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Everything posted by Roova
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For the cheapskates amongst us you can also use Bunnings compost panels. It's about $25 for four and they're brilliant. You can cable tie them any which way and create doors too. I put a tarp on my carpet and the pen on top just while toilet training. I found it handy to put my other dog in when training the pup too lol
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the 'smartest' dog breeds, according to a canine psychologist
Roova replied to Boronia's topic in In The News
I'd love to see more information about the 'study'. How many of each breed were tested, have they all been exposed to learning at the same rate, how much experience do the owners have in training etc. I've been shaping with my Border Terrier from eight weeks and she loves throwing new behaviours out and easily remembers what we've learnt previously. I would say she's instantly obedient 95% of the time. My Frenchie tries really hard if treats are involved but doesn't care for learning so much lol. -
Scary when you read it like that
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Perse great photo!! Sometimes I feel a little sorry for the sheep when I see their head back back on themselves like that. Obviously they bounce up and run away quickly when done so it can't be too bad. Denali, how happy are your guys!!! Their little faces look like they're beside themselves lol
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It sounds like a great initiative but if may be difficult to record healthy dogs if they don't go to the vet? I imagine it would have to be a national list to cover people moving around too? The problem is people can find recommended or ethical breeders now with a little research but there aren't enough puppies going around. I would love to see Health funds offering discounts for puppies from health tested parents. Currently they insure all puppies of certain breed the same regardless of back ground and those with healthier dogs are now suffering through premium hikes because of the constant claiming from poorly bred dogs. It would have to benefit the health fund to promote healthier dogs too you'd think.
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Should I Post South African trip photos?
Roova replied to Canisbellum's topic in Photos, Photos, Photos
Your voting should be Hell yes, not just yes. -
Hi Straube, This post hasn't been active since the end of 2009 so you may not get an answer
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I'm not sure actually. If they met away from the fence line I'd like to think they'd be friends but they do yell at each other at times lol
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Well my camera has decided to die so until I get it serviced or replaced (waaaah) I only have a few photo's to choose from. This is Poppy waiting and watching for the neighbours dog...
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Hmmm thats a tough one. How much socialisation and training is the Vet science student prepared to do for you? What is her experience with puppies, training and dog behaviour? If not the student then what is the breeder able to do or will her hands be full with her own dogs? Will either party be toileting pup outside through the night to continue toilet training if you're still working on it? The time when a puppy is young isn't just about feeding and play, it is also the time we need to spend a few minutes multiple times a day working on basic behavioural training and creating positive socialisation experiences. What happens to them now can set them up for their whole future and help create a well behaved adult. Training how to cope being alone to avoid separation anxiety, getting out and about to experience different sights and sounds, meeting different people and animals, basic house manners, toilet training, lead training, chew training, desensitisation to the lawn mower\vacuum \ blower, crate training, puppy kindy, capturing calm, the list can literally go on and on. Nearly two weeks can be a long time in the big scheme of things for a baby. Around the 12 week mark they can also start to become a lot less accepting of new things being introduced or may even enter their first fear period. If you're not ready and observant you might frighten them further. I know sometimes life gets in the way of plans and a holiday is a holiday so maybe ask each party if there is any training \ socialisation they can do for you while you're gone? Good luck with your new puppy and sorry to be a party pooper with your holiday!
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Your photo's tell a lovely story Grizabella. That's a great idea Tdierikx, how lovely to have a visual reminder of her for the keepers who probably loved her very much.
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Not so sure the government has anything to do with prices? I imagine its a combination of supply and demand, some breeders doing extra and charging more then others pick up on the price, and simply charging what people are prepared to pay. Just make sure you're giving your hard earned money to an ethical breeder ticking all the right boxes and your pup will be worth every cent.
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I really love certain new features but I did find the older layout easier to navigate. Given a choice between the two I think the positives outweigh the negatives so Im trying to focus on them
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I was in the same boat wanting a small, easy going short haired dog without full on terrier traits. Luckily this was six years ago so it was easier to find a great breeder who health tests, shows and is a great ambassador for the breed. She was so kind when I launched my thousand questions at her but she answered just the way I hoped and I couldn't be happier. I notice they are now the most popular pet dog in Britain as well! There's definitely a need for a small dog which can easily get out and about with their owner and not require a big yard. At the time I was breed searching (and I guess still now) it seemed there was a hole in the 'market' for dog breeds that were small but solid, short haired, sweet natured and not bred for any particular sport so there was no ingrained drive to contend with. If this criteria is what is making them so popular as a pet now and there's still nothing else similar, I can't see where this will end? Price wise I expect once the market becomes flooded it will drop but by then Im not even sure the breed will look like it's meant to any more! They're a great little dog though so I can definitely understand their popularity.
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About two raw food brands - Big Dog & Dr.B BARF
Roova replied to Kevin Chen's topic in Health / Nutrition / Grooming
Can you contact the company and ask for specifics? -
About two raw food brands - Big Dog & Dr.B BARF
Roova replied to Kevin Chen's topic in Health / Nutrition / Grooming
Great video, what a lucky dog and what a lovely family you have! -
If he's looking for things to 'do' he may need more mental exercise (if physical exercise is as a maximum). Do you do any trick training with him, or would you consider attending a good obedience school? Mental activity is as tiring as physical activity and easy to do any time you're home. Brittany's are active smart dogs so you may have to up the ante with the enrichment you're providing to keep him satisfied. Things to consider: feeding his daily food stuffed in kongs, take him to new locations for walks for different sights, sounds and smells, work on your obedience under different distraction levels, buy or make food challenges so he has to spend a bit of time getting his daily food, offer big meaty bones, kibble in an empty softdrink bottle, a kids wading pool full of balls with his kibble thrown in, a sand pit with toys\treats buried under the sand, his food hidden in various places inside so he has to find it all, scent games inside, put his food\treats\a toy in boxes and tape them up so he has to rip it apart. For simple things to keep his brain busy you might like this link: 101 things to do with a box Good luck!
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Yes, I think most states have them. The problem is there aren't enough good breeders to go around!
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About two raw food brands - Big Dog & Dr.B BARF
Roova replied to Kevin Chen's topic in Health / Nutrition / Grooming
I've heard of those brands and have used Big Dog Combo myself for years. I've offered most of the pre-made raw options out there but find Big Dog is eaten with gusto every time and it actually smells good which some of them don't. For Ingredients (below) and ease of use I'm really happy with it. Meaty bones for teeth and gums are fed on top and I dehydrate my own meats for treats. The only way to know for sure if any diet is working would be to have bloods done at the vet and see if the dog comes back as deficient anywhere. I haven't done this myself but have considered it a few times. So far I'm banking on the dogs visually looking in good condition with great skin, teeth and coats. Im sure your poodle will do great on this too! Beef, finely ground beef bone & cartilage, chicken, finely ground chicken bone & cartilage, beef & lamb heart, beef & lamb liver, beef & lamb kidney, whole fish (salmon & sardines), seasonal fruits, vege & herbs (kale, spinach, broccoli, bok choy, silver beet, carrots, celery, beetroot, lettuce, cucumber, capsicum, apple, orange, pear, tomato, strawberry, ginger & parsley), cold pressed ground flaxseed, whole egg, alfalfa powder, kelp powder (brown seaweed), brewers yeast, wheatgrass, live probiotics, prebiotics, garlic. -
Definitely slow and steady wins the race. You can also practice getting them used to the process \ water when you don't actually need to do any washing which saves you from getting stressed too. I had a kids wading pool with floating balls in my pups outside pen from maybe 10 weeks on. It was great for keeping her cool and getting her used to being wet. From eight weeks on I made sure to do one thing each week related to bathing so we went from standing in ankle deep water and treating\praising, to deeper water, to dribbling water over her, to getting completely wet, lathering motions, rinsing and then eventually the real thing. I probably went too slow but I figured there was no need to rush and now she couldn't care less. A few years on if its bath time, all I have to do is open the shower door and she'll walk straight in with the shower running and be happy to be washed lol. The only downfall with bathing her inside is after I've dried her she runs absolutely mental though the house, rubbing on the walls, falling over on the tiles and jumping on the other dog.
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I love that bit of puppy belly poking above his legs in the bottom shot. I could just smoosh it!!
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Im on a Brisbane Frenchie facebook page has grown to 2,210 members from a small group five years ago! This one at least has some very sensible members but there are others where the sole purpose seem to be to sell puppies and promote colours. Most people from one have been kicked off the other! On the Brisbane page there are Frenchies with tongues hanging our, long bodies, long tails, ears at odd angles, the works. Its a shame because people want a Frenchie and they don't want to wait years for a decent breeder to have another litter. The worst thing is people buy a pup knowing they'll have to come up with more money to have to have nostrils widened and soft palette done!
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Recall Plan and Recall Lead length - Queries
Roova replied to Isabel964's topic in Training / Obedience / Dog Sports
There's probably quite a few different ways to approach recall but I was reading an article this morning which is simple and straight forward. Its super long but hopefully there's soome snippets in here you might like? (It's from Volhard.com). Rule #1: Exercise, exercise, exercise. Many dogs do not come when called because they do not get enough exercise. At every chance, they run off and make the most of it by staying out for hours at a time. Consider what your dog was bred to do and that will tell you how much exercise he needs. Just putting him out in the backyard will not do. You will have to participate. Think of it this way, exercise is as good for you as it is for your dog. Rule #2: Whenever your dog comes to you, be nice to him. One of the quickest ways to teach your dog not to come to you is to call him to punish him or do something the dog perceives as unpleasant. Most dogs consider being given a bath or a pill unpleasant. When he needs either, go and get him instead of calling him to you. Another example of teaching your dog not to come is to take him for a run in the park and call him to you when it's time to go home. Repeating this sequence several times, teaches the dog "the party is over!" Soon, he may become reluctant to return to you when called because he is not ready to end the fun. You can prevent this kind of unintentional training by calling him to you several times during his outing, sometimes giving him a treat, sometimes just a pat on the head. Then let him romp again. Rule #3: Teach him to come when called as soon as you get him, no matter how young he is. Ideally, you acquired your dog as a puppy and that is the best time to teach him to come when called. Start right away. But remember, sometime between the 4th and 8th months of age, your puppy will begin to realize there is a big, wide world out there. While he is going through this stage, it is best to keep him on leash so that he does not learn he can ignore you when you call him. Rule #4: When in doubt, keep him on leash. Learn to anticipate when your dog is likely not to come. You may be tempting fate trying to call him once he has spotted a cat, another dog, or a jogger. Of course, there will be times when you goof and let him go just as another dog appears out of nowhere. Resist the urge to make a complete fool of yourself by bellowing "come" a million times. The more often you holler "come," the quicker he learns he can ignore you when he is off leash.Instead, turn your back to him and calmly walk away. When he catches up to you, give him a treat as you put your left hand under his chin, palm facing up, through his collar and then put him on leash. Do not get angry with him once you have caught him or you will make him afraid of you and he will run away from you when you try to catch him the next time. Rule #5: Make sure your dog always comes to you and lets you touch his collar before you reward him with a treat or praise. Touching his collar prevents the dog from developing the annoying habit of playing "catch" - coming towards you and then dancing around you, just out of reach. The Game of Coming When Called Needed: two people, one hungry dog, one six foot leash and plenty of small treats. Step 1: inside the house, with your dog on a six-foot leash, you and your partner sit on the floor or ground, six feet apart, facing each other. Your partner gently hangs on to the dog, you hold the end of the leash. Call your dog by saying "name, come," and use the leash to guide him to you. Put your hand through his collar, give him a treat, pet and praise him enthusiastically. Now you hold the dog and pass the leash to your partner who says "name..come," guides the dog in, puts his hand through the collar, gives him a treat, and praises the dog. Goal: repeat until your dog responds to being called on his own and no longer needs to be guided in with leash. Step 2: repeat Step 1 with your dog off leash. Goal: gradually increase distance between you and your partner to 12 feet. Step 3: have your partner hold your dog (off leash) while you hide from him (go into another room), then call your dog. When he finds you, put your hand through the collar, give him a treat, and praise him. If he can't find you, go to him, take him by the collar and bring him to the spot where you called. Reward and praise. Now have your partner hide and then call him. Goal: Repeat until the dog doesn't hesitate in finding you or your partner in any room of the house. Going Outside Take your dog outside to a confined area, such as a fenced yard, tennis court, park or schoolyard and repeat Steps 1, 2 and 3. You are now ready to practice by yourself. Let your dog loose in a confined area and ignore him. When he is not paying any attention to you, call him. When he gets to you, give him a treat and make a big fuss over him. If he does not come, go to him, take him by his collar and bring him to the spot where you called him where you then reward and praise him. Repeat until he comes to you every time you call him. Once your dog is trained, you don't have to reward him with a treat every time, but do so frequently. Adding Distractions Some dogs will need to be trained to come in the face of distractions such as other dogs, children, joggers, food, or friendly strangers. Think about the the most irresistible situations for your dog and then practice under those circumstances. On Leash Step 1: Put a 12' leash on your dog (this can be two six' leashes tied together) and take him to an area where he is likely to encounter his favorite distraction. Once he spots it (jogger, bicycle, other dog, whatever), let him become thoroughly engrossed, either by watching or straining at his leash, and give the command "name, come." More than likely, he will ignore you. Give a sharp tug on the leash and guide him back to you. Praise and pet him enthusiastically. Goal: Repeat 3 times per session until the dog turns and comes to you immediately when you call. If he does not, you may have to change your training equipment. (See, Chapter 9, Alternatives.) Note: Some dogs quickly learn to avoid the distraction by staying close to you, which is fine. Tell him what a clever fellow he is and then try with a different distraction at another time. Step 2: Repeat Step 1 in different locations with as many different distractions as you can find. Try it with someone offering your dog a tidbit as a distraction (the dog is not to get the treat)ÂÂ, someone petting the dog and anything else that may distract him. Use your imagination. Goal: A dog that comes immediately when called even when distracted. Off Leash Distractions How you approach this part of the training will depend on your individual circumstances. Here is an example. Take your dog to an area where you are not likely to encounter distractions in the form of other dogs or people. Let him off leash and become involved in a smell in the grass or a tree. Keep the distance between you and him about 10'. Call him to you. If he responds, praise him enthusiastically. If not, avoid the temptation to call him again. Don't worry, he heard you, but chose to ignore you. Instead, slowly walk up behind him, firmly take him by his collar, under his chin, palm up, and trot backwards to the spot where you called him. Then praise him. Once he is reliable at this point, try him in an area with other distractions. If he does not respond, practice for the correct response with the 12' leash before you try him off leash again. Can you now trust him to come to you in an unconfined area? That will depend on how well you have done your homework and what your dog may encounter in the "real" world. Understanding your dog and what interests him will help you know when he is likely not to respond to being called. Let common sense be your guide. For example, when you are traveling and have to let him out to relieve himself at a busy interstate rest stop, it would be foolhardy to let him run loose. Remember Rule #4: when in doubt, keep him on leash. Summary 1) If your dog does not come when called, you don't have a dog. 2) Whenever your dog comes to you, be nice to him. 3) When in doubt, keep him on leash. 4) Always touch his collar after he has come to you and before you reward him. 5) Teach him to come when called now. 6) "Come" is one of the most important commands you will teach your dog. -
Lots of people out there with money to burn but no time to research responsible breeders I think. I noticed 'exotic' blue Frenchie puppies on Gumtree this morning for $15,000!! The advertisement had nothing noted about health testing, said Molecular full DNA profiles provided and limited or mains registered. It said price non negotiable so don't even ask. How did this even happen?
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I've been working a lot so this is just one from around home. Frangipani's are one of my favorites trees