Mystiqview

Does anyone showing around you have this brand? I did have an aluminium one awhile ago bought from one of the suppliers who frequent Durack. Pretty cheap and nasty. The aluminium tubing was thinner than others I saw and it really flexed and moved around if the terrain was slightly rough. The ply top and bottom was pretty thin too. But then I only paid $350 or there abouts for it. Some I see are selling for $500 and hopefully are better constructed using stronger aluminium and fittings. It was ok for what it was.. A second trolley when I needed it and I normally used it for pups or one of the better behaved females - never my boy. It was not my main trolley. I know with the one I bought, you could change the wheels on it as the supplier said the wheels that came with the trolley were not very good and supplied replacements. Given I think many are out of China, I think you would have to really check on quality.

I see nothing has changed. I hope yours comes better made than mine did

Another thing to consider: In QLD while it was/is mostly illegal, one vet surgery does do a partial debarking. The dog can still bark but as others have said, it is not has loud or pitched as if the dog had a normal bark. I know from a regulatory officer perspective dealing with barking dog complaints, that some people find the "husky" bark just as offensive as the normal bark. From feedback, it is generally because most who are complaining about the barking are also aware of when a dog is debarked and like some on this forum are against it. I have considered debarking one of mine. I am not against or for it per sae. I can see where in some circumstances an situations it maybe the best or last option open to a person. Just something else to consider. Although in saying this, if you are in a state/area where it is more tolerated, you may not have the same complaint/objection/feedback as what I have outlined above.

I have checked previously with the vets when mine have had conjunctivitis. The general drops from the chemist are ok to use. If you are worried, about this, mild saline is good to keep it clean. Conjunctivitis is easily spread from one eye to another and from one animal to another. Make sure you wash your hands before patting the next dog or even touching your face. Further to what PME said, What you do have to be careful with, is if the cornea has been scratched. I had this once with one of my 4-5 week pups. (EG: Common with small dogs, pups and dogs with bulging eyes. Especially when they are running through bushes/long grass). A certain type of drop should be used. Some drops are not good and should not be used in those circumstances. If this is the case, depending on the severity of the cut, you may see a film over the eye or the tear itself without using dye. If this is also the case, you do need to see a vet ASAP.

Depends on what I am bathing for: General everyday type wash - Fido's Free Itch concentrate. I find bathing in this every fortnight, keeps fleas at bay and I don't have to rely on product for fleas. As I also used to have an Aussie Pooch run, I still have heaps of their herbal shampoos, coaltar, oatmeeal etc. If I am showing, then it can range from an oatmeal herbal shampoo and conditioner, Purple for the whites, Groomers shampoo and conditioner, Cowboy magic......

I normally go to the chemist and get a broad spectrum conjunctivitis eye drop. Put that in for a day or two, if not cleared up, take to the vet.

From memory yes and bitches 12 months at whelping. I do know with some dogs they had not become sexually mature (viable) until they were closer to 10-12 months too. Maybe also can depend on breed/lines

Need a like button!!!!!

You can get them in the inner city suburbs of Brisbane. They do not need to be in "Bush" to get a tick. Native animals are natural hosts to them. So if you have possums, flying foxes, crows, magpies, bandicoots etc, you can still get ticks in your area. And as far as Advantix, Frontline Plus, Preventic and Kill-tick collars. They only assist in prevention. I know of people who have found ticks UNDER a new-ish tick collar. For those who have found "success" you may be lucky. There are plenty who follow the instructions carefully for all the tick preventatives and still end up with their pets at the vet on a drip. One golden rule. Do not mix two green labels together as this is generally the same poison used and you can over dose. Eg: Bayer Kill-Tix Collars, Malaban, Maldacin (both tick washes) and Proban Advantix, Frontline, tick-collars and say for example Fidos Free itch concentrate are all ok to be used in conjunction with each other . Although, washing the dog, regular swims etc will wash off some of the effective ingredient. All these products as I mentioned before ASSIST with the prevention. Depending on your circumstance (eg dog regularly swims or has a paddle pool), the products you put on the coat will be diminished. You should also understand, they all day "UP to 2 weeks, 6 weeks, 3 days etc. Depending on the product used. Remember also, the paralysis to muscle and the damage it can cause, can last longer than what physical symptoms show. It is very important to keep a dog rested for at least 24 hours and not exert themselves for up to a month after the tick paralysis (depending on how bad it is). I have heard some have taken up to 6 months to fully get over a tick paralysis (especially if they are weakened by some other condition). I had a border collie years ago who suffered collapse syndrome. She came down with tick paralysis and took 6 months to fully get over it as the paralysis had affected her lungs. With the Border Collie collapse syndrome (or in some other breeds, Exercise Induced Collapse), her lungs were already weakened.

You can get them in the inner city suburbs of Brisbane. They do not need to be in "Bush" to get a tick. Native animals are natural hosts to them. So if you have possums, flying foxes, crows, magpies, bandicoots etc, you can still get ticks in your area. And as far as Advantix, Frontline Plus, Preventic and Kill-tick collars. They only assist in prevention. I know of people who have found ticks UNDER a new-ish tick collar. For those who have found "success" you may be lucky. There are plenty who follow the instructions carefully for all the tick preventatives and still end up with their pets at the vet on a drip.

Always a good move. Best to get it checked over than to let it get worse. The problem with many cases of tick poisoning, is people find the first one or two, but fail to find any possible remaining ticks and the animal is still getting poisoned. Don't forget by nature they also attack muscle (including heart/lung) and it is important to keep the dog rested and calm for two weeks after a tick poisoning. If there is any sign of poisoning, please keep them rested.

My neighbour, who works for a pet supply company, told me the other day that they were some news going on that something had been developed and should be on the market mid-year next year. Don't know more, but hope it is right and very effective. Can't wait. Did not find any this year, but had one dog treated last year and don't want to go there again. Good luck and quick recovery to the poor affected dogs. I had heard rumour of a vaccine being developed but it is still a few years off yet and still requiring necessary testing etc before it can be released.

Haha.. If you are up around Samford Valley way.. quite possible

Christmas holidays.... School holidays.. pound numbers always increase just before people go away Edit: We had our fair share of oldies and youngin's in the pound I was stationed at (before welfare group took it over)... and we also knew just prior to school holidays, our numbers increased. Even had a few people wishing to leave the dog with us while they went on holidays and were rather candid about it. Others, who did the old or the sick, you knew they were sick of medications, and the accidents or just too stingy to pay a vet to put it to sleep when the council could do it for free.

Mia is "Turd" Faith is Ferral" Blue is "Boo Boo" Pippa is "Horror" or "Pipsqueek"

Thinking of you. I know the pain of dogs at the vets on a drip. Even with my guys still on Proban. We are pulling two-three ticks per day off each dog here. They are checked morning and night without fail. They are mostly nymphs and unfed adult females we are getting. We are in high tick country where I am. Our vets do not rely on any of the products as they are seeing case upon case of tick paralysis from animals with all sorts of treatment. Nothing is 100% effective against them.

hormones.

normally 9 months, although some large breeds do have an older minimum age. Think it is either 12 or 18 months

If you do not mind sending your dog purple/pink for a few days, Try Centrogen Spray (often available at horseland and produce stores). It is an antiseptic, which also includes a fly repellant and have found in some cases, also helps with itch. Potties White Cream (also available from horse/produce stores is also good for healing and promotes skin growth and can reduce scarring. Iodine/Betadine are both also good for all round antiseptic. Betadine is really only a predilute version of Iodine. I get my iodine from either pet store/produce and dilute it down accordingly. It is also much cheaper than betadine.

Antibiotics kill/attack all bacteria. Hence why you often need to keep putting the good ones back into the body when you are taking them. Same goes with humans who are on antibiotics.

Parkeyre Great news. I know plenty of other people whose bitches cycled every 3 to 4 month who whelped normally. I only just had bad luck. The vets had no real idea why she had complete uterine inertia or what possibly caused it. We chose to desex after this as it would almost be guaranteed another C-section if bred again, and I did not think she deserved to be put through it again.

For travelling in the car - look at a harness. The only time I would recommend a harness is for car travel. They can buckle into the normal seat belt clip. If he is crate trained, then I would look at a soft crate. You would want something large enough for him to stand up and be able to turn around.

For bedding with a baby puppy, I use polar fleece. Go down to Spotlight, lincraft etc and buy it by the metre for about $5/m. It is nice and soft, can be nice and warm also and is very light weight. Best of all, if there is a mess, it is VERY easy to wash and clean. By the time the washing machine as spun dried it, it is nearly dry. Whereas blankets and mattresses can take ages to dry. I also do not like to use padded mattresses with baby puppies as they tend to like to chew and if they discover the filling - it is all of a sudden snowing in your place. I will use padded mattresses later on once they learn crate and/or are not real chewers. I agree with the other others regarding wire/PP40/PP20 crate for baby puppy. If in the warmer months, I will put in a well wrung out wet towel in the crate which they can lie on to keep cooler. Once the pup is crate trained, then certainly look for a soft crate for when you are travelling. I personally would not be using a soft crate to secure for travel, as they cannot REALLY be secured nor your pet in them by their pure design in your vehicle. At least with a wire crate, it can be more firmly secured in your car and the animal is much more contained within it.

Um, I can see what you are saying, however in my case, the dogs live outside during the day, and maybe on a weekend while we are home etc be inside with us. Faith's mother also cycled every 4-5 months, whereas her grandmother and great grandmother whom I both owned, cycled every 6 months like clockwork. Also in my case, I know a couple of the bitch's aunts on the sire's side were also 4 month cyclers whereas the bitches on the dam side were all "normal" 6 month cyclers. Maybe also something to look at with genetics and what the relatives of your dogs are doing. Not discounting any individual hormone imbalances etc of course.

I don't see it as 'bad behaviour though', not with LGD's anyway. It's simply what they do. When I say good boy to mine barking, the way I see it, is that Ive acknowledged that they're on to something and I take over from here. It hasn't heightened their barking, it really does work. I've been using this method now after advice from other LGD people and it has really helped over the past year or so. Before, it was excessive and now a quick Good boy stops them and they usually just stand and watch the 'threat' from their initial position or come close to me and watch still. For the SBT and Pug though, I yell out the window STFU and that works pretty darn quick for them :laugh: The SBT is good and comes back straight away but the Pug was raised with MAremmas and fancies himself as a LGD. May have been the way I originally read your post. Sorry. From this explanation, you do pretty much as I do with the collies. I acknowledge the bark and then they are quiet. But as Steve said, it also comes down to tone and timing of praise etc.