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Just watch. Some of those chicken stocks contain onion. (and heaps of salt). A half a teaspoon of vegemite dissolved in water. Vegemite is also high in salt, so you will need to watch how much you give. A dessert spoon of gravy style tinned food, mixed through the kibble. (I don't normally subscribe to tinned food, but will resort to it, if they are not eating) Try soaking the kibble in water to soften it a bit. Then mix lactose free/goats milk or something through it. Ideally though, you really want them to eat the dry food if that is what you are feeding. By doing anything like has been suggested, you can only further make the problem worse and create a bad fussy eater. A dog will not starve themselves. One method they say to try is (Based on one cup of food - if you feed more follow same principle) Do not wash bowls for this exercise!! Day one: One cup of food If dog does not eat. Take up food. Do not wash bowl. Day Two: 1/2 Cup of food If dog does not eat. Take up food Day Three: 1/4 cup of food If dog does not eat. Take up food. Day four: Empty bowl. Idea behind this: Hopefully dog thinks another has eaten the food. The trick is, to not feel sorry for the dog and treat it with other things. Also look at brand/kibble size. I have one bitch here who does not like the large kibble of normal adult. (I feed Advance). So for her, she gets small breed Advance. Because I give her small kibble, I need to increase the chew things to clean teeth.

Controlled walking on lead will not harm him. UNCONTROLLED play, twisting etc. Can harm the stitches. He may be a little stiff and sore. I would still walk him, but let him be a partial judge in how much he can do.

I think no matter the dog or the breed. They all should behave. There should be minimum "standard" should I say apply to all dogs. I call them house manners. For dogs that live at home: * Don't jump on strangers/family when they come to the door (I only say this as I am thinking of my grandmother here). I like dogs to be "invited" up to say hello. Not run, run run JUMP!!!! * Control barking - Everyone hates constant barking dogs (especially at night when you are trying to sleep) * Basic, sit/drop, stay, come - Just HANDY.. * BE SOCIAL - no aggresion: While I there are always going to be reasons for certain aggression (dog being attacked, timid etc) it should be worked on. If it cannot be controlled when you have someone over - remove the problem: Restrict the dog while you have visitors. I say this to PREVENT incidents from occurring. It is also common sense if Auty Terese is coming over with her kids and and you know your dog does not like children. If you take your dog out in public, then I think the level of behaviour should increase according to where and what is being done with them. For dogs that go to dog parks. PICK UP AFTER YOUR DOG.. Other than that. The one that really peeves me is those owners who take a book and sit somewhere while their dog goes and bullies every other dog in the bark and doesnt do anything. IF the dog is not social enough to go to a dog park, don't take it there when everyone else is there.. Work on the issue then maybe later take it to the dog park. My other pet hate is when you are out walking your own dogs and someone is coming the other way and they just let their dog/s come up and get in your dogs face/s without even asking if its ok to do so.. It's just rude. Sometimes when I am walking, I am training my dog.. Not only that, how would you like like it if I came up and hugged your child without asking. You would probably tell me off, right? To me, it is the same thing with dogs. I don't mind my dogs saying hello, but please be courteous and ASK! I think the biggest problem is generally speaking, people with small dogs FORGET to socialise their puppies. They are small, they are fragile, they don't NEED to be walked like bigger dogs, therefore they aren't. They don't learn social graces. Larger dogs get walked, so therefore need to be perceived as "more social" than their smaller counterparts. People think only large dogs bite. They are out there in public in the public face. Small dogs tend to be locked into their house/yard and you know the saying "out of sight, out of mind". My sister-in-law has a mini dachy pup. That dog does NOT know what the floor is. Right from a small age, the dog has lived on their shoulder. It did basic puppy class when it was about 12 weeks old. But only socialised with other small dogs for fear "it could get hurt". Yes, it is a consideration, but controlled supervised socialisation with suitable larger dogs will work. Now at 6 months of age, it still lives on the shoulder. It does not know what floor is when we go to the mother-in-laws place. I recently took two of my calm guys (yeah.. lounge lizzard bcs). And the dog had a hysteric. For the brief 2 seconds it was on the floor, it fled into my sister-in-law's bedroom. My guys however, were lying on the floor, not even paying the dachy any attention. After that, it was back to the shoulder... Another thing. Some breeders do not adequately socialise their pups. Parvo and Kennel Cough are serious concerns. However when more dogs are dumped and put to sleep due to temperament/socialisation issues than those two viruses kill, is also a concern. Done correctly. Puppy socialisation at the breeder's is VERY important.

Looking at the posts there Naomi. your list is very contradictory. I have owned a sibe in the past. They ARE a lot of work. I had a fully obedience trained one who I competed in obedience trials with. The training is constant. It is not a breed that you can slacken off on training. I know a few with labs who are quiet, and others who are nutters, even at 5 years of age. Unfortunately I think some see them as guide dogs therefore they are great with kids etc and pretty docile. NOT ALL labs are like that. I used to own dobes before getting into the border collies. One was protection trained. They are an intelligent breed. They should be even temperamented and not high strung. Energetic yes, but there is a difference between energetic and high strung. Some I see these days are just plain loopy. Not necessarily aggressive, but loopy. They are loyal and friendly dogs and will love to crawl into your lap if you let them. Temperament is the most important in your case, no matter WHAT breed you go for. Talk to your breeders. Ask them the best, the good, the bad and the UGLY of the breed. If the breeder says there is no UGLY and the breed is "perfect".. talk to another breeder. Each breed has their quirks. If you think you cannot deal with the potential ugly quirks IE; that you cannot live with (that could be drooling newfies, escape artists sibes are known for, scent of beagles, energetic boofy labs), then maybe look to a breed that best matches your lifestyle. Each breed are going to have good and bad traits that suit or not suit various people. I breed borders and while I am not necessarily suggesting border collies, I can give you two examples from one litter. Myf who a friend owns, is a high drive VERY energetic dog. Her brother Blue is a lounge lizzard like his mother. You cannot get a more laid back dog. Another litter sister works sheep and is super high drive. Within every litter, you will have higher drive dogs than others. Just like in humans. It is important to talk to your prospective breeders about your lifestyle, interests, what you plan to do with the dog etc. Some breeders will say "here is your puppy". You need to be honest with the breeder (and hopefully they will be honest back) and try and match a puppy to suit you. Hopefully the breeder will also say "this breed is not suitable for your lifestyle". Please listen to this kind of advice. Just because you had a kelpie cross in the past who was a mad hatter, does not necessarily mean the next one will be. Again, I am not suggesting you go out and get another kelpie. Some breeders breed for performance. If you are not into that stuff, then you need to cross them off your shortlist. Some breeders breed for show and others do the right thing and breed damn nice pets with damn nice temperaments and who do the right thing by their chosen breed. If you can get to a dog show, I would. Look and talk to breeders. Just because you work full time, does not mean you not going to be responsible. It is quality time, not quantity. Many of us work full time and have other activities outside our dogs. Yet many of our dogs still manage to live fulfilling lives. Dogs are social creatures. Walking around your neighbourhood while good, is not necessarily enough socialisation. While there are always going to be idiots at dog parks and in our society. Some sort of social activity with your pet is good to keep their social skills in peak performance. A dog that is not socialised with other dogs, lose their social skills. I go to a dog park. Not every day and not all the time to the same one. But they do get out. There are some idiots out there, but you learn to avoid and manage them.

I keep an eye on swelling. I will put the tip of a cotton bud just inside the vulva preferably before their first pee in the morning when I suspect they may start. The first day I see colour is day one.. I then count FOUR weeks (not three).. To be sure to be sure.. I have had matings take on day 21... so its now four weeks for my girls

sssssh.. Don't let the secret out of the bag :D Michelle will be picking up her punishment (oops payment) this afternoon though..... LOL..... She is not nicked name "terror bear" for nothing. I will give her two days. :p

Not Samford Kennels perchance? Despite so called awards. I would not leave my dogs there if you paid me a million dollars.

Excess white. For Example: Half white face, body white (other than collar), White up and inside the stifles are examples of white factoring. ETA: Of the photos you published: The body splash white on the second pup, on the third pup, it looks like to have a white leg or substantial white on one stifle. Big white collars and a lot of white on the heads of one other.

There was definately colour on the picture of that pup. Faint at this stage, but could definately see a pale red like colour in the coat, typical of a pale red at birth. Not discouting sable with those same lines either Looks like to have a substantial white collar, so white factoring not discounted either.

Who knows sometimes what those old dogs are too. You are right re ISDS/ABCA lines. Red = Chocolate in many cases. However there is enough red behind/within the Borderfame/Minimbah stuff in that pedigree for it to carry through to this pup from the dam's side. Will be interesting to see what is hiding behind the sire's side.

Yep. Been there. My girl last year delivered 11 puppies. One died in the nest, leaving 10. There were some small ones, so they needed supplimenting twice-three times a day. One boy I had to PTS at a week old. Puppy poop and pee by 9... plus three adults (including the mother). I had one week off to do the litter, then back to work. I remember asking myself "WHY did I put her in whelp". But watching 9 puppies terrorise the back yard when I got home from work, was worth it. Stressful, but stress relief at the same time. I was happy at 8 weeks when all bar one puppy left. (I could put my feet up) But still had the all night crying, puppy pee/poop in the house.. But he is cute and goofy.

I know the kennel USED to take whole animals. I had a look at their website and called them. They now no longer take undesexed animals over 6 months of age. Their reason: "The bitches have always caused trouble and all the males do is want to hump them" So it seems others maybe right. The kennels really want to double up the runs with multiple dogs. Maybe I am getting too cynical with initial response to the email. I was however, polite in my email back to them. They were not "grilled" as someone put it. I said I found it strange that the kennel had said that, as I had known others previously boarding entire animals there. (The kennel while known to me, would not be my first choice in kennel in the first place, despite their awards) My exact words were regarding the whole animal, "If you do not intend to breed, I would strongly suggest you desex her". It is something any ethical breeder would tell someone with a whole animal. I listed my reasons for not able to board the dog: Lack of Licence *I don't want my arse sued if something goes wrong*, my own dog numbers and facilities *I am set up to board dogs in this manner* , and I was not able/prepared to juggle a potential bitch in season when I have three of my own. I also suggested they look at other boarding kennels/professional pet minding services. Note: words contained within ** were not submitted in response back to person. The email has come a day after another two stud enquires for a dog clearly listed on my web site as "Not available", so hence maybe too cynical.

I would be lying if I said there were times when I have gone "OMG what have I done!". Especially after being kept awake all night from puppy crying after pulling a 12 hour day at work. I have had bad pee'ers inside and have good pups. Pups that chew something they shouldn't. Even ones I have bred and kept myself. At times I ask my self "WHY??" but for some unknown reason, you keep going on. But then they would do something cute and funny and it would all be forgiven. Much prefer fur kids to two legged anyday. You don't get in trouble for locking a fur kid in a small confined space (aka Crate) as you would with a child. {joke}

To me, If Big W and the like, sell the premium food etc. Then it is targeting the market that shop there. All the good if it works. It is really no different to the larger Pet Barn places sellling the premium food and vet products like Advantage, Sentinal etc. Not all the staff in those places are trained either to those products. Prescription products would still need to be sold through a vet or somewhere where a vet is on duty. By belief is the likes of Sentinal etc is not a prescription product and can be sold anywhere. Likewise with "Normal" premium food. No different to other companies having smaller "premium" dog food available in supermarkets to target those shoppers.

I had told her I know of people who DO board their bitches in season in kennels as they do not have the facilities to safely lock them away during season. That is the part I find odd. I know Christmas period is a VERY VERY busy time. My dog is not available at stud (for one he's only 9 months old at present) and while he is currently being shown, I want him to mature first before considering whether he is suitable for stud duties. I have had a number of enquiries on him already because he's red/white and possibly carries sable. But he's just not available. ETA: Spelling

Excellent Now we know where it's come from Thank you. If you can find out the sire's ped name (I can probably fill in the blanks in the pedigree from my end).. I can see what Breedmate says where the red on his side comes from.

I got an email last night through my web site. The person claimed a boarding kennel here in Brisbane refused to take their current 10 month old border collie bitch over the Christmas break later this year because she was "not desexed". Here is the email: I told them strange the boarding kennel would say such a thing. I could not take the dog as I am not licenced to do so I have four of my own dogs (three of which are female) Do not want the responsibility of their female being in season and having to lock her away If they do not intend to breed, to get the dog desexed. Advised them to contact licensed pet minding facilities (and gave an example or two) To come onto DOL and either ask for good boarding kennels in and around Brisbane. My first thought.. She maybe wants an accident to happen with her bitch of the puppy kind? Am I wrong to think this? Think I am getting too cynical... a current 10 month old bitch.. nothing stopping her getting it desexed between now and Christmas... WHY????

If your dog is always fed that, then it is possible no matter what dry kibble you start off with, it can upset the stomach. There are brands/types that are supposed to do those with sensitive stomachs. I would try a chicken/turkey base kibble over a beef one. Mix a very small amount in first and gradually increase the amount of kibble depending on how your dog copes with it. Even when changing brands, you are supposed to mix a little of the new in with the old and gradually increase the new while decreasing the old to assist in alleviating stomach upsets.

There is red in that Dam's Pedigree.

I did not say they were easy. Thankfully we only have one room with carpet. The rest is polished floor. Upright vacuums are not bad. although I have seen vacuum cleaners with the roller basher attachment as an optional accessory

Here is a good article on the genetics of blue eyes Genetics of Blue Eyes basicly: There is either a merle in the background somewhere. Blue eye is also linked to white & pigment especially around the face.

I feed Advance. One girl I have here does not like the large kibble, so she gets small breed. The others are on just normal adult. There is also Turkey/Rice as well as Chicken. For picky eaters, a half teaspoon of vegemite mixed with water and pour over the kibble. I have also used gravy style tinned food, about a dessert spoon mixed through the kibble. I personally do not like tinned food, but have resorted to it when I have had really finicky eaters.

I know of a colour hiding up to 7 generations back in a pedigree. It will be interesting to see this little guy grow. With the excess white, I would suggest to your brother if he is able, BAER hearing test the puppies.

The bitch has a uterus. that is the only license or requirement for some people. *swares heartily*

Short of a vacuum cleaner with those rotating banging things. I have those rubber brooms you often see in hairdressers. Works a treat to get the hair of carpets and mats. Of course it will depend on how much carpet you have too.