Mystiqview

Oh good...I've just learnt how to use it :) Now no one will be able to say.....Ooooohhhhh....she spends so much time on DOL.. :laugh: I can lurk in the background with everyone else. But honestly, I don't think anyone ever looks to see who is on & who is not. {Bold} I know I don't. Nor really care. Do you think people are just getting too sensitive when it comes to social media now. How dare you "unfriend" someone on Facebook that you hardly talk to, "I won't be your friend because you are friends with XYZ". Geez, is it all THAT important that our lives need to be run by it? Or does it just goes to show who has a life outside the little illuminated screen and who doesn't. LOL

I have one large "redflex" heat pad and two smaller wombaroo heat pads in the box on about 4 wool blankets, kylie sheets and then a synthetic wool blanket on top (which is easy to wash and dry). Over the corner of the whelping box where one heat pad is butted up, is a small polar fleece blanket, where they can snuggle under for added warmth if they need to. (not to mention the box is covered with blanket as well to prevent drafts. Vets have advised against tube feeding as it can cause a sore/rub spot on the back of the throat which can lead to infection, and have only advised to tube feed at absolute necessity (ie: not suckling from bottle) Not good as I have already had infection causing the fading puppy syndrome. I just did a quick calculation: the smallest pup is putting on about 3% body weight/day and the large pups are putting on about 5% body weight/day. I suppose when you look at those figures, the wee ones are not doing too badly. I just so much more like it when I see 10-20 grams/day rather than 2-5 grams/day

Happens all the time unfortunately.

If you post, you are no longer Anon. I do it out of force of habit. I value my privacy. It also does not worry me that some sign in anon and others not. There are bigger things to worry about than something so trivial.

We had a litter born on Anzac day by C-sect. One pup was born naturally then the visit to the vet. According to the vet, they think the bitch may have had an infection in the womb causing her to "overcook" the puppies. The placentas were quite broken down when they did the C-sect and were worried about some puppies not making it. In the next 24 hours we had fading puppy syndrome and lost the two largest females. We were given antibiotics for the remaining pups and I have not lost any more. The bitch was also nearly on the border of mastitis (only rock hard and lumpy looking - no puss/blood). We drained her and she is now nice and supple and is now not producing the volume of milk she was. I think there is probably still enough there to feed pups, but not the excess. Two puppies - the one born naturally (180gr born) and the littlest one weighing 141 grams at birth are not putting on as much weight as I would like. The rest of the puppies are putting on the expected 10-20grams/day where these two wee ones are only putting on 2-5gr/day. I am concerned they are not putting on enough weight. They all got good coats, not dehydrated, suckling from mum and being supped 4-5 times/day by bottle on Wombaroo milk replacer. The two little ones SHOULD be putting on more weight than they are. Bitch has been on antibiotics since the C-sect. She has been wormed Does anyone have any suggestions that I am missing here to get these two to put on more weight.

I agree. Not all dogs are suited to the show ring. Conformation is great, but unfortunately personality is what really makes it. Call it the "X Factor" or the "Look at Me". Dogs lacking that are harder to show and win with. If two dogs side by side who are equal in all other areas, one with spunk and one without, the spunky one will more than likely win. Some dogs love the show ring, others don't. How do you stack him - free stack using bait or manual placement? Maybe change how you present him to make it more positive and enjoyable? How old is he? Does he need time to mature and get confidence?? Can you do something else with the dog to maybe build drive and confidence and bring him back in the ring later on? Is he not winning in the show ring because he is not as good as you think? You do not have to answer these questions publicly. Something maybe to reflect on quietly. How do you REALLY know he is of very good conformation/structure? (Kennel blindness) Have other experienced breeders/exhibitors commented on how nice a boy he is and whether he should stay or go? (They have seen the dog and maybe have put their hands on the dog to be able to evaluate him) What makes this dog a great potential stud dog? Is it for you or for others? If for you, can he be handy later on? Does he have qualities that will improve your bitches? Do you have room to keep him longer to see how he turns out. Can you lease him or stash him somewhere for breeding use? It is hard for anyone to really answer such a question on a forum. For one, we cannot see the dog, secondly we cannot place our hands on the dog to evaluate his conformation (in case of breeder bias). Sometimes it does take an outside person to really evaluate the dog and open the eyes of breeders who believe their dogs are excellent. If the dog is that good, then just because he does not like the show ring, does not mean he should be thrown out with the bathwater.

Not having a go at the sire or anything here, but why did you choose a dog who cannot perform the "deed" naturally? There are often more than one possible stud a breeder can choose. The dog you used (based on what is written in this thread) would may have been better used on a proven bitch if he can only do AI. Some injuries are that, injuries from an external influence (Eg car accident). Some breeders I know claim "injury" for soemthing structurally wrong with the dog. Again not trying to say you stud dog owner is deceitful or anything. This kind of stuff DOES happen. I would also ask why you have not asked some of these questions of the breeder of your bitch or even the stud dog owner themselves? Especially the one regarding return service. This I think personally should have been your first point of call. After all, They are the best to answer this as you did not have it set beforehand from reading the posts. I see you have taken great pains to keep the names hidden in this post which is great, however there can be some in your breed who know you are talking about if there are few dogs who have had injuries similar to the dog you used. The stud dog owner may not be appreciative of it appearing on DOL. (Some breeders love to gossip and some love to backstab with malice). Natural mating is best for maiden. I would not have gone for an AI on a maiden bitch - proven stud or not. Agree with the others - your prog tests were way too far apart. Although in saying this, I have had bitches mate at day 16 and conceive and whelp litters. Have you got yourself a mentor in your breed? If not, they are great to have around as they know the breed and can generally guide you through you first few litters and how the breeding scene works and standard protocol etc. Best of luck for your next mating. Hope you get a nice litter from her. Sounds like you are trying to do the right thing and 10 points for that when there are new breeders out there not willing to take these steps.

Mia's first litter consisted of 11 puppies. Best advice I can give is supplement, supplement and supplement. Just make sure your bitch has enough milk or does not produce too much milk and then get mastitis. I supplemented mine about 3-4 times a day and allowed mum to take care of them over night for me. Watch mum to make sure she does not cull any if she thinks there are too many to care for. Be careful if you are tube feeding. It can create a sore at the back of the throat when you get the puppies to swallow the tube. If you get a sore, it can easily become infected or they will not want to suckle. I weighed mine twice a day to monitor their weight gains

Ptolomy, There were 8 in total. 4 males and 4 females. The first one was born at 1:40 am and then there was nothing. She stopped contracting. I gave her a half dose of Oxy at 2:45 and no action, so at 3:10am the phone call to the vet was made. Mia's first two litters were whelped with ease and very quickly. They started about 5pm and was all over by 9pm. The first litter there were 11 puppies and the second one 9 puppies. The vet does not know why this time she had such trouble. The whole mating was weird too. In the past it has been text book. Day 11, stood for two days. excellent ties, and no dramas with anything. This time, I went to Sydney to see the stud dog. Did a swag of prog tests. Got a mating on day 13, but the stud did not seem overally keen (proven stud and sire of a number of champions), the next two days, they both were not really keen or interested. Got another prog test on day 15 - 22, and dog still not interested, even Mia was not interested where normally she is a real tart at this stage. So we did an AI on the Friday before I had to be back in Brisbane. My weights ranged from the 140 grams, 2 x 180 grams, a few at 270 grams with the heaviest being 311 grams. As she has larger litters, her weight ranges have all been around the same. Mia herself is not a large bitch. They are all doing well. They have not lost weight from yesterday to today. The littest one has remained the same so I am happy at that. The larger ones have gained weight. Edit: LOL on the sleep. I was up 36 hours straight. I had a well deserved rest last night and got someone else to baby sit for me.

I have two Wombaroo heat pads. Good mats, but the heat welded sides are starting to separate. Mind you, they are now 7 years old. Great as they themselves do not get too hot and rely on the baby getting on the mat to heat up to a mild heat to keep them warm. I LOVE the redlfex ones. Vet Products direct sell them and they are a little bit more expensive than some of the others. They are very solid and the mat is quite thick and durable. They also boast a chew resistant cord coming from the mat for the first 30 cm or so. My other mat has some little teeth marks in it from when the puppies are older. I am borrowing a friends Redflex large mat at the moment. I have ordered my own as I really love these mats. They operate on the same principle as the Wombaroo ones.

Maybe she was jealous you were not showing interest in her dog. I would have been uncomfortable if the exhibitor walked away leaving me alone with their dog. If that happened, I personally would walk away. You don't know if they will come back and say you did something or if the dog will do something with the owner walking away. Going to a dog show like that, you have to expect people to come up and want to pat dogs. It can be annoying when you are trying to groom before a show, or if the dog is feeling stressed at the time. But otherwise, I don't mind people patting my dogs.

Pups were born yesterday morning. I born at 1:40am and the rest by C-section. The biggest and the smallest. Little Ebony weighing in at just 140gr and Spot in at 311grams

I swapped from Advance (and Advance Active) to BH and didn't have any ill effects from changing, I swapped for the same reasons Advance was getting expensive when I had to buy different varieties but with BH I can feed the same type just different amounts. I changed pretty much cold turkey too. I feed heaps less as well! They recommend 2-3 cups for my 15kg girl and 3-4 cups for the boys (20kg & 22kg), if I was feeding them that they would be obese and yet they are extremely active and the two youngest do flyball and agility. My youngest boy who I struggled with keeping weight on and was on Advance Active as it was the only food who would stop him looking like skin and bones only gets about 2 cups if that. I fed my oldest boy the same amount as Advance but he put weight on so had to cut that back and he is back too his usual weight. Thank you for answering my question. I am presuming "They" (Highlighted in bold) are Black Hawk? I started my boy on 2 cups of BH, will monitor his weight and adjust as necesary. The girl is on 1 cup. The pregnant one is eating what she feels she needs. She is not a stupid eater, so is pacing herself pretty good. About 2-3 cups a day.

Already said I had mixed old with new and introducing gradually.

Thanks Sheena. Mine gets heaps of RMB and other raw as well. That side I am not worried. My boy has finally matured it would seem and his chest has dropped. It is funny for the last 2.5 years, it did not matter how much food I gave him (4 cups of advance a day), and still could not put on weight. The last few months, he is running more now we have moved back to acerage, and he is now only getting two cups and was FINALLY putting on weight on Advance Active. I think he is about 22kg. My desexed bitch who is about 16-18kg you just have to wave food under her nose and she will put on 10 kilos (well not 10 kilos, but you know what I mean). Mia (Princess) is about 40 days pregnant, so I am now changing her over from Adult to Puppy for the last bit of pregnancy. I generally with bitches in whelp leave food out and let them eat how they want. Thankfully I am not blessed with her eating a whole bag in one sitting. She is pretty sensible in that regard. I know when I moved from Advance normal to Advance Active, I had a couple of weeks of soft poo until they got used to the extra protein/fat content. I expect I may get some with this, as this also contains emu oil, which I only give to them in tablet form when they are blowing coat. The extra oil may by its nature, cause a little sloppyness. Time will tell. One thing I do like is the small kibble. Pricess doesn't like large kibble.

Been years since I used it. Thanks for correcting my memory. I need to stay away from Ivemectin, I should of known better before posting.. However I know some who swear by it for worming. Don't know if it does heartworm though. I use Interceptor for my guys. Found it works well. Don't use spectrum as I found the flea component in it useless. Always advocate reading the label before you use any product..

It is also genetic. If your breeder does not already know about it, I would tell them. It is something they need to know for future breeding plans.

Found plenty of warm water baths help to shed the coat quicker. Don't need shampoo in all of them. But the warm water and the stimulation from a hydrobath helps quicken the shed time. Emu Oil tablets is apparently also good for quickening the shed time.

I have just bought some today. I know the label on the packet says 200gr/day for weight for my dogs. I am changing from Advance (getting waaaay too expensive, even getting it wholesale @ $93/bag) so have mixed it through to change them over.. to limit stomach upsets. Has anyone else changed from Advance - BH? and if so, did anyone else pick up on dogs squirting etc during the change over. I have a pregnant bitch here who I have placed onto puppy and is living inside... due to ticks outside. I have found with other products, you never seem to need to feed what is on the label, generally less. Have anyone else found the same with this?

Panacur can be used on dogs. If this is the stuff you are talking about. There are dose rates on the back. You dose for three consecutive days. Can't remember now if once/day or twice. You will need to read the label. Horrible horrible messy stuff. You need to put more in the syringe for the "spit out factor" Just also be careful about what other products you are using on your dog as it can react with other medications, or you can overdose if other products also contain Ivemectin. Best talk to a vet.

Horse called "Squiggle" The "blaze" on his forehead looked like a little squiggle

Re "Tree Hugging Greenies" I don't care if a few of you have found this comment offensive, hilarious or what. I don't care if you think you are an Animal Lib, lover or what. If the shoe fits, then what's in a name?? Frustration about the comment "lets just put those white boxers in rescue because they will find them a home". WTF???? I am not certainly a heartless bitch. I have worked in pounds, put animals to sleep after three days and tried my damnedest to find homes for dogs that come into the pound. It is damn heartbreaking to put down a dog who you have tracked down the owner or original breeder who does not give a damn that their dog is going to be PTS tomorrow because they can't be bothered to come in. We had overnight drop off boxes at the pound I worked in. I have had people come in claiming they "Found" this animal, when you know damn well it is theirs. Others who want to surrender it just before school holidays, and then get up you because you charge for surrender, only to find the same animal in the overnight box. Track them down through a microchip and they don't know what you are talking about.. "I sold that dog months ago" I have also had to put to sleep my own dogs and puppies, and cried at every one. Breeders are constantly being dictated to by those who are "lovers of the breed" or similar who have never bred a litter before nor plan to because they do not have the will or fortification to do what is needed if it is needed. Some criticism is good, and hopefully brings into line those breeders who are not doing the right thing. However we still need to remain practical, logical and pragmatic in our approach rather than just going off with the heart strings strumming loudly. There were some excellent posts by those in the breed and those who know the colour genetics and some of the reasons to WHY these pups were being put down. Just because ONE dog here or ONE dog there is fine and the person decided to keep it is not a benchmark for the whole breed. Of those white pups being put to sleep, they may have been deaf and/or deafness is known to run in that line. That was not shared or possibly known when this topic was started. I know of lines in my breed who produce heavily white factored puppies who are deaf, and other lines who produce the same who for some reason avoid deafness. The same can be possible in boxers as it is the same or similar gene. If the breed club is demanding this, then the breeder may feel they have no choice. IF this is the case, then maybe look at the source and seek to change this. It will not happen overnight. In topics like these, there are those who will naturally think with their hearts rather than their brains. Some will not have any clue or idea and base their arguments in rumour and innuendo rather than fact. And even when presented with fact, will ignore it. The reference was not made to any particular person in this thread, rather than the collective whole of those who judge breeders for that they do and that they don't do. "Damned if you do, Damned if you don't". Go back to a post I made ages ago in this thread about genetics. If there is a way to prevent or limit the chances then this should be the way to go. Sometimes things do not work out, and breeders should be able to have the option to PTS HUMANELY those pups who would not have a fulfilling life due to some problem. If a breeder chooses to PTS their entire litter, then it is their conscience it rides on, not mine, not yours. I would ask however why this was necessary and would sincerely hope they have damn good reason to do it. I certainly do not advocate the unnecessary PTS of puppies. Sometimes it has to be done. If in this case, they are, then maybe the people here should start lobbying the breed club and controlling bodies to prevent this from happening and seek about changing the source not the outcome. Wuffles: Not a dig at you, but in your breed, they still allow Merle to Merle matings. In this combination, breeders produce deaf and white puppies. Other breeds have banned this mating for this reason. Your breeder kept your dog. Great. But do they also do Merle to Merle matings? If so, then this is not a good breeding practice. If they don't then this is great news. Each breed have breeders who do not do the right thing and those who do a damn excellent job and should be praised and recognised. Some take ownership and responsibility for each and every pup they sell until that pup dies of hopefully old age or natural attrition. Others don't give a damn once it leaves their possession at 8 weeks (or earlier). The welfare groups and some of their extreme views are making those breeders who DO it right harder and harder to operate. You can legislate to the hilt, but then you need the resources to follow up and police it. Controlling bodies are not doing enough to control those members who are doing the wrong thing and turning a blind eye. Fuelling the fire and ammunition to the welfare agencies. Some breeds do need to clean up their act. Some breeders should not be breeding. I know some BYB who breed the occasional litter and do a better job than some registered breeders. (Not that I am supporting the BYB either)

This forum IS hilarious. Tree Hugging Greenie.. My definition. My words, for those who criticise ethical breeders for everything they do. Damned if a breeder does, Damned if a breeder doesn't. I have no issue of breeders putting to sleep their white boxers, if they feel they need to do this. As long as it is done humanely and for the right reasons. At the end of the day, they have to live with those decisions. Wuffles: I could don't care if you agree with me or not. You have your opinion, I have mine. I have produced half white faced puppies and I BAER tested them. If they were deaf, they would have been put to sleep. I have put to sleep puppies as old as 3 weeks and even put to sleep a 14 month dog I bred and later rescued back. Better I did it than the pound. Just because YOUR dog is not deaf, and it was from normally marked parents, and IS allowed in the standard, does not necessarily benchmark everything else for those in the Boxer breed. I'm a bit confused. This thread established that breeders know the combination that produces white boxers. Can't the whole pts thing be avoided in the first place by not breeding that combination? How is it responsible to deliberately breed together two dogs knowing deaf dogs may well be the end result? Shouldn't the breed club dictate should not to pts white boxers but not breed for them in the first place? As Ms Hanson put it so aptly, please explain? This is best answered by the boxer club or someone connected there in that breed? As Greatmate said in one of her posts, does anyone here REALLY know the instances and percentages of white boxers in Australia routinely PTS and how many are kept alive? In my breed, we have a similar rule about NOT being allowed to breed Merle to Merle together as this does create deaf/blind animals. However the breeding of two merles is allowed in other collie breeds.

I'm glad you can see some perspective on this issue. If anyone believes that breeders callously put to sleep puppies on a whim, they need to have their head read. A breeder takes responsibility for a dog for LIFE. How did all those deaf dogs in rescue get there? Deaf dogs are not an easy placement. If you are talented enough to develop a group of potential owners that will understand the needs of deaf dogs, then that is brilliant. But the number of homes for them is not infinite. There are alot of breeders who do try to minimise the chance of health issues, and when they do crop up they take responsibility for them. Dumping a puppy on rescue, when there are so many completely healthy dogs that they could be rehoming is unconscionable. Well Said

This forum IS hilarious. Tree Hugging Greenie.. My definition. My words, for those who criticise ethical breeders for everything they do. Damned if a breeder does, Damned if a breeder doesn't. I have no issue of breeders putting to sleep their white boxers, if they feel they need to do this. As long as it is done humanely and for the right reasons. At the end of the day, they have to live with those decisions. Wuffles: I could don't care if you agree with me or not. You have your opinion, I have mine. I have produced half white faced puppies and I BAER tested them. If they were deaf, they would have been put to sleep. I have put to sleep puppies as old as 3 weeks and even put to sleep a 14 month dog I bred and later rescued back. Better I did it than the pound. Just because YOUR dog is not deaf, and it was from normally marked parents, and IS allowed in the standard, does not necessarily benchmark everything else for those in the Boxer breed.