Mystiqview

Try dogtainers or such flying through Virgin. AES fly with Qantas and they are much more expensive than Virgin ETA: I recently (November 2009) had a pup flown in from Perth to Brisbane. Here are the quotes of prices her breeder got: Qantas PP40 (max 20kg) $421.00 PP20 (mxx 10kg) $273.00 Virgin PP40 $283.41 Dogtainers $215.00 on a Qantas flight using our own PP40 $175.00 on a Virgin flight using our own PP40

Yeah and who do you think supply Pets Purgatory with their puppies.... BYB puppy farmers! There used to be two shall I say dark skinned Australians live across the road and up a bit (we had them removed by housing commission - different story). They had a bitch and a dog.. the bitch was always in whelp. They used to take them across the road to Coles at Appleby road and flog them off in a shopping basket. That or they sold them off for their drug money. There are a few around here who constantly have/breed puppies.. See them when we walk our lot. Unfortunately Chermside and Stafford and parts of the surrounding suburbs are full of housing commission. I am sure there are some good housing commission people who genuinely need the assistance, but mlost of the ones around here are filth.

Teamwork Dog Obedience Link as well are very good. Some very experienced and very good trainers there. They train at a variety of locations on the north-side. Caboolture is also pretty good. Their training starts I think about 7pm, a bit earlier than Metro (8:15pm) Depends on where you are. Metro is on Monday nights, Pine Rivers on a Friday night.

We brought our Hilux new in November 2007. It is the BEST car. It tows our caravan and horse float like a dream!!!! It isnt a turbo either. It is a fantastic car. We havent had an ounce of trouble with it and is super comfy. It is also our "family" car so we go everywhere in. I love it. One of my good friends brought the same one as mine a couple of months earlier then i did and hers is just as great. I cant comment on the older ones though. If you have the D4D model (from 2005 onwards), they are already factory turbo as standard. They are also common rail technology which is different to the older model diesels. Whereas the models before the D4D were either standard diesel or optional factory turbo. ETA: Corrected hilux models.

I have read the topic all the way through properly: Make sure you buy a factory turbo diesel. Without and they do not pull the skin off custard! I bought a 2001 3L Diesel. If I knew then what I know now, I would have bought a factory turbo. I ended up putting an aftermarket turbo on it which is worth nearly $5K with 2" exhaust. I am about to change the diff centres from the standard Hilux to the diff centres off the factory turbo, that will drop the revs while cruising on the hiway. Sorry getting technical here. You pay more for a turbo diesel, but you really do need one. Even just going up those hills around Brisbane, let alone getting up and down the range at Oceanview. If you buy second hand, be careful about where and who owned it previously. 4WD by nature can be abused by those who go 4WD. With a hilux, you should be reasonably ok, unless it has been lifted or contains diff lockers etc. But if it has heaps of accessories on it already, then go with caution as it will more than likely been offroad or on the beach and subject to more wear and tear than one that hasn't. If you also buy second hand, watch things like when the timing belt was last changed. If that goes, you say goodbye to your motor. The book on some hilux's say to change at 150,000 kms, others at 120,000 kms. I change mine at 100,000 to make sure as mine also gets offroad. I have a canopy on mine. very handy. If you go camping, you can put your stuff in the back and it will stay dry. If you go for a cage, then if you need to transport stuff when its raining, your're stuffed. I have a back cage I had made so I can open the back and the dogs stay inside safe and sound when we are out somewhere. I had it made at EDS Fabrications at Brendale. I originally had it made for AU Falcon, and with a few changes (couple of new holes) to the brackets, it now fits the Hilux. This is not the best photo of it, but all I have here at work:

I briefly instructed at that club when I was that side of town. You are limited in a way by your manual and what it is each week you teach as they do structure it a little.. Stand this week, stays next week. Also greatly depends on which class you are rostered on. The hardest part as you are aware, is spending time with those who are lagging behind and not forgetting those who don't need the extra assistance. Also greatly depends on how many in your class. You could try running some sort of "game" to get the pupils interested and actually training at home. #1 issue I see.. they don't spend the time mid week. Maybe a reward to someone (nothing great) (pigs ear or something) if they say, come next week with a new trick. or something to get them heeling. Maybe an obstacle course, where they have to heel, drop stay, stand etc at different markers. Takes a little away from the old fashioned paddock bash while still learning the basics.

I have one BC who lives with my folks for most of the time. She is home with us at the moment as hubbie is on holidays. She prefers to spend her time on the couch or at your feet. We have medium sized suburban back yard. At the moment I have four BC's there. Two pups and two adults. They spend time running around the back entertaining each other mostly. I might get them to the park maybe once/twice a week. The rest of the time, they have free access to us. Mia will only cause problems when there are no humans around. She will dig or bark. If there be humans around, she is content to lie at your feet. Again, I think it depends on temperament of the dog, your lifestyle and what you do with the dog.

They bake as well as the trays get awfully hot in the sun. So like what has already been posted already.. A cage at minimum with a good top on it. Also provides a safeish storage for gear when the dogs are not inside. It also prevents people from stealing dogs from the back of the ute if you have to duck into the shops. I have a duel cab ute. I have put a canopy on mine. I also have a back grill so I can open the back and let fresh air in if I have to stop somewhere. Here is a photo of the cage setup:

Where is this breeder? If they are in WA and I think still SA, you do not have to register ALL puppies in a litter. I know to register pups in WA is a lot more than in Qld. From what I have been told, you have to pay a litter registration, then puppy registrations. I don't get it, as we in Qld have to register all surviving puppies in the litter and we have the benefit of registering straight into the new owners names. Still... $100 difference is just wrong. I have heard of breeders in Qld/NSW who do the same.. Litter Regos only cost $30/pup. Secondly, as far as the Gazettes go, also unless you read the litter notices, you do have no idea how many litters some registered breeders pump out per year. If you do not read through the results, you also have no idea who is getting titles (conformation or sporting) or not. Some breeders are very good sales people. Unfortunately for some, the flashy website and their sales techniques hide what is under the surface.

Rather than say don't go to XYZ breeder whom you know are "registered" puppy farmers. Just don't include them on your list of recommendations if you don't have puppies available. It is something I do. I won't tell a person NOT to go XYZ. That is slander and it also can make you look malicious. It also lowers you down to the other breeder levels who do do this. Enough breeders bag each other's dogs in private to other friends/breeders. Joe Public does not need to hear it, nor would they care either I think. If they bring up that breeder in conversation saying they were looking at puppies, I will just not add any comment. I tend to more say "Make sure temperaments of the parents/pups are good, the health testing done or make sure you are VERY comfortable with the terms of their contract (and give examples of a simple contract like desex before certain age to a harsh one where they my pay full price for a dog/bitch and the breeder wants X number of return stud rights free)" or something else along those lines. I may even say, try ABC breeder to steer the conversation away from the one the puppy buyer mentioned. I also advise puppy people to go and see if they can look at breeders adult dogs and puppies if there are any (even if they are all sold). I tell them to ask the breeder they want to look at what their puppies are like and to see if they like that particular "Style". Within all breeds, there are certain styles depending on the foundation bloodline. I also advise them to leave their wallets at home and take a friend so they are not tempted to put a deposit on the cute fluffy puppy in front of them. This gives them time to go home and think about it and evaluate what they have just seen.

Camp Tailwaggers on the Gold Coast hinterland...!!! Just make sure your tick preventative is up to scratch.

Males, leave as close to a 12 months as possible. His retained may drop anytime up to 6 months. However the longer it is not dropped the more chance there is it will be retained. When you say retained, are they in the tubes and moving up and down or still in the abdomen? They do need the testosterone for development. If he gets too much trouble earlier because he is a whole male, then re-evaluate the issue then. There is also chemical castration you can do between 6-12 months of age until you get him desexed if he develops behavioural issues because he is entire. I personally don't see how a retained testicle will be much of a problem if the dog is between 6-12 months of age. If left entire for a couple of years, then yes, I can certainly see issues. Best to ask your vet on this one. I have heard of testicles dropping at 6 months of age. Females I have no problems desexing at 5-6 months. Some people do not have the facilities to cater to a bitch on heat. Depends on the lines. I have had some bitches come into heat around 6 months and others not until after 12 months of age.

I will only use Rowan. I never found him too pricey. And he does not give you what you don't need. If there is an alternative therapy he will advise, or if there is a veterinary type drug/medicine he will advise accordingly. Will not touch the other two mentioned. Not heard of Gary Pitt so cannot comment.

I generally use Paratek Plus All wormers. SUpermarket ones I have heard a number of reports that they are pretty crap. And like already said, you get what you pay for. I order my stuff from an online vet place and it works out much cheaper in the end. Drontal is good, and yes you pay through the nose for it. For me, I don't need the chewable tablets as mine take normal tablets without issue

Hi all, This is also posted in Breeders, but for those who cannot answer in there: With the introduction of the new microchipping laws, I have found I am in a quandry. I have no problems with microchipping puppies before they leave however: You cannot microchip before 8 weeks of age. I wish to DNA test a number pups for a genetic disease in the breed, pending for Main Registration: To be able to DNA test and have the results officially recorded, I need either a microchip or tattoo. My breed does not have tattoos. Does anyone know any good vets around Tweed Heads where I can take these pups to be microchipped please as I believe NSW are still able to microchip at 6 weeks.

I think 10 in accordance with the cccq rules?? I briefly trained and instructed at SDOC when I lived at Wishart. The people are lovely and the instructors were very good too. I was previously always a Northside person and I am back on the northside again now

Miss B. She has one of the major franchisees. The last time I was talking to her, that was the going rate for a BC sized dog. I do not know what others add to their service, but that is bath, ears cleaned, blow dryed and sprayed with a deoderant and a piece of biscuit. I think nails clipped are included. The blow dry is only a get rid of major water.. Not a full blow dry, although I think in winter she may spend more time drying them. Gee baths have gone up a fair bit since I bought mine (knew it would have). I bought mine straight from Conmurra when they were at salisbury in brisbane. I did order mine at the pet expo at the time, so dont know if there was a show special or not. If you buy second hand, check heaters and pumps. You don't know how well either have been looked after.

When I bought mine from Conmurra about 6 years ago it was $1100 and $200 for the trolley. Things would have changed by now.. but that gives you a starting figure to prepare yourself for. I did work out at the time, with washing three dogs every fortnight (then it cost me $35/fn) to wash the dogs.. It would take me 18 months to "pay the bath off" by not paying someone else to do it. I know the cost of bathing dogs through a mobile place has gone up.. I think a friend of mine charges about $29 for border collie sized dog through a major franchise business.

I have an older bitch who has gone onto hormone tablets. She was desexed when she was 12 months and is now 7 years. She had random incontinence and has gone onto a tablet (forget the name now). Started off as one tablet twice day then one tablet a week. Seems to have controlled the problem. I would also seek a second opinion from another vet if you are not happy with your original vet. Where in Qld are you. If you are in Brisbane, try the UNI at St Lucia or one of their out campus like Dayboro. I know before putting Jemma on hormone replacement, the vet did say that I may have had to fiddle the dose rate to get it right for the individual dog. She said some last up to 10 days, others need it more frequently. We seem to manage it effectively on one tablet a week

cav, I know with borders and other dogs, shaving only gets the coat to grow back thicker, coarser and more wiry. I will never recommend shaving unless for a medical reason or if I REALLY have to due to paralysis tick season and an extremely thick coat. I have not done it yet and hope never to have to. The same with cavs?

mpslv, Try over the next week or so, bathing her in warm water. You don't need soap. But the warm water will help bring the coat out as well. After I bath my dogs, I get hair all over the place. particularly when they are doing their normal malting of coat. I can bring buckets and buckets out for a couple of weeks. I have a pin brush that I mainly use. I do have one of the rip off versions of a MARS coat king. I tend though to only use that when I really need to. I have a slicker brush at home, but don't find it all that effective. I have found a good pin brush works much better

Baby Dragon, I lift the end of my bath after use towards the tank to drain most of the water out of the pump then let it drain. When I wash next time, I let the first bit of water go out onto the grass or somewhere as that can have a bit of a musty odour. Every second or third bath, I will normally refill the tank, put in some disinfectant into the tank and cycle that through the lines and bath. You do have to make sure that if you do get a heated one that the water always covers the element and you do not forget to turn it off before emptying the tank. It can cause the heater to burn out or damage the side of the tank. I am not too fussy with my washing and disinfecting I will have to admit. I wash my dogs approximately every two weeks. I don't wash other people's dogs as a general rule. I may do one occasionally. I have found that once friends/neighbours know you have a bath, they want you to bath their dog for free all the time and then kind of expect it.

Back when I used Cherokee (back in 91/92).. They had kennels based around Wynnum-Manly area. That was where my dobermann had his protection training and I went afterwards to be "trained" how to handle a dog with that training.. All their "training" was another 6 week BASIC obedience course. Thanks for the tips on Urban. I am pretty sure the puppy buyers only want to do basic training at least to start with. So I will file that name for future reference. With this litter, I think I will have softer temperament pups, so I certainly do not want them going to harsher training schools. I used Bonnies for many years and they are not one of the cheapest around either and still not. But I did find they were better than most of your public clubs at the time.

Could she be waiting for the tug to come out??

Seita, Do you finish on the same foot for a halt (sit) as you do for a drop? For example: (This is my footwork, others I know have it reversed the other way) Drop/Stand: I give my command when my Right foot is forward and finish when my left foot comes up. Sit: I bring my right foot up last, so basically hold on my left foot. I found Jemma was anticipating her moves until I changed the footwork. Away from the trial ring, can you get her to do a fast sit. Heaps of little quick succession sitting exercises with jackpot high rewards?? Maybe at home, go back to saying sit for a few times to reinforce the action??