be giving beef bones as these are lot harder and can break puppy teeth. Something to maybe consider when adult teeth are through - Beef Brisket.

in the offlead park.. when you call him back.. is it to take him home? If this is the case, I can see why he may not want to come back.. I would try what the others have done too.. I would also take some nice tasty treats to the park with you... while you are at the park. call him back.. give him some tasty treats and then let him go.. So he learns that "come" in the OLA is not just to go home.

Yes. My old dobermann.. He hated it.. He did it because he had to.. but never enjoyed it. I got him through CD, he was not a natural retriever anyway.. so.. well.. He did pet obedience as a pup, protection trained as a young adult, but pretty much left after that.. I started at an obedience club.. they found out I had pedigree dog so pulled him out of "retirement" to train up and compete.. But his early training I think brought the attitude of not liking it.. (He was trained using the old one, two three yank method)... This was standard training method about about 15 years or so ago.. So when I brought him out as a 6 year old.. I can understand his perspective.

Wilderblu, Depends on whether the parents have been tested, Not all people put up their results on BC Health. Some will post the DNA results on their individual website, but not always either. Short of doing the DNA testing yourself, the easiest would be to send her original breeder a quick email and ask them. As a breeder, I am sure they would love to know that a dog of their breeding has been rehomed elsewhere to the original home. Call it a courtesy thing.. They may even be able to give you some history and other information about that particular bloodline if you do not know it completely.

Mitch, Looks like a result from flash photography. Try taking some photos outside in natural light.. Or if you have an external flash, try pointing it away from the dog's face, get it to reflect off the roof or somewhere

Actually it is funny.. THe specialist at West Chermside here in Brisbane recommended going to the chemist and getting human "glucossamine" products. Said it is cheapest and is exactly the same. Said to third the dose for human to dog

YOu can also get Permoxin and mix it up in a spray, and spray the dog daily for 14 days. It is also good to use on bedding/carpet. it also takes Frontline/Advantage/tix up to about 3 days to start working on dogs depending on coat length. I would recommend Capstar tablets as well. This will only kill adult fleas that are currently on the dog. It works within the first 24 hours. But like others have said, you also have to treat the surrounding areas/bedding to prevent re infestation.

I was lucky. I used to have a protection trained dobermann... So he taught Jemma some warning tactics... Basicly run to the fence and bark madly... She does not do much else.. We are on acerage, so for her to run to the fence and bark.. A person already has driven INTO the property.. Jemma has since taught Rocky to bark at the fence when strangers appear.. and has also now pretty much taught Mia who is 8 months to bark at strangers. Other than that.. I have pretty much used the above to get them wary of outside noises.. Cars that pull up etc.. For the most part, I can get them to bark either on command, or if strangers turn up.. Mind you, as soon as they talk to the dogs... it is all on for pat.... But honestly.. I am just happy to have been warned there was someone there..

sounds like a nervous pee. Pups and young dogs are known to do this at times of stress/fear. Positive introductions and confidence building exercises as well as age can normally rectify these issues. The yellow pee, generally is concentrated urine. Meaning she is not drinking enough water or has not peed for a little while so it is more concentrated. If you are concerned about it, I would suggest you talk to your vet.

I would suggest you read the label of any product before use. This is not necessarily true. According to packaging, you can bath the dog. As long as the dog is completely dry before applying the product. It is recommended that you wait 24 hours before applying product. I am not surprised that Bayer has not heard of this before. I have used Advantix on a dog and have gotten a scorch/burn mark at the application. Bayer said it was a hot spot. Take the dog to the vet. Get it treated. It may be coincidence that it was applied at the same time the dog had an allergic reaction to something else, especially as you said that he already has allergies. Maybe has developed an alergy to Advantage.. Hence proper veterinary advice.

Yep BC's are pretty useless as any guard dog... You can train them to be more alert and make a lot of noise.. A 6 month old puppy is still finding their feet... so do not worry too much if she does not have a lot at the moment. One way is to bring the dog inside.. and arm yourself with heaps of tasty treats.. Get someone to go outside.. go for a walk, then walk around the house rattling windows and doors.. You on the inside go something like "who is it - watch" or what ever words you want to use. If the dog sort of looks up.. turns its head or anything.. go "good dog" and give it a treat.. You put some concerned tone to your voice.. to make the dog wary.. act a little 'scared" too. It may take a little while.. but hopefully you will get the dog to bark at strange noises. Once she has barked.. then tell her.. "Good girl.. who is it.." if she barks again, praise and give a treat.. Once you have determined that she has barked enough.. say "that will do" when she is quiet.. give her a treat. Get friends etc to do this.. Glad to hear everyone is ok

I crate train all my puppies NEXT TO THE BED. I normally get a plastic PP40 or wire crate. This goes next to the bed. I will an old shirt or something that I have warn for awhile in the crate with bedding. If they want to whimper etc, I can go "ssshhh" go to sleep.. or let them out for toilet in the middle of the night. They are there with you, they can hear you sleeping, so this will "reassure" them (for want of better word). They are not in the bed, They are learning a routine, I have given them their "own space", they are safe as well. I love crate training. Some don't like it. It is proving great now, as I have a puppy with a broken toe.. so has to be crated.. The establishing the crate as friendly at 8 weeks has proven a lifesaver at 8 months. My dogs are allowed on the bed, etc.. On request from me. Some people think that a dog should never be the same height as the owner. I don't necessarily agree with this sentiment. However, the dog should know that you are the boss, they are the dog.. If you are happy with them on the bed then that is fine.. The only thing I would do is make sure they know the rules. JRT can be stubborn and you may have your work cut out for you later if the rules are not set now. I don't necessarily believe in bringing home a new puppy and sticking them straight in the laundry. Done that and boy did I hear about it.. ALL NIGHT for about three nights. I have found the crate training, and putting the crate next to the bed for the first few nights up to a week... then out in the loungeroom (for me) works best.. you can put the crate where-ever after that first week... I also have mats by the bed... My dogs know their mats and will happily sleep on them..

Vanessa, The pup should stay with the litter mates until at least 7 weeks of age. The littermates will also teach the pup bite inhibition and other puppy manners during play. If the breeder has older dogs, and the pup has access to those, they should be able to teach the puppies manners with older dogs. If the breeder does not have older dogs, I would suggest they "adopt" a good easy going older dog for the duration of about 4 weeks to 7-8 weeks. As for what you can do: This is what I do for my puppy buyers: I get them to wear and old shirt or something for about a week and give that to me which goes in with the puppies. They will drag it around etc. They will be able to smell you on it. When you collect the puppy from the breeder, they give you this shirt back. I would also drop off some plush toys. I normally buy really cheap ones either from the markets (human baby plush toys) or ones from Crazy Clarks etc. You put this shirt with the puppy's bedding. I crate train all my puppies, so for me it will go into the crate. As the shirt now has all the smells from the breeder and the littermates on it, it will give the puppy something familiar to what it has known at your place. Have found this helps settle in new puppies. My puppy buyers have also found this does work. The other thing, would be if it is possible, I would visit your puppy weekly so he and his littermates get used to people as well as your puppy gets used to you. ETA: If there are any doubts WHAT SO EVER about puppy temperaments, the breeder or the dogs. THEN DO NOT TAKE ON THE PUPPY. I would say this for anyone who is getting a puppy, even from a litter of "normal" circumstances.

The steriods is to basicly stop the immune system temporarily. The antihystomines will reduce the body's hystomines from attacking the allergen. The Ireemine, may be an anti-inflammitory... You should see drastic relief fairly soon... It may take a couple of more days for all the swelling to completely come down. I am highly allergic to shellfish....The other week I ate something containing crab without knowing it. I had to have a shot of adrellaline.. A shot of Anti-hystomine and a shot of quartisone.... Plus I was given a step down dose of steriod..for three days... Took two days for the swelling in my throat to completely come down.. Took about the same as long as that for the paid in my chest to ease. And took about a week to fully get over the whole thing. I now carry an Epi-pen..... But hate to say it.... Coming down of Adrellleline and steriods.. WOW.... not an experience I want to live again too soon.