Miranda

Saturate the stains with bicarbonate of soda mixed with water, leave for 15 minutes, rinse out and then shampoo as normal, as poodlefan says the PP Whitening shampoo is very good.

I take my dogs to a park, but it's not specifically for dogs, we don't have leash free parks in this shire, dogs can be off lead anywhere providing they're under effective voice control. Anyway it's a huge park, probably about 50 acres and if you don't want to meet another dog you can easily avoid them, in fact during the week there aren't many dogs there at all. I would never take my dog to any of the smaller off leash parks in other suburbs, as others have already said there are too many morons and too many out of control dogs and in a small area all the dogs are right on top of one another, an accident waiting to happen IMO.

Actually engine oil and grease are extremely difficult to get out of the coat, ordinary shampoos don't have any effect. I had one of my dogs at a friend's place a few weeks ago while her son was doing some work on his car and of course he lay down on an oily rag and got it all over himself. I ended up washing him in neat dishwashing liquid and even then it took two attempts. I would imagine that washing the dog in detergent on a regular basis would be highly detrimental to his coat.

You're not wrong, that's exactly what I meant

All my dogs are confined at night, I have five dogs here and can't afford to have dogs being noisy while neighbours are trying to sleep. None of my dogs make a sound, you may find that crating the dog or locking it in the laundry will solve your problem.

I disagree, no offence to your breeder/vet, but I am yet to meet a vet who knows anything more than the basics of dog nutrition, I'm sure they exist, but they certainly aren't the norm. You cannot possibly compare the GI tract of a canine with that of a human, there is no similarity at all. The teeth, the saliva, the time food remains in the stomach, the strength of the stomach acids and the actual length of the intestines are all totally different, a dog has a carnivore's digestive system which is designed to deal with flesh and bones. That's not to say that they cannot deal with any carbohydrate, but they do have problems processing large amounts which is why cheap dry foods that are full of fillers and have a high cereal content will produce large amounts of poo and occasionally diarrhoea in some dogs. You will also have to feed twice as much as the nutrition derived from the grain content of the food is minimal. A dog is not designed to process carbohydrate whereas we humans deal with starches very well and diets containing large amounts of fibre (roughage) are actually beneficial, in fact humans who consume minimal amounts of fibre are actually predisposing themselves to a variety of diseases including cancer of the bowel. Fur, feathers and other 'rubbish' are still parts of an animal and are not carbohydrate, I doubt that you will ever see a wild dog grazing in a wheat field or trying to raid a silo. If the OP wishes to feed a dry food as the basis of her dog's diet then I would recommend Eagle Pack Holistic or Nutro, personally I have never found an Australian product that gives the same results as either of the aforementioned products.

I have five dogs here and not one of them would be at ease in a situation such as you describe, they are large dogs, but none of them would happily accept a number of unknown 'happy chappys' attempting to sniff their rears as they walk through the gate into a dog park. I think you will find that a lot of dogs would behave in exactly the same way. Your dog is small and has been previously attacked so it is even worse for him. I think you'll find that he'll be much happier just being walked on his own or with dogs that he knows

Oh right, sorry for the misunderstanding However please don't patronise pet stores that sell puppies or kittens

Pet stores know next to nothing about animals, your breeder would be the best person to ask for advice.

Andoria, her OH and surprisingly the dog as well are quite happy with this 'trainer' according to the thread in General Dog Discussion and it would appear that they are going to continue using her methods

Don't slam the door on your way out

I have already recommended that Andoria take her dog to K9 Force who is a reputable accredited dog trainer and behaviourist. Of course I care about the dog, far more than I care about Andoria and her 'trainer' that's for sure. BTW don't you dare imply that I was one of the people 'who went too far with the trainer', I can take a lot of s**t, but I won't put up with people casting aspersions on my integrity. .

Don't be a smarty pants ausdogsx6, however upset she was that's no excuse for coming on here and calling DOL members 'f*****g idiots'. Anyway whatever abuse the 'trainer' received I'm sure it wasn't as harsh as the abuse she meted out to the poor dog. This so called 'trainer' is dangerous. If she's sucking in gullible members of the general public and subjecting their dogs to these oldfashioned and barbaric methods of training, methods which, if used on certain dogs could trigger unprovoked aggression, then as far as I'm concerned it's about time someone set her straight. There are way too many charlatans involved in training dogs these days and she's one of them.

That's fine. People are not my primary care............its the dogs. I don't think Haven's post was directed at you Lablover

Vickie I was also alarmed by the 'My dog has always been a biter' statement and I think that your suggestion that Andoria purchase those books is a good one. I just hope that she follows your recommendations because she's never taken any notice of the advice offered to her in previous topics regarding this dog. I gather from her posts that it's not only Andoria who has to be convinced, but her OH as well.

K9 Force has a long distance training package available which is specifically aimed at training your dog to walk on a loose lead. ETA I see you're in Newcastle, maybe you could pay him a visit.

OMG what an awful thing to happen Are they sure it was caused by some sort of toxin? It couldn't have been heat stroke could it, the symptoms are similar and it does cause intravascular clotting and haemorrhaging. If she was tearing around for 10 minutes in high temperatures that would be enough to cause it.

I just checked out the Purdue site ML and it said that foods containing citric acid that were moistened by the owner were a risk factor. I don't know why moistening the food makes a difference, but apparently it does.

Yes that's an excellent site ML , I didn't actually see it before I posted. I originally got my information from Whole Dog Magazine, they did a review of all the foods a few years back and said basically the same thing. Actually I have yet to find a food that meets all the criteria, I am currently using Nutro and although I'm not keen on the fact that rice appears three times in the first four ingredients my dogs are doing very well on it although I do feed other things and limit dry food to one cup per day. The only reason I mentioned Advance is that I use Advance Rehydratable for my puppies, it certainly doesn't look good on paper, but I've found it to be an excellent food for weaning puppies and for babies in their first few weeks of life. BTW the reason I won't use any product including citric acid is that it has been implicated as a causative factor in bloat, I don't think that they mention citric acid on that site, but although it's a natural preservative it's not completely safe in those breeds with a predisposition to the disease.

I look for foods that have meat as the first ingredient, not by-products but meat. If there is a second meat ingredient in the first four ingredients that's even better. I like to know where the fat is derived from eg. I like to see poultry fat instead of animal fats and I won't feed anything that includes tallow as a source of fat. I won't feed any food that has a cereal as the first ingredient and I won't feed anything that contains corn or soy. As far as preservatives go I won't feed anything that contains a chemical preservatives or citric acid. I also dislike Supercoat and only recommend Nutro, Eagle Pack Holistic, Royal Canin or maybe Advance.

Not a good idea I ignore dogs that jump up, I don't say anything and I don't touch the dog, I avoid even looking at the dog and then I walk away, if the dog's outside I go indoors. Train your dog to sit for attention, whenever he comes up to you, wants to play, wants to do anything in fact, make him sit first, if he starts to jump up or go over the top just totally ignore him and walk away. He'll soon get the idea. BTW I'm certainly no dog trainer, but it works for my dogs

Does it affect him at all, ie. can he run and jump around without discomfort? Does he do this at a trot or a walk or both? I would be interested in seeing his rear movement, it's hard to envisage based on your description. Any chance of a short video showing the dog moving away from the camera at a trot?

All the puppies I run on attend puppy pre-school two weeks after their first vaccination, I start taking them to shows at 3 months of age. I've never had a problem.

IMO it is extremely irresponsible to offer this sort of advice over the internet, lots of new dog owners read these forums and any of them could read this thread and decide to follow your advice. I personally know of a man who lost an eye doing exactly what you have recommended, the dog panicked, twisted around and bit the guy on the face and a canine tooth ripped into his eye. This sort of 'man handling' just isn't necessary, it's the sort of 'old school' training method that some trainers were recommending decades ago. It is an outmoded and extremely dangerous thing to do, in the same category as the 'alpha roll' and various other old-fashioned techniques. If you want to practice this sort of thing on your own dogs that's your business, but please don't encourage other dog owners to follow your, IMO very bad, example :D

Constant diarrhoea is also a sign of bacterial overgrowth. The vet should have prescribed or recommended an enzyme powder and should also have advised the dosage.