Mystiqview

I read the measurements to be 120 to be the width (across the car) and the 140/150 to be the length (from top of back seat to the top behind driver). The attachment straps where you attach to the child restraint points and over the headrest are adjustable and there are two D rings at either end of the mat so you can take as much slack up as you need to. I preferred to have the back seat buddy come as far as behind the driver as possible to stop drips, drools and also to prevent them from thinking they can come between the two front seats and sit on my lap. (They were restrained of course, but when you have a dobermann, he can still get his head between the two front seats and wash your ears for you. My male BC can do the same while still being restrained in the back). Having a larger dog with no feather "protection" around the claws, I would be going for what is most durable and less likely to rip and wear due to claws. The fleece may be more comfortable and stop them from sliding on the canvas, however it is not as strong and tough as canvass and may wear more quickly. That was where I used to still throw a towel or some blanket over the top for comfort, and rely on the back seat buddy to catch the sand and dirt and also protect the seats if the dog decided to vomit (which can happen from time to time). I also found the canvass much easier to wipe off if there was a small accident in the back. You still had to clean it properly when you got home, but if out, it only needed a wipe over to get by until it could be cleaned properly. From memory, the correct sizing does not reach all the way to the edge of the seats. It leaves a small gap to what I could call the wings of the backrest of the seat. I preferred mine to wrap up a little at the sides, so if there is any mess (dirt or other) was contained within.

You want to measure from the top of your headrest down to about level with the back seat, over to the back of back seat then up again to the top of the back seat. That is your length. It would depend also how far you would like the back seat buddy to come up behind your front seats... I used to have mine as a real hammock and using the seat as main support. The only gap was that between the back seat and where I positioned the front seats over the footwell. Rather than keeping the back seat buddy from hanging off the back seat itself. If the width from door to door is 130 cm then I would say at least go with medium as from that link I posted, the width of the medium is 130cm. That will stop sand from sliding of the edges and down between the seat and the door where it is near impossible to vacuum back up. The canvas material is much firmer/stiffer and also provides a semi water resistant surface. Hence why I would recommend it over the fleece version if your dog visits the beach regularly. Remember you also have to be able to clean the fleece and fleece does not like to be washed and has to be steam cleaned, whereas the canvas is much more wash and wear and more likely more durable. You would also be able to shake the sand out much more easily than what you can from fleece. If you need to put a towel down or as I said I used to put down old sheepskin car seat covers for plushness. These also can be pulled out if a dog vomits or washed and shaken as needed be. The back seat buddy kept my seats clean and caught any dirt/sand etc from getting into the upholstery of the car.

I had the red canvas one. The back is a polypropelene type material and is quite stiff. The canvas part is using a stiff canvas and it is also padded and quilted. I had Dobermanns at the time and I think I only just was getting into borders. I got mine when they first came out. The layers of fabric and the quality of fabric they used kept its shape pretty well. There is 10cm difference in width between small and medium (5cm per side) and 10cm per side for the large. I think from memory and those who have them now, can probably confirm this, the one I had when I had the falcon only just made it to each end of the vehicle. Also, I think if you are visiting the beach regularly, you would want it to fold up around the edges a bit as well to stop the sand from falling down to the side of the seats. I did not find with claws it did pick at the quilting a little, but I had mine many years before selling it. The rear fits to the baby seat attachment and the front goes over the and "hangs" off the headrest. I never had a problem with it sagging. I never had the cheap ones, so could not comment with those.

Found this link which has measurements: Kumalong Online Store Size Dimensions Price Small 120x140cm $245.00 Medium 130x140cm $265.00 Large 140x140cm $285.00 X-Large 150x140cm $305.00 Jumbo 150x150cm $330.00

Falcon's are considered to be a large-ish vehicle. I just went to their website and they said X-Large for a Falcon. I now have a Toyota Duel Cab and it recommends a medium. It's a pity there are no actual dimensions of the sizing on their website. That way you could at least measure and decide if a medium or large would be too big and if so by how much. If it is too wide, then this can be a good thing as well, as it will also fold up the doors a bit - protecting them from scratches. It would also depend on how big a car you would be looking at upgrading to and how long down the track. I notice there is also only $20 difference between the small and medium and $40 to a large and over $300 not a big difference. I would look at least a medium then or see if you can find physical dimensions of each size. ETA: I would not get the fleece one..... Get the canvas one - if your dog is wet, they wear much better than fleece and are easy to care for. If you want plush - you can throw an old sheepskin car seat cover over it or other blankets.

I used to have one before getting a ute. I had the large as at the time I had a falcon. I would probably go with that as they are more versatile. They used to also unzip in the middle so you can use half if you wish. The top also unzips from the bottom so it makes it easier to wash and the fabric is that much stronger and thicker.

I know of many rear windows in cars and utes that get shattered from trailers. Next time you see a camper trailer - have a look a the stone shield that is often attached to the draw bar to deflect stones down. Same as you will often see stone flaps attached to the rear of the towing vehicle and another is a shade cloth type screen that attaches to both the towing vehicle and trailer for the same purpose. I have smashed the rear window in my ARB Canopy - that is because a tree jumped out behind me at Durack. I think also the side windows and rear window in the car is also safety glass and not laminate..... same thing will happen if a rock is thrown up against those.

Haven't had one disappear yet on me. That is for sure. It certainly sounded strange at the time. But given the info came from a supposed industry professional, you tend to want to believe that info. Oh well I am glad I was useful for a face plant at least

The class was told that from Adobe accredited trainer when I did my Photoshop CS4 Advanced course. So my information was supposedly from industry.????

Printing always firstly depend on the quality of the picture and resolution. It is further influenced by how far you wish to blow it up. A reduced resolution and size can not be blown up as something at full resolution. So if you are sending anything to an online place either send in the full resolution image or a disk containing the image you want printed. Jpegs will lose resolution each time you open them. It is there fore recommended as soon as you download the image to the computer is to first save the original files to disk. In this way, constant opening and closing the file will to cause loss. You will sometimes refer to 12 jpg as a "lossless" file. Other lossless formats are bitmaps and tiff files. Lastly monitor calibration and printer quality will influence the quality of a picture being printed. A home inkjet will not compare with a commercial photo printer or even some laser printers. Hope this helps. Any photo lab specialising in image portraits should be able to print your picture for you with good quality expected.

If you bought from qld. Did the breeder make you fill in or sign a "limited register agreement" form. To place puppies on this register all new owners must sign this form stating they understand what the limited register is and agree to have the pup registered there. If you did not sign such a form, then either the breeder has done it on your behalf ( very wrong) or something else is amiss. In QLD we can register puppies straight into the new owners name. Whereas other states they are first registered into the breeders name and then need to be transferred to the new owner. In my experience in buying puppies from NSW it is at my expense to transfer. Because of this, sometimes breeders will wait until all the puppies are sold before sending the litter registration to Dogs Queensland. This is so they do not have to pay a registration and later a transfer fee. The average turn around for papers in Dogs Queensland is between 10-14 business days. The papers are sent back to the breeder to check and then they mail it to the puppy owners. If you feel if you have been scammed, the ring Dogs Queensland and see firstly if the breeder is registered and secondly if Dogs Queensland have received the litter registration. The vet certificate you received for fit to fly is a new requirement by airlines. (Especially Qantas alrhough i think Virgin are now also requiring it) I believe it is due to dehydration in young puppies. I have had to get one of these certificates recently when I sold a puppy to Tas. At the top of the pedigree paper it will also tell you if the animal is on the "Limited Register" if the word Limited is at the top of the certificate then it is limit and cannot be bred with or shown. If the pedigree paper you received for the Sire has that, then the pups will not be registered and she is only breeding "purebred" pups and not pedigree puppies. It is surprising you have no documentation from the dam. If she is tested, then you should also receive copies of that paperwork. Copies of the sire/dam pedigree is all you will get and this is fine. You do not need it if your pup is registered as it will have that detail on it. The dam may not be tested. Not the first time a breeder used a health tested dog and won't bother to pay to health test their dam - especially if the dog is clear for any required health tests and has good hip/elbow scores. Testing costs money and that eats into their "profits". Best to use other dogs who have had someone else pay for the testing. If I was paying $1500 for any dog of any breed regardless of whether it was the norm price or not, I would be making sure all the health tests were done and the it is all legit.

I supply a toxic food and plant list in my puppy pack with all puppies that leave me. Of course the list may not be a 100% complete, but it does certainly include the most common foods and plants to be wary of. The plant document also has photographs of the plants in and out of flower.

My sisters vet told her not to feed bones or raw meat to her dog till it is 6 months, so not necessarily a stupid question. I told her to do it anyway, she has a large dog who gets bored so easily. Some big bones kept it chewing for ages. Environmental enrichment is the best boredom buster ever and is the reason I love pigs heads. I personally would not feed hard bones (marrowbones, hard beef bones) until the puppy has got its adult canine teeth around 6 months as these bones can break them much more easily. But even this does not stop puppies from breaking their teeth on other items in the back yard. I can possibly see too much fat may not be good (for any dog), but everything in moderation. I prefer to feed softer chicken or lamb brisket. As for not feeding raw meat.... still crazy. My vet has those packets of for the like VIP dog meats in the cryovac packets in their refrigerator in their reception.

What a stupid question??? Not to the OP but the person who told you not to feed raw meat to dogs! I will never feed my dogs pets mince - the stuff is eeek and you just don't know what else the butcher has put in it. (EG: cereals/fillers etc left over from making sausages etc) Do you see mamma dog out in the wild sitting by a fire and a kettle cooking the meat before giving it to the puppies???? I start my puppies on raw meat/mince as well as premium food + milk replacer at 3 weeks when I start the weaning process. Then they get chicken necks and other goodies once they learn they can CHEW! Sometimes I think people humanise their pets way to much.

Best of luck with him. :)

SG, I don't think either Dancinbcs or myself have yet slammed any breeder in particular and no kennel names were mentioned. I don't know where CC has gotten their puppy from, but I do hope they have done careful research on breeders, the standard and have not been ripped off by paying extortion amounts for a merle (or any other colour for that matter). There is a colleague at work who bought a blue/white or lilac/white bc from a registered (colour) breeder. That dog is currently on death row due to a serious heart murmur costing the owners thousands of dollars. The pup may not survive the next two weeks. Because it was a "rare" colour they paid extra and have now had to deal with the bad health and expensive surgery to correct this. The pup is only 9 months old. It really irks a lot of breeders (show politics aside) of some of these breeders breeding colour without any consideration for the health, temperament and breed standard. Colour and the money they can make is more important than producing quality healthy puppies. Whether the breeder of CC's pup falls into this category, I don't know. I hope not. Personally I don't care who the breeder is... if they are not breeding for health, temperament, and correct structure, then they should not be breeding. If they are breeding for "pets" then they should be making sure those pets are still healthy and are of quality. On the whole, some of the breeders who are breeding for colour, really need to clean up their act a lot. It is through education and topics like this, that we can hopefully educate other readers and not just the OP, what things they need to look out for and not be suckered in by the sugar coated tongues of some of these "breeders". The photos I posted were from a QLD website outside of Victoria where the OP is situated.

I was talking about solids. No one mentioned anything about merles and the number of what I call well bred merles is very, very few. I could almost count the actual dogs on one hand and have only ever seen 3 in the showring here. Most merles come from coloured puppy farmers who breed only for colour, not quality. Regardless of the fact that a lot of merles do lack pigment the breed standard still says "The nose colour in all dogs will be a solid colour with no pink or light pigment, and shall complement the background colour of the dog." Agree. Merle has fast become a fad "colour" in BC's and with any of the fads people are being ripped off accordingly. There are some very questionable breeders breeding the merle to any thing without taking into consideration the breed standard at minimum. In some cases I have seen near all pink noses with very little pigmentation at all even up to an adult. I have also seen an increasing amount of excess white being produced and in some cases, all white heads and excess body white. In a couple of cases, deaf puppies being produced. I would personally stay clear of any breeder breeding merle to red/white. I know of one case of a merle to merle litter being bred from genetic merle parents and producing deaf puppies. Have also seen by the same colour breeders, an increase in lack of nose pigmentation in their solid colours. Especially in a black/white puppy, the nose should be solid by 6 weeks. Red/white puppies can take a little longer to pigment up, but again, should be solid by 8 weeks. Not acceptable: Puppy: Juvenile Adult:

Prestige do not make a bad pin brush for price. About $21 for large oval. Have a look at dog grooming essentials in Brisbane as well. I do not like the PP hedgehog brush. Their old design was much better. Their current range are too soft for a BC. With curved scissors. You either love them or hate them. I have both. I have had problems keeping an edge on my curves though. You can also buy round tips if you are a bit squeamish about pointed ends.

Good sturdy Pin brush - try looking at one of the show suppliers at a dog show. I don't particularly like the ruddocks or grip soft ones. The kong "Zoom grooms" but they are better to help get the dead coat out providing there are not dreds and knots A nice wide come will help with the pantaloons The undercoat rakes are pretty good, but do watch how hard you press on these as they can scratch the skin. A good coat detangler is also good and helps prevent splitting the hair. At worse, you can use a dollop of conditioner in a spray bottle of water and shake it all up Slicker brush to finish Sturdy bristle brushes are also good During the coat drop period, regular weekly warm water baths. Do not need to use soap each time, the warm water does help to blow the coat more quickly and a good blow dry after. Shampoo and conditioners: Up to you mostly as there are so many now available on the market. I use Fido's free itch as my general use shampoo. Mainly because of fleas and ticks where I am and I find a regular bath in Fido's does help control fleas here saving me on flea products. My fave's Paws sensitive skin is also nice I also like the Petway brand of Oatmeal Shampoo and Conditioner - nice smelling and is also gentle on coats/skin LOVE the Groomers Royal Jelly Shampoo and Tropical conditioner I would be careful of Tea tree shampoos as these can be quite drying to the hair and skin. Even fidos can be drying to some coat types. Furminators and coat kings - some pet stores love to sell these two products. Problem is they cut the coat as they get pulled through. Used incorectly, they will strip the top coat making it look all horrible. Don't like them at all

Mating on a slight hill can be useful too. I have had bitches flag for three days prior, and they are not really ready. Just being tarts. Sounds like he is just keen and eager and loses his head too soon. Maybe get a stud master in to assist.

Jules P PM if you want ped

I know. Not from a sporting kennel. Just colour

Yes, when I heard Lilac... I inwardly groaned. But thank you for the info. Will pass it on.

Jules P. As far as I am aware from talking to them on Friday afternoon - No they are not. I will find out more when I see them next. They asked me what I knew anything of a problem in the line and heart murmurs in general in BCs. I told them I would see what I could find out about heart murmurs in BCs as I did not think it was a up there breed problem. After having health problems with their last rescue adopted dog (don't know the details), they thought this time they would go with a "respected" registered breeder. And are a bit overcome by it all right now with the dog may or may not pulling through.

Thanks for the replies. It is not something I am familiar with and experienced in my animals and it is not something commonly talked about within the breed. The pedigree is certainly interesting and there are some dogs that do raise the eye brows on other issues. It was more a question to those who have heart issues in their breed. I hope for the pups owners they are not left heartbroken and it makes a full recovery.