JoeK

you're making a big assumption here too that a dog left after 5 months with it's testicles in is going to pretty much guarentee a dog that you cannot take anywhere. Training and socialisation as well as genetic temperament are going to have a bigger impact in the long run. Desexing wont stop him bowling the kids over, pinching their toys or pulling their pants but training will. You also need to socialise him properly as that again will have a bigger impact on his long term behaviour, testosterone or not. I would be listening to your breeder before your vet. As for 'male behaviours' I have a pair of bitches that scratch grass, cock their leg, will hump other dogs and act like dominant cows if allowed ... obviously not an over testosterone problem Cancer risk, your vet probably meant prostate not testicular cancer. If you want the dog desexed to prevent accidents or in the case a neighbour around you decides keeping an entire bitch in their backyard (in which case you will be privy to all manner of carrying on from an entire dog) then go for it, but I would follow your breeders advice at the least. Personally I would wait until 12 months and over. As for entire dogs and kids not working together ... and I dont have kids of my own at all Is fine gentleman the big Dougie, very nice, I like him! Joe

Most of this testosterone scare of the bad behavior is bull, is old wifes tale for the most and way out beyond the proportion. Sure the male might sniffing more to cock his leg on the walking, but he shouldnt be allowed to sniff and cocking on the walk unless you tell him he can. This is training problem not becuase his clackers are still on. I can picking form the country kilometer a male Shepherd Dog desexing too early his fat in the chest, more deepness with a skinny leg is looking stupid, after 18 months on the Shepherd Dog is no worries, but if hes good dog and the good training, his clackers leave them on, making no difference. But if he is timid dog like on the posting here, I leave them on, if is timid taking off his clacker too early can cause him scaredy cat behavior is painful when the dog is scared of everything and backing out the collar, he scared of dogs, cars in the trafffic is no good, better if he want to bite someone to fixing that than scaredy cat, so my opinion on the posting for this pup is leave him on for I preference 18 months on the big dog but 6 months is bull. Joe

I'd keep moving, or keep him occupied. There is an old article by Bob Bailey somewhere that discusses this, Bob suggests putting the dogs away when they aren't working and that's what I do in my classes. The dogs are either working or in the car. As they mature and learn the norms of going to class, they are then able to stand around a bit more doing "nothing". It takes a bit of time though. Long as he isnt working Malinois he work in the car on is own on the interior tear up the seats! Joe

Yes, this is true. If you wanting a dog to ignor other dogs, you dont socialise them with other dogs other than letting your dog see them no playing. Same for the people, if wanting dog not to find value in other people, dont letting people pat your dog or play with them is how is working Joe

I thought that training was the most effective way to sort this problem... ie if the training had been good to start with and the handler hadn't skipped steps... they wouldn't be in this situation. Note - that doesn't apply to brain damaged dogs - but a prong collar isn't going to help those to loose lead walking either. Yes, this is true. If you training properly from puppy, you tie him on his neck with a peice of string and by 4 months old you not needing collar at all, but when the dog is mistrained and he get bad behavior, the prong is best collar and nicer on the dog than the checking chain and actually the checking chain can causing far more injury to the dog than the prong if used wrong too. Joe

Why is your answer no? Is it somehow impossible to use a clicker to teach a dog to switch between 'drives', or to respond to cues with a high degree of reliability? A lot of people are using it for just that. Control doesn't come from the willingness to use corrections. It comes from sound conditioning and clear cues. You can do that just as well with a clicker as you can with anything else. The OP has already ruled out punishments. Sounds to me like they know when to apply the carrot and when to apply the stick. Just because they have made a different decision than you might have does not mean they don't know. I have a dog I would NEVER punish. He is just too gentle. He is not confident about offering behaviours in the first place, so if I punish him I'm only going to hurt my ability to train new behaviours. Plus it's just not needed. He has a beautiful fast extinction curve and I've never seen anything spontaneously recover. Oh, except trying to convince us he's sleeping on the bed tonight. To ban on the Schutzhund call him attack train is stupid pffffff, I laughing on that, but for Tom and Dick to train protection dog is should be banning for the Government is very danger if the training wrong. One factoring on the fighting drive defense drive on the switch is redirected aggression where dog is propeller wound up so tight he loosing focus on the target and he just wanting to have a biting. Clear head in the dog is genetic on full propeller, most dog dont having clarity on his head in the mind state he is working, so we use correction in the training to teach the dog and for using like a handbrake if he get it wrong to stop the biting physically if he loose is banana. Becuase is hard to get a perfect dog, he should have clarity on his head and he shouldnt do his banana, but he can and he does, so the training needing to accomodating for this is where the clicker cant doing the job like correction from the collar. Joe

No. But thanks for the lesson in working dogs, I look forward to seeing your performance in the working arena some day. Have you got any videos of good working dogs you could share that would illustrate your points? Probably little bit off the path in the talk on the thread my apology, is good chat Adian2 thanking you. I buy a book today on the clicker and try some concept on my wife Labrador we see was happenning, yes? Joe

Aidan 2 please, I teach you about the protection dog briefly, yes. The dog that wants to fight for the thrill is called social aggression and you finding this in the working dog males only and some of the Bull Terrier is a trait probably in this country finding 10 German Shepherd Dog with true social aggression if we are lucky is rare trait these days is true. But what we do on the protection dog is training fighting drive in the dog, that is not rare and would be lucky to find police Shepherd Dog or good security guarding dog not trained in fighting drive. Sharpness and civil aggression is fear based reactivity is different and working in defensive drive, fighting drive extends on prey drive and is fun for the dog to go fighting is trained response. In the fighting drive, the cowboy he training this with no obedience to the dog is danger becuase the dog wanting to fight everyone and the handler cant stop im easy becuase lacking obedience training. Obedience is most for the inportance on the dog trained in fighting drive. You cant tellimg protection dog look at that becuase he starting wind up is propeller to take him down, when he look at that, you tell NO and give im a correction to pull his head in you don't need fighting the dear old lady is bad, see? I understand in the clicker training people the aiming is to kill the aggression in the dog as unwanted behavior and make it go away for ever is fair enough in the method, but what we do is we switching the aggression on and off for the job so we needing to make him kill someone in the fight then lick the little girl in the face and be nice dog like a pet, so this type of training cant be done all on the clicker is not possible and to switch him off on aggression and fighting drive you cant avoiding correction and power over dog from the handler to make him nice dog when you need him nice is the lesson these dog must learn the rules on the game. The dog begin the fight on deploy in the fighting drive and bad guy he start kicking and fighting the dog. At some point the dog will switch into defence drive in the fear under pressure of loosing the fight and we still have to control him on that state of his mind. At this stage, is no different than the pet dog reacting in fear on the leash is the same mind set on the dogs, see? So control in the defensive mind setting on the training is the same. The point is, can you control the pet dog in the defence with clicker yes of course is good. Can you control the protection dog in the defence drive on the clicker and the answer is no. That is telling me that the clicking method is lacking on the crunch of aggression in the behavior modification and is the reason why I don't using these clicking methods to fixing aggression in the dog, yes? My opinion if the method on the training cant work on the top of extreme, is limited in the effectiveness is my thinking. I have very much of the respect in some of the modern training is very cleaver and is far better than what William Koehler mastered from the old schooling, no question from me, but some getting too stupid to avoid a correction on the dog to the other extreme of William, he had some stupid ideas on the extreme and so have the clicker trainers on some things too for my opinion. My believing is a bit of carrot and bit of stick is good and the best trainers are the ones who know when to apply the carrot and when to apply the stick from reading the dog getting the best results. All stick or all carrot doesnt achieve the best dog in the training for my thinking. Joe

Sometimes you needing to being careful with the prong on some dogs and for the Ecollar becuase is escaluting aggression and acting as agigation collar making the angry. Probably not finding this often, but I using this slipping collar here if the dog gets cranky on the prong becuase the slipping collar taking driva away when the prong can lift the drive up. Joe

I buy the Ford Falcon wagon is BF Mark 2 2007 and I put the grill behind the back seat for the dog. The Falcon is bigger in the back than the Holden, I measure both and the Falcon having more power on the foot too. The Falcon is very old reliable leaf spring in the back is good for towing like the truck. I have a look at the Ford Territory but is smaller in the back and they tell me is bad on the petrol for cost. The Falcon is nice wagon, Holden looking a bit better to the eye, but the Falcon is couple of advantage is bigger, more power and the leaf spring for tow I liking? Joe

Ahhh, see this is the problem with the training I seeing here why it goes wrong. It doesnt matter if protection dog or little pet dog becuase the reactivity stemming from the similar place in the dogs head is just that the ferocios of the reacting is different. You putting the same ferocious of the little dog on a big strong body and big set of choppers is very violent nasty dog, so the training principal to fixing this is the same for the little dog or the big dog, makes no difference a dog is a dog. If the training principal is working for the big strong dog, it working the same on the little dog is just that the application is reduced to suiting dog size, but principal remaining the same. What I saying is many people often telling me, Joe my Shepherd Dog is pet not police dog so we shouldnt doing police dog obedience, but regardless, is still Shepherd dog with bad behavior so the method used for police dog training to controlling and good obedience working just the same on the pet dog is no different, yes? Joe

This is a straw man argument but I'll play along. Why were you sneaking out of your room to go kiss girls? Did your dad want you to stay away from girls completely? If this is so, did you not find another way to avoid getting caught? How did you feel about your dad giving you the strap to prevent you having any relationships with anyone else? I using this reference for the recognition of bad behavior which often with the dog, the trainer not teaching this for the dog to learn what is acceptable and what is not and instead he lure the dog around the problem like if reacting, he will take the treat and do the focusing heel past the other dog and is working and then he say he fix the dog reacting from the heeling. What he done is take the dogs focus away from other dog onto him the handler to stop the dog reacting, but the dog still don't understand reacting is bad, so when he doesnt heel the dog past another dog he will still reacting and lunging because he dont know better. My training what I do is correct the bad behavior and reward the good and is what most of the trainers in the Schutzhund, police and protection dogs is proving over the many years is best working. There has been a few who try to train all on the carrot with no stick, but I have never seen any good from these dogs training and unless we proving with this dogs that all carrot and no stick providing better dog with more reliable, there is no point from the exercise to do this, yes? I am saying if the dog is good reliable working dog trained with carrot and the stick and he does everything right, what improvement needing to say that without the stick he would be better working, better at what part of the working I have asking this question before and they say hes good dog but suffering too many corrections in the training is bad. I asking of them, what effecting in his performance had the corrections, what do you see has damaged his performance from the corrections, and they cant tell me that, but they still tell me the dog was trained wrong, but how is wrong when the dog complete faultless performance and win the trial is not making sense to me? Joe

Thank you both for your advice This isn't a head collar but a gentle leader harness. I have never been to a positive only based club before and I am conflicted. I do think a lot of what is said makes sense such as working her at a distance and sub threshold but then I think surely a well timed correction could potentially sort this mess out too. The trainer did suggest I might consider a beviourist but then again that would just be one persons opinion too. Grrrr I am lost. All I know is that this problem has been getting worse - even before I tried the no corrections. Yes, is good idea from Nekhbet to speaking with the Schutzhund club becuase they can put you to contact with good trainers whos knowing the problem well and used to the Shepherd temperament can help much better than general dog club. What makes the Shepherd Dog worse in lunging and barking is whos they bark at backing off which give the Shepherd confidence they are winning the argument. The trainer if understanding civil drive can fix this dog behavior no problems and is common behavior in working dogs is not perfect, but some very good dogs are like this without the proper training. In the dog club this behavior is not understand and making the handler uncomfortable with reactive dogs and making bad atmosphere making handler feel is all their fault is wrong. Reactive dogs has genetic basis in the Shepherd and much easier to learn when trainer is understanding of the problem and how is fixed. Joe

^which tells me you know as much about clicker training as I know about restoring classic chevys It's not just working dogs who bite people and other dogs. Dogs with bite histories are part and parcel of the business, JoeK. I'd have a lot of trouble paying my insurance premiums if this was an issue. Tell me how you address handler aggression with a clicker is good example?. Is true story someone did this behavior modify with the positives until the dog bit his face and took off half his ear and he realising up is sleeve is still there. Handler aggression I promising is only way this is fixed for the dog to fear conflict with the handler he loose. In the 80s we have several Czech line working Shepherd Dogs very handler aggression badly I working with these dogs fixing them, but this cant be done in my learning without compulsion because is unpredictable, one moement the dog is fine, then he turn up the leash suddenly with no option than restrain on the dog to beginning the dogs learning. Joe

But how do you know that he isn't keeping "reacting up his sleeve" just because you punished him? I can understand using punishment to quickly suppress something dangerous and then start working on building a different emotional response to something the dog has been reacting to, but I cannot understand this claim that punished dogs don't keep "reacting up [their] sleeve" and dogs who have undergone behaviour modification with positive reinforcement and classical conditioning do. Hundreds upon hundreds of experiments have shown us that nothing is 100% reliable, given enough trials, and none of them would support the claim that punishment is better than positive reinforcement as a behaviour modification technique - in fact, the opposite is frequently suggested. My GSD was accosted by two bouncing labradors yesterday, one of them an adolescent. Do you know what she did when teen-punk came bouncing into her face like an idiot? Exactly what any normal, healthy, "strong-nerved" dog should do, gave him a little bit of a telling off and backed off of her own accord when teen-punk gave the appropriate signals. Except that at one stage she wasn't a normal, healthy, "strong-nerved" dog. She was sharp, aggressive and teen-punk wouldn't have made it that far. I don't know that if I tied her to a fence and let teen-punk at it that she wouldn't eviscerate him, and I don't intend to find out. I think my "world's friendliest" Golden boy would take issue with teen-punk if he were tied to a fence. But I do know that my girl can now communicate like a normal dog without having to suppress anything for fear of correction, and without needing me to tell her anything or distract her with food or whatever people imagine we might do. When I was 13 years old, I climbing out my window at night to meet a girl for kissing is beautiful yes, and one night my father he catch me and give me the strap for climbing from the window and he set the boundary and the consequence. He could have ignored me climbing and give me something better to do in my room than kissing nice girl and maybe I stop climbing out the window so he think the problem fixed. But when the urge for kissing girl is strong enough, I still climb out becuase there is no consequence for doing so and I dont knowing any better because he didnt address the climbing and only offered another behavior to stay in my room. Same on the dog? Joe

Many people use the prong for managing the dog and is working well when is on his neck, but the prong to stop him collar aware is to train him with the prong for the tool is different. Is the idea is the same as flat collar exept you have the added power in the prong to give softer correction for a better effect. Is not for letting the dog go to the ending of the leash and is good becuase he dosnt pull as hard because it teach him collar aware, you have to teach him not to pull using the prong as punishment for the misbehave so he learn the loose leash is nicer. Joe

Greetings Bianca.a You needing a trainer who understands the Shepherd Dog and your new trainer I am thinking is beyond their depth with this behavior. The prong can elevating drive on the dog if the correction is not following from ignoring command, but the dog she needing in my opinion a slipping collar to take drive away from the dog to make her settling. Is easy to fix this problem if the trainer know what is doing and head collars on this problem is no good. No body experienced with training a working dog using head collars, could be just taking your money and guessing how to fixing your dog sound like to me? Joe

I don't know that you've really answered my question though, JoeK. Why are you assuming that the dog, correctly conditioned, with clicker training does not know the ruling of what he does? Why is this so? I can understand healthy skepticism. If you've not seen it yourself, why should you believe anyone who says otherwise? I wouldn't. The burden of proof is upon those who make the claim. But you seem to have a concrete reason, not just disbelief, but a belief in some other principle that dictates the necessity of compulsion. This is what I'm interested in, where does this come from? Or am I wrong, and you are simply skeptical? Is very difficult to train a working dog in bitework developing the fighting drive in the dog without compulsion usless you happy to get bitten a few times or the dog biting someone else is what happens when the dog learns no consequence on the rules. Probably can be done with the clicker in the end, but depending in how many bites you can handle until the dog learning the rules properly? Facing a dog wanting the throat instead of the sleeve with the handler teaching no consequence on the dog is scary for me is not nice feeling on the decoy. Joe

Why "must" and "bad"? Is there a reason? Or is this a personal opinion? (Ich bin schwierigkeiten verständnis dieser absatz. Vielleicht können wir diese diskussion fortsetzen mit einer ziege in Deutsch? или на русском языке, где многое lolz будет? ;) ) Vielleicht werden sie geärgert, Deutsch auf dem Ausschuss sprechend Aidan2 When handling and train the dog in my experiences with the working dog is high in social aggression which I have working on many years, is dangerous dog when he out of control because he biting people in active aggression and very strong dog to hold im back, so we cant have situation where the dog he doesnt know the ruling of what he does you see?. The reactive pet is the same in the principal, maybe not having the civil nerving to actually bite and attack as the working dog, but he respond to the same training. Some people saying to me Joe, my dog just have a lunge and bark and is not attacking to bite so we don't needing to apply the training of a dangerous dog, but is the same thing just is not as severity or danger, but the training to stop this reacting working the same because the cause of reaction is the same from the working dog and the pet dog. Becuase the pet dog probably wont bite in my opinion, he still must learn the rule that aggression is bad and he don't do this behavior is not acceptable. Joe What if the cause of the reaction is NOT the same? My girl does not have good nerves and I am fairly sure her aggression is based on fear. She has high drives but not a very stable temperament. She taught me a lot about what I DON'T want in a performance dog as well as what I do want. Is good questioning Kavik thanking you. You can see often the breeder claiming the working dog he breed has sharpness and civil aggression and he say he breed tough dogs of strong nerve. Sharpness is fear and civil aggression is the dog has the drive to get in first before something get him and when you training this dog to win he become confident protection dog easy, but he is hard to handle and needing to learn the rules of the game. Nerve in the dog is the resistance to shutting down from bad experience so a dog of weak nerve if he fight and someone kick im hard he goes into water and run away, loose is nerve to fight is way of explaining the nerve of the dog, but weak nerve can also cause sharpness which is how fast a dog reacting aggressively to a situation. Weak nerve dog can snap at a child for stepping in his tail, hard nerve dog needing severe pain to react for comparison. Dogs that getting snappy and growl if you touch his feet or tail is weak nerve in the dog. Strong nerve dog doesnt care or react and doesnt shut down easy from bad experience and recover fast. Is easy testing the nerve of the dog to see how fast he take a treat and eat after hes winding up is what I testing for the nerve. Mostly in the reactivity is fear on most dogs is true and many ways can be overcome the fear to settle down, but is my opinion the dog must learning that reacting is no good and not fixing his problem and the nerve on the dog is what I determine for the best method to train. If the dog has good recovery on the nerve, I use corrections on the dog, if is poor or shutting down, I using gradual pressure with a prong or slipping collar and reward, but always teaching him that reaction is not acceptable, but if the dog is not learning the reacting is bad, hes always keeps reacting up his sleeve and when he has reacting up his sleeve, he will react at the wrong time one day could be bad outcome. So, I like better that the dog loosing reacting from the sleeve for nicer dog and more better for the trustworthy. Joe

My wife Labrador always a bit soft on the bum for 2 years from pup never nice in the poop. We test him at the vets a few times, we try the diffrent food but nothing is good for him to fixing the poop. We feed him the rice mince and vegetable home cooked meal we feed for many years on all our dogs no problems, but what happens is a girl on the vets we talk about the Shepherd Dog and she had this problem with her Shepherd and she tell us she feeding the Royal Canin in the morning with 2 big scoops of plain yoghut and give him home ccoking at night with the 2 smaller meals. We try this with the Royal Canin Labrador in the morning on the 2 scoops and is home cooking at night for dinner and within 3 day his pooping improving unbelievable! Hes been over year now with this feeding and is pooping is beautiful and every time I walking him the bugger poops and I having to pick it up but nice firm and brown. Before is always yellow pudding causing worry why is happening. Joe

Why "must" and "bad"? Is there a reason? Or is this a personal opinion? (Ich bin schwierigkeiten verständnis dieser absatz. Vielleicht können wir diese diskussion fortsetzen mit einer ziege in Deutsch? или на русском языке, где многое lolz будет? ;) ) Vielleicht werden sie geärgert, Deutsch auf dem Ausschuss sprechend Aidan2 When handling and train the dog in my experiences with the working dog is high in social aggression which I have working on many years, is dangerous dog when he out of control because he biting people in active aggression and very strong dog to hold im back, so we cant have situation where the dog he doesnt know the ruling of what he does you see?. The reactive pet is the same in the principal, maybe not having the civil nerving to actually bite and attack as the working dog, but he respond to the same training. Some people saying to me Joe, my dog just have a lunge and bark and is not attacking to bite so we don't needing to apply the training of a dangerous dog, but is the same thing just is not as severity or danger, but the training to stop this reacting working the same because the cause of reaction is the same from the working dog and the pet dog. Becuase the pet dog probably wont bite in my opinion, he still must learn the rule that aggression is bad and he don't do this behavior is not acceptable. Joe

But the dog is focusing on the other dog - that is the whole point of LAT. I'll explain the clicker for you - it provides a bridge between response and reinforcer. So the dog looks at the other dog without reacting, the handler clicks the clicker to reinforce looking at the other dog without reacting, then because the click promises a reward, the dog looks back to the handler. What you get more of is the dog looking at the other dog without barking. Not "looking at the handler" That's just what happens after you click, it isn't what makes you click. Tell me, if you were going to teach this with corrections, exactly what would you be teaching the dog? Don't say "to not bark" or "to not desire to react" because I want to know what you are teaching the dog to do. When they started putting rats in electrified cages to investigate what happens with punishment, some bright spark noticed that the rats didn't cease to exist when they were punished so the question was raised "what are they doing instead of behaviour X?" It turns out they were doing a whole lot of "freezing" which is their "spezies spezifisch sicherheit reaction". This was what happened when they were shocked, and then the shock got turned off, so that's what they did instead of behaviour X. Of course, dog trainers would never do that, right? It would look ugly if we had dogs cringing and flinching, so we're a little bit more sophisticated. But do you get what I'm asking? What is the dog doing if he isn't reacting? Well I asked you about the dog's body language and you've not responded to that, so I'm wondering what you "aren't seeing" that makes you think the "wunsch für aggression" is still there? If he isn't reacting, why do you think he "desires to react"? Is it his body zunge? If it's body language, please be specific, what are you seeing? Firstly the the dog needs the basic leash manners to begin without distracting from another dog, I am meaning the dog can walk nicely along side, loose leash no pulling and sniffing and the dog will stop and sit on command is what I do first. Until the dog display this properly behavior reliable, hes not ready for the distraction. What happening is many peoples dog doesnt walk nicely to begin and they throw in the deepen end with distraction before basics establishment is done. Is no good becuase basics controlling on the leash is not in the dog and they expecting too much in the distraction. If the dog cannot be walking nicely without distraction, there is no chance the handler can control when the big distraction arising, yes?. My dogs I training all done on the leash and have learned the leash control from the beginning so if I have reactive dog who misbehaves seeing another dog the first time he does this is NO and little pull up on the leash and when he behave to my command NO, is good boy and give him a rub is what I do. If you training a dog with developed behavior and is poor, it may be different process depending, but from beginning of the training it goes like this and the dog he learn to listen to me and NO command is wrong behavior for him. The dog he learn from correction to trust is handler that command NO for his benefit to avoid correction and by obeying the handler save him is how it works on the dog. I cant speak on the rats I am not training rats but dogs which matters most, yes. I am telling the biggest falling out from the dog I see is not from correction for disobey, is from obeying command and suffering, like to command jump and the dog he stuffs it up and hurt himself, he then don't trust you what you commanding is good for him. He got to know that whatever you command is good and NO is bad and he understanding of the rules. The clicker and treating is good for the timid dog to gaining confidence, but the reactive with confidence to front the demon in aggression my opinion must be suppressing clearly to the dog this behavior is not happening and is bad. Both reacting from fear, one run, one attack but is no good to applying methods for the runner on the dog in defence drive is different thing. It depends what the dog does in fear and if reacting, the reacting has to cause the dog never to win, he must loose always for random reaction. Joe

I tell a brief story in 30 years of training the German Shepherd Dog in Schutzhund and protection, rarely a dog short on pigment in the face has healthy level of active aggression. Is myth yes, but always seems active aggression is more in the darker faced show dogs for some reason?. In Europe there is many breedings of the guarding Shepherd Dog of over sharpness from working lines of the dark face and color where people learn the nice show dog color is probably some bluff in the bark but to watch out for the dark Shepherd Dog who means business bred for being nasty dog. Joe

The owner is happy, the dog is calm. If she had any competitive goals she would be able to start. If she just wanted to be able to walk her dog down the street, she can do that. Well I'm sure you've seen plenty of dogs trained with food compete without food so I'm not sure what your point is? Probably not explaining myself well, my apology please. I speak on the goal with reactivity in the dog that at some stage he must do the traffic testing which means he must behaving with handler hiding from is view, yes? Now, if the basic of the training relay on the dog focus to the handler is a problem when the handler hide a way for the testing because the dog has no handler to his focusing, so we train reactivity out a different way so the dog learn reaction is bad, not so he learn to focus to the handler when he feel like reaction because what happens in the traffic testing with this dogs training to focus to handler is they fail testing and bouncing and barking like the pork chop again when the handler hiding, so it didnt fixing the dog to the actual reactivity and only providing alternating behavior. Is like the focus exercising to the handler masking over the problem for easy handling and yes for nicer walking past the dog I understand, but is not fixing the desire for reaction I am not seeing that. Joe

Yes, thank you, I understand your situation, is good then to have improvement. Is differently on my background where we must cure the reactivity without handler present I am familiar and the focus exercising I am working out if is best way to cure dog for himself or best way to making the dog easier to handle him for the handler. Joe