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Alot of breeders do charge different prices between thier pet (limited) and main (show) puppies, i don't know if a thousand is exactly right, but i have heard of it, especially if it is a bitch that is going to be for breeding and or showing. Your not just paying for the actual piece of paper (which as someone said is around $35) but rather the difference in the quality of the pups, any importing arrangements, etc, etc. After all a dog on main papers must be of a higher quality to show and breed from. However, you do not mention whether you mean that the person is paying extra for a main register dog, or for a piece of paper at all. As someone above said 'registered' could mean a registered business. Unless the person selling the pup has a prefix issued by a state controlled canine body, and a member of that body (in NSW it's Dogs NSW) and have had thier litter registered and can provide the right documentation then they are not what is commonly referred to on here as a registered breeder. If that is the case, then they are just bull dusting the whole situation. I have seen people buy puppies and be provided with 'papers' that were simply typed up on the person's computer with somewhat made up dogs names, and other quite fancy looking documents that were inked in calligraphy, both of which are not pedigree papers.

Hey it took me ages to work this out but this is how ive done the last four entries for my co-owns. On the Surname side you put Surname 1/Surname 2 and then on the other name you put for example Miss Initial & Mrs Initial. And remember to use the co-own number on the certificate, not YOUR number on your card.

I agree with this completely!!!! Also it would just be interesting to know how many dogs were actually there, but i can't think of a way they could do this and keep thier numbering system. I have seen shows that have had high entries meet with weather problems and dogs getting high points based on entries that were withdrawn or absent. I just don't know how they could solve the problem considering the numbers are based on the catalogue numbers. And RUBOB should definately get points.

I don't own chinese cresteds but have had this conversation with a few people about powderpuffs. I am definately no expert on cresteds, but am naturally curious. If they are genetically the same (I understand they can be born in the same litter, and just carry extra hair genes) then wouldn't one or the other be considered a fault. I know neither are, and have seen many shown, but am wondering if maybe they should be either split into two types of crested or the breed standard refined. I have heard for breeding purposes that the puffs are important and vital to keep the hair coming through at all on the hairless, so im not really sure what the answer is. But id be curious to see what everyone thought. After all you would never see two coat types allowed in many other breeds, unless in fact they are split i.e short and long coated chi's/ smooth and rough collies, etc yet the cresteds to have two and from what entourage says maybe more coat types allowable in the show ring. I myself have seen the difference in the coat types of the puffs from thick and covering the whole of the body with veil, to splotchy and thin with small blotches of skin still hairless. So, I would be interested how the differing coats can all be considered 'correct' and at a genetic level how the hairless and the puffs can be shown as one breed, if in fact they are genetically the same.

I have heard alot of breeders say the same thing. With one of our other dogs, something about it caught the breeder's eye from the moment he emerged from the womb. She almost sold him as a pet, as promised to someone on her list (a list of eight but the bitch only had 2) but when it came time she just believed that he should be shown. Along came us, and now he is an Aust Ch.

thank you for your response, we are seeing them at six and eight weeks, so i will do as you advise!!! We have done that with all our other dogs, and so far our choices have been fairly successful, not only as show dogs, but as part of our family.

Just to clarify, (as always on Dogzonline Forums lol!!!) we're not picking the 'one' puppy only from photos of the pup at one day old!!! that would just be ridiculous and insane to think a breeder, or someone showing a dog would do so. Although the breeder does believe in the 'right from birth' theory that not only her but a few other breeders I know also follow. After all dogs can be excluded by markings, etc, etc, and alot of the times that catches your eye at birth may just be the next little champion. the breeder has two pups that we can choose from that she believes may be alright from what she has seen at home. The bitch had six pups - five bitches and one dog. We are after a bitch so that narrows it down to five. It doesn't bother us on colour, but some of the pups already have obvious and exclusionary mismarks, leaving two. Obviously that may change as the pups grow and develop and go through thier health test. She will continue to send us weekly, if not daily (as she has done so far) updates on thier progress, and we will see the pups in the flesh at six and eight weeks. I was just curious what everyone looks for when picking thier show pup, and how YOU decide. Maybe that will give us some helpers, because at this stage we are excited about potentially getting a new pup that not only joins our show team but that also complements our breeding program. The pedigree of the pups is an almost perfect match to our current dogs. We are of course in constant communication with the pup's breeder, and are listening to her advice, but in the end it is our decision. So, when your choosing your show pups, how do YOU decide? What things do you think are important/not important? What factors do you consider?

Congratulations!!!

Im just curious how people on here go about picking thier pups if they have a choice between more than one in a litter? We have been offered another dog from a breeder that we have another dog from, and she has sent us through some pic's of the pups at a day old, and will continue to send us through photos until we make a decision on if one of them is the right one. After looking at the photos and doing a whole heap of research, comparing of photos, etc, etc, we are paitently waiting and watching to see what happens, so how do you go about picking out the 'one'. Edited to add: the puppy is a show potential puppy, so i suppose my question is more geared towards picking a pup for showing/breeding purposes.

it sounds to me as if your puppy is very well balanced and comfortable with his surrondings. i wouldn't describe the behaviour you describe as shy but rather cautious and for a puppy his age that is perfectly ok. I have nothing against vet nurses (my sister is a vet nurse, but sometimes the ones that run the puppy pre-schools aren't even fully trained yet) but sometimes they don't know everything!!!

YES!!! we make puppies to dependant on us from day one, and I think it just confuses the poor pup. From day one for all our dogs they were treated as they will be for the rest of thier long lives with us. No time off work, and sleeping in a crate from night one. I think it's important to not lavish a puppy in a manner that is not going to continue past day one. I find it so hard not to spoil a puppy on day one, after all it is a tough day for the little one, but each time I think of it, I think to myself - NO, I will just create an expectation that I cant hope to maintain. It's like making a promise you can't keep, and only creates anxiety for the poor little things. I don't think we need to hold off affection and praise completely, but I do think smothering a puppy and being there for it 24/7 in the first week is only creating problems for yourself and the puppy. But I may have different ideas of affection - like a long walk together, like training times, being proud of my pups achievements, travelling together, taking to an off leash area like a beach and even simple things like feed time. I also believe that puppies should not be sheltered from things they are going to face as adults. Like, if they are going to be outside dogs as adults they shouldn't spend thier puppy years inside, or if they are going to be crated for sleep time then they do it from day one. Then I think the puppy learns what you expect and doesn't get confused and frustrated about thier place and role in the world..

What is wrong with Supercoat? My vet said it was fine to feed them. Is it just not as high end as science diet ect There is nothing wrong with supercoat. I used to feed it to my lot, and they loved it, grew well and became champions!!! When i wanted to upgrade to something a bit more high market, with less fillers and more of the better ingredients it was a nightmare. I tried EVERYTHING. We went through thousands of dollars through every brand Pro Plan, Advance, Science Diet, Eukanuba, etc, etc, and they all went on hunger strikes at different stages, and licked the canned food off it, to the point that one of the boys lost 2 kgs. We now feed Black Hawk and they like it, but last week when we were running low we mixed it up with some Supercoat and they gobbled it up like it was a last supper. I try and feed my dogs the highest premium dog food i can afford and at this time it's Black Hawk, and i will try everything i can to keep them on such a great food, but if my circumstances change, I will have to go back to the Supercoat. I dislike people being snobby about what other people feed thier dogs. 20 years ago there were no premium foods, and EVERYTHING had fillers such as soy, wheat, etc in them and breeders and owners had to had thier own substitues to them if they so pleased. Thier dogs survived. Although I believe a high premium food with all the benefits and fantastic ingredients Black Hawk includes in it is right for my dogs, and my situation it may not suit everyone and i will never look down or judge anyone for what they feed thier dogs. After all I know all of my dogs bluntly refused to eat some of the higher premium brands but would not get laughed at for trying them. Plus Supercoat does include a variety of additives that make it probably one of the better options for around $20 a bag. To the OP, find the one that your dogs like, or even better love. I know I'm about to be laughed at, I feed my Black Hawk with a small amount of the No Name Canned Dog Food (I jokingly call it 'crap in a can' - if it's chicken flavoured, then its 'chicken crap in a can' etc etc) I use just enough to entice the dogs to finish eating all the dry food because I know that's were all the nutrients are. I have found no evidence of worse farts and after all before that I had tried human grade mince (expensive but good), roast chicken (too expensive to continue but the dogs loved it, but they would eat the chicken and then leave half the dry food) various roo and other pet minces (found small pieces of bones in a variety of brands, plus the dogs did as they did with the chicken) other canned foods (dogs turned thier noses up at, especially the puppies, who would eat one flavour for a couple of nights and then refused to eat) and then every dog roll that Coles, Pet Barn, etc sold and they would eat it only without the dry AGAIN, so when I tried the No Name varieties I was sceptical, but I found that it coated the dry food better than anything else (probably because of the gelatin) and made them eat more dry food than they did with anything else. So, just try and find one your dogs like to eat. Supercoat does have additives to it (such as Vitamins, Omega 3, etc) so if you can get them to eat something that encourages them to eat thier dry food, good on you. Good Luck with it, and don't worry, each person's dogs are different and what other's enjoy other's may not!!!!

Give the guy a break, he didn't advertise the name of his business, a phone number or a website, only his name, and age. There is a show and trials guide on DOGS NSW.

I won't vote because im north of the border. But although twilight shows seem like a great idea, i have attended a few of them and found the following problems. One, if you don't live close to the showground, (like we don't, we live an hour and a half away) a show that starts at 5 or 6 pm means that we don't get back from Sydney until 1:30am, 2:00am most times. Secondly, when its not a beautiful night it can be freezing. Last week we had a twilight show at Erskine Park and we were all bundled up in jackets, freezing, waiting for our turn. While i can understand the benefits (when it is hot, a night show is alot cooler than standing around during the day) it is only really beneficial for the people that live close to the show grounds, and once again the people away from the main showgrounds not only miss out on a show, if they do go it will be early hours of the morning before they return home. I think a heat policy should be developed, but as I understood it, there already is one (Im not sure but i have seen notices like: if the temp on the ABC weather report is more than 38 show will start earlier) and i think that's a better way to do it. You will probably all yell at me, but then again you all probably live fairly close (within an hour or two) of one of the showgrounds. When its any further it really restricts the country people who want to get home hopefully while its still dark I have seen this discussion in other forums, and i have noticed that alot of the people that have been showing for 30 years or more, have always shown in the heat and have had ways of managing thier dogs on hot days. I also like the early starts because then your home at a reasonable hour.

that's not considering the amount of money the op has paid over the life of the insurance payment while the dog was alive. A very rough working out by me puts the op at paying around $1300 over the life of his insurance payment including the extra payments, so they are definately worse off. I HATE insurance companies. They are schemers and have so many exclusions and ways out of paying things that the average person can just not concieve. I agree with you too, that it is wrong. Considering your pet died in October, when if you started your policy in Sept 09, the beginning of your year would be Sept 2011, it is only one month into the next year. Surely rather than you paying 11 months of a years policy that your dog is in no way going to use, is wrong. Im sorry for your loss, and im sorry that some corporate body intends to compound your loss by making you have to deal with this.

I know that sometimes people make up excuses but i have been in the unfortunate situation of having to surrender a pet. It was when i was quite young and my dad was in the air force. We had been in the same house for 9 years and had three show dogs. We were posted over 1500 kms away in a place that we couldn't take all our dogs. We were allowed to keep two. So we went through the heartbreaking experience of leaving one of ours behind. It was not an "excuse" and caused us much pain. I know that rescuers hear it all the time, but please realise that sometimes some people have no choice. It is either survive themselves or give up thier dog. I know that not all situations are the same, but i believe that sometimes people have no other choice.

Yes Please! We can never get enough Julie have started k-nitting!!!!

Does anyone know who got BIS, or any of the in show awards at Erskine Park on Tuesday night. It was really late (12:30pm) by the time toy group had finished and we still had a two hour drive home so i didn't stay to see in show. Does anyone know any results?

is this still happening? i would love to start knitting some squares if it is!!! ive got some left over baby wool from a blanket i was making for my yet to be born neice! (due June next year)

a tibbie and im feeding black hawk

Hi all. I was wondering if anyone has experience with any of the coat enhancing products that are on the market. I have a five and half month old that has just blown ALL her coat!!!! With all our other show dogs we haven't used anything, just gone through the uglies paitently. But i was wondering if anyone has used any coat growth product and what thier experience with it was, what the best one was, etc, etc. She has really really blown everything and is pretty much bald.

Umm some puppies and dogs do. Some entertain themselves by barking excessively, digging up the yard or irrigation, ripping up trees and shrubs and bedding etc. There is no way my dog would cope with being alone for normal working hours. She never sleeps during the day and is a massive busy body, who would find her own fun if it wasn't provided for her. If we're away longer than 4 hours during the day we have to get a dog walker for her. Luckily someone is usually home or else I am able to take her to work with me. My pups and dogs (all six of them) sleep the day away!!! They make such a fuss when we leave, and we were concerned that they were frantic the whole time we weren't at home. We put up some cameras, just out of interest, and found that the second the car pulls out of the driveway they all relax, and then sleep away, occassionally getting up to have a drink of water, or go to the toilet, but even that was pretty rare. It must be hard for you to have an anxious dog that you know isn't particularly happy at home alone, i was stressing over my lot until the cameras, i couldn't imagine how hard it would be to have to have someone at home everytime i had to go out - or if i didn't i would be stressing out wondering what they were doing, if they were hurting themselves, etc. Lucky You - you can take her to work! Wish all workplaces were so progressive! Or if you had two dogs the same age that had grown up with each other, maybe they could keep each other company while you were out, they could play the day away without being destructive.

Are you serious? Apart from the fact that it means double the time, double the mess, double the commitment, double the costs and double the work (probably even more so when it comes to training), two puppies are very likely to bond more strongly with each other than the handler, that in itself is a major problem. Be glad you waited a year, your 12 month old hasn't even matured yet! True we do have a wonderful bond with Bear which I hope will never be broken. I just felt sorry for him as he had a year of being alone while we were at work. But I'm sure the games and antics they will get up to in the future will make up for it Thank you for commenting on getting the two puppies together, I have all this negative feed back from people not only on this site but others who say I have lost my marbles, I am an older person who does not have anything apart from the usual housework to do, partner is away through the week, these pups are my liferaft, keeping me sane. Don't worry, i have two pups of the same age as well. Well, there a month apart. I know everyone goes on and on about how horrible it is, but i have had no problems at all. Both my pups are bonded to me and each other, behave almost perfectly and are happily toilet trained. Yes it is double the work but i have the time, energy and effort needed to care for double trouble. I am also happy because they have each other to play with, and sleep with, and not have to be segregated from the bigger dogs until they are old enough to play with them. Our two boys were a year apart, and we even had a small injury from the older one playing to rough with the new pup. As for your initial problem about the toilet training, i have crate trained mine, and at 5 months i have had no accidents inside the house, or the crate. In the beginning i would take them out half an hour after every meal, whenever they woke up, and after a long play session. I think that EVERY half an hour is a bit excessive, but i can only speak from my own experience. After a few weeks they would both sit at the gate and let me know when they needed to go out, and still do to this day. I know you said she had access to the yard at all times, maybe that might be the problem. Maybe for a week or so limit her access to the yard to when you are taking her out to the toilet that way she associates the backyard with toileting, and not with playing. The whole crate theory is based on the fact that dogs will not go in thier home/area. My pups won't even go in thier play run, so maybe they see the yard as part of thier space as well. I don't know if it will help, its just a thought, hope all goes well. And don't let anyone make you think your crazy. As long as your pups are healthy, happy, and well cared for and recieve all the love, attention and veterinary care they require, and your not going round the bend, i don't care how many dogs you have of the same age!

hi all, One of my puppies is going up into minor next month (where has the time gone????) and im just wondering if the level of behaviour and ring skills much different to that expected of baby puppy? When i first started everyone told me to 'not stress out, it's only baby puppy' when i was concerned about particular behaviours (ie not walking a whole triangle without bouncing, sitting on the grass in the line up, etc, etc). Im not saying her behaviour is shocking, she has done really really well at the bp level, even winning a few sweepstakes and group ribbons, but im just wondering does it all change when they go up into minor and become eligible for challenge.

We travel with our 3 CKCS all the time. <br><br>Is she crate trained already? Ours are quite happy to sit in thier crates for the journey, but they have been doing it since they were babies (it took us 10 hours to come home from thier breeders lol) They travel alot for shows so thier used to at least an hour journey but if the trip is a long one we give them a long lasting treat to keep them occupied and for the younger ones they always have at least one toy in thier crate. <br><br><br>My only other advice is to just remember to exercise, water and toilet her regularly. We just stop at the truck stops/rest areas and walk ours on lead around. They have a sniff around, toilet and exercise. We stop about every 2-3 hours, but usually they are more than happy to let us know if they need to get out, and we are happy to oblige. <br><br><br>Why were you particularly looking for fenced dog parks? We usually use long leads on our trips and that works fine.<br><br>If she is coping with two hour trips i can't imagine that you'd have much trouble. Other than that if possible, and only if possible, if you are leaving later in the day give her a chance to exercise or take her for a walk before you go. I find that the less energy they have the happier they are to sleep the time away!!!! But if your leaving early in the morning its a bit harder. <br><br>Merry Christmas and Happy travels to you and your precious one!!!<br>