Mystiqview

Ellz, What you can use is buy yourself a wooden toilet roll holder and put a nail in the top. At the time I could not find a cheap toilet roll holder, so used that. The base used to have a small stub where you put cotton on for a sewing machine. I just replaced that with the dowl. The toilet roll holder will have a nice round base. The square one I have cuts into your legs if you are wearing shorts. I have even used a toe at times. The bed post, or any other thing I can tie the top to. That is why I use a bulldog clip with a piece of thong in the top to tie the top. I have a small loop at one end that I hook over the nail. (see the top picture of my previous post) If you start to use a core in your round plait. I sit on it to keep it a good tension then plait the strands around it. The master plaiter who taught me, used to have a nail on his workbench. A vice for his flat plaits so the tension remains the same and it does not get skewed. EVEN tension is VERY important when you do a flat, the lines should be level with each other. He was the one who said to use dressing rather than soap. So it is interesting to see what others use. He even taught me to cut and bevel my own thong from a hide. That looks good for a first attempt. When you get your kangaroo thong, play around with how your colours go. You can create some interesting patterns happening. When you splice it back in, just make sure you keep the right colour going back into itself. To splice it back, you will need to buy an Awl to splice your ends back in:

Ellz, Which braid are you trying to do? Round or flat? Do a four round or a four flat to start with. Easiest to do. Once you get the idea then move over to 6 or more. Ok. This is what I plait on. Its a piece of dowel on a base with a nail in the top and the head filed to a point. When not in use, I keep a cork over the top to prevent stabs. I use this as it is portable, and I can use it while in the arm chair watching TV, camping chair or anywhere else.

Temperament is the same as health and conformation. No doubt about it. 99% of pups go to pet homes. The last thing you want to be known for is breeding dogs with bad temperaments or a dog you bred has made the news as it has attacked someone. I think some is genetic and much is environmental.

Darkrai: Difference is looking at your info there.. Is you are in NSW.. We are talking about the Qld legislation that came in July last year. Before this legislation, breeders did NOT have to microchip puppies.

To many a common passer by.. "VCA Registrated" means as much as "Registered" breeder. There are many out there who are new to the dogs and do not know about this forum, that do not know what "Registered" means. If you say "registered pedigree" then it lights a small light bulb in some. But then even this is being muddied by some who own pedigree animals and breed from them in BYB situations. The dogs themselves are "Registered Pedigree" but the person is not. I tihnk the base criteria are largely the same from state to state about being a registered breeder and what you have to do. The internal forms and procedures differ slightly. IE: Qld's able to register pups straight into the new owner's names, whereas other states it is registered to the breeder and then transfered. But to be a member of your state CC body is membership by affiliation to the ANKC. (You will probably find a portion of your yearly memeberhip is actually affiliation fees to the ANKC)

I have started mine on Advance rehydrate mixed with milk replacer to make a sloppy porridge. It gradually thickens up until the kibble goes to moist to dry. I may add mince or something with the porridge in the early days. Or shove gobs of mince down their throats when fist starting them on solid food. I have only once had problem with sloppy stools. That was because the bitch was on puppy as well and her milk may have been too rich. I swapped her back to normal adult and let her eat what she wanted (I do not have hoovers, so was ok to do so) and the stools on the pups picked up. You find once you start worming too, they can be sloppy for a couple of days.

There have been a number of other threads about the microchipping laws in Qld. Here is a link to the Legislation and Information: LINK Direct your vet to this.

Yarracoly: It became compulsory 1 July 2009 to microchip puppies. When the law first came in, you could not microchip puppies before 8 weeks of age. Now you can microchip puppies earlier with an amendment to legislation coming into effect end November/beginning December 2009.

Bisart: If you take in a catalogue or print a catalogue (from their online catelogues) from an another camping store such as say Tentworld. Many camping stores will match the price. I know Anaconda say if you can find the same product elsewhere cheaper, they will match plus take off a further 10%

I do remember reading that the SE corner became compulsary 1/7/2009. With other regional councils to follow within a certain timeframe. So it is possible that Roma MAY fall into the "following into line". You may find the information on this link. LINK There was talk with the CCCQ about not being able to register litters unless MC number was supplied. It did appear in one of the dogworld mags last year, then they rescinded it. I remember when I did my own litter last year, they said because it was not in force Qld wide, they were not forcing the issue and saying it was a local council issue, not a CCCQ one. (COP OUT??) It may come back in once it is in force Qld wide (end 2010??). But IMO then they are just as likely to continue to say it is a local council issue and not enforce it too.

SBT: I think for newbies especially. They NEED to start at the basics. The stupid open book exam the ANKC makes newbies do for their prefix is token effort joke. I agree it is probably better than nothing at all. But a lot more reading and studying needs to be done before you consider mating to individuals (presume here all the other general is the dog suitable stuff has been addressed). New breeders need to know a very good understanding of to expect and when to expect it once a mating has taken place. Of course, there is no substitute for experience and the backing of a mentor and long time breeder as well. But at some point, the newbie breeder needs to take the initiative and learn and think all possible sides for themselves. Something I have seen over the years here on DOL. New breeders who have not done their research and come on here and go HELP in a mad panic.

No-one said that. They repeatedly said that most breeders do a very good job. However there was one comment about breeders who breed only for wins in the showring and have taken their eye off the ball (or even don't care) as to how good their dogs are as 'pets'. The jist was (and correct me if I'm wrong those who took notes), if you are that sort of breeder then don't sell to pet homes and cull. I can agree with this in part. Especially if cosmetic surgery is taking place to make the dog "CORRECT" for the ring. They need to look at their breeding practices and the dogs they are using. If cosmetic surgery is needed to produce a structurally sound dog, then they need to either stop or get better dogs to address the issue of the problem, not continue breeding with it and producing more of it.

Which is the code of ethics suggested by Kate. While she was probably the most controversial speaker of the day, one of her main points is that breeders should have a lifetime responsibility of the dogs they breed and ensure the owner is educated about the breed (or cross). In the question time at the end, when queried about pet shops selling pups, she went on to say that as pet shops where the ones making the profit, then the pet shops should take on the 'responsibility' of this lifetime guarantee. Good grief. Is she really that ignorant? I have come into this discussion only today, so may be a bit late here. I agree breeders need to be responsible to the dogs they breed. But where do you draw the term "Lifetime". If the owner lies to the breeder and there is only so much you can do to screen buyers.. It can happen to the best of people. PEOPLE LIE!! You think you have done what you can, told them the good, the bad and the very ugly about the breed. Done all the relevant health tests necessary and think you have sold a puppy to a wonderful home where it will be loved and adored. They mistreat that puppy in what ever fashion possible. IE: Abuse it, don't look after it, abandon it, breed with it every season without giving the puppy a chance to recover from the last litter. Whose responsibility is it then?? The breeder for not screening enough? or the people who have done the wrong thing? Scenario two: You have done all the health tests. And things should be clear and good. Some obscure condition comes up that no one would have known it would happen. Whose responsibility is it then? There has to be a balance where RESPONSIBLY is taken by the people needing to take responsibility for the animal. I know it is a fine line between breeder and owner. But there are many aspects a breeder does not have control over, once the dog leaves their care.

I do not have one them. But they sound quite good. I got a crate from Pet Homes not so long ago. Think it was about $100. It's crap. The bars are really thin and not that sturdy. I think its length is 109cm long. So reasonably large. I bought one the same size from another company and its much better and sturdier. A little heavier, but when you have a crate that size, you don't want it to wobble and move around.

Here are a few I have: "Dog Breeding For Professionals" Dr. Herbert Richards. 1978. TFH Publications Inc. ISBN 0-87666-659-4 "Practical Dog Breeding and Genetics" Eleanor Frankling. 5th Edit. 1975. Anchor Press. ISBN 0-09-120460-7 "Dog Breeding, The Theory & The Practice". Frank Jackson. 2003. The Crowood Press. ISBN: 1-86126-328-7 "The Joy of Breeding Your Own Show Dog". Ann Seranne & Julie Gasgow. 1st Edit. 1980 Howell Book House. ISBN: 0-87605-413-0 "The Whelping and Rearing of Puppies: A complete and Practical Guide". Muriel P Lee. TFH Publications. ISBN: 0-7938-0497-3 "All About Mating, Whelping and Weaning". David Cavill. 1981. Pelham Books. ISBN: 0 7207 1323 4 "Breeding Better Dogs" Carmelo L Battaglia. PHD. 5th Edit. 1986 ISBN: 0-9324419-06-02 Other: "Genetics: An Introduction for Dog Breeders" Jackie Isabell. 2002. ISBN: 1-57779-041-3 "Canine Hip Dysplacia and other Orthopedic Problems" Fred L Lanting. 1981. ISBN: 0-931866-06-5 "The Dog Owners Manual on Selecting, Raising and Breeding Dogs" Karen Hedberg. 1989 The watermark Press. ISBN: 0-949284-14-9 ( I have the first edit. There is a newer edition) "An Eye for a Dog: Illustrated Guide to Judging Purebred Dogs". Robert W Cole. 2004. Dogwise Publishing. ISBN: 1-929242-14-X Some of those books as you can see are a little old. I think though, they still offer some good information to the newer books out there. I have also included some other books that are a good read for when you are looking at dogs and understanding conformation, structure and structural problems such as HD, OCD and ED. "An Eye for a Dog" is about structure, movement etc and a good reference book on this. It is not breed specific, but reading the other breed structures is also a good understanding of the lingo used around the show ring.

I just clicked on the link this morning, and came up with a "problem loading page" error.. Maybe not so good yet.

I have the Oztrail. I used to have a delux, but too big and heavy for me to handle these days. It also did not fit in the back of the ute when I put the rear cage door on. I have two compacts now. Small, light and fit in the trailer. I do not know your other brand. Shop around for your gazebo & Side walls. I know Tentworld (think they are australia wide) sold them cheaper than BCF and Anaconda. But I grabbed their catelogue and took into my local Anaconda store (normally the dearest) and they beat the price plus 10%.

C-crates do take ages to make their stuff. I ordered a show trolley from them and it is basically you order and pay and they make. Mine took weeks too.. And I live in Brisbane!!!

Dont laugh...!!!! I have two clam shells that are filled every day. I have two water buckets. One large stainless steel one and one small horse feed bin clipped over the fence.. When Brandy empties the clam shells, she starts on the water buckets. At my old place I used to have small automatic water troughs permanently connected to a tap... I can just imagine if I have that set up here...

Whippets.. It is not a show lead. Its a general purpose one that has seen some rough abuse over the years. A thicker one that was one strip of leather cut into four, folded over the snap and then plaited down. It is a good feeling though when you do your own. Then if you need a new one, sit infront of the TV and plait away. Unfortunately even at $50-$60 each. There is not a lot of money in making them for others. materials cost about $30 (snap, cord, 4 leather strands 2m long at $1.50-$2/metre) then the time..Its takes me about an hour to hour and a half to finish off a lead from start to finish.

I use gloves as the metallic smell of the birthing fluid stays on your hands for AGES!!! Have you got a spot to sleep with all that gear there?? I use cotton nappies rather than towels to dry off my pups. They are smaller, white and easier to handle and then dump in a bucket of nappysan after each puppy. ETA: I use clamps if I need to clamp the umbilical cord. I will think of the correct ones later I am sure.

OMG. I know of one breeder who DELIBERATELY listed another dam as the maternal mother to a litter as the actual mother was a co-own and the breeder had a falling out with the co-owner. No problem if they were just sold as purebred pets. Unfortunately they were ALL registered with the incorrent dam as the mother. It really makes you mad when these things happen.

Closest for me is probably about 20 minutes. Durack is about 45. I will draw the line at about 4 hours.

I know some plaiters who use soap and others who use leather dressing. I prefer the dressing, as it coats AND treats the leather. Especially when you consider it has a high chance of getting wet. For show leads, I recommend my buyers to only use it for the ring. Use something else for normal use (unless it is black of course). I find if you only lightly coat it, it does not darken as you plait. Well maybe a little, but so does the soap. Think of it about putting gloss on something. Leads will darken with age. There is little you can do to stop this. The oils in your skin, the dogs coat and dirt/grime all act over time to darken the leather. I have leads plaited in a nice purple colour, now black through age and use. One lead I have was a nice light brown. It is my every day lead and now it is black. Mind you I have had this lead now for 15 years.

Ellz, That is what I like about the Ron Edwards books. They are not expensive. They give you the basics with good diagrams in them. There are better and more detailed books out there, but to get started, they are good inexpensive way to start. The main issue I have seen with many plaited leads is tension. Many are plaited too loose. Leather stretches, and if you plait loose to start with, they stretch and then can look tacky. The other thing to consider, is if you start with the 3mm width thong is it loves to twist on itself so the back rough edge comes around to show ontop. I recommend learning with the 4.7mm width. The 5.6mm is a bit wide. Get yourself some leather dressing as well and rub that onto the strands (you do not need much) as you plait rather than plait "dry". I use the Equinade one as it is a nice waxy consistancy and assists with a tight plait. Dubbin works well too but gram per gram is dearer than the Equinade. If you need more body, get yourself 3mm venetian blind cord from a hardware store and use that as a core. I flat plait my handles rather than do the round all the way around. It is softer on the hands. You will also need an awl to splice the leather thongs back into itself. I also add glue when I splice to prevent it from unravelling as it bends with use. ETA: