Mystiqview

I was only referring to the part where "it can take 4 days to start giving an animal trouble". This comment is certainly not true. The larger/heavier the animal, generally speaking, you may get longer before symptoms start to show. However I have seen the opposite. I was not referring to you not taking precautions or claiming you are not responsible. Only that animals can succumb earlier than 4 days depending on a variety of factors. As for your question on permoxin - I have seen it kill ticks quickly and I have also seen it not kill ticks for some hours even if put on straight. I don't believe it is like products like Frontline/Advantix that are oily in their nature and has water-fast properties. Permoxin dissolves in water, so if you bath your dog - it will was out. I had one BC puppy around 10 weeks old and 7 kilos succomb to tick paralysis within 12 hours and then down the vet on a drip for two days. I remember this as she was too young for any conventional tick treatment. Permoxin, tick collars and at the time Proban all could not be given until the dog was 12 weeks. Since then - I mix up a concentrated Fidos (as this can be used on puppies younger than 12 weeks) into a spray bottle and spray the pups twice daily with this. There are also products (Bayer makes powder that you mix with water) you can buy which you mix with water and spray the immediate environment. Not a long term solution, and I don't know how well it would last if it rained - but helps in the short term. Again checking twice daily for ticks. My adult dog - One tick, only small not fully engorged so had not been on there long. She was only slightly wobbly - not full paralysis. It took that adult dog nearly 6 months to fully recover back to competition condition. I have long haired dogs and yes I live in a very high tick area as well. Have for the last twenty something years - It is something you get used to dealing with. I just make a point of checking them over thoroughly twice a day as well as using tick collars/baths. If I find a tick, I get the surgical tweezers and pull it out and squash it.

Sorry. Not true. It depends on a number of factors. Weight of dog, overall health of dog, size of tick, how many and whether the individual animal is more sensitive than other animal. I have had an adult 15kg border collie succumb to tick paralysis within 24 hours from one tick. I have seen a 10kg cat with heaps of ticks have no effect for days before showing signs. I have known people who have bathed in permoxin, fidos tick or even harder chemicals such as Maldacin/Malaban and sprayed it on and not kill ticks immediately. I have known someone who has bathed their dog in tick shampoo and did all the right things only to have their dog come down with tick paralysis 12 hours later. This was an experienced breeder, living in a tick environment who is no novice to ticks. Spray your dog/bath in tick shampoo and keep a close eye on it for the next week, I am pulling 5 plus ticks off my dogs daily. I even pulled a tick off myself today from my property. I live with ticks all year round. They are no longer not active in winter as we are just not having that real cold period any more.

I know this all too well. I was an animal management officer. The excuses some people gave when dumping their animals at the pound was amazing. We had drop off boxes out the front for after hours. If they tried to do it during the day they would be charged a surrender fee. So they just came back after hours and put them in the drop off box for free. We had one cattle pup 12 weeks old bought from PP only a week before. It was nipping the child. (Like hello!!). It was dumped with all the PP paperwork. Cost them $1000 to buy the pup. Free to dump.

In an ideal world, the person/family who takes on the responsibility of a pet should take the responsibility of rehoming that pet should they not be able to look after it. A pet is not like a toaster or any other appliance that if it's broken, throw it away and get a new one. That same person/family should also see to the proper training/care such a dog would need BEFORE taking on the responsibility and do their damn research to see if the breed and indeed the individual animal will suit their lifestyle. It's great to love a breed, but not all breeds/animals are suitable for every family. I get heaps of enquiries for border collies for a gift for a child's birthday. No pet should be a "gift" unless the person receiving the gift is actually wanting and is able to look after the pet. I have and will take back dogs which I bred. However if the person who has bought the dog from me has someone lined up who is capable of looking after said dog, then this is perfectly fine by me. No use shipping a dog back from Melbourne to Brisbane if there is a good home in Melbourne that will take it. However I have been in a position where I already had full numbers at my place and it would not have been possible to take back such a dog for an extended period of time. This can make it hard for breeders to take back animals. Breeders certainly should try to assist in finding a home for the animal. Just to put the question out there: But really at the end of the day... We bred the dog/cat yes.. We found what was thought to be a good home yes.... If their circumstances have changed, why is it still our fault or responsibility possibly years later to find another home for that animal - especially if the reason for the rehoming is nothing to do with the breeder or the way it was bred (eg health or temperament issues from a genetic disposition). I will still take back dogs I bred - that is not the point of the above question. The dog I did take back years ago - I had to take to the vet to be put down as the person who bought it and the subsequent people that dog went to destroyed it. If I had known much sooner the person I sold that dog to was having problems looking after it, I would have taken it back and it may be alive today. I would sooner do this myself than have an unknown vet at the pound do it. I was there when it took its first breath, I was there when it took its last. Also. So many times - breeders don't know their dog has been rehomed or dumped until well after the fact. That can also play a difficult part in taking back dogs of their breeding.

Oops double post

I don't think it is much doing away with it per sae. More like restricting its broad use to encourage more breeders and show dogs. They seem to have this belief that the limit register is the root cause for dwindling show entrants and an increase in BYB. People have to WANT to show.. And I don't think the LR is the root cause. It is becoming an expensive sport for start. And as for BYB - well those that don't want to become registered breeders won't.. Those that are serious will. Those that bred with their "pedigree" limit registered dog and advertise only "from registered pedigree parents - pups not registered" will do the same with a MR animal.

I am glad then I did not take up the Vet nurse one with them D'smum. I did my uni degree by correspondence (QUT Brisbane) as I worked full time and could not afford to give up work to study. It is hard work, but at least I could have gone into lectures if I wanted/needed to. AND I had the support there if it was needed.

A topic has come up at our 4x4 club regarding dogs on trips and insurance. There has been a couple of incidents where one dog has "attacked" another dog/person. So the issue has come up with regards to insurance and the injured party suing not only the owner of the dog but also the Club and club committee members for damages. Normally you would think "Inc." (incorporated) would protect members from such. Apparently the club/ state governing body insurance does not cover dogs on trips and any injury they cause. Mind you 4x4 is already a dangerous sport. Some committee members have spoken to various legal firms - for everyone one that says the committee would be safe unless they were proven negligent - there is an opposite one saying they're not covered and could be sued. So the debate has come up on whether clubs should ban all dogs on trips. I have been asked to look at Dog club/ANKC type insurance as this is the main focus of the club so the insurance policy should cover such an incident. I have looked at the policy from Dogs Qld from their website - however it would not seem it specifically mentions injury from dogs (even so far as someone trips over your dog/lead and breaks an arm). Can anyone point me or shed some light on whether club insurance covers committee members from dog injuries while hosting a dog related activity?

I had a bitch who had a spintca loosening with age. Basicly, it is the muscle that controls urine flow. There is from memory tablets you can get from the vet for this. I agree- see a vet and see if it is an infection or something that may need treatment. You can also use pull up nappies (for toddlers) cut a hole in the back for the tail. Otherwise there are various sanitary pants where you just slip in a super pad. Depends on how much urine they leak, these may not be suitable. There are other larger dog sanitary pads for incontinence. I have smaller ones I use to stop the blood dots in the house when a bitch is in season

Jus trace. Have a look in the garden section on the very bottom shelf. They are generally not at eye height.

PME - yes the course is accredited. However I know from the apprentices at work - there are courses and there are courses. Some are better recognised than others as being more relevant (for want of a better word) or are better recognised by industry as the better course to do. When I was doing the research from a few vets about how the course is regarded within industry and if they recommended certain courses. One thing they all said was they have found those with a large percentage of online learning, all students knew the theory up top but lacked the practical skill within a surgery environment. This is even with their industry placement/experience. Lets face it - nursing is something pretty hands on. Yes you need the theory and knowledge, but you also need a pretty good practical skill as well, and with that is practice. The other concern is if for some reason you are unable to continue with the course - you are locked into their payment for the WHOLE course. Whereas say going to TAFE/TECH - you pay per semester. You may loose a few hundred dollars with TAFE... With something like this course - it could be thousands. As I said, I am not so worried about the $5000. I paid much more than that going to Uni in HECS fees. Its whether THAT course is a good investment when it comes time to finding employment at the end. I should also mention - I am nearly 40 so doing a complete career change now is also a consideration of whether employers think I am "TOO OLD". I need to make the right choice more than ever.

If the litter is advertised... the puppies are resulting from the mating of two pedigree animals. No different to the old days before WE HAD to register all the puppies. I don't agree with the practice - however I can see why some will cash in on the loophole. Most pet owners do not really care for papers and how many would REALLY check or chase up the papers? Another thing - Should the stud dog owner also have to check with Canine to make sure the owner/breeder of the bitch is a current member and/or not on a suspension? Or the bitch possibly on a third litter within 18 months etc? Does not sound like it in this case - but if a bitch owner presented a bitch for mating and presented main registration papers for a dog of that breed - who are we to REALLY know if the bitch presented IS that bitch (short of having a microchip scanner) or the person is also holds a current valid Canine membership? Sometimes you can only go by what information is presented to you, and sometimes that information can be a well convincing lie and you may not know the difference.

Think it depends on what you are putting in it too (if using for compost). Somethings more acidic may eat the coating quicker than others. Some of the stuff we had placed around, we got some lengths of irrigation pipe, cut in 10-20cm lengths then cut a groove in the "top" and pushed it onto the bottom of the mesh making "feet" for the bottom thus lifting it off the ground a bit.

Go to a local dog show or even if there is a speciality coming up in your area. If you go to Dogs NSW website, they should have a page where you can download the current months show schedules that will tell you when and where the next shows are. Within each breed there are "looks" and "type" that will be pertaining to certain bloodlines. You will often hear XYZ dog is from ABC bloodline by its look or type. Find a "look" that you particularly like within the breed (a bit more than a straight back - I know what you mean :) then look for those with good temperament. Talk to the people there at the show. Best time to talk them is AFTER they go into the ring - before hand they are very busy grooming/preparing.

I know the vet nurse one is over $5k... and you do get harrassed by email/phone by them. You have to do 480 hours work experience/placement.... no problem there.. When I rang a few vets including mine that do a lot of placement for UQ and a couple of other ones. The general comments are they don't know much about the course and the problem they are finding with online courses is practical experience. Even with the 480 hours - you do not get enough hands on in a vet surgery and the surgery then needs to spend more time with students/graduates teaching them the practical stuff - more so than if a student went to some other training institutes. I am now second guessing the course. While I don't mind paying the $5K if that is what the course is worth (paid more for a uni degree), I don't want to be spending the money on a course that is not widely industry accepted or recognised as being a "good one" Something to consider.

Here local council rego is up to the buyer. All local councils around Brisbane don't require the owner to register the pup until it is 3 months old. Just in the immediate surrounding area we have four different local councils, so it would depend where the new owner loves. My last litter, all pups went interstate. New puppy buyers should be given or have a transfer form for the microchip company unless the breeder did it directly in the new owners name. Queensland I think is still the only state where breeders can register the litter straight into new owners name. Other states pups are registered into the breeders name and then it has to be transferred to the new owner. Queensland also does not charge a different amount for main verses limit registrations. They do charge more if a transfer is done after 14 days from sale.

As Steve said, for ANKC pedigree - both sire and dam must be on Main Register. The bitch must be in the name of the breeder's prefix (eg. Co owned dog must be leased or transferred back into the name of the person/s prefix.) The stud dog owner also must be a member of a state canine body at the time of the mating. (Eg. Dog sold as a pet to a non ANKC member must be leased or transferred to a financial member of an ANKC affiliated state body) Breeders also have 18 months to register the litter. Most ethical breeders will try to get the papers done and through as soon as possible once the litter is either vaccinated/microchipped or sold. So if you have a "slack" breeder you may be waiting awhile. Most canine controls I think take about 14 working days to process the papers. They are then sent back to the breeder to sight and check for accuracy and then the breeder needs to send them off to the puppy buyers. I believe other states are following suit, but in QLD to register a pup on the limit register, the new puppy buyer MUST sign a limit register agreement which is sent in with the original litter registration or if already registered on main and being downgraded to limit with the transfer of the papers. This second scenario could happen if the buyer is getting an older pup the breeder may ran on for awhile.

In Queensland we can register pups straight into the new owners name. If the pups are registered say at 6 weeks in the breeders name, then we need to sign the back for the transfer. I do try to get the papers back if all the pups are sold by 8 weeks. They also get a copy of a seven generation family tree as generated by breedmate. If pup is sold on limit register, dogs qld require the new puppy buyer needs to sign an agreement (that they understand the pup will be sold on the limit registration) which is then sent in with the registration papers. If in co-own or partnership, dogs qld require their partnership form filled in and sent in with the registration. Microchip papers - we are supposed to do the microchips in our name when we do it. I do mine at 6 weeks with the vaccinations. Puppy buyers receive in their puppy packs a signed transfer form for the microchip company used. One microchip sticker is placed on the vaccination card, one on the pedigree paper and one on the transfer form. The problem of doing it straight into the new puppy buyers name is if they change their mind. It has happened to me and the microchip companies do not recognise you as the breeder. The pup gets "sold" with the old puppy owners name on the microchip. When the new puppy buyer sends in a transfer request without the "current owners " signature" on the transfer, a letter is sent to the "owner" stating a transfer has been put in and do they agree to it. If nothing is heard back in two weeks the transfer takes place without the old owner having a say about it. I don't know what happens if the old owner does object. I will never now do the microchip straight into the new buyers name. I do however have transfer papers printed with all the details filled out, with my signature and get them to compete the forms when they are picking up the pup and send them off myself to the microchip company. I know then it has been done. For those that are sold interstate it can create an issue if they don't send off the change of microchip forms. The dog is still in my name. Not good if they lose their dog. I am contacted first not them. Then you have to hope your contact for them is still current. It is the owners responsibility to keep the microchip details up to date. Not the breeder. Many people forget to update the microchip details. Health: all puppies come with their vaccination cards. Copies of the parents health tests (DNA results and profiles, eye tests, hip and elbow) and for one litter, I Baer tested them. So they got those as well. Breed info: they get a comprehensive booklet on diet, grooming, and general care, breed health issues, worming, when their next vaccinations are due etc, a list of recommended online vet shops for medications, links and further reading. They also get leaflets on crate training, basic obedience and toilet training. They also get brochures from the breed club, dogs qld and various pet food companies.

This is what many buyers think they are getting when they ask for a dog with "papers". They want a dog that they could put in a dog show if they wanted and call purebred/pedigree and be confident about that. They want a dog that reflects the characteristics of its breed - otherwise they might as well rescue a mutt puppy from a shelter. But the ads say "registered" when they mean with Council, and papers when they mean stuff they printed themselves or vaccination papers or even the microchip papers. I've actually had that conversation with dog owners - what papers? oh - vaccination and microchip... yes but you can't show the dog and you'd have to get it desexed to enter most dog sport competitions like obedience and agility etc. I've even had people who wanted a "Show dog" be fooled by "council registration". They think a "show dog" is something they can get at the local pet shop puppy supply or off gumtree/trading post. It's all very well to say "papers" and "registered" don't mean members of dogs vic or some other breeder association (eg working dogs) with records of each dog's ancestry and performance but that's not now the general public read it. I know. Have seen this pop up time and again. I have even been asked as a breeder to supply my credentials to an interstate puppy buyer. Happy to do so. I have also prosecuted BYB for violating council bylaws. The problem is - they may not technically be lying and it may not be fraud legally. Morally/ethically - completely another argument. They ARE "registered" - just because they are only registered with council and not DogsXXX does not mean they are not lying. And just because they say it comes with "papers" does not also mean technically lying either. If the dog comes with a puppy pack, a copy of the parents parental history and a vaccination/microchip paper - is still "papers". Get a good lawyer and the seller could get off. See the same her in Qld with "Registered" and "papers" all the time on Gumtree etc. Some here thankfully clarify "registered" to mean registered with local council and papers to include vaccs etc. Others who advertise registered clarify and state they are members of Dogs Qld and specify what papers the pups come with (limit/main registration). I know registered breeders who have advertised litters on DOL, gumtree etc where the pups were either were not being registered (possibly prohibited mating) or were not able to be registered because the dogs bred were of another breed they have not belonging to the ANKC registry. It is always buyer beware.

Note some breeders - especially of cross breeds - will print their own "papers". Which mean nothing and have no legal standing at the moment. There are groups of the designer mongrels who have started their own "group" to which they say they are registered with XYZ association. Also to note: There are also some legitimate dog groups around (Working sheepdog of Australia) that are not recognised by the ANKC, but are legitimate registries. To advertise they have "papers" is not necessarily fraud. The parents may have ANKC papers. The "breeder" gives you a copy of the parent's papers. That is supplying you with papers of the parents. The breeder is registered with the local council - they are registered. (just not with ANKC). Depends on how the ad is written and what the person tells others in correspondence. If they were asked if they belonged to Dogs Victoria and they led the buyer to believe they were when not - then yes there is potentially a case. If the buyer does not ask questions and only presumes - there lies the danger.

Some councils also require breeder permits in order to breed cats and dogs. Brisbane City council and Moreton Bay regional council are toe that require breeder permits. In Brisbane to get a breeder permit, you need to have an ANKC prefix. Moreton used to be the same, however they now allow unregistered ANKC breeders to obtain council breeding permits. This is on top of council registration for each animal. There are also pet industry groups such as PIAA - these look after pet stores and their supply chains. A person/"breeder" can pay membership to them. None of these have any standing with ANKC membership and kennel prefix. A breeder can sell a puppy on limit registration/not for breeding or a lovely pet home. Even on limit registration there is nothing stopping the person from breeding with the animal, short of the breeder desexing the pup prior to sale. Limit registration papers are still pedigree papers. The limit just prevents an ANKC sanctioned breeding program (and showing). But to the BYB they are still pedigree papers proving pedigree. They can quite legitimately advertise from "pedigree parents" and list XYZ champion bloodlines as this will be on the papers. The first thing if a person is seeking a pedigree dog from sites such as gumtree/trading post is to ask those who claim they are "registered" is to ask if they are registered with WHOM. if they are dodgy on their answer, then buyer beware. If honey give you a prefix name, you can also ring the state controlling body and ask if the prefix is current (or not under a suspension) and if you know the name of the seller, confirm the name against the prefix. Contacting a state breed club could also advise if the prefix is legitimate. As for the pet owner and pedigree papers. If you look down the track to compete in any ANKC dog sports such as obedience, herding, flyball. Dancing with dogs, rally o etc, the pedigree papers allows you to compete as a pedigree dog rather than sporting class or associate register. In addition, if a new genetic issue is found (hope this never happens), a track of lineage if genetic may be helpful to find out if your dog may be at risk. For the most part, pedigree papers will not have a large bearing on pet owners. Depending on which state you are from, they are not largely expensive. Some states have different fees for main or limit register, however in QLD our papers cost about $40 for either main or limit.

I would check with the state controlling body where you are getting your dog. They can tell you whether the breeder is truly registered. Unfortunately many BYB breeders are "registered" with their local council or the dogs themselves a registered with the local council. That means diddly squat to pedigree. Some may also be registered with one of the pet dog industry groups (like the ones breeding for pet shops). I have seen on Gumtree many that fall into this category. Of course some proper registered breeders advertise there as well, and they should be able to tell their prefix straight up. If they can't or won't then good chances they are just BYB or not following the code of ethics It is a requirement of breeders now to register all pups within the litter. In qld it is mandatory to provide papers to the buyer. All the breeder has to do to transfer them is sign the. Ack of the certificate. Not too hard. If she registered them at 6 weeks after the microchips were some, they should have been sent back to her by the CCC by 8 weeks. Sounds dodgy. I would avoid this "breeder" I hope you have not paid a deposit already. Which you may not get back

I have had some bitches not go off their food at all. The belly dropping quite a bit is pretty good sign. I have had some also that don't nest right up until the last stage. Has she started to pant a lot and be quite restless? Keep an eye out for contractions, she could be having them, but they are not enough to start labor properly. I had that with one bitch - had complete uterine inertia and needed to have a C-sect. Have you made the whelping box a den? If not, grap a couple of high backed chairs or put a table over it and then drape a sheet over the sides to create a den. Sometimes this will help with nesting and her feeling more secure and not so open. Even if 63 days is today, she still could be a day or two out - depending on when she actually ovulated. Whether it was at the time of the mating, a day before or after. If nothing in two days, then I would talk to your vet.

Yep, have done. Just thought I would get some opinions of recommended breeders, as Dogzonline is where my friend Deb got her puppy from that has had a multitude of problems Oh Wow! No, she didn't get the puppy from Dogzonline but from a breeder who is listed as an independent breeder on the puppy pages of Dogzonline. If your friend's dog has problems she should take it up with the breeder. There is no way I would buy from the DOL puppy pages without a personal recommendation. Word of mouth is the best way to do it. A personal recommendation isn't much good unless it comes from a known ethical breeder or a person whom may have purchased and is more than happy with that breeders service. I would personally still be wary of breeders that only breed for profit. I only recommend breeders that I personally know and will never knowingly do you any harm with the dog that is sold. Unfortunately the only/main criteria to advertise on the DOL puppy page is a current ANKC recognised prefix. It does not stop potentially unethical/high volume "registered" breeders from advertising. Ethics and morals are a whole different kettle of fish. There are many in my breed who have consistent ads up for puppies/multiple upcoming litters 24/7/365 days a year, with it constantly updating for what they have this month. I am sure other breeds have similar breeders. A regular look at the puppy pages over a period of time can easily identify those who such breeders are and what their target audience is. Always pay to do your research

Copperkee www.copperkee.com/ Good honest breeders