Mystiqview

I would also talk to the breeder of your girl. They should know what the mum and grandmum did. When they stood, what was their cycle (Eg every 6 months, every 9 months) etc. It is good to know this information. It's not a bible but gives you a rough estimation on what may follow with the daughter. Ditto what others have said. I have had bitches stand as early as day 5 and as late as day 21. General rule of thumb for standing is between 12-16 days. mark on the calendar the first day you noticed "blood", and then mark day 21. Around 12 days, scratch/tickle the base of her tail and around on her rump area. If the tail flicks sideways, it is a reasonable indicator that she is almost or is ready to stand. ETA: I lock my girls up for 28 days. For me, that seems to be ok. but like someone else has said, they know of bitches standing as late as 27 days, While she may not be ready/willing to stand, nothing stopping an experienced stud dog getting to her, so keeping her locked up is a good idea.

Lilli, I think Dancinbcs have probably summed up where I am coming from re "profiteering". We do have a popular breed and prices across the board are fairly standard. There are those in our breed who will charge more for a colour, not because it is is better, but just because they can get a higher price for a merle, chocolate or other "rare" colour as they advertise. In this case, it is profiteering. My opinions are based upon my own breed and not the situations around rare breeds. If you do have to import from OS then of course those costs should and need to be factored in. Again as Dancinbcs has pointed out in our breed. There is a ready supply of puppies from show or performance homes. The bloodlines are fairly similar in some way or another. As she said, they all pretty go back to a few main bloodlines anyway depending on which "style" suits "you" better. There are those in my breed who charge more for male/female, even if they are both limit register. Likewise for two pups on main reg. I have no problems paying for quality. It is the trend in my breed of charging stupidly high prices just for a fad that gets me. Wazzat: nothing directed at you personally. I think I was just addressing something you commented on. Giving another look from a common breed perspective. Sorry if my comments were taken the wrong way. Not intended to you or Lilli.

That's what I don't like about limited registration which is essentially equivilent to a unpapered dog. When I first began purchasing purebreed dogs in the early 80's you had the choice of papered or unpapered...........there was no big deal other than unpapered was always cheaper. Some people would go unpapered and save some money, some would go papered to have the papers, and not all papered purchases were shown or bred. Sorry but rubbish. Limited register is nothing like having an unpapered dog. An unpapered dog is one you can't prove it's pedigree or the fact it's even a purebred. Limited Register is exactly the same as Main Register, just with showing and breeding restrictions. Simple. I agree. what a load of crock!! Limit Register is papered. Just not to show or breed. It still has the breeder's name on the papers. IF something goes wrong with the animal, it is still the breeder's reputation. Unpapered, there is not proof that the dog you have is from xyz. Limit Register is still pedigree. As someone in gundogs have said a dog needs to be pedigree to compete. Likewise with many other sports. You have associate register for those mutts. But to compete as a pedigree, you have papers. Some of these sports dogs are not second rate at all. In many ways a successful sport dog is better than a dog with a CH. Points and titles are REALLY awarded on merit, not turning up to an outback show somewhere and getting an auto 6 point. Do that a few time and you have a CH. Qld at last count, still only let ppl have only maximum 2 non papered dogs before a person had to go get a pedigree to compete in obedience etc. Both dogs had to be registered together. So you could not go rescue a pound dog today, register it on AR then in a months time get another and register it on AR. Other states have had much better rules with relation to AR dogs.

Bindi Boo. Those things happen. I know of a couple BC breeders who claim all dogs are health tested when in fact they are not. I have a letter on the kennel's letterhead stating all dogs are clear for the genetic diseases via parent. However I know for a FACT that one dog is a carrier of one of the genetic diseases. There have been cases of breeders forging or altering test results. There have been cases of breeders saying dogs are from X and Y when in fact they are not from the dogs listed on the pedigree. The true parents were known to the breeder and they knowingly registered the litter incorrectly. I know of cases where a person will send a bitch to a dog for a stud. Thinking they are getting the dog they paid for, the breeder has mated it to a son or another dog in the yard and still charged and told the bitch owner X dog sired the litter as per arrangement.

That is a nightmare. This kind of thing happens to the best of breeders. A pup goes to a home on certain conditions and one party fails to acknowledge the conditions they agreed to. Not just breeder to pet home, but breeder to breeder as well. A few friendships have been broken through breach of trust etc.

I have seen puppies advertised on a free website by registered breeders. Advertised as from pedigree parents but without papers. I know who the kennel is as the litter was also on their website. I think the rule has changed Australia wide now. Pups must come with papers. How that is done still varies from state to state. As previously mentioned, Qld, you are able to register pups straight into the new owner's name if it is known, otherwise it is registered in the breeder's name and a transfer done when the pup is sold. Anyone who wants to charge huge extra $$ for papers should IMO be reported to the CCC in that state. I can understand a difference in price between main and limit registration if the pup in question is of the quality. But to charge hundreds of $ extra for papers, is wrong and ripping people off.

BB. They are only ripping the buyers off if the buyer wants a Main Register puppy to show or breed. If they do not want that, then it is irrelevant. If the pup is going to sit in a back yard somewhere, it does not matter what register it is on. Being on Main Registration is not going to change the fact the dog is sitting in the back yard. The person who went to the breeder is hoping by going to an ethical and registered breeder they are getting a puppy with some sort of health guarantee and a pedigree to say it is all one breed and not some cross bred with dubious history. If a person comes to me and asks for a Main Register puppy, if their reasons are sound, they plan to do the right thing by the breed and there is a puppy available, it will be considered. Otherwise they can go elsewhere. If a person only wants a pet and not show, then Limit Registration is all that is needed. If the dog is not going to be shown or bred, then why put it on main registration. It serves no point??

What is GOOD... REALLY?? Your definition of good and the next person's of good can be vastly different. How many times have any of us heard that ringside. XYZ dog is this or that. ABC person has done this or that to their dog? Limit Registration has it's place in breeding. As I said before, to compete in sports, dogs need to have pedigree papers. A dog with a blue eye, or an incorrect coat colour or other things that do not qualify them for breeding/showing does not make a dog faulty. There are enough show dogs out there like many non show dogs who have CH titles or higher, are bred with, who have had to have operations to correct, mouth, OCD, HD, cruciates and any other structural issues. Meanwhile the "pet" within the litter is perfect in health. It may have had something not quite up to scratch as the breeder's pick or the breeder could not find a show home for it. Which dog is NOW faulty?

Our BC boy died from poisoning from the annual heartworm injection. He was a rescue, and we hadn't been told anything about risks involved with certain vaccines. We simply trusted our vet (we didn't know we had any reason not to) when they offered the injection, and after a full year of on-and-off illness, with us having no idea what was going on, he passed 6 weeks after the second injection from a massive haemorrhage (sp). So, there is validity in vaccination conditions I think. I think going so far as to say you cannot vaccinate your dog ever is going too far, but making a point of educating new puppy buyers (and warning against) certain vaccines and medications can in the end save the dog's life. I wish we'd had the knowledge. add: I think some of those conditions are rather ridiculous and would ward off many a pet puppy buyer. I advise my puppy buyers to steer clear of the yearly heartworm injection. I tell them it is ultimately their choice, however as the injection is an *mectin product, some collies may be sensitive to it. I know of BC people who use it without issue. I know of breeders who use it without issue. The company who makes the product of course claim it is safe to use on collies. And people who may have been using the monthly form of it, will not think twice about going to the yearly form for convenience. I prefer the monthly heartworm. For one, if there is going to be a reaction to it, it is a month base and not a year base if you needed to try to counteract it. It is important to note, the heartworm injection is different to the vaccinations. And like ANY medication, reactions can be individual. I'm concerned now. Neither our breeder or our vet mentioned anything about bcs being sensitive to heartworming. we dont use the injection, so is it only this that causes problems? or is it things like tablets and advocate also? Ivemectin is in a number of worming medications (Heartguard for example). Proheart for example is made from Moxidectin. Info Link) Basically. read the label

Re Limit Register. There seems to be some confusion as to its purpose. I agree NOT all dogs are worthy to be bred from. However it does not mean they are "Faulty" or "second rate". I have seen some darn pretty good pet puppies who may have a wrong coat colour in my breed a blue eye or some other minor issue that means you cannot show it. It does not necessarily mean its structure or other qualities are a fault. I would rather have a a cosmetic fault come up such as colour, than a structural fault any day. I have seen some Limit Register dogs who should me on Main and shown and some Main Register dogs being shown who should be on Limit. Limit Register to my belief is there for those dogs who should not be bred. In Qld in particular until the last few years, only pedigree could compete in dog sports. All those mutts could not compete. We have come into line and allowed those mutts, however there are still restrictions on how many a person is allowed and when they can be registered with the CCC. Limit was an option for those dogs that should not be bred, but are still pedigree. It allowed here at least, those dogs to compete in the dog sports as a pedigree animal and be recognised for its pedigree. If a sports person or a pet person is not going to show/breed, and they are going to desex the pup anyway. Then WHY must it be on main register? What is the point? Many pet owners don't know the first thing about the registers and don't care. Those who are going to breed will breed unless the dog goes out desexed (another debate all together). Simple. They will not care if the dog is on main or limit registration. All they will say to their puppy buyers is it is pedigree.

Our BC boy died from poisoning from the annual heartworm injection. He was a rescue, and we hadn't been told anything about risks involved with certain vaccines. We simply trusted our vet (we didn't know we had any reason not to) when they offered the injection, and after a full year of on-and-off illness, with us having no idea what was going on, he passed 6 weeks after the second injection from a massive haemorrhage (sp). So, there is validity in vaccination conditions I think. I think going so far as to say you cannot vaccinate your dog ever is going too far, but making a point of educating new puppy buyers (and warning against) certain vaccines and medications can in the end save the dog's life. I wish we'd had the knowledge. add: I think some of those conditions are rather ridiculous and would ward off many a pet puppy buyer. I advise my puppy buyers to steer clear of the yearly heartworm injection. I tell them it is ultimately their choice, however as the injection is an *mectin product, some collies may be sensitive to it. I know of BC people who use it without issue. I know of breeders who use it without issue. The company who makes the product of course claim it is safe to use on collies. And people who may have been using the monthly form of it, will not think twice about going to the yearly form for convenience. I prefer the monthly heartworm. For one, if there is going to be a reaction to it, it is a month base and not a year base if you needed to try to counteract it. It is important to note, the heartworm injection is different to the vaccinations. And like ANY medication, reactions can be individual.

Wazzat. There are certain people who I will not let the lines go to either. There are some I would not sell a pet rock to. Mainly acknowledgement/respect of breeder/stud dog requests. I just don't sell to those. I am not about to shit in my own nest either so to speak. I won't put ridiculous prices on the pups. They are just not available. I would rather give away a puppy to a loving home than sell it for thousands to a bad home. I charge same for co-own Main to limit register. I am still small time so 99% of my pups are pet anyway on Limit. Much as I prefer. I much prefer a loving pet home to some breeder homes where they are only in it to win it and it doesn't win then it is moved on or dumped in a back yard and only used as a uterus breeding factory. I am still trying to establish something to my eyes and the whole "worthwhile". Not everyone started with the creme de la creme. Some have to try and improve on what they started with. I don't proclaim my dogs are things they are not.

I normally cut my pigs ears in half and give half at a time.

pretty much a statement of good intentions. Things like Ivemectin (commonly found in heart worm meds) and collies are concerning as collies are sensitive to Ivemectin and it can kill. Not too bad with BCs, but still possible. High protein diets with Dalmatians are also known issues. Things like this should be observed by puppy buyers and a responsibility of breeders to inform puppy buyers of known issues within the chosen breed

It costs the same to raise a coloured puppy to a black/white puppy. It costs the same to raise a main registered pup and a limit registered pup It costs the same to raise a male pup and a female pup. Why charge more for any of the above? To me, it is only profiteering. If you feel comfortable doing it, then go for it. If your morals prevent you charging more for a fad, then you should stick to those.. How many so called registered ethical breeders condemn the colour breeders, those whose charge more for male/female or those who charge more for main/limit, only to do it themselves??

To be honest. I have always said to my puppy buyers photos and updates are always welcome. After about the first week or so, contact disappears. Everyone's life is so busy. whether it is because of time, or other reasons, even breeders do not get updates from their puppy buyers. If I do get an update, it is always replied to.

My vet kept calling Maddy a wheaten when she was a pup. Said she wouldn't be a red and would stay quite light! The breeder wasn't concerned and laughed at the word wheaten. It is rather amusing the number of ignorant Australian people (even breeders) who still call red/white bcs as wheaten, champagne, golden, caramel.

I am happy enough with emails in the early instance. Basic information, price, conditions, when next litter due etc. If a person is serious, then I would expect some sort of verbal conversation. Email is very impersonal. If a person is local, then I would like to meet them before making my decision on whether they would be suitable for a pup. They may have good intentions, but they may not be suitable for the breed or the temperament of the puppies available. EG: they are active and I only have shyer pups left or vice versa.

OMG. Some of those conditions are absurd! My conditions are rather simple: If bought as a pet (99% of mine are). They must be desexed prior to 12 months of age. They are sold on Limit Reg. Show quality: well normally people do not pay for a dog if I want it out there as a potential for a litter back. After litter - your dog. I prefer to sell to pet than show anyway. Proper health care must be undertaken. No different to what I do myself. If you have a vet, then use it. As for yearly vaccinations; There is much debate on the issue. If you attend a dog club, Then most will want yearly vaccinations. To what level/frequency you vaccinate (C4, C5 or higher) it is your choice. Groomer: Your choice. I will advise on what typical grooming the breed needs. Whether you do it yourself or pay someone. It's YOUR money! If there is something wrong (genetically): I would LIKE to know to I don't necessarily breed it again. If the dog had an injury/accident that is (your) fault, Would like to know and will offer support/guidance where appropriate. Diet: I will advise what pups were on here. I will offer suggestions, but at the end of the day - your choice what you feed. If you cannot keep the dog, I would like to be informed. If I can assist in rehoming etc, then will help where necessary. Will accept dogs back where possible.

Miss B look at getting scoops installed in the front of the canopy. As you drive air is pushed in found the whirlybirds in the back of canopies a pain in the butt and pretty worthless. I have sat under neath while some span the bird and the airdraw out is pretty crap. When you need them to work the most is when you are stopped in traffic. Uncortunately unless there is a gale forced wind blowing, the birds don't really spin. The draws are great. I leave most of my camping/show gear in the car. Throw trollies in. And away we go. Down side I found out yesterday was when you go to buy a clothesdryer. It won't fit. Had to get a friend to pick it up in his old Nissan pulsar. It had more room in the back with the seats folded down than I did in the lux.

Miss B. My hubby is a cabinet maker by trade. The drawers go 3/4 the way back into the tray. Up the very front there is a lift out section that eventually a duel battery will go in (no room under bonnet since putting a turbo in the lux). The drawer length also had a lot to do with the drawer runners. Heavy duty runners are not cheap. Nearly $400 for the two pairs. It has all been made out 16mm structural ply. The floor is just the ply screwed on the top of the drawer frame. He then stuck marine carpet on the top. It is sealed with Sikkens deck oil. It is not cheap stuff. But is really good. It is a decking oil but it dries hard and seals the timber. Technically it has been designed so I can still hose out the back of the ute, of if moisture does get in, will not warp the timber work. ETA: There were originally going to be lift up sections in the side there where you see the gaps on either side of the drawers. I have a back gate/grill that I had in the vehicle before installing these drawers. It needs to be cut down in order to now fit on top of the drawers.

I voted other. There are plenty of people who show their dogs. They keep their dogs in good health and are generally responsible for the animals in their care. Why should they desex their dogs? As for true pet people. You could ask why not desex? I know some who have whole dogs, and look after them responsibly.

Not really an option in there for ute/duel cab ute. I have a hilux. They are not really classified as a large SUV/4wd. Here is a photo of my set up. The drawers are courtesy of my hubby.

VERY VERY bad personal experience yes. The one and only time I had boarded two of my dogs. It was there, as they were literally only 5 minutes up the road to where I lived. It was not peak period. My dogs were there only three nights, while I went away for a long (work related) weekend. They came out with the worst case of diahorrea you could possibly imagine. I don't know what they were fed, but what ever it was. It was smelly and runny. Something they did not normally have and certainly did not go in with. They had fang marks on them from some other dog. A puncture wound in one ear and other fang puncture marks on their legs. I was not nothing about any scuffles or fights they were in. The person who led them out, you could see they were wary of them and could not wait to get away from them. They are normally friendly and will say hello to anyone. Once back into my possession, they were saying hello to others who came to collect their dogs. Another person who was there at the time even noticed the fang marks. They were desexed. In good health and friendly, not dominate or anything where you would suspect possible issues with play groups etc. I don't know what happened in that kennel during those days. But never again.

At 8 months.. They want to hump anything and everything. Damn annoying at times. They also want to pee on everything and OVER everyone else's pee. Easiest way to relieve.. and an eeeww factor here (hand relief) if it is too much, especially if there are bitches in season around. To breed blue puppies because they are a "nice colour" is not a good enough reason to breed. Although that is a reason that some will use. If you are going to be in the game for the long haul, the last thing you want to be known as is a "colour breeder" or "puppy farmer". Colours of certain breeds will always be a fav with joe public. Certain breeders will breed to this market and have quite a few litters each year. If you get lumped into that category. Your choices of quality studs/bitches down the track (presuming here you are going to get a bitch later on and continue on in this world) will not be available to you. Doors will start to close and you will only be limited to inferior animals from people who are labelled in a similar category. I have a really nice dark red BC. I have been having stud enquiries on him since he was 6 months old. Not because he may be a nice dog (he's still a puppy, so who knows what he will turn out like), but his colour and the colour he may carry. He has some nice qualities that MAY when he matures be useful. But until he matures, he is a goofy pet that I am having fun with showing and in other activities. If the dog is good enough. People will notice him if he is out there of his own accord, and not just for his colour. That is what you want. The really good dogs advertise themselves without any help.