Miranda

I completely agree, just because a dog doesn't want to interact with other dogs doesn't mean that it's not socialised. Socialising a puppy means introducing it to everything that it's going to experience in life, strangers, kids, prams, lawn mowers, cars, buses, trains, umbrellas, vacuum cleaners, loud noises etc. it doesn't just mean getting it used to other dogs. As showdog pointed out how a dog interacts with strange dogs can also depend on breed, some are more aloof than others. Only one of my dogs will actually play and then only with some dogs not all, the rest are happy to have a sniff and go on their way, they have little interest in dogs that they don't know.

I live in Melbourne and haven't had a flea on my dogs for three years, if I did I would use Advantage. I can see no point in treating a dog with chemicals to control fleas when there aren't any.

I am a vegetarian who used to be vegan but I feed my dogs meat, I certainly wouldn't inflict my personal lifestyle choices on my dogs. Until someone breeds two vegan dogs together, feeds the bitch a vegan diet during pregnancy and whelping and while she is feeding the puppies and then successfully raises those puppies to adulthood on an exclusively vegan diet I will continue to state that a veganism is unsuitable for dogs. Sure you may be able to maintain a dog on a vegan diet, but I would want to see vegan dogs successfully bred for a couple of generations before I'd advocate a vegan diet for canines.

This is probably the best option, but I don't like the idea of a large breed puppy going up and down steps and you would also have to block the drop off at the side. You would also have to teach her to use the doggy door. Can you purchase a portable run and a kennel and put her in that during the day? It is always handy to have a way of confining your dog even when she's old enough to have free run of the entire yard. There is no way I'd be encouraging a lab puppy to soil inside the house, they grow very quickly and in a couple of weeks she will be producing good sized poos and lots of wee. Continue to take her out at night, expecting her to use newspaper at night, but go outside during the day will only confuse her.

Ditto.

This puppy sounds as if it is very dominant and IMO isn't suitable for an inexperienced first time dog owner. Not quite what you were asking and probably not what you want to hear, but I'm saying it anyway. You would be better off taking the 'average' pup. As for food a good quality dry food such as Eagle Pack, Royal Canin or Nutro plus some chicken carcasses, lamb flaps and brisket bones will be perfectly adequate.

Exactly! If dog owners are still giving annual vaccinations plus the Proheart injection and then flea/tick/worm treatments on a monthly basis that's one hell of a chemical overload IMO. If heartworm and ticks are endemic to your area then definitely use a preventative, but if they're not why do it?

It sound very strange to me, obviously your friend has omitted some pertinent details. Contact Dogs NSW and ask them to recommend a lawyer experienced in dog legislation.

I would have nothing further to do with this person

I use the Tuckertime rolls to mix with dry food if I go away as they're much easier to handle than fresh meat. I've found the rolls to be very good, however different dogs do well on different foods so if it's not suiting your friend's dog tell her to try something else. I didn't know there was a dry food so can't help you with that. Oops I've just read the title of your topic 'Another Dry Food Question and here I am prattling on about the rolls. Sorry.

I don't use any of the monthly products. I worm 2 or 3 times a year and treat the dogs with Advantage if they get fleas which is very rarely, I haven't had a flea on any of my dogs for 3 years. I only give Heartgard during the summer months. If you live in a tick free area with cold winters and your dog seldom if ever has fleas I can't see the point of giving a cocktail of chemicals every month to treat a problem the dog probably doesn't have. I would never, ever use the heartworm injection.

I was feeding the imported Nutro when it was pulled from the market and like you I tried Orijen and Artemis. The dogs did reasonably well on Orijen then I couldn't get that anymore so I switched to Artemis. Neither of the Artemis products agreed with my dogs and I got soft runny poo and lots of gas. I persevered with the product for 3 months, but then gave up on it as my two young boys were starting to lose weight and their coats weren't the best. I am now feeding the the Australian Nutro and although I'm not entirely happy with the ingredients my dogs do very well on it. Artemis appears to be a very good food and I would like to be able to feed it, but unfortunately it doesn't suit my dogs.

Your puppy is only a baby, I think you are expecting far too much of him. As for chew toys try giving him a brisket bone or a chicken wing if he's a small breed.

It looks like a wet dermatitis to me, possibly exacerbated by licking. I used to have a dog who had a tendency to develop this condition in winter when conditions were wet and the area between the pads was constantly moist. It is very important to keep the dog's feet as dry as possible and applying an astringent such as mercurochrome or gentian violet helps to dry out the area. If the dog keeps licking his pads use an elizabethan collar. It is interesting to note that some dogs seem particularly prone to this condition whereas others remain completely unaffected even though they live in the same environment and their feet get just as wet. ETA if you are not happy with your vet find another, when you have dogs it is very important to find a vet that you trust and with whom you have a rapport.

I would recommend that Jane purchase a male puppy from a reputable, experienced breeder who is prepared to help her, she should show the dog, title it if she can and only then think about looking for a bitch and obtaining a prefix. Although showing has its detractors it is one of the best ways to acquire a thorough grounding in your breed of choice. She needs to see as many representatives of the breed as possible, read about the breed's history, study the breed standard and learn how to interpret it. If she's interested in a working breed she should also endeavour to see the dogs carrying out the tasks for which they were originally bred. She needs to know what health problems exist and how to avoid them and this includes researching different bloodlines both past and present and understanding how and what they've contributed to the breed. She needs to learn about canine anatomy and behaviour, the canine reproductive system, about mating, gestation and whelping and postpartum care of the bitch and puppies. She needs to be present when a bitch is actually giving birth and learn what to do if any problems arise. If she wants to become an outstanding breeder who strives to produce healthy dogs that excel in conformation, type and temperament the best way to do it properly is to find a mentor and put in the years of time and effort required.

If you want the puppy to toilet outdoors don't confuse matters by introducing pads, by doing so you are actually teaching her that it's ok to soil inside. If the puppy is having accidents it's because you're not supervising her properly. If you can't watch her pop her in her crate and only allow free run of the house when you're able to keep an eye on her and put her outside when she needs to go. Put her outside after sleeping, eating and playing and about every hour in between and praise like mad when she goes. It takes time and patience, but you must be consistent because every time she goes inside is reinforcing the behaviour.

Excessive salivation can be caused by anxiety and/or excitement. I doubt that this bitch is feeling maternal towards these puppies, it is much more likely that she's reacting to having two strange dogs in her territory. I don't think the fact that she's entire is relevant at all. Bringing strange dogs into another's environment will certainly trigger stress in a lot of dogs, but it usually passes as the resident dog adapts to the new arrivals.

If this order is still going ahead I would like to order 1 x medium.

Extend the height of your fence with some good quality lattice then you won't have to worry. I just read that your fences are fibro, I've never seen a fibro fence so don't know if lattice would attach.

why? Yes why? I've never owned a rescue dog or a crossbreed and I never will, I'm a purebred dog snob and proud of it.

Yes you are correct. The corpus luteum produces progesterone and also inhibin, a hormone which sends a signal to the pituitary gland when it's time to decrease production of the follicular stimulating hormone and the luteal hormone eventually bringing an end to standing heat, the period during which a bitch will accept a male.

A lot of bitches become quieter after a season, it's caused by the release of the calming hormones produced during pregnancy. Even though she hasn't been mated her body still 'thinks' she's in whelp and is releasing the appropriate hormones. One of my bitches wasn't able to be shown following a season, she didn't even want to run round the ring. They usually return to normal after about 10 weeks.

Maybe she'd had the leg in a cramped position and cut off the blood flow, it can be painful for a short time until the circulation comes back. I wouldn't worry too much, maybe get a vet check if it happens again.

Twenty years ago I had a litter of 13 from a hastily improvised AI as the bitch was nearing the end of her fertile period and we couldn't get a natural mating. The dog was collected in a warmed wine glass and the semen introduced into the bitch using a syringe. We then held the bitch in a position where her rear end was higher than her front for about 10 minutes and voila, 13 puppies 63 days later. I don't recommend that you use such a crude method, but it just shows what's possible