tanstaff

Yeah i realise so but he is registered, like i have said. I was just curious as to how the council would seize a dog they deemed to be restricted, even if the dog was currently registered.

Let's be mindful of how we describe him as he can be problematic in some situations he is 100% controllable at home, alone. I have every intention of rectifying his behavioral problems and if i was to breed him it would be with people i know. I wish to breed him but i have no interest in doing so any time soon.

Also I walk him twice a day morning and afternoon and he pretty much goes wherever i go in the car including beach, park etc. We used to take long walks however it got hard when he started his pulling antics and it was pointless walking half an hour when all he was doing was having his negative behaviour reinforced. Now we walk shorter distances which will probably take up to if not more than half an hour when you include all the direction changing and stopping we do. It sort of balances out.

Ok i understand. The time he was confronted by a friends dog he was definitely submissive when the other dog showed aggression. This is a little confusing as i was scared he would retaliate. Nevertheless i definitely need some professional training, i think it is the best option at this stage. However i am currently between jobs and a full time student so it may have to wait a short time until i pick up some work. He is improving with the treat training at least. I will also look into desexing however i did want to breed him at some stage. Why do we desex dogs exactly is it to prevent disease down the track?

Thanks

Yes he is registered, has been from a pup. I don't see a problem with his registration renewal but what i was asking is more about refusing to allow your dog to be seized. I'm not sure about others but i could not allow my dog to be taken and murdered. I would rather the legal consequence over the guilt, but then again that is getting a little bit dark and far fetched. Vent over...

well i didnt think of that. what legal ramifications are there for not obliging to a dog being ceased?

it's only dogs at home. i know what people are probably thinking but no i am not that irresponsible. I never let him off the leash at the park or the beach when there are other dogs around. And if someone enters the park (usually without asking) i put him straight on the lead and take him home because he begins to focus on the dogs and i cannot control him. As for the age i have been told my many amstaff owners that desexing should be carried out around 2 years as full growth is achieved. Im not sure of the other opinions but i feel that he has a lot more to grow. the humping occurs when others bring their dogs to my home. some of you are right in saying that others get aggressive because they have been and the funny thing is it does not scare him he will sort of duck and weave until he pins them down. I'ts actually quite disturbing it seems like rape. When this has happened i try calling which does not work at which point i have to grab him by he collar and remove him. I will try to let him go but he is persistent at which point i tether him or lock him around the back. This is followed by very loud yelping and barking. We train every day when walking which wasn't doing much until i took some advice from the forum members. I am now using small treats to reward good behaviour. Our walks consist of probably 10 minutes to cross the road, 10 minutes to get to the park (2 min walk) and probably another 5 before he no longer pulls and is allowed in the park. Once he goes in the park i lose all control and he is on the lead and back home. It may sound bad but it is definitely working even though it is a slow process. I have yet to try the clicker, is a pen ok? and i will also try the look at me technique. Thanks for all the responses i really want for this to be a success. My first pup was stolen at 8 months so i have been a bit lost as to what i should do and i think my fear of losing another dog makes me a little bit harsher than what i should be. Nevertheless i am trying my best and appreciative of all the information i receive on this forum it is all very valuable to me.

How would i go about stopping my staff from trying to do unspeakable things to almost every other dog he comes across short of desexing (just yet). I don't want to be too literal but I'm assuming people will understand what i am asking. He becomes very hysterical and will not stop and certainly does not listen to a word i say. The only option is to lock him away at which point he will yelp loud enough to be heard half way down the street. I can't even take him with dog friends to run as he is only interested in one thing... He was associated with other dogs as a pup in obedience school however things have since changed as he has grown older.

He was registered as a pup and have already had the ranger come to inspect. Does this mean i am out of the water? Or not entirely....?

I think it is that she accepts that it meets the description of a PBT but she is uneasy euthanising it considering it is a well natured, loving dog. I would not be able to do something like that, even if i had to walk away from the industry. It is murder, no arguments.

by the way he is around 45cm

i think you are right, a lot of it may only be relevant to dogs used for show i.e pedigree, papers etc. I personally don't think he is directly crossed but there may be something there in breeding past. I was having a look at some pure bread ABT's and i was seeing some similarities especially in the snout... which may explain some of his boisterous behaviour. Does anyone have any information on the aforementioned bloodline -esrvrelspirit sir azlan? google yielded 2 results one of which was my own thread. Also as the breeders spelling was a bit shady could anyone clarify the dam for me? Bloodstrom Indigo was the spelling but i could not find any information and i am thinking it is wrong.. Thank you

Justice and I started obedience classes a few weeks ago for the first time and one that was made really clear right from the start is that the class is to show us what to do, ensure we have our timing right with using the bridging word or clicker and allow us to ask questions if we're unclear on anything. Then the following week we get our dog to demonstrate that they've learnt the new behaviour which can really only be done if we've put the time in to proofing it with different levels of distraction. It is unreasonable to expect most dogs to learn anything new in that sort of environment with lots of dogs and people and awesome things to sniff and pee on so our first step is to go home and teach the new behaviour in a place free from distractions, such as the lounge room with no other dogs or people present. Once your dog is doing it correctly 5 out of 5 times then you increase the distraction level. It might be changing rooms, bringing another person in etc.. and once they can continue to do the new behaviour consistently with that level of distraction you increase the distraction level again. This might be where you take them out to the back yard where there's cool toys and interesting things to do. Once you've proofed it there then you might try the local park when there are no other dogs around or with other dogs at a reasonable distance. Once that's proofed then work on it with other dogs closer to you until you are getting the behaviour reliably regardless of how much distraction there is. Dogs don't generalise like we do so if you teach your dog to sit in the lounge room your dog understands that "sit" means "sit in front of the coffee table" and needs you to teach him that "sit" also means "sit in the kitchen, sit in the back yard, sit on the footpath, sit at the dog park" etc.. Trying to move straight from a few repetitions with no distractions to an environment that is super exciting for a dog is just setting your dog up for failure. It doesn't take as long to teach all of this as it sounds either. Justice and I do 3 to 5 sessions a day of no more than one or two minutes each. If we're going off to the park or on a walk I use that as an opportunity to reinforce things he's already learnt at home but I don't ask him to do things I know he doesn't have down solidly in a low distraction environment yet, as it's frustrating for him if I'm asking him to do something and he doesn't understand what I want and then training is no longer fun for him where as right now, if I ask him if he wants to do training he gets really excited and enjoys the sessions. I am almost jealous hearing about your school. I wish mine was like that! Right from the start i am seeing terminology and advice/direction that i have not before and certainly did not hear whilst training. It may be hard to understand for those who did not experience it personally but my school definitely lacked this sort of depth; especially demonstrations and review. This is why we fell behind. That aside though you are definitely correct and i will take your advice.

That is very interesting stuff, i took him to a gated park today to let him off the lead and try some training techniques however i had a lot of trouble with distraction. It was loose lead walking the entire way to the park without any pulling or sniffing. Arrived at the gate, sit-stay proceeding to walk in about 20 meters before calling him in. He ran straight in after his ball which i had thrown but he did not stop, ignoring the ball and sniffing/eating grass. At this stage it was very hard to call him back as he would ignore me until i was right beside him. Why does he ignore me in this setting? He will not stop sniffing and eating the grass... odd.