Mystiqview

I know we have to be on the watch at all times for Parvo. But for those who are attending the Million Paws walk in Brisbane on the weekend, it may be a good idea to keep an extra watch out for dogs possibly showing signs. A friend posted this link to nine msn News: Parvovirus Outbreak Hits Queensland

I noticed yesterday when I was surfing around updating my database, there is one BC breeder here advertising registered pups on this site and also advertising a number of "purebred" litters (without mention of microchipping - {Qld Legislation)on a number of other free puppy sites. And of course they "specialise" in the (non) allowable colours.

Becks, THe pup was microchipped at 8 weeks (as per Animal Management Act (Cats and Dogs)2008 )prior to leaving me.

Edit above: (on iPhone) When they paid me, I decided I did note want her back for litter. However I place importance on health testing, hence why that was written in. Stupid me did not put in co-own. However with bitches it is harder as the bitch has to be leased or transferred into the breeders name who is whelping the litter. But then, who thought a "friend" would screw me over.

People read the above and learn what can happen. Also make sure your bitch is microchipped and has been DNA Profiled it may be the only way to get her back. We often hear of how the person with the bitch may get screwed but in this case see how the owner of the bitch has been screwed. So sorry this has has happened to you and your bitch Mystiqview. I did not put this bitch out in co-own. I had written into the contract a return litter/puppy. They paid me for the bitch when she was 14 months old, however in the contract there was still the condition the bitch must be hip/elbow scored and eye tested PRIOR to breeding. It was also in the contract that if they do not wish to keep the bitch, she was to be returned and should they contravene any condition, they forfeit rights to the bitch. Well they did not health test her claiming that being a "working" dog any hip/elbow score Would be inaccurate. They did not eye test her. And then used a dog of theirs who ALSO was not fully health tested. They charged a full amount for each puppy gaining a healthy $7000 pure profit. I had requested to have bitch returned as per contract upon finding her for sale. And was told a F OFF This was a supposed friend and at the time they got the puppy from me had been doing the right thing with regards to health testing. It now seems like their primary concern is maximum profit by not health testing their breeding stock. Pretty peeved as this is a bitch holding my prefix being used in a breeding program with someone who is no better than a BYB Would I do BT again? No

Mita. As I said, I am not defending the man. I read that article alone. And what I said was from that individual article. I am a registered breeder and do ALL the relevant health testing and like any ETHICAL responsible breeder, strive to produce happy healthy puppies. However, I am fully aware there ARE registered breeders of various breeds who are registered and in no shape or form can be called ethical. What he has done in the past, and will continue to do in the future I cannot stop or really bother to stop And get upset about it. The best ALL registered breeders can do is rise above him and the widely pet shop acceptance by joe public. Our controlling bodies are really not doing much to get out to joe public and tell them WHY a registered pedigree dog from an ethical breeder is the way to go. Even when their members do the wrong thing they sit on their hands and do nothing.

I had a full contract on the bitch I had out. They failed to do the health testing, bred the bitch to an untested dog of theirs. They have made quite a considerable profit on this bitch. I believe she is now up for sale on the classifieds. When I had contacted them and informed them of the contract terms. They first claimed they offered her back months ago (lie as they bred her), and secondly then said, how can I guarantee it is my bitch they have up for sale. Full clauses in the contract of what/who etc. To take it further I will need to take it to the small claims court. Bottom line.. BT's are not worth the paper they are printed on unless you wish to take it to court when you are screwed over by someone not any better than a BYB.

I would be asking how old the dog is and for what reason you are trying to find the testicles. If they are not down by 16 weeks, then I would be taking them off any breeding prospective. I have heard them come down as late as 12 months, but really, the chances of it then being produced later on is also increased and it is not worth the chance to find out. Pet home. If doing an ultrasound to find them for desexing, I would probably be asking a specialist vet, maybe even a repo vet.

From what I was able to read of the document. He did not do anything wrong per sae. He did not slam any particular breeder or kennel, and has picked on a minority of animals who have health issues for a variety of reasons. I am not defending him, but an article such as that posted, needs to be put in correct context. Bottom line, is no matter where a person gets their new pup, they should research as much as they can. Buying from a registered breeder is no guarantee either of healthy, quality animals. For everyone's sake, there should just be a list of do's and don'ts and questions to ask yourself as a buyer and the person selling the animal. Unfortunately there is so much MIS information out there that it is easy to get confused. For me, Dogs/cats/birds to not belong in pet stores. Period.

Get in touch with the AWL or some of the other rescue groups on here. Unfortunately, there are places where this is quite common. I was hit up at McDonalds in Gympie once the same for a kitten. I advertised it FTGH on another site and found a home quickly enough for it. Just check with your local area regarding microchipping laws. I think by law now, any pup/animal needs to be mircrochipped before sale/give away.

Ellz: Or the person who takes the bitch, screws you over, and won't even honour any part of the agreement/contract.

I know in my breed some consider 4 a decent size litter (at least as far as stud fee goes) I suppose if you get all of one sex, then that is part and parcel of breeding. I did breeders term once on a A litter. I got two pups - one male, one female. Too bad so sad as far as trying again goes. The deal was one litter and that is what I got. Personally I think two litters are enough, especially if the first was small. As for more of one sex, well it only takes one pup to be the potential next BIS.

Have you informed the breeder? They also need to know of this issue to try to attempt to avoid it in future breeding programs.

Depending on what needs to be done. Try a local fabrication workshop

It is essential that it is very clear what costs and arrangements are going to happen. Who pays for general upkeep and who pays for health tests. Also when the bitch is to be bred and how long do you keep her entire if not bred early. If you take on a bitch, be prepared to potentially lose the bitch for up to 6 months as the breeder may wish to keep the bitch from the beginning of her season to when the pups leave at 8 weeks. If you have ANY qualms about that potential aspect, then maybe rethink a bitch in favour of a dog. If there is anything you think is amiss in what the breeder is wanting back, then please ask them questions and get clarification. If you are still unsure, do not go through with it. Some BT are good, others are very one sided to the breeder My BT has been a co-own with buyer paying full price and me to assess the puppy at 18 months for breeding. If I wish to proceed, then I pay all health testing as I would need to do this of I kept the bitch here and re-imburse the puppy buyer their purchase price or give option for a puppy in the litter. At least as others have said, if she is desexed, then they get their pet and I dont lose either. BT's can be very good but we have seen on here when they fall very bad.

I was asked today by a friend who has a grooming business what can be done about a border collie bought from a BYB who is only 7 months old and has severe hip dysplasia. The dog is already on injections a couple times a week. Prognosis: not good. I know of registered breeders who still do not hip score. I know of one breeder who was sued as they had produced a puppy or two with hip dysplasia. Guess what - they now hip score. Breeding from dogs with low or even perfect is no guarantee any puppy will not get it. It hopefully reduces the risk of it happening as you know the history of the line and can make an educated call whether you want to proceed. I had a phone call yesterday from someone enquiring about my litter. She said to me " I don't need papers". I politely explained to her that "papers only cost about $30 each, and more importantly, papers lets a breeder know what has come before and hopefully research what problems is in the line based on what has happened with dogs of similar pedigree. If necessary, to avoid or prevent doubling up on certain dogs to minimise the risk of producing a problem." For some reason some pet people think you pay a lot of money for a pedigree dog because the "papers" is what costs the money????

I know of a breeder who regularly posts unreg litters on a certain free website. What is worse is they are a judge!!!

Not on Ozshow

I had a litter by c-sect on Anzac day. Bitch has now dried up and has 6 one week old puppies. If anyone in Brisbane has available a foster bitch I would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks TT for the tips there. I was thinking of something along those lines maybe needed. Especially after talking to the vets this morning. The wee ones are now gaining decent weight. Mum is starting to dry up (according to the vet probably due to the C-sect and near mastitis). I will be required to feed more regularly and less (to prevent bloat) Sleep is over rated.

The key is to insert the tube, withdraw on the syringe and if you see stomach juices coming up the feeding tube you know you are in the right spot. (I had a Premmie daughter and this is what they do) You then disconnect the syringe, and put on another one without the plunger and the milk flows down the tube. If you use a plunger do not push fast as milk will spill up and an go into the lungs. If you feel/see the puppy struggling you are sucking air out of it's lungs. (I have done this, puppy is now 2) Yep. Pretty much how vet showed me to tube feed. THey said most cases puppies will swallow the tube if you are gentle and if they are, to encourage it. They had me to gently blow in the tube and then listen to see if I heard the lungs as well. They also said before you withdraw the tube, to pinch the end so it does not flush back up and into the lungs

Nothing has changed Janba.

Never heard of that. Am only repeating what three vets down at my local emergency hospital have advised. They will advise tube feeding if it is absolutely necessary (ie: not able/willing to feed from bottle/mum). But advise caution for previous mentioned issues (not to also mention the risk of using a too small a tube and getting in lungs or not withdrawing the tube properly and fluid coming up and going down to lungs). I have taken both puppies down there to try to save them. Unfortunately they were too far gone. The first puppy very quickly came down with sepicaemia within an hour or two - rear pads on feet turning blue and then spreading to belly and the front paws. Within 6 hours the second puppy succombed and detiorated just as quickly as the first. At the moment, the remaining 6 puppies seem unaffected and have been on antibiotic drops.

Sway: Fading Puppy Syndrome Fading Puppy Link 2

Ellz, I have been lucky to never had to tube feed before. Someone sent me some articles on Fading Puppy on Facebook the other day, and even there seems to be a mixed thought on tube feeding vs glucose water. I supped Mia's first litter as she had 11 puppies in there - more due to the numbers than anything else. I have never had fading puppy before either. It has just seemed with this litter, Mia has not been happy from the start. I am weighing pups before and after feeds and have some pretty good digital scales, so I know how much is going in at every bottle feed. I suppose that is what makes this so interesting. Is reading everyone's different thoughts.