Mystiqview

I am in Queensland as well. I will normally attach a theme to my litters as well. I generally ask the people for suggestions based on my theme and am happy for their input. Some come up with really good names based on the theme so am happy to go for it, or I will just attach a pedigree name myself. It is quite common here for breeders to wait until all the puppies are "sold" and have owner's names before sending off the paperwork. Saves double handling (and fees) as we can register straight into the new owner's name. Sometimes if you are chasing the litter to be registered before all puppies have a name, then yes, they will be registered in the breeder's name then transferred to the new owner when one is found.

What breed are you talking about Shortstep? In border's ee-red is a masking gene, so it will hide what is genetically underneath. So you will not see seal, sable, merle, tri-colour in a dog expressing the ee-red gene. The only way to know is to DNA colour test it. Like all colours, it is a recessive gene meaning both parents have to carry it. As for seal/sable. Well the agouti gene is affecting the black within the coat. There have been a few sables here in Australia. JulesP has a sable and for a description is based in a shades of red/yellow, whereas the one I bred two years ago is a different colour shaded sable much darker and quite vivid in colour. In border collies, both colours are not recognised in the ANKC breed standard. Sometimes seal can be classed here as a "dirty black". This is Myf: She is from two black/white parents. Myf's mother: Who we now think is "seal" (It should be noted you do not see these stripes when she is in full coat. It is only she has been clipped post puppy you can see them) Here is another colour that shows the "seal": http://www.bryningbordercollies.com/Border-Collie-Colours

Um... A four-5 month BC puppy is fairly well sized. Those play pens that are commonly available will not be strong enough or high enough to contain the animals. They are designed for baby puppies and smaller animals. Their construction, while metal is still rather flimsy. Personally I think you would be wasting your money on those. I have to duck to work now, but will put a better reply in later

Stelz, The bonding between the two if they have been together since pups, would already be strong. At this point, be aware of it. You won't know what it is like until you get them home. Not knowing these dogs history is the biggest thing. They could have been well loved and cared for, and there was a change in circumstance, or they could have been left outside dogs and had minimal care. At some point in time, you need to be able to train/walk them separately at various times. If you have a partner, you go one way round the block and they go the other and meet in the middle for example. If you train them together, the focus will be on the other dog/person and not you. Once they are used to be trained and you get focus, then you can introduce them back to training together later on. Definitely separate crates. Feed them in their own crates. That way you will know there will be no food squabbles. The crates can be be side by side so they can see each other. I would not suggest of separating them all the time. You need them to be comfortable to stay alone somewhere if you have to take the other dog out for any reason (Eg: Vet) As for runs etc.. that is up to you and you situation. They can run together as they are probably used to this. You want to keep some things as "normal" as you can but at the same time, establish your own routine. Dogs this age, end up in the pound for a reason.. The reason you are given is not always the true reason. All I am saying here, is make sure they are not escape artists or problem barkers (if you have sensitive neighbours).

The biggest thing when you get two dogs who may (or may not) have been together since they were pups, is they will have more than likely bonded to themselves rather than their humans. I know of some breeders up here (and not first time ones either) who advertise and will only sell two pups from the same litter if the family works full time or does not have another dog in the household. Personally I think this is wrong. Given the right start, a singular puppy is better. Two puppies = double trouble and a new owner may not have the experience and time to give to two puppies at the same time. As a breeder, I do not recommend taking two pups at the same time UNLESS you are very experienced and have the time and dedication to really put into INDIVIDUAL training. With beds and bedding, it really is a personal thing. Mine generally do not like the hammock style beds and if given the preference, will lie UNDER it rather than on top of it. So it could be an expense that they are not going to use. As far as outside/inside. I prefer to lock up my animals at night. For one it stops them chasing cane toads or other things that go bump in the night and stops them barking or digging. Also as far as toys etc go, Kongs are great, but do not go overboard until you get them home. Being older dogs, they may not take to them as quickly. Maybe get one and see how it goes. If they take to it, then get more. The biggest thing when you get these dogs home is set your routine. Get them used to you and your place. Give them a week before any real big upsets or changes to their routine.

Souff.. That is what makes those shows SOOOOOOOOO entertaining... *Roll eyes*. (note dripping sarcasm) Cannot stand any of them personally, and prefer to find something half decent on DVD...

The BOLD section is where I think you may be confused. Standard vaccinations are done around 6 weeks. With some breeders opting to do it later around 7-8 week mark. By doing it later, means the booster vaccination normally done four weeks later is also later. Some vets then recommend to do a third booster shot four weeks later again. (Thereby you get vaccinations done at 6, 12 and 16 weeks) I vaccinate my guys at 6 weeks then again at 12 weeks. I don't do the third booster as both myself and my vet are comfortable with only the two as recommended by the drug company making the vaccine. Worming however is done every two weeks from the age of two weeks old through until they are 12 weeks old. As far as what you will learn at puppy school, it greatly depends on who is running the course. Some places like to concentrate on socialisation and basic doggy manners with a little bit on worming, ticks, and the veterinary side of things. Other places do a little more on the veterinary side and less on the training side. Not knowing what your AWL place is like, and if other people there can recommend them that's fine. But for me sitting here in QLD, I would be hesitant to take a puppy to anywhere associated with a rescue shelter (especially if held on or near their grounds). Bigger chance for things like parvo and Kennel cough. Especially as a few shelters here offering obedience and puppy school have battled with Kennel Cough a number of times this year. At least with a vet, while there is the chance of the same.. I think it is less than someone bringing in a stray that has it. At least also with a vet, you can keep a good relationship going there to know of outbreaks in your area. I do much of my training of puppies at home. I have quite a few older dogs all puppy friendly. For pups, I teach heeling without a lead. I use heaps of tasty treats like kabana, sausage, and similar things and at every step with my hand by my side, I encourage the puppy to the "heel" position. Once the puppy is used to walking close next to you, it is much easier to pick up the lead. You can do the basics for sit, drop and stand yourself. As well as "wait" at times such as before meal time. The biggest thing with puppy school is controlled socialisation. Socialising your puppy with like minded (and size).

Miss Chevious, Depends on where you go for you puppy school. If you are going to an ANKC affiliated dog obedience club, then by their rules, pups should not be on their grounds before 12 weeks of age (generally when most are given their second vaccination). A lot of pet store, vets and private puppy schools run their puppy classes from 8 weeks. Some do continual intakes and others will do structured intakes. You are not confusing vaccinations every two weeks with worming every two weeks. As puppies should be wormed every two weeks until they are 12 weeks of age.

Souff, I am not condoning the actions as explained in that post. However what I am saying is there is more than likely a lot more the general public does NOT see happening on the short aired version. There are privacy laws that still need to be observed for that to be aired in the first place. Whose to say it was not all contrived for good TV viewing. The same goes for any of the reality shows.. Vet Bondi, Surf Lifesavers, the cop shows... all those... I have also signed enough search warrants in my time as well to know the police way of things.

There is nothing wrong with professional dog clippers for the work you will be doing. Just don't waste your money on cheap ones or finishing clippers. They will not last the distance. It's the blades that get hot and either need to be changed during clipping or allowed to cool off. But really.. I would still look at professional mobile grooming. Have a look at Aussie Pooch. Many of their operators do clipping services.

Puppy Sniffer, Again the problem with cross breeds is generations down. Say G1 is cav x poodle. Some pups will look a bit like mum and a bit like dad. A pup from that is put to another cav/poodle that has a different bloodline to the first... Not only do you introduce different genes to the offspring, but the two dogs could be different in what we call style. Now to make it simpler. My breed: border collies. Within the border collie breed, certain bloodlines have distinctive traits. How often do you see Oh that is XYZ bloodline?? Ok so you have line breeding and desirable (and undesirable) traits are more commonly expressed the more common ancestors are used. This is a line breed. Now in my line.. you have two pedigree border collies that are different styles. BC1 has shorter coat, long hocks, longer body, long nose. BC2 has full coat, compact body, and square head. While all resulting puppies will be border collies and look like border collies, they will show attributes from not only the parents but other influencing dogs in each dog's pedigree. This is an outcross. (Or I like to say. Mixed bag of lollies). The more mixed lollies in the mix when you breed, the bigger the variation in resulting end product. The same can be said with these mongrels. It really depends on what the so called breeder is crossing when and what with. If there is a larger population of poodle than cavs then the puppies may look more like poodle than cav's. To me.. Any dog locked up in those runs day in day out is cruel. There is no break from the tap tap tap on the window. They are not given the opportunity to explore, socialise and develop muscles as they are locked up in those small enclosures. As a groomer.. don't I know about how some of these dogs are "pedigree" Cavoodles.. They are better than their true pedigree cousins. They are 3 or 4 generation pure cavoodle... hmm... Some will believe anything.

Puppy Sniffer. There are quite a few online websites dedicated to the sale of puppies. Email, photo exchange.. Many registered breeders advertise online as well. Difference: ETHICS Biggest problem here in Qld at the moment, there seems to be a target/belief that AMSTAFF = PITBULL.. by the ignorant and ill-informed. So as a puppy shop, I can understand on one level why they do not want those breeds. I would not like to see those breeds sold by pimply faced kids with no knowledge of the breed and those who are suitable or not to own them. Amstaffs should be left to responsible breeders to filter the idiot portion of the wider community. If a person selling an item is under the firm belief that what they are selling is X... then is it really mis-representation? If the person who dropped off those puppies said they were X crosses then.. unless there is doubt by looking at them.. then who is to really know what they are?? The only way to guarantee is DNA testing the parents, and then profiling. Something back yard breeders do not do. Many registered breeders do not either, but may be made to soon...

I thought Benshiva you made an excellent response. Very hard to top yours One final thought: If there is a colour preference, be wary of claims of "Rare" by breeders. Many colours advertised as "rare" are not rare at all and happen naturally within the breed. In Australia, only a few of all the colours possible are eligible for what is called "Main Registration" and therefore breeding. The other colours while occurring naturally within the breed are not recognised in Australia's breed standard. These other colours are becoming popular in some areas and there is an increase on breeding these non-recognised colours. An increase in price does not necessarily mean in increase in quality. Make sure the breeder is focussed on quality in their breeding program and due care is taken to ensure temperament and health concerns are addressed.

This is an invasion of privacy in the least!!! To be aired on national TV. A bit like haning out the dirty laundry isn't it! I don't watch these shows. Nor do I necessarily condone the actions and opinions of those on the show. But before making sweeping allegations, I think it needs to be considered on this forum, that a warrant may have been acquired previously. There may have been police in attendance, or the law itself gives officers power to enter the property if there is a genuine suspicion of cruelty. To put the boot on the other foot. I am sure if people on this forum thought their neighbour's place had a cruelty case to answer and did not have concrete absolute proof at the time, would like the authorities to do something about an animal who cruelty is being dealt to.

I wonder how many of these BYB who sell to pet stores will start selling online only? It seems a good way via some websites to keep yourself anonymous. No traceability. When you see some of the dedicated puppy stores around here, you have to ask how many "breeders" of poodle crosses are actually on their books. One web site listed all these excellent designer mutts they were getting in the following weeks. It really is sad to see puppies advertised as a new product line like a new variety chocolate biscuit being launched by Arnotts. While I against the principles of PIAA... IF and that is IF they are regulating their members, then hopefully that is a positive step. Something has to be done to make those people accountable for the mongrels they sell. ANKC Membership and especially this new toted ANKC Excellent Breeder program should be enough for accountability for these drafted laws. Registered breeders already do and pay I think enough in membership fees and registration fees to council for permits etc... With the DNA testing as well.. It is really pushing out the hobby breeder in favour of commercial enterprise.

Qld a few years back tried the same.. Compulsory desexing along with microchip.. The microchip made it in.. But the desexing didn't.. I don't and won't desex my animals at 8 weeks. Too many studies have shown the negatives of early desexing. Poor growth and all that. My belief and I will stick to it. There are some BC breeders who do desex their pups early and it is their choice. I am just stringent on who gets my pups. There are some large pet shops here who sell puppies.. They are not in the front window.. yet they have no problems selling their puppies.. They have a large sign out the front that says which designer mongrel they have in stock. And with the places like "puppy shack", "Puppy Palace" and other shops targeting the mongrel crossbreds, that do not have puppies in their front windows.. well.. Legislation while designed to control the majority, only really controls the minority. First of all the others have to be CAUGHT!!. The registered breeders can be traced through their registrations, puppy farms and pet stores can also be traced through their registrations to government and council. What legislation does a poor job in controlling is the small back yard breeders who supply a lot of these pet stores. They have one or two small dogs that are being bred and bred, fly under the radar of local councils and continue to pump out horrible inferior puppies. The only way this group is regulated is through someone complaining and it listened to by the proper authorities. One just needs to look in the local paper or the various free classified pet trading websites around to see this. 6 week old puppies who are not wormed, vaccinated or microchipped being sold for hundreds of dollars. If the current legislation was working, you would expect to see a reduction in these numbers.. But has there been???

If you no longer can take him down to the grooming salon. What about looking at a mobile groomer? A set of Whal 2 speed Clippers will cost you about $200 or more depending on where you get it. You will need at least two blades to clip a Sammy. Depending on how dense the coat is, you may need more. You will also need clipper oil or Blade Ice to keep the blades cool and lubricated. #7 blades range about $50 each #10 Blades about $40 Again depending on how thick the coat is, you may only get one or two clips (more if you are lucky) out of a set of blades before they will need to be sharpened. You have to be careful about "clipper burn" on the sensitive parts of his skin (under belly, groin in particular). Clipper burn can happen anywhere. If he has sensitive skin, then you can cause skin irritations if you do not know what you are doing and clip too short. You also have to be careful you do not cut him. If you have had to sedate the dog in the past, then I especially would not be attempting to clip your dog yourself. If you are set on this path, then I would look at one of those grooming courses. Clipping a dog is more than just getting a set of clippers and away you go. There is technique to ensure a good job. Also during summer. Try regular warm baths. The warm water water helps the coat to loosen and encourages it to blow. You do not need shampoo in every wash. A hydrobath is great as it stimulates the blood vessels under the skin and the hair follicles.

Pups like to chew things... and as a result sometimes it goes through them. Around that age, he will want to be start to "set" his teeth, so he may be chewing more things than normal. So it could be something in your garden that does not agree with him. It could be a gut infection. Pups and diarrhoea go hand in hand.. Things tend to go through them without warning and for no logical reason. I Keep "Peptosyl" on hand - great for binding up pups I also keep "Gastrostop" on hand (from chemists) Rasberry cordial, given straight can be good for settling upset stomachs. About 3ml. With the first one, read the label. With the second, consult your chemist. I generally give one tablet. If it has not sorted itself within 24 hours, then I will consult the vet. I also will starve the dog for 12-24 hours depending on how bad the squirts are. Then introduce a small meal of very plain boiled rice and then the next meal a small one of dry kibble. Introduce food too quickly back to an upset stomach, and it will keep happening. You need to wait until the gastro bug causing the squirts to pass.

Last year we went on a two week driving holiday with four dogs.. Two adults, One 12 week old and one 8 week old. All piled in the forby and dog trailer and went for two weeks touring mid NSW. The pups coped just fine. ETA: Just treat it as a "normal" part of their life. Do not make a big fuss of it, and Do not moddly coddle them, but be aware they may need more regular toilet breaks etc.

Talk to your local vet/s: Ask them what their instances of parvo and Kennel cough is. I would avoid Main dog offleash parks and major public areas like that until the full set of vaccinations are given. If you know of trusted friends who you (and they) think your dog would get along fine with and not be intimidated by the other dog, then IMO socialise with them. The biggest danger is the other dog being a little big rough or not knowing its own strength. etc and accidently hurting or injuring a young pup. Take him to puppy school. This time of year can be hard due to holidays etc.. But these are generally controlled environments and lets face it.. if you go to a local vet.. it is no different to taking the pup down for its vaccinations etc. You can get paranoid if you are not careful. In reality, there is more danger of your pup developing a behavioural issue through poor socialisation than it getting parvo or KC (unless there is an outbreak in your area). But really. Socialise your dog. Be sensible about it.

I recommend for my BC babies: All Raw of course!! From 4-5 weeks onward Chicken necks, frames, wings etc.. Lamb flaps or Lamb Brisket Once they start to get their adult teeth introduce Beef Brisket or smaller soup bones around 12-14 weeks Once they have ALL their adult teeth you can introduce marrowbone. I get the butcher to cut mine in 1/4 (Length and down the middle) (Around 6 months) If you introduce hard bones too early, there is a high chance of them breaking their canine teeth. Not a huge issue, they will go black and look unsightly, but I prefer them to not break them. ETA: I will cut my chicken necks in half or so if I find at a young age they are swallowing whole.

Be careful about using Laser pointers. Make sure you NEVER shine it towards his eyes. They are very dangerous items. I know of some people who have successfully used pulse collars/harness. Do not confuse with shock collars. As the pulse is very very low and not used in a shock sense. Think of it as a vibration from a mobile phone. Has the puppy been confirmed deaf by BAER testing? If not, then I would look at getting this done. They lightly sedate the pup and put electrodes just under the skin around the head and run frequencies. At the end of the test, you will know if your dog is completely deaf in one or both ears or how much hearing is lost. Talk to your vet about BAER testing. I know it is done up here in Qld through the Uni Of Queensland (UQ) small animal clinic. Deafness is sometimes associated with the white gene and often pups who have a lot of white or are white dogs can suffer from deafness.

Mine are all show trained. In the ring, they are allowed to run infront a way. If I am walking them to the park or whatever.. they are required to walk "with me". Not official "heel" but with me, not pulling. When walking, all four are on flat collars and verbal control. I can happily walk four border collies together without them dragging me down the road. I also have a back issue due to breaking it in a horse fall when I was in my 20's. What I find amazing sometimes is the excuses that people come up with.. Their dog is this or that. It essentially boils down to the person NOT the dog. If the person does not spend the time training it (and that goes for ripping up the furniture), then no one can be blamed BUT the person. People are generally lazy by nature and people by nature generally will find ways of making life easier. The excuse by some... "At least the dog gets out for a walk rather than bored stupid in the yard" is misleading. The dog may be walking, but is it really interacting with what is happening outside? Really - Think about it: I tell you that you MUST for your health walk 2kms a day minimum. So you go out and you do your walk.. You are doing it because you HAVE to.. not because you WANT to... Do you really enjoy it as much as if you WANTED to??? Next time you see someone walking their dog.. Have a look at the interaction... You see some who are genuinely enjoying the walk.. and others who are dragged along and not really enjoying the outing.

The head halters and the like are toted by many obedience clubs as "power steering for your dog". They are toted as safer and they "teach" your dog not to pull. Sorry. They are not necessarily safer. I have seen gauged eyes from badly fitting halters cutting in or from the dogs feet and claws gauging at the halter in an attempt to get them off. Yes they do eventually teach your dog to stop pulling.... only while they are wearing the head halter. Take it off, and they pull. nothing is better than proper training They are also toted as being better and more humane than a check chain, as people think these are cruel. Like any tool used incorrectly, they can be. If used properly and with care, they are no crueller than a flat collar on a pulling dog (that also chokes the dog). I have been at a number of clubs and seen a new person given a chain, and no time is given on how to correctly use the tool they have been given. Same if the person buys the chain at the supermarket or pet store. They are not given with instructions on how to use them. The halters are also not given "good" instructions on how to use them. They tell you how to fit them..... IMO opinion clubs sell halters and promote halters because they don't have the time and in some cases the experience in the instructors to CORRECTLY teach how to use a flat collar or chain. The halter is put on, the dog dragged around the class and the owner told to keep moving. You have control of the head halter, so the dog has to follow or have its head (as opposed) to the neck dragged around. I walk mine on either a flat collar or check chain. The chain is used in the show ring or obedience work. It is not used as a hard correction chain as my dogs are taught to heel "offlead" from 8 week puppies using food, reward and praise... and flat collars. By the time I put a leash on my dogs, they are used to heeling off lead the lead is used because of council requirements. They are taught from an early age the best place to be is WITH ME! ETA: The only time my guys are in a harness.. Is when we go Four Wheel Driving and then it is used to strap them in the vehicle.

I am unsure if Staffylover has posted a picture of her sable (That I accidently bred) Sable is recognised in all other countries EXCEPT Australia. They are not rare, but I would guess they are not that common... yet.... (as compared to the other unrecognised colours like Lilac/white, Choc Tri, Blue Tri, Lilac Tri, Choc Merle and merle Tris). There are some kennels who actively promote the unrecognised colours here in Australia and actively breed for them for the pet market as they generally fetch a higher price than the old fashioned black/white.